fasteddie Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I used to use a metal Ultra Nok . I could hear a "ka-zinggggg" when I released my arrow . I bought some packaged string loop material at Dicks tied the loop and used it for a bit but the string material was real limp . I bought some stiffer loop material at Gander Mt and tied a loop . It has held up great for a couple of years . I was able to find pictures of the tying instructions on one of the hunting sites . I will never go back to shooting off the string ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skillet Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I don't tie my own, but I do use them. I don't like shooting off of my string either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishin Magician Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I don't tie my own, but I do use them. I don't like shooting off of my string either. is the loop what you hook the mechanical release to..?..........I don't have one..........does using the loop give you advantage.???.....haven't been bow hunting long............what am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sssurfertim Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I tie my own, very easy when you get the hang of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasteddie Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 The string loop eliminates the wear and tear on the string where the release is connected . The loop takes the abuse and can be easily changed . http://www.bowhunting.net/artman/publish/ConradDLoop.shtml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishin Magician Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 fasteddie txs for the c/b.....sooo..if my string is is worn out at / below nock point ...it will clearly show signs of distress......I just looked at it..... it almost looks as if it has.. some kind of double layer..... sound right.. looks like a heli coil wrap......maybe it's part of the string......anyway..looks ok....iguess........... ........roger the "wax" .......skillet............ fish on....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skillet Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 That extra wrap is called serving, if it fails, especially around your cams, your string is in danger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deerthug Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I actually took off my fraying string loop and added a metal D-loop. No more noise than with the string loop. I Would never go back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishin Magician Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 That extra wrap is called serving, if it fails, especially around your cams, your string is in danger. so all strings have this serving.....and you add the loop?.........soooo........how much shooting before the serving goes bad.............that's where the wax comes in huh................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skillet Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 All strings should have some type of serving, even long / recurve bows (around the where the string hits the limb tips). As for how long a string lasts, it depends on how much you shoot, if you keep it dry, and if you wax it, etc. I've had strings last a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karpteach Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'm with Deer Thug on this! The plastic D-loop has worked great for me for years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasteddie Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 I never noticed any noise until I shot one day wearing my hearing aids . I could hear a noise with the metal Ultra Nok . I don't hear the D-Loop . I said ........ I don't hear the D-Loop ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter49 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 WHAT ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasteddie Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 ..... .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geno C Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 i shoot a d loop, i did not do it myself tho i had it done. its pretty easy tho from what i see... i started shooting a loop way back when and ill never shoot differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wooffer Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 They are not hard to tie, but the loop material sold at Dicks is too soft. Shooting with a loop is the way to go because it allows you to draw inline with the nock as opposed to slightly above or below the line of the arrow. I don't recomend the rigid loops because they stress the bows string as opposed to the flexible loops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vietvet50 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 One of the best changes I ever made to there Fast Eddie and saves on the string too dont it. and actually they do last a long time and I shoot alot. vet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NFA-ADK Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I shoot the D-loop with my new Helium and I use the string release on my MQ1, I tried the D-loop on the MQ1 and ended up switching back due to a dif anchor point. The only dif I notice is the lengthening of my draw with the D-loop. I went down to a 28" draw on my new bow and have 28 1/2" draw on my MQ1. Funny thing is the MQ1 is a shorter anchor point than the 28" Helium, due to 1/4 extra on draw with new bow and D-loop adds another 1/4 and release is dif. Making 2 compleatly dif anchor points... Both shoot good I just have to fix some issues with my form or get someone who knows how to paper tune a bow. According to C & B bows do not need to be paper tuned, yet I see my arrows wobble... And have issues with consistancy on the new bow. I went down to a 65 lbs draw instead of 70. I can not say I am shooting bad as I placed 1st in 1 shoot and I think I tied for 1st last week at Suffolk Archers but the pin point accuracy is not thier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNYBuckHunter Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 NFA, head over to Archerytalk and do a search for paper tuning. Theres lots of good threads over there that explain exactly how to do it. BTW, are you sure your arrows are spined correctly for the new bow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SplitG2 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Loops don't change draw length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
u812sds Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 it does change the draw length by 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.it's the differance from the string to the end of the loop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SplitG2 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Sorry, it only changes anchor point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gthphtm Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I have been using loops on all of my Recurve,Long and Compound Bows for over 10 years.Because of a injury to my right hand.I could no longer draw any of my bows with my fingers,So I decided to use a release with loops on my bow strings.I only use the material sold for making the loops,Not what He used in the vidio.I do heat the ends of the material with a lighter,I have not had one come loose at all and all of my strings are not worn or fraied.Just keep them waxed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NFA-ADK Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 My draw length changed due to dif releases, with the on string release which was close causing a under chin anchor point with my thumb, trigger was at my mouth area. With the D-loop you add about a 1/4 inch plus the Helium is known to have a extra 1/4 inch more than advertised making a 28 inch draw 28 1/4. The new release has a trigger that is even longer about a 1/4 inch so my anchor point with the D-loop is the back of my jaw w/thumb. New release all so has my hand back slightly again causing a longer draw point. (I use my 2nd knuck on trigger w/string and 1st knuckle w/D-loop) I am using ICS Beeman Hunter 400 8.4 gpi the same arrows I used with the MQ1. I could go to 340's and see how they shoot but with a 100 grain tip I am on the border of both according to a chart. I use ICS bowhunter 400 8.4 gpi that has slightly less straightness yet is good for practice. I will test the hunters more and see if the wobble is present, I usually save them for hunting. Otherwise I am looking at dif releases due to this one causing a "long" anchor point. I am contemplating taking off the ring and setting the trigger back further on my release, it is adjusted as far back as is possible... I need a overdraw release, or just one that has better adjustment... I think the tension or thumb release would work I just dont like them, yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdswtr Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) Splitg2 has it correct, a loop or release does not change draw length one bit. it only changes your anchor point. Unless you change the length between the string and rest/riser then you changed draw length. Your knock still makes contact at the same distance it always has putting a loop on or changing your release adds nothing to draw length. Your arrow knock should still contact at the same point as it always has as well, its where your hand anchors is what has changed. Edited May 10, 2012 by wdswtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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