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Getting into muzzle loading


Dom
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Hi everyone I myself will be starting to muzzle load hunting,this comming season.I will be purchasing in june what should i be looking into.Will be my first time so my ?,s are.What cal. brand what bullet's and scope info would be helpful.When choosing bullets what are comparable to the size of 12gauge slug.How often to clean these.And allway's good hunting.

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The bullets you choose would depend on the muzzle loader a little. Are you getting a modern inline , flintlock or precussion ML.

Powder is in the form of pellets where you drop in 1,2,or 3 , 30-50gr charges and also in loose form.T7 Pryodex are in pellets and loose and if you get a inline you can shoot BH209 which is loose only.

To me the .50 is the way to go.The bullets are easy to find and its the most common caliber for them. They do make .32 / .45 / knight makes .52 and many .54.Your inline will be .45 or .50.

cleaning depends on the powder but you would clean very often when using T7 or Pryodex. As in almost after every shot.

Steve

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Will be getting modern not sure what brand yet.The TC is whatmy eye is on.If they need to be cleaned after every shot than sighting in must be a pain.What is the most common amount of powder used and bullet weight.Will only be using fr deer 150yrds max distance.

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If you get a inline you can shoot BH209 and cleaning can be done at the end of the day.I can get 30 shots no problem before I clean.

For me, most common would be 80-100gr depending on pellets or loose.I like the heavy bullets in the 300 - 460gr.Some like a 250gr xtp or sst. Their are so many choices its endless. If you buy pistol bullets in .451 / .452 in bulk like a XTP or deep curl you can shoot cheap. Sabots can be bought seperate too.

Conical which don't use a sabot are common too, 460gr no excuses is a great bullet as is the hornady 350gr FPB.

For starters I would use a 250-300gr XTP in a Harvester crush rib sabot.That bullet has killed more deer then any bullet going.

The whole TC line up is good form the impact to the pro-hunter.

Edited by sbuff
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BH209 is the way to go to reduce the fouling and need for cleaning so frequently. I have one mz set up for 777 pellets and one for BH209. Let me tell you, I cringe having to shoot the 777 just because of the annoyance factor.

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I think with just starting out i should get the pre made pellet's.When sighting in should i start at 50yrds like with shotgun.Also im not sure but a 300+grain bullet sounds like your going after something larger than whitetail,this is all new to me so info is good.

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Are you using a scope or open sight.I always start at 25 then go to 50. Just me.....

As stated I would get some 250gr XTP and crush rib sabots to start.

Once you get that dialed in , people can chime in on different bullets,tips,and anything else you might want to know.

Muzzle loading is a great sport but please be sure to read your owners manual first before shooting.

Steve

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Years ago, muzzleloading seemed so much simpler because there were not nearly as many options available as nowadays...<grin>..

Dom....A 12 gauge foster style slug and many sabot slugs weigh around 400 to 450 grains.. So, in comparison, a 300 to 460 grain muzzleloader bullet is not too extreme for deer...

Dave... Cleaning a traditional hooked breech ML like the Hawken is relatively easy.

First, remove the brass shim that holds the barrel to the stock. Detach the barrel from the stock. Heat up some water and a little dishsoap in a bucket, and place the BREECH end of the barrel in the bucket... Run a cleaning rod with a patch on a slotted tip down the barrel, and work it up and down, creating a suction in the barrel, until the water coming out the nipple is relatively clear.

Drain the water from the barrel.. Swab with a couple of dry patches and set the barrel muzzle down in a warm place until it is dry. When it is dry, run an oily patch down the muzzle to prevent rust, Just remember, before you use it again, run a couple more dry patches down the bore to remove the oil.

It's really much simpler than it sounds..

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Years ago, muzzleloading seemed so much simpler because there were not nearly as many options available as nowadays...<grin>..

Dom....A 12 gauge foster style slug and many sabot slugs weigh around 400 to 450 grains.. So, in comparison, a 300 to 460 grain muzzleloader bullet is not too extreme for deer...

Dave... Cleaning a traditional hooked breech ML like the Hawken is relatively easy.

First, remove the brass shim that holds the barrel to the stock. Detach the barrel from the stock. Heat up some water and a little dishsoap in a bucket, and place the BREECH end of the barrel in the bucket... Run a cleaning rod with a patch on a slotted tip down the barrel, and work it up and down, creating a suction in the barrel, until the water coming out the nipple is relatively clear.

Drain the water from the barrel.. Swab with a couple of dry patches and set the barrel muzzle down in a warm place until it is dry. When it is dry, run an oily patch down the muzzle to prevent rust, Just remember, before you use it again, run a couple more dry patches down the bore to remove the oil.

It's really much simpler than it sounds..

Pygmy thanks for the info. I want to "getter done "this year

Dave

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I always snap a cap on the renegade and a primer in the encore or sidekick. I on the other hand go the opposite direction with a rifle. I have fallen in love witht e 45 encore barrel. I shoot 10mm 40 cal 180 grain bullets in a crush rib sabot in front of 100 grains of bh209. Hits like the hammer of thor and deer crumble. It is a bit tougher to find components, but not impossible. You will definitely want blackhorn 209. Once you shoot it, you will never use anything else.

Edited by bubba
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Pygmy,

Do you fire a cap before loading? I have always done it because the guy who got me into it alwasy did. He swore it burned out any remaing oil and moisture. True?

Hehehehe... I am absolutely ANAL about that, Culver....

I run a dry patch down the bore a couple of times, and then I always snap 2 or 3 caps to be sure the nipple is clear. Often I stick a little wad of tissue in the muzzle and make sure that the cap blows it out briskly.. Doing this, I have never had a misfire while hunting.. I hunt with a traditional sidelock and #11 caps, too ..

Now, if I fire a shot in the woods and reload, I do not do this, just when loading a "clean" barrel.

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I can't remember the name of the book but I bought a book authored by Sam Fadela that explained everything about shooting Black Powder guns . I read it twice before buying my NEF Huntsman in-line . I had no one to teach me and the book really helped out . I loaned out the book and don't remember who I loaned it to ..........

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Eddie....Not being picky, but that was Sam Fadala , not "Fadela"..

There may some of his info online.

Geeze..I wish I was closer. It would be fun to get together with Dave and Dom and share a little "hands-on" input..

uhhhhhhhhh , must be the fault of SPELL CHECK ! B)

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Know im confused permit not needed for revolver/black powder but needed for singal shot.

If you really want to get conused, try this. (and I have no idea if this hold in NYC)

Blackpowder pistols are primative. revolvers and muzzleloaders. you can have them in NY without a pistol permit but you can not have them AND components to make them go bang without a pistol permit. SO if you want that nice ML pistol to hang above the mantlle of the fireplace you are good. But if you own it and black powder and caps and ball....you must have a permit.

If you plan on hunting with it, unless you are going to hit them over the head with it you need a permit for both, Just like Bubba said

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