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Taking the plunge


cdmckane
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You can shoot back tension with any release. I have my buddies longhorn that I practice with. I only hunt and shoot comp. with thumb trigger but shoot it with the back tension process. It's nice to have that trigger just in case you have to punch it. That's what we call a "drive by" when shooting target...lol.

 

 

That carter just shoots when its supposed too when squeezing the back - always a surprise and no thought needed - very natural for me.  Much harder for me to naturally shoot my fuse cinch with back tension.  But, I feel like there is less room for a really bad shot with the fuse when hunting.  I might just need more time shooting back tension to gain confidence and recognize I could punch if needed on the "drive by".  lol

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Here's a question I have, I see there's two ways to measure draw length......the one with the mathematical formula were you measure your arm span and do the calculation and the one with the marked arrow that you draw back to your anchor point and then add 1.75 inches, and not everyone uses the same anchor point...will you get the same measurement from both methods?

 

slightly different.  there's two ways to calculate it that I know of too.  one way is take (wing span) / 2.5 and the other way is (wing span -15) /2, but both will be pretty close.  I usually average the two ways.  then anyway you do it, it's best to round down to the nearest 0.5".  another note, when you measure wing span you should be stretched but relaxed and not straining hard to reach.

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Seems simple to me.. I close my eyes draw my bow(27.75" dl) back to my anchor point. feels perfect

Close my eyes you take my 1/2" d loop off and I draw back.Suddenly ,not so perfect.I need a bow with a 1/2"longer dl

I have to agree that at no point does my draw length get longer or shorter but my bows dl needs to.

Now for some.. the position of the string on their nose and or face take precedent over all else for their anchor. These people would have to adjust their hand position to accommodate, not their bow.

 

If we exaggerate a little bit.. We could add a 4"loop to a bow. no doubt we would have to change bows draw length then.

 

why is this wrong?

 

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I bet there has been so much misinformation given out to casual archer's from less than perfect shop's and salesman that a lot of guys honestly don't know what's right or wrong, or what has been working for them forever without problems may not be the right way to do it.......not everyone is obsessed with equipment, some go to the shop, have their bow set up and practice like they should before hunting, and every problem that pops up the shop fixes it.

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I bet there has been so much misinformation given out to casual archer's from less than perfect shop's and salesman that a lot of guys honestly don't know what's right or wrong, or what has been working for them forever without problems may not be the right way to do it.......not everyone is obsessed with equipment, some go to the shop, have their bow set up and practice like they should before hunting, and every problem that pops up the shop fixes it.

 

Then it would be wise for these people to try to listen to a more qualified individual on here instead of arguing with them...............BTW  I made it 15 pages before jumping in!

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Then it would be wise for these people to try to listen to a more qualified individual on here instead of arguing with them...............BTW  I made it 15 pages before jumping in!

I would think it's hard to be sure of a persons qualifications from an anonymous message board.........I've maybe picked 3 people out of these 15 pages who convinced me they know what they're talking about, and I'm certainly not one of them.

Edited by jjb4900
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Then it would be wise for these people to try to listen to a more qualified individual on here instead of arguing with them...............BTW  I made it 15 pages before jumping in!

 

Not trying to argue but trying to learn and understand.

 

Bowtoon seems like he knows his stuff just trying to understand. Don't won't to just be told I would like to understand why.

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OK, I may be just beating my head against the wall here but let me try to take a stab at explaining it. To find your draw length, you measure your wingspan and divide it by 2.5....correct? Once this is established, it don't change unless your wingspan grows or shrinks drastically. Putting a D loop on your bow does not change your wingspan, thus your draw length don't change. This is the best way I can explain it. If you don't get it, I don't know what else to tell you.

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I guess we're still talking about draw length and anchor points ....hhmmm.

 

well I believe that the best way to measure draw length properly is to use the arrow with the lines or a full length shaft.  the bow tech or shop pro will then have you come back to full draw and anchor at multiple points.  he'll then make sure your form is correct; from behind your forearm should be in line with the arrow shaft and from the side view your forearm should look in line with the arrow shaft but actually parallel really.  they will then note the length or mark the full length arrow with tape and then measure it once un-nocked.

