Jump to content

Anyone tie their own String Loops ?


fasteddie
 Share

Recommended Posts

I used to use a metal Ultra Nok . I could hear a "ka-zinggggg" when I released my arrow . I bought some packaged string loop material at Dicks tied the loop and used it for a bit but the string material was real limp .

I bought some stiffer loop material at Gander Mt and tied a loop . It has held up great for a couple of years . I was able to find pictures of the tying instructions on one of the hunting sites .

I will never go back to shooting off the string !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fasteddie txs for the c/b.....sooo..if my string is is worn out at / below nock point ...it will clearly show signs of distress......I just looked at it..... it almost looks as if it has.. some kind of double layer..... sound right..

looks like a heli coil wrap......maybe it's part of the string......anyway..looks ok....iguess...........

........roger the "wax" .......skillet............

fish on.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All strings should have some type of serving, even long / recurve bows (around the where the string hits the limb tips). As for how long a string lasts, it depends on how much you shoot, if you keep it dry, and if you wax it, etc. I've had strings last a long time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are not hard to tie, but the loop material sold at Dicks is too soft. Shooting with a loop is the way to go because it allows you to draw inline with the nock as opposed to slightly above or below the line of the arrow. I don't recomend the rigid loops because they stress the bows string as opposed to the flexible loops.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I shoot the D-loop with my new Helium and I use the string release on my MQ1, I tried the D-loop on the MQ1 and ended up switching back due to a dif anchor point. The only dif I notice is the lengthening of my draw with the D-loop. I went down to a 28" draw on my new bow and have 28 1/2" draw on my MQ1. Funny thing is the MQ1 is a shorter anchor point than the 28" Helium, due to 1/4 extra on draw with new bow and D-loop adds another 1/4 and release is dif. Making 2 compleatly dif anchor points... Both shoot good I just have to fix some issues with my form or get someone who knows how to paper tune a bow. According to C & B bows do not need to be paper tuned, yet I see my arrows wobble... And have issues with consistancy on the new bow. I went down to a 65 lbs draw instead of 70. I can not say I am shooting bad as I placed 1st in 1 shoot and I think I tied for 1st last week at Suffolk Archers but the pin point accuracy is not thier...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been using loops on all of my Recurve,Long and Compound Bows for over 10 years.Because of a injury to my right hand.I could no longer draw any of my bows with my fingers,So I decided to use a release with loops on my bow strings.I only use the material sold for making the loops,Not what He used in the vidio.I do heat the ends of the material with a lighter,I have not had one come loose at all and all of my strings are not worn or fraied.Just keep them waxed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My draw length changed due to dif releases, with the on string release which was close causing a under chin anchor point with my thumb, trigger was at my mouth area. With the D-loop you add about a 1/4 inch plus the Helium is known to have a extra 1/4 inch more than advertised making a 28 inch draw 28 1/4. The new release has a trigger that is even longer about a 1/4 inch so my anchor point with the D-loop is the back of my jaw w/thumb. New release all so has my hand back slightly again causing a longer draw point. (I use my 2nd knuck on trigger w/string and 1st knuckle w/D-loop) I am using ICS Beeman Hunter 400 8.4 gpi the same arrows I used with the MQ1. I could go to 340's and see how they shoot but with a 100 grain tip I am on the border of both according to a chart. I use ICS bowhunter 400 8.4 gpi that has slightly less straightness yet is good for practice. I will test the hunters more and see if the wobble is present, I usually save them for hunting. Otherwise I am looking at dif releases due to this one causing a "long" anchor point. I am contemplating taking off the ring and setting the trigger back further on my release, it is adjusted as far back as is possible... I need a overdraw release, or just one that has better adjustment... I think the tension or thumb release would work I just dont like them, yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Splitg2 has it correct, a loop or release does not change draw length one bit. it only changes your anchor point. Unless you change the length between the string and rest/riser then you changed draw length. Your knock still makes contact at the same distance it always has putting a loop on or changing your release adds nothing to draw length. Your arrow knock should still contact at the same point as it always has as well, its where your hand anchors is what has changed.

Edited by wdswtr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...