Taking the plunge

[ncountry]

To get where you want your hand to anchor. Moving your hand forward/ backward will not change where your face anchors to the string. Changing the DL settings will, unless you move your head/ body to accommodate for DL change which in return changes your form. Like I said before. This is all trial and error until you find what gives you the best results. It all comes down to what results you are happy with. If you want to believe D Loop changes your DL that's fine. We will just have to agree to disagree.

I do not agree that a loop changes MY dl.......for me, I shortened my bows dl..

I will agree to disagree though...lol

[Bowtoons]

I think the majority of archers out there are shooting to long of a DL. If you attend a shoot. Just watch how many guys on the line are leaning back. They believe it's the correct DL because their "pro" shop told them it was. I don't claim to be the best shot or have the ultimate perfect form, but I do know what to look for and know what to do to help someone out. I have a buddy that was an 240avg. in league and after getting his new bow and helping him get straighten out. He is now in the mid/high 280's. It's all about the results.

[jjb4900]

being one of the ones who didn't quite understand the whole DL changing / not changing when you add a D-Loop, I think I do now and can maybe explain it in simple terms......if your DL is 29", your string draws 29" away from the bow (to keep it simple) and stops at a certain point on your face that you probably use as an anchor point, for me it's the tip of my nose and corner of my mouth........if I add a D-Loop, that string is still going to stop at the same anchor points because 29" of draw is 29" of draw......now say I want to shorten my draw length by say 1/2 an inch, because I don't like where my hand stops, that string will no longer have the length to reach my anchor points because it's now 1/2" too short...........does that make sense?

[Bowtoons]

being one of the ones who didn't quite understand the whole DL changing / not changing when you add a D-Loop, I think I do now and can maybe explain it in simple terms......if your DL is 29", your string draws 29" away from the bow (to keep it simple) and stops at a certain point on your face that you probably use as an anchor point, for me it's the tip of my nose and corner of my mouth........if I add a D-Loop, that string is still going to stop at the same anchor points because 29" of draw is 29" of draw......now say I want to shorten my draw length by say 1/2 an inch, because I don't like where my hand stops, that string will no longer have the length to reach my anchor points because it's now 1/2" too short...........does that make sense?

Bingo!!! I'm more of a hands on than able to explain. I just thought it was pretty much common sense. Not to throw a curveball in the mix of your explanation, but now what will you need to do to get that string to touch your face after you have shortened the DL?

[jjb4900]

Bingo!!! I'm more of a hands on than able to explain. I just thought it was pretty much common sense. Not to throw a curveball in the mix of your explanation, but now what will you need to do to get that string to touch your face after you have shortened the DL?

first let me say I don't use a D-Loop, so this has never been a problem for me just found it an interesting topic so it got me thinking..........and I would assume one would have to move their face forward, thus throwing off their form......and I think that having someone help you hands on, gets the point across a lot easier, because you can see and feel the changes.....

Edited March 1, 2014 by jjb4900

[Bowtoons]

first let me say I don't use a D-Loop, so this has never been a problem for me just found it an interesting topic so it got me thinking..........and I would assume one would have to move their face forward, thus throwing off their form.

Now we're getting somewhere.

[Bowtoons]

The door jamb method is probably the most effective tool to tell if you DL is long/short IMO. It is also free! You will immediately know where your at when you draw back as long as your leg and entire side of your body up to your arm pit is touching. Everyone I've had do this. Looks at me and says. "man that feels awkward". Well.....it feels awkward because you've been shooting the wrong DL for so long. Your body has gotten used to it.

[orion]

I guess there are two trains of thought here

 

1) Ncountry,and myself believe that your hand's anchor point of being in the correct place and your arm having the correct form take precedence over where the string might contact your face. Using this anchor and whatever release and d-loop are used to measure the drawlength of the bow you will be ordering.

 

2) Most others(If i am not mistaken) believe that you measure the drawlength based on your anchor of where the nock contacts a certain part of your face(cormer of mouth?),  nock point anchor takes precedent of hand anchor.