 

older days of longer bows used to allow that draw length to be fitted more finite that you could touch the corner of your mouth and the tip of your nose both to the string at different (anchor) points.  now with shorter bows it's tough to get both so we usually call it good with just the corner of your mouth.  as long as your forearm is inline with the arrow shaft it doesn't really matter.  now the d-loop or release length can be fine tuned beyond the measured draw length to allow you addition anchor points of your hand or maybe release handle locked behind the corner of your jaw bone. all these "anchor points" form your "anchor" as a whole. the idea is more anchor points means more consistency and more stability in your release hand, which all leads to more accuracy or more things to realize your screwing up making you not shoot well. lol

Edited by dbHunterNY
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No one is claiming that your drawlength changes when you add a d-loop!

 

And no one is claiming the bows drawlength changes when you add a D-loop!

 

WOW!!!!! You cant be serious dude? Did you read the whole thread? If not, I suggest you do so! Someone even drew pictures for you guys with no reading comprehension!

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I'm sure the OP appreciates all the help he has gotten... he must be so confused now that he'll probably give up bow hunting before he s even started... stick to trad stuff OP... stick bow and arrows, practice 20 yards and in... have fun instead of driving yourself nuts trying to figure out all this crap.

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WOW!!!!! You cant be serious dude? Did you read the whole thread? If not, I suggest you do so! Someone even drew pictures for you guys with no reading comprehension!

 

If you are arguing either of these two points  You missed the point!

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I'm sure the OP appreciates all the help he has gotten... he must be so confused now that he'll probably give up bow hunting before he s even started... stick to trad stuff OP... stick bow and arrows, practice 20 yards and in... have fun instead of driving yourself nuts trying to figure out all this crap.

Yeah good advice. Or maybe he should just get himself an Xbow and carry on with his bow hunting. lol

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It all basically comes down to form. Without good form. Your just not going to be consistent/accurate. I can shoot any DL somewhat accurately, but my form is going to suck!

DL too long= leaning back, slapping arm with string and unstable/pull shots to right

DL too short= leaning forward bent bow arm and unstable/pull shots to left

DL perfect= Standing upright makes you most stable and slows down float pattern.

Now. You finally get to the point of perfect DL and form is good.

You lengthen your D Loop while keeping the same form. It will only move your release hand back. Shorten your D Loop. It will only move your hand forward.

Now. You finally get to the point of perfect DL and form is good.

You lengthen your DL. your form will be broken down/ leaning back to get that same anchor point you had when your form was good.

You shorten your DL . Your form will be broken down / leaning forward/ bending bow arm to get that same anchor when your form was good.

Form,form,form

Without it. Your only going to be so accurate and some are happy with that. If you want to be the best you can be. It takes a lot of work and time.

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Slow down, read what you just wrote.99% of it is true and written in archery 101. Until you get to the spot where you say that our hand will have to move to accommodate a loop. Our hand is connected to the rest of our body..If someone already had the "perfect" form, why would he change it to accomodate a loop?

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He's just trying to explain how adding a loop don't change your draw length, it changes your anchor point. If you add a loop, you have to find a comfortable anchor point with it. You can lengthen or shorten the loop a little to get that anchor point perfect. Adding a loop wont make you have bad form, unless your loop is 3 inches long.

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To get where you want your hand to anchor. Moving your hand forward/ backward will not change where your face anchors to the string. Changing the DL settings will, unless you move your head/ body to accommodate for DL change which in return changes your form. Like I said before. This is all trial and error until you find what gives you the best results. It all comes down to what results you are happy with. If you want to believe D Loop changes your DL that's fine. We will just have to agree to disagree.

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And this is how I kept the same Anchor Point   attachicon.gifRel 001.JPG

 

By ncountry, If someone already had the "perfect" form,why would he change to accomodate a loop?

I already use a release because of a hand injury.When I bought my new compound bow the archery shop said to try a loop ( do not want to start another P*****g contest ) but when asked them why they said the bow will shoot more consistant. which I have found to be true and now have loop on all of my trad. bows and compounds.

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