Breaking ground what to use?

[sailinghudson25]

This is my one implement for an ATV if I only could have 1.

 

 

It's a spring harrow.  It tills down to 4 inches,  it's really  good at loosening rocks, so you just pick them up, not fight with them in the ground.  Got a ton of roots in your soil?  No problem, the spring collect them, tilt the harrow on the side and they roll out easy.

 

I wish someone made these new....  Mine's easily 80 year old.  But it's easy to fix, weighs little, and I can mix seed in the ground on low setting.  I got my used for $100.   Just buy some extra bolts and nuts if you got an older implement.

 

S tine rakes work similar to these, which is the pic of one you had.  They take more work to get them to work the soil, because they work the soil hard.  However, those good sized tires can tame the till depth down.

 

There is really no such thing as no till.......    You need soil contact.  However, you can have a great contact with any kind of implement you get.  If you got a driveway to maintain, then get a york rake or that drag harrow (chain harrow).    People have made huge rakes from lumber and screws.    I've seen a great food plot implement.  Take a big tire and drill a bunch of holes.  Buy nuts, bolts, and washers and bolt them to the tire.  Drag the tire.   Flip the tire over to smooth out or mix seed.

[wolc123]

If you kill the weeds with Roundup, then a small, pull-type disk or a field-cultivator like that shown in your first post would work ok.   The old spring-tooth harrow, like shown in the prior post, would require an even better chemical kill to get the ground ready for planting.  Rototiller don't do well with rocks   If you want to go the chemical-free organic route, then a plow would be a good option.  That primary tillage tool will turn under the weeds, but you will still need a secondary tillage tool (disk, cultimiulcher or field-cultivator) to break up the ground enough for planting.    Finding a local farmer to plow it for you the first year might save you some trouble and expense.  After breaking that ground the first time, you would likely be ok with just a secondary tillage tool in following years.   

I am not sure if there is a plow made that works ok with an ATV.  If not,you could probably locate an antique tractor, such as a Ford 8n, with a 1 x14" or 2 x12" plow, in decent shape, for less than $2 K.

[corydd7]

3 hours ago, growalot said:

Don't forget to choose plants the first 2 years that can work for you..read read read..buckwheat mines minerals with deep roots..handles poorer soils but delivers important growth nutrients to deer.....look for weed suppressing plants deer like...one's that help keep weed seeds from terminating...always remember soil health so you can ppl we imbalance things you can till in spring and still plant in fall without tilling..a roller is a hard thing to find used but a great great tool.

I also have Sunn Hemp and whitetail extreme. Reading has been my NEW favorite hobby since I bought the land in October. Really interesting what people choose and how to accomplish it. My mother in law bought me Quality Food Plots by Kent Kammermeyer I highly recommend even to those who have been doing this for a while.

[growalot]

You know those two bags of minerals are illegal to place out..other than that,make sure you have optimum ph for that seed brand to do well.

[corydd7]

Yeah they were free part of a package. Not sure what to do with them.

[TACC]

Growalot,

Please educate me.
Why are the minerals illegal?

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[NYBowhunter]

Setting out minerals to atract deer is considered baiting, which is illegal in NYS.

[sailinghudson25]

I'd take the minerals, mix them with a bag or two of lime and put them in the soil.

 

Farmers buy custom mixes of fertilizer with the same ingredients in there.

 

Is there any salt in them?

[growalot]

I would assume they are mostly salt as most are,but also contain enhancers to get the deer to eat them...minerals on their own aren't all that tasty.  If spread out over a good distance and worked in you shouldn't have a problem. You probably have way more road salt than that in your front lawn.

Most instances with such mixes and cattle mixes guys drop them and leave in rain  and moisture...then they get moldy..how do I know.Well read the labels there is a reason they say in a dry area . I raised goats,calves and hogs...they  got minerals granular and blocks...granular was the worst for this. Ground molasses was used as an enhanced. Moisture would find its way in the granular dispenser in the goat barn  and a white mold would grow...I had to check it daily.

Thanks for answering that NYbh.

One other thing ...not to derail this but it's been bugging me a while and this is a perfect instance to mention it.