[Bowtoons]

Keep in mind when ordering a bow. Almost all manufacturers flub their numbers. Most run 1/4" up to 3/4" longer than stated. This is why I would never buy a DL specific cam bow unless you know damn well what DL you are and what said Manu really measures. You can tweak DL a little by twisting/untwisting strings. If you go with a rotating mod you can mess around with different lengths for the best results. In the end that's what were after. The best results.

[Doc]

Somehow it seems like we have pretty much come a full circle with the draw length fiasco. I will go back to my original statement that when buying a new bow, a bow-shop pro can do you the best service by taking a bow that is set up with exactly the equipment you will be using (that incudes a D-loop if you intend to use one). Using your best form, or even perhaps some changes that the pro may recommend, pull back the bow to where you have what feels like the most repeatable and consistent anchor. Have that pro measure the resultant draw length (Your personal draw length), and order a bow that has a compatible bow length. That is the recommendation that I initially answered this topic with many pages ago, and I have yet to see any objection to any part of that procedure that has any merit. No one should be modifying anchors or form or accessories to accommodate an ill-fitting bow. Measure properly and order properly.

[cdmckane]

Just got back from Klein's. Shot a couple different bows and ended up buying a new Parker Eagle. All set up with a whisker biscuit, 3 pin sight and quiver. Also bought 6 carbon arrows, but I pulled a Robin Hood and ruined 2 of them.

Shot for 2 hours today, and he's throwing in 3 more hours of range time and a tune up before the season.

He measured my wingspan and set the bow up with a 27" draw. I'm using a trigger release and a D loop. Here are pics of my first group with it as well as one of my ruined arrows.

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[Doc]

It appears to me that you did a proper job of selection. Good for you.

 

Now you might want to go to a 4 or 5 spot target face with one shot per spot ..... just to save your arrows and a pile of money.

[Bowtoons]

Just got back from Klein's. Shot a couple different bows and ended up buying a new Parker Eagle. All set up with a whisker biscuit, 3 pin sight and quiver. Also bought 6 carbon arrows, but I pulled a Robin Hood and ruined 2 of them.

Shot for 2 hours today, and he's throwing in 3 more hours of range time and a tune up before the season.

He measured my wingspan and set the bow up with a 27" draw. I'm using a trigger release and a D loop. Here are pics of my first group with it as well as one of my ruined arrows. uploadfromtaptalk1393709371877.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393709385420.jpg

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Glad everything worked out for you and your happy. Question. Did they do any bare shaft tuning through paper or bare shaft shooting with fletched shafts? Just curious.

[ncountry]

Just got back from Klein's. Shot a couple different bows and ended up buying a new Parker Eagle. All set up with a whisker biscuit, 3 pin sight and quiver. Also bought 6 carbon arrows, but I pulled a Robin Hood and ruined 2 of them.

Shot for 2 hours today, and he's throwing in 3 more hours of range time and a tune up before the season.

He measured my wingspan and set the bow up with a 27" draw. I'm using a trigger release and a D loop. Here are pics of my first group with it as well as one of my ruined arrows. uploadfromtaptalk1393709371877.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393709385420.jpg

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That's awesome! Archery is an great sport. As long as you shoot at different spots you can shoot hundreds if not thousands of tines at little cost.One advantage over firearms. And once you start archery hunting,esp..successfully , you will not believe how much more intense/ fun it is..

[thphm]

Just got back from Klein's. Shot a couple different bows and ended up buying a new Parker Eagle. All set up with a whisker biscuit, 3 pin sight and quiver. Also bought 6 carbon arrows, but I pulled a Robin Hood and ruined 2 of them.

Shot for 2 hours today, and he's throwing in 3 more hours of range time and a tune up before the season.

He measured my wingspan and set the bow up with a 27" draw. I'm using a trigger release and a D loop. Here are pics of my first group with it as well as one of my ruined arrows. uploadfromtaptalk1393709371877.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393709385420.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

 

Congrats on the new bow and you have learned the hard way,I have always said shooting Groups is a waist of money more so with carbon arrows.My targets have 6 bullseyes on them and shoot at all six not just 1 circle.Enjoy and Practice,Practice.

