dbHunterNY

I don't know specifically how DEC uses statistical analysis and probability to come up with tag allocations for the following year. it's been working ok and hasn't compounded any problems to a severe degree, so I'm assuming that "system" works. I do think that the system of reporting deer should be improved. in some areas of the country I've hunted we've had to bring the deer to be checked in after we shot it. just like voting you signed in with a book, recorded certain info, and then got a caracass tag to legally possess the deer and take it too a butcher, process it yourself, or whatever. I could see this being automated, to be processed easier. Maybe you get just a reporting verification # you've got to write down on your carcass tag you already possess. Another thing maybe the poll didn't make it out this way but I have never gotten any polling questionaires from DEC or ever heard of any one around here getting one. Without getting into DEC reports based on other management tools like ARs and other stuff, that's what I think. ....point is the current system works but only as good as the info being collected. if you know the data collected can be improved then why not do it? maybe then deer numbers will be more consistent from WMU to WMU, given the limitations of habitat and other factors.

they aren't going to say the current system doesn't work unless they're going to change it soon. statistical method isn't just as good as actual numbers I'm sure that's why it seemed strange to you. I believe we only get by with the system we have because NY is blessed with little problems in terms of EHD, CWD, and others. Also a big help is the simple fact that deer are so adaptable to where and how they live and grow as a population.

get an Otis gun cleaning kit with your gun calibers on the package. works the same as you're method but better. if you don't use a nylon or bronze brushes you're not cleaning it tight to the rifling enough (for a rifle). when cleaning it's important to go from the breech to the muzzle (end) of the barrel and not the other way. unscrew the brush or whatever at the end if you have too once running through. if the end of the rifling grooves in your barrel get messed up or oddly worn your gun won't shoot accurately worth a darn. I use a one piece coated cleaning rod for my bolt action rifles but I take the bolt out and put in what's called a bore guide. that and then other stuff, but all you need is a good solvent and the Otis kit though.

reporting system has got to be changed or deer numbers will go down and down and down. they think fewer deer have been taken then really have been. they issue more permits the following year. they then push to get permits filled when all really would be if everybody reported their deer.

I don't think there's any starter bows out there. you buy the best you can afford and stick with it.

first go to a proshop and get measured for drawlength and how much poundage you're comfortable with. if you don't have one near you... you can find drawlength as follows at home: measure your wing span from finger tip to finger tip. your arms should be fully extended but relaxed. take wing span number and divide that by 2.5 to get draw length. another way is to take wing span, substract 15, and then divide by 2 to get draw length. I like to do both and then take the average of the two. whatever you get for a number, round down to the nearest 1/2". that's the increments most bows draw lengths can be set to. to figure out poundage you'd need to pull a bow back at the shop. the maximum draw weight you can pull back, while sitting upright in a chair, with your feet exended straight out, and off the floor, is the weight you should have your bow set to. most are adjustable with a range of 10lbs. that would help you know if a used bow on archerytalk or ebay will fit you. now is the time to buy at a shop as there's leftovers and trade ins from others getting new bows. search around for a specific used bow on either site and you'll have an idea of ballpark cost. stick to a bow with a braceheight 6.5" or more.

you're lucky 777 will eat a barrel quick. my Prohunter has slight pitting from a similar mistake.

a spike (1.5 year old) will always be easier to kill in a given area than an older deer. i think you mean high pressured areas a spike where people actually shoot at them they'll be more wary, which i agree with. i agree too that old doe are hard to kill. that buck travels more than that old doe. she knows every spot she's busted you in the past and will walk into your stand with her eyes pegged on you the whole time. with the whole smart versus dumb thing. i think ALL deer are "smart" in the sense that they know how to avoid you if they wish, even a spike. a spike simply hasn't realized to what extent he has to avoid you. an older buck has been shot at, stalked, etc knows not to keep distance but to get the heck out of dodge.

