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Waterfowl shooting problem


Live2Hunt
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Ok, had a great duck opener.

Plenty to see and shoot at ,only one problem, only one in the freezer.

This is my first season duck /goose hunting.

I am shooting a mossberg 500 with modified choke and # 2 steel shot.(heavy metal and kent)

I hit seven birds, splash in the water,(out of range for another shot) by the time I can get out to them, they recover and fly away.

Had only one that was dead at the scene.

Do I need to lead them more??

Different choke tube?

I am a fairly decent shot 17 out af 25 for trap.

Maybe not focusing enough (it really gets the heart going when they come in).

I need to figure this out.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Something to get me in the right direction.

and I know practice ,practice practice.

Thanks Guys!!

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Its not the ammo, or choke setup. Sounds like operator errors lol. Your simply not getting enough pellets on target, whether it be the range your shooting or your lead. I would make the assumption that your shooting a little to far, maybe not quite out of effective range but a little far for your setup. Remember that steel sucks, and sometimes it takes two to kill a duck. Today, we had 8 geese come in to the decoys, with 3 guys all 8 fell. When we went to gather the 8 two of them got up and flew and had to be shot again flying away. Another 2 had to be shot running away -no dog. Be ready for a quick follow up.

Read this-http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/guns/2008/02/how-get-ahead

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my mossberg 500 in 20 ga shoots winchester expert the best. with steel shot a mod choke holds a tight pattern out to 25 yards. i got a mossberg 930 now and the expert steel still shoots the best. if you decide to get use a full choke you cant use the stock ones as it consricts the shot to tight

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Honestly, I would tell you 25 to 35 yards out. I can see there eyes when shooting.

I know I have to do my decoy set a little different to get them in a little closer.But they were coming in. (was awesome)

Operator error, I am humble and that was my first thought.

And how do I correct it.

I need suggestions on how you got better at this.

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25 to 35 yards- are you over choked? Hitting them with only a few pellets on the outskirts of the shot string? There are so many variables to consider its impossible to pinpoint one. Needless to say your doing something right, your hitting them -just not enough. I would start out with patterning your shotgun at the range you expect to shoot and see how it looks. Maybe take an IC choke with you and give it a try.

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I agree that it's probably operator error but I would pattern your gun just to make sure you don't have any holes in your pattern. And if you do try a different choke/shell combo. Also what I've noticed a lot of people do (me included) when it comes time too shoot is they don't get down on their gun fully and end up shooting high, and sometimes crippling birds. Make sure your cheek is tight and you have a good sight picture of your bead and the bird. Good luck!

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Kentfasteel works very well for me...I never use any steel shot smaller than #2 for ducks and BB for geese..

I suspect that you are using too tight a choke.. You are just fringeing those birds...I use a IC choke in my 11-87and IC/mod in my O/U.

I would HIGHLY recommend an IC choke tube with steel shot in any single barreled gun at any range that steel shot is capable of cleanly killling waterfowl..Which is about 40 yards..

I suspect that switching to an IC choke is the best advice you will get from this thread.

However, when you are talking about steel, SPEED KILLS.

That is unlike lead, where 200 -300 FPS is much less important than pattern density and weight of the shot load.

There are many factory loads today with high velocity non toxic loads.

I have had good luck with the Kentfasteel. There are probably other loads that work as well, or perhaps better.

I DO know that the Kents kill much better than the generic steel loads that were available back when non toxic shot first beame mandatory.

Edited by Pygmy
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I am a pretty avid waterfowl hunter have been for a long time and a lot of it is focusing down the barrel and not just shooting at the game. Clay targets are way different then live game especially when coming at you at all angles and speeds and flaring at the last minute Your fine with a modified choke that is best for duck hunting. I would switch to 4s instead of 2s for duck and leave the 2s for goose. Gives you more shot spread out in a little bigger pattern. Kents are a very good shell. What size shell are you using?? 2 3/4, 3, or 3 1/2. I would suggest using 3s or 3 1/2s! Depending on direction the birds are coming you may need to lead them a bit more. However I always say its best to let the birds decoy in and not just sky bust. Work on your calling, have the right decoy spread working with the wind and let them cup up and suck right down in. Be patient and wait for them to just about hit the water, at this point their momentum in sucking them down and is a perfect time to "Take Em". Your shots are usually straight on allowing you time if you miss to follow up by the time the birds have enough momentum to get the lift they need to fly away. Patients and practice and experience will make you a better shot and hunter!! Good luck and enjoy the wonderful world of waterfowl hunting!!! :)

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Although it is true you should reevaluate your choke, ammo, and shooting, you are probably shooting too far. A first year waterfowler getting seven in-range shots - I would think its more likely you were sky-blasting.