[Doc]

I have one more recommendation that you might want to consider. Ask your bow shop guy if there are any archery clubs in the area. It sure does make the practice sessions more fun when you have someone to shoot with. Also, judging by the pictures of your initial results, there may be a natural talent for competitive shooting. Plus it's just a lot of fun to have other bowhunters to talk to and throw around different ideas on tackle and techniques. It's just a suggestion that you might want to think about.

[WNYBuckHunter]

Just got back from Klein's. Shot a couple different bows and ended up buying a new Parker Eagle. All set up with a whisker biscuit, 3 pin sight and quiver. Also bought 6 carbon arrows, but I pulled a Robin Hood and ruined 2 of them.

Shot for 2 hours today, and he's throwing in 3 more hours of range time and a tune up before the season.

He measured my wingspan and set the bow up with a 27" draw. I'm using a trigger release and a D loop. Here are pics of my first group with it as well as one of my ruined arrows. uploadfromtaptalk1393709371877.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393709385420.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

 

Congrats on the new bow! I too say forget groups after you are sighted in. Shoot spots! Only the first shot counts in hunting anyway. Well, most of the time.

 

Now expect to get blasted for buying a Whisker Biscuit, because its not an accurate rest lol.

[Arrow Flinger]

Congrats on the new bow! I too say forget groups after you are sighted in. Shoot spots! Only the first shot counts in hunting anyway. Well, most of the time.

 

Now expect to get blasted for buying a Whisker Biscuit, because its not an accurate rest lol.

 

LOL!

 

[WNYBuckHunter]

[Bowtoons]

The reason people don't think they are accurate is because they (people) aren't accurate. What I mean by that is the arrow stays in contact with the rest through the whole shot process. So if you don't follow thru with the shot it is going to show up more than a drop away which drops almost immediately at the shot. Thus being more forgiving. So the next time someone tells you that the ugly cookie isn't accurate. Simply tell them. No. Your not accurate. LOL. I shot a whisker biscuit 2 hunting seasons ago and I had my bow shooting perfect bullet holes thru paper with bare shafts at 30 yrds. IDK how much more accurate you can get than that. I just prefer Limb Drivers over anything else.

[cdmckane]

Now expect to get blasted for buying a Whisker Biscuit, because its not an accurate rest lol.

It seems to be accurate enough. I highly doubt that anyone can say weather or not a deer cares if there arrow is an inch or two off the point of aim.

He offered a drop away rest but as a rookie, I prefer to keep it simple. The WB has less moving parts and, therefore, less chance of failure at the moment of truth.

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[Bowtoons]

It seems to be accurate enough. I highly doubt that anyone can say weather or not a deer cares if there arrow is an inch or two off the point of aim.

He offered a drop away rest but as a rookie, I prefer to keep it simple. The WB has less moving parts and, therefore, less chance of failure at the moment of truth.

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Nothing wrong with a biscuit man. Just be sure you follow through with your shots and you will be good to go. About the only way they can fail is if they freeze up which very rarely will ever happen.

[shawnhu]

It seems to be accurate enough. I highly doubt that anyone can say weather or not a deer cares if there arrow is an inch or two off the point of aim.

He offered a drop away rest but as a rookie, I prefer to keep it simple. The WB has less moving parts and, therefore, less chance of failure at the moment of truth.

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Make sure you use that magical spray on the WB or else!

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

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[moog5050]

Congrats CD - you will surely enjoy bowhunting.

[Five Seasons]

Congrats on the new bow! I too say forget groups after you are sighted in. Shoot spots! Only the first shot counts in hunting anyway. Well, most of the time.

 

Now expect to get blasted for buying a Whisker Biscuit, because its not an accurate rest lol.

 

WBs are great. I know we've gone pages on the topic. But it's Ford vs. Chevy to me. Switching to a dropaway from a WB myself, I now prefer that. But that's just me. Should someone ask my advice, I'd give them pros and cons, but one should never criticize someone elses choice.

Edited March 4, 2014 by Belo