I've been noticing not just chicken blocks but now turkey mineral/scratch blocks being sold...Think about this tightly packed blocked of seeds with molasses minerals ,salts and what ever else they use to "harden " the mixture...they are a bacteria mold growing mediums when left out in moisture and warmer weather...both fowl and deer have a delicate balance in their crops and guts. Just hitting fresh greens in spring can mess them up..So when guys drop this stuff and walk away they aren't doing the wild animals they are trying to attract to cameras or lands ANY favors,wet seed molds,bacterial will breed and yes the animals will test them before it's bad enough for them to avoid.

Edited March 17, 2017 by growalot

[LET EM GROW]

My favorite pull behind drag for a quad is the Spring Harrow. I have several and they do a good job. They collect vegetation, roots and pull rocks from the soil, usually more than youd like it too. Also i have a 6ft disk i pull behind my sub compact tractor or quad(if the soil is dry enough) that works well too. They both require multiple passes but work well.

I try to use my 4' PTO tiller on the Tractor when the soil isnt too rocky..

Last year i did all of my fall food plots in No till. Meaning i killed off the vegetation when it go to be 8" tall. I then waited until it was good and dead. Also waited for incoming rain(which was very rare this pass summer) then broadcast seed, rolled over it several times with a lawn roller and waited for rain. Every plot came up beautiful even with very minimal rain. I will be trying this with a bigger soybean/pea seed this May.. The key is to use the dead vegetation as a "Mulch Layer", it lays over the top of the seed and covers it as the roller then presses the small seed into soil. And rain then does its magic. 

With the bigger seed, im hoping for some decent rains so the soil is not as firm and dry when rolling the seed into, then hope for rain shortly after.. fingers crossed. 

Attached is 1 of my Brassica plots from this september, using this No Till method

Edited March 17, 2017 by LET EM GROW

[growalot]

Nice...you may want to check out the cow pea seeds..they ,as I recall ,are smaller than the soybeans...May work better...I was pleased how they came up both deep and shallow seeded....

[stubborn1VT]

Nice looking plot Let Em Grow!  That's good information.  Were these food plots in the past, or were you able to plant a brand new plot with this method? 

I would expect this would work with soybeans if broadcasted at a high enough rate.  They will germinate on top of the soil.  The layer of mulch would help alot by holding moisture and hiding them from birds.  

Good stuff.  Thanks for sharing.

[LET EM GROW]

I do plan to mix clay peas with some forage soys and grain soys this may if all goes well. My last soybean plot I disked in the soil and broadcast the soybean on top and never got to roll in or disk in the seed due to a steady rain beginning to fall. They grew perfect!

This plot has been in food plot rotation for about 11 years. Surprisingly has good soil too for being in central Steuben lol.

A buddy and i did an experiment in Wayne County, with Austrian peas last August in a field that hadn't been plowed in over a decade, maybe mowed every few years. Very rough and un even soil surface. We did the peas on one side of the field and brassica blend on the other side.. both plots grew much better than I expected. Not perfect, but probably atleast 50% germination out of the peas and more like 75% germ. Out of brassicas. This plot was rolled 3 or 4 times after broadcasting in several directions. I was impressed.

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[growalot]

I have a hard enough time keeping the crows, grackles and turkey from digging up my planted seed...I believe they line the plots watching me,stinking thieves...I can't imagine if too many were left on the surface...The turkeys would be the first to alert the others by going in, scratching and picking...the rest would swarm...not to mention the rodents woodchucks ...ahhh those cute little bunnies and bass turd raccoons...

[LET EM GROW]

Found that out the hard way last year with my field corn. Everytime I planted it they either pulled the seed or pulled the sprout to eat the seed. Think I got like 11 stalks of corn to grow finally lol.

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[growalot]

Ohhh ya.... this is what 100#'s of seed corn disced gets me, has nothing to do with germination it germinates great...between wire worms and critters ...I'm lucky 100#'s on  a half acre yields this...It's why I plant after turkey season ends...don't want to be accused of baiting ..lol   I'll never pay more than $8 a 50# bag to plant corn around here unless I had a planter..even my sweet corn I plant in rows by hand get hit hard they walk up the rows digging the seed out...replanted my sweet corn 3x's last year and that was behind fencing..I finally put bird netting over it.   hhhmmmm something is up with that drive can't access those pictures right now...Anyways a great stand and lots of cobs ,but it is hammered before it gets big enough not to yank out of the ground...one year a whole field had 4in tall seedlings yanked and left on the surface...It was a busy day for them...