Five hunters all emptying 3-shot semis are putting alot more shot into a bird then one or two hunters, thats why TV/Video hunts show birds falling at 40 yards all the time. Keep in mind as well, the guy with the camera is set back from the gunners, so the distance is further exagerated.

The proverbial 40 yard maximum - is just that the maximum... Its not a high percentage shot. Here is a video Tom Roster who nowdays writes the ballistics columns for the big outdoor magazines. This video is OLD - the steel shot ammo we have today is much better than what he is shooting 20 years ago; which was likewise better than even earlier steel shot ammo.

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Hi Mike,

Just watched the video. I would first start of by saying I know none of my shots were at those far distances. These guys were really shooting far out.

Time to take the gun out , pattern and practice practice practice.

Secondly....Next week I will be out of the boat standing,instead of sitting and shooting.

I know I had some swing issues sitting.

I am also going to put a stake 30 yards out to help with the perception of distance.

Alot of things to work on didn'y expect such a learning curve.

I wish I would have done this earlier in my youth. But man this is exciting.

Kind of like getting buck fever again.LOL

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You will get it, good luck... Good point about getting out of the boat... if you are swinging a shotgun fast enough to hit ducks, you will either fall over or tip a boat if you are standing. You need to get out of the boat and wade. Its not the recoil that tips boats, its your swing, and if your not swinging, you cant hit birds...

Edited by mike rossi
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Saying "steel sucks" is an understatement. Steel shoots way tighter than lead and wont hit as hard as lead because its lighter. Try #4's and an IC choke, It should give you a denser pattern. that always worked the best for me. I always thought that you can't lead them too much with steel.

The first time I went duck hunting I burned through 2 boxes of steel and dropped 2 ducks. I though something was wrong with the gun till I found out that STEEL SUCKS!!

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Isn't steel mandatory for waterfowl?

Well sort of, non-toxic shot is required. There are many alternatives as well, Hevi-shot, and other shells that are combinations of Bismuth, Tungsten, and copper. Which are denser and heavier than steel.That is if you can afford them, as they are nearly triple the price of budget steel. If you are on a budget and shoot quantity rather then quality, like me, steel is the only option.

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Saying "steel sucks" is an understatement. Steel shoots way tighter than lead and wont hit as hard as lead because its lighter. Try #4's and an IC choke, It should give you a denser pattern. that always worked the best for me. I always thought that you can't lead them too much with steel.

The first time I went duck hunting I burned through 2 boxes of steel and dropped 2 ducks. I though something was wrong with the gun till I found out that STEEL SUCKS!!

I think most of us miss a lot of ducks on our first hunt...

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I still remember my first duck hunt when I was 14.

I had some experience on crows, grouse, woodcock and pheasants and thought I was a pretty fair wingshot.

I missed 12 ducks..Finally got a drake woodie that flew by at almost eye level. He was going almost straight away.. My first duck.

After that, another flock came by and I led a duck by a distance that I thought was INCREDIBLE, and folded him..

Ducks fly a LOT faster than any upland birds, and you must lead them accordingly..

Geese fly fast, too, but they don't APPEAR to be flying too fast, because of thier size and slower wingbeats..

You best be out in front of them if you want to kill them.

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Better than anything Ive done, Being my first season hunting waterfowl, I'm running #2s in a 3in shell through a full choke, and missed prolly ten times before i folded up a woody, When i breasted the bird out i had a bunch of shot in the breast area, But the bird still flew a hundred yards and wadded up in the woods, If i didn't have a trained Lab who caught her scent 50 yds out and chased it down and caught it i wouldn't have brought that bird home, Just like the guy who started this post i'm in need of advice, I cant get geese to commit and ducks laugh when they fly by like little mini fighter jets, I'm clueless when it comes to waterfowl, If you want to kill a deer i can help with that, But ducks are way different than bucks,

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