Arrow length please help!

[AaronBlaine]

hey guys just measured my draw length and it comes out to 28" anyone know what size arrows I should buy!? thanks a lot

[jr.deerslayer]

Going to need more info. Number of things to be considered. Need draw weight, type of cam, going to be used for 3d, target or hunting?

[Carbonelement]

go to a bowshop and have them measure for u!

[jesse.james]

You're best bet is to buy them from the Pro shop you get your bow from they will measure you. I have a 30 inch draw and the carbon Shafts not including tips or nocks measures 28 inch but I'm cutting it real close.

[Geno C]

you should go to a pro shop and have them help you out... there are many variables to consider and think about when deciding on arrow size and also weight for that matter. getting a little help from a shop in person would be a good bet

[AaronBlaine]

Guys thank you so much! I am going to be purchasing the pse dream season dna with a #70 draw strength I plan on hunting deer and the bow shoots 350fps I am going for a carbon arrow.  My draw length is 28.  I will stop by the pro shop however the bow is much cheaper online.  I would like to give them my business as the internet is killing there sales.  I also want my children to be able to enjoy the use of a pro shop in the future!  Thanks again guys hope this helps.

[Fantail]

This may be usefull

 

[jr.deerslayer]

Make sure you try it before you buy it. The draw is smooth but its still built for speed and will be different if your not used to it. Short brace height, and not much of a valley. Cant be lazy with this one  give it some slack and it will want to take off. If your form is off you'll find out real quick. Remember you wont be shooting 350, actually probably not even close with a 28 in draw. Still quick but not 350. Sick bow I'd buy one in a second if funds were available. Just be warned...

[nyslowhand]

What Fantail displayed is a good "rule of thumb", but I'd get the pro shop to confirm this. BTW - Hope you're talking about a local, individually owner archery shop and not one of those big-box stores with a $10/hr self-proclaimed expert behind the counter..!

 

Went through the same exercise a few years ago with local vs online bow purchase. Went to a local shop and shot a lot of bows, numerous times until I found one I really wanted. Went online and got same one for $100 less. So..in the end, by the time you take the new bow to the  local shop and pay to get it set-up, with the disapproving scowling, your savings have shrunk! Although the shop (dealer) is obligated to repair your bow if anything happens, they'll remember you didn't buy it from them and you might not get the speedy service as if it were purchased there. That in itself is worth a lot to me!!

 

FYI - Those advertised fps/speeds are sales hype much like new vehicle MPG ratings. Chronographing is accomplished in ideal lab conditions with max draw wgt, light arrows, max draw length and using a mechanical release device. My guess is you'll be in the 330fps range or less. Faster (fps)  bows inherently have shorter brace heights, which have the disadvantage of being somewhat less forgiving. As much as we'd like to think we've perfected our form & consistency to become almost instinctive while shooting in the backyard, in real hunting situations we can perform less than ideally.......... IMHO, giving up some speed for a 7"+ brace hgt that's more forgiving and can literally improve my flawed form & consistency is a no-brainer for me.

Edited September 12, 2013 by nyslowhand

[Doc]

Check this process out. It shows the most reliable way of establishing arrow length: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9JvS34x3iM

Note that there is a major difference in what this guy is saying from what is depicted in Fantail's diagram. This is because there is a difference depending on the use of the arrow ..... Field tip vs. broadhead.

 

I am a firm believer in establishing arrow length, using a real bow, with real accessories, and measuring directly instead of trying to use "wing-span" rules of thumb and some kind of calculation. This little U-tube clip is about the most reliable way. Most likely, you will not have a "measuring arrow" like they do, but any over-sized arrow can work with a felt-tip marker and somebody there to do the marking.

[landtracdeerhunter]

Their are times when I think about having my broadhead one inch further forward than what  my arrow lenth was set at , at a professional bow shop. The razor sharp broadhead being just a little father away frrom the bow.  Does anyone have any input to what this might have an effect on if any, if  it were to be lengthen? Would an inch longer arrow be to long on a compound?

 

 

edit.

Edited September 12, 2013 by landtracdeerhunter

[SteveB]

An arrow cannot be too long unless the length weakens the dynamic spine too much.

An arrow can be too short.

[LI OUTDOORSMAN]

The most important point brought up in the video is the use of a what we call a "shop release". It simulates a release but it cannot be fired.So many guys blowing up their bows on a dry fire before the season is about to start.Not good.Especially with these new speed bows, bad things happen during a dry fire, usally espensive things.On most bows that are fully setup and tailored to the owner a 1inch measurement in front of the riser is good.Which means depending on your setup your ARROW length could be different.Its bow specific ,your arrow length could change if you change to a different bow.

[Doc]

Their are times when I think about having my broadhead one inch further forward than what  my arrow lenth was set at , at a professional bow shop. The razor sharp broadhead being just a little father away frrom the bow.  Does anyone have any input to what this might have an effect on if any, if  it were to be lengthen? Would an inch longer arrow be to long on a compound?

 

Of course, for the speed-freaks, every extra piece of weight on the arrow costs some speed. Also, even though it is ahead of the rest, it will still effect the spine of the arrow. Of course the real secret is an inch or so is just about negligible in terms of speed and spine. However, there really is no need to go very far beyond the front face of your riser if your anchor and draw length are consistent. In fact depending on the bow sight window cut-out design, it may not even be necessary to even go that far (remember the "over-draw?)