[Buckmaster7600]

Found that out the hard way last year with my field corn. Everytime I planted it they either pulled the seed or pulled the sprout to eat the seed. Think I got like 11 stalks of corn to grow finally lol.

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Have your ground ready and as soon as you see the farmers planting corn plant yours. If you're late or early they will destroy it.


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[chas0218]

I will be using an old drag behind my 4 wheeler it doesn't give you the flattest ground but works up the ground enough. I want to get a 3 bottom plow, 50hp tractor and a big disc but I have to settle with the wheeler for now.

Edited March 17, 2017 by chas0218

[LET EM GROW]

Have your ground ready and as soon as you see the farmers planting corn plant yours. If you're late or early they will destroy it.


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Thats my problem is that there is basically zero corn planted in my area. Lol there was 1 field In corn , I planted 2 weeks afterwards.

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[sailinghudson25]

gredients in here's a cultivator you can get for free.  Buy it for 175, separate and sell each for 100, keep the 25 for gas money.

https://rochester.craigslist.org/grd/6031634670.html

I'm surprised about the neglected land no till.

 

I have seen no till done on recently turned ph corrected soil.  Usually seed, then mow, then roll.

 

To keep weeds in control, I prep the soil, then scratch it up a week later to kill fresh weed sprouts' delicate roots.  Turn it a touch then seed and mix it with a pass then roll.

What I'm hearing with some seeds is to delay fertilizing.  Like 2 weeks after seeding.  I never did this, has anyone did it.

Or lightly fertilize then add later.

This seem to be with plants who fis their own nitrogen.  Like vetch and clover.

[TACC]

Thanks for the info regarding the minerals. I see what you are saying but I interpreted it as soil minerals, not as being used as a salt block or attractant for the deer.

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[Reszelj]

• Hey everyone...new to this forum and site as well as this thread.  

Does anyone have any seed recommendation for a first year seed plot?  Looking to plant early summer for bow season. Any favorite seed that seems to work and grow well? 

Any help is appreciated.

Justin

[LET EM GROW]

Do your soil test and see what would work best, but you can't beat a brassica blend with grains and clovers mixed in.

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[sailinghudson25]

Reszelj,

It depends.  What was there, how bad was the ph, what's in the area.

Deer will come to some rhings, but they like fresh.  

I mostly do a clover cereal grain mix.  Some things need a good frost to turn to sugar.

I main mix,  forage feast from plotspike, tractor supply sells it.  A bit of everything.  2 bags of 6-24-24 per 1/2 acre, bate minimum 10 bags of lime per 1/2 acre unless ph is above low 7's.  I've always seen 6.0 to 6.5. 6.0 is common.

With that lime, I mix in 1 package of borax soap.

 

I seed then mix it in down to 1 inch,  then put 2lbs per 1/2 acre of ladino clover.

Mow monthly, put 1 bag of 6-24-24, 2 bags of lime, and a 2lbs of borax soap each spring or fall.

Each February buy a 1 or 2 lb of clover to frost seed.

Ain't perfect but great result with low maintenance.  

Maybe overseed some oats April 1st if you turkey hunt.

After about 3 years it gets weedy, but deer visit it just as much.  Maybe till and reseed or spray with roundup.  I'm hesitant to spray.

I also spot weed wack specific weedy spots.

 

Early bow....  hunt downwind of plot and not in it.  Bucks sniff does daytime and maybe eat there an hour after dark or like 2am.  Sometimes when they sense westher coming, they might sneak in during dusk.

I used a 1 row disc towed behind a lawn mower with mean tires.  Used it to mow too.  Got a 32hp kubota tractor and a 4wd atv now.

 

[growalot]

Ok.. I do need to say something about the boron addition (borax soap) There is a fine line between helpful and toxic. So PLEASE read up on this and only a comprehensive soil test will tell you what's needed. Not all micro nutrients are equal...READ!