I could never have my deer done by someone else and be happy. i grew up on a New England Polled Hereford (beef cattle) farm and learned from my dad. he had a store that processed meat with commercial equipment but he wasn't solely a butcher. over the years of him telling me you're plenty capable I've forgot most of the terms he used. i think most were terms for beef cuts which only half or so mean anything on a deer. your hard pressed the get the same from the ribs, brisket, plate, flank, or shank of a deer that you would off a cow. anything you do get goes to the grinder or "chop meat" as I've now learned. come to think of it we always had venison chuck steaks as a kid. those front shoulders are tougher and i'll put them in the grinder or make cubed stew meat out of them. when i said i usually get 4 roasts off a deer i'll have the eye and top rounds. the rest go into steaks or "stew meat" i usually marinate into venison spiedies (wife's from Binghamton area). we didn't weigh deer all the time but usually got about 65 lbs of meat off your average 140-150lb field dressed 2.5 yr old buck. i trim mine a bit more and probably get closer to just under 60 lbs. ....for the same deer.

HAHAHA.... i'll roll with that. up here in the north country I suppose we're different.

that's a lot of data entry

nice it's down to the wire for me... only have this weekend.

good to hear it.

sending you a PM.

congrats on your first! curious... was he alone or with other deer?

^^^^^ this ^^^^^ .... however we do see many 2.5 year olds just within the ears, being closer to 15-16". that's outside not inside for me.

get references or ask people that the loggers did work for too. some loggers go in and do the work but leave a mess of your land and woods. good loggers don't.

....when I say funneling deer I mean shifting there path of travel from where they already go to. that it unless you're creating whole new sources of significant cover.

keep in mind a logger won't want to stop and slow work to have you point out individual trees to fell where. however, you can come up with a general direction you want groups of trees to be hing cut. when you hing cut a tree it creates a barrier that the deer will walk around. you can use hinge cuts to funnel deer naturally. in more open timber you can create check points the deer may go to for browse. then where it's real thick the deer will take paths easier to travel so using them as barriers work. come up with a general idea. fill the logger in that's doing to hinge cutting and then let them be to do their thing, unless they come to you or it's not at all what you want.

regarding the whole "mature doe" tangent... I've got access to land where doe are passed frequently and live to grow old and many times die. I use this land to fill a couple late season tags. a mature doe to me is probably 4.5+ years old maybe, but more certainly one that ways in excess of 140lbs, after being field dressed. if there ears and heads don't look small and their bodies deep from top to bottom then they probably aren't mature.

it's pretty much been said... spikes are 1.5 yr olds but not all 1.5 yr olds are spikes. all 1.5 yr olds are pretty easy to kill compared to older deer. it's just they haven't learned enough yet. during the rut a 1.5 yr old will follow your boot tracks laced with doe pee right to the base of your tree. a 3.5+ year old will stop and circle down wind at a distance slowly. on the family farm we've drive right by within bow range of many 1.5 yr old spike horns. that said toward the end of the season they do get a little wiser.

Any participating in this 22LR bullseye pistol league? I'm thinking about getting into it. just started shooting a pistol. have less than 300 rounds through one probably. I figure it'll make the learning curve quicker if I'm "thrown to the wolves".

so "chopped meat" to you both is chopped meat ready to be ground or is it ground? I'm guess it's ready to be ground.

yup I'm 6' and if I were any shorter I could see the cables hanging low as being a problem. it comes with a strap to hold them together when packing them and top section to the tree when hunting. cable system is clumsy and can be loud at first but you get it down quick.

I own a Summit Openshot climber and Lone Wolf Alpha hangon. I love them both. quality is there for both. summit's cable system is easy to use and works well. It can be loud only if you're banging the cable against the stand when hooking it up around the tree. I really have no complaints other than I'd sacrifice carrying some more weight for a slightly bigger platform. I knew what I was getting though. it's perfect for hiking far in and bowhunting out of. the lone wolf platform design doesn't get iced up, gives lots of grip, and is very silent. mine also bites and grabs the tree like you wouldn't believe. I'm sure these qualities are the same for the climbers.