Question about home foundation.

[Bionic]

Hey guys, odd topic, but I was curious if any of you have fixed up a foundation before on a home.  My homes foundation is in good shape, but it has like a thin podge layer, that is starting to seperate off the blocks.  I want to recoat that.  I am a DIYer, but do realize sometimes jobs are better to hire for, due to time,  and skill, etc.  Is this just a normal coat of concrete, or morter that gets coated over the block? Any input for me? I am going to start researching online,  but always like opinions from those who have experience,  and are not out to take my money.  Thanks.

Also, possibly might add stone to it, not sure though honestly.  I know with stone indoors, I added this mesh, and a skim coat of mortar with a serrated trowel....I imagine it is the same process for exterior. 

 

Edited September 7, 2018 by Bionic

[Hunter007]

7 minutes ago, Bionic said:

Hey guys, odd topic, but I was curious if any of you have fixed up a foundation before on a home.  My homes foundation is in good shape, but it has like a thin podge layer, that is starting to seperate off the blocks.  I want to recoat that.  I am a DIYer, but do realize sometimes jobs are better to hire for, due to time,  and skill, etc.  Is this just a normal coat of concrete, or morter that gets coated over the block? Any input for me? I am going to start researching online,  but always like opinions from those who have experience,  and are not out to take my money.  Thanks.

Also, possibly might add stone to it, not sure though honestly.  I know with stone indoors, I added this mesh, and a skim coat of mortar with a serrated trowel....I imagine it is the same process for exterior. 

 

Sounds like salt damage but unless you put up pictures would be hard to know for sure .

[Bionic]

Salt damage? Not being a wiseguy, but hows that happen? Its just a layer of concrete over the cinderblocks,  that is coming off in a couple spots.  I will have to take a pic for you.

[Bionic]

House is being restored as we speak, hence the different color logs....

See how it is sort of delaminating?

[Hunter007]

1 minute ago, Bionic said:

Salt damage? Not being a wiseguy, but hows that happen? Its just a layer of concrete over the cinderblocks,  that is coming off in a couple spots.  I will have to take a pic for you.

Unless you take a picture It would be hard to tell the most common thing that makes concrete come apart is salt from driveways or water moisture freezing  that got  between the concrete and the wall 

[Bionic]

2 minutes ago, Storm914 said:

Unless you take a picture It would be hard to tell the most common thing that makes concrete come apart is salt from driveways or water moisture freezing  that got  between the concrete and the wall 

Oh I see.  No salt placed on my driveway, if that helps you.  Pics posted.  I would like to recoat it, to take care of it.

[Dom]

Parging is easy as it looks.A trip to Lowes/homedepot all you will need is some masonary sand and some portland mixed with water and mixed until semi smooth trowel on.I would remove all loose materials and recoat entire foundation.Also roof gutters will help 

[moog5050]

Cool log home Bionic.   I would love to retire to a log home with a few hundred acres. 

[Bionic]

8 minutes ago, Dom said:

Parging is easy as it looks.A trip to Lowes/homedepot all you will need is some masonary sand and some portland mixed with water and mixed until semi smooth trowel on.I would remove all loose materials and recoat entire foundation.Also roof gutters will help 

Ah Parging, not podging lol.

Thank you for the info, gutters are actually on my to-add list.  That is a project, I can absolutely handle.  I really appreciate the info.

[Dinsdale]

7 minutes ago, Dom said:

A trip to Lowes/homedepot 

Go to a real masonry supply and you can get additives that will help with bonding. Also mason sand that box stores sell is crap with poorly screened material.

[Bionic]

2 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

Cool log home Bionic.   I would love to retire to a log home with a few hundred acres. 

Thank you Moog! I appreciate that, a lot.  It's been a work in progress in making it my own, but then, what home is ever done.  I hear that! I would love to buy the 80ish acre chunk out back.  The owner knows it too.  I asked her to never die! 

[Bionic]

16 minutes ago, Dinsdale said:

Go to a real masonry supply and you can get additives that will help with bonding. Also mason sand that box stores sell is crap with poorly screened material.

Thanks Dinsdale.  

[Dinsdale]

Just a suggestion;

If you re parge after removing the old stuff; seal the top edge where it meets the plate with an elastomeric caulk like Sika Flex or similar. Water intrusion is a problem there, and will get behind the new surface, freeze, and expand. Quality material will result is a longer lasting job. 

Renting a demo hammer and a wide blade chisel often called a "scaling chisel" makes short work of prepping a fresh surface. 

[Bionic]

15 minutes ago, Dinsdale said:

Just a suggestion;

If you re parge after removing the old stuff; seal the top edge where it meets the plate with an elastomeric caulk like Sika Flex or similar. Water intrusion is a problem there, and will get behind the new surface, freeze, and expand. Quality material will result is a longer lasting job. 

Renting a demo hammer and a wide blade chisel often called a "scaling chisel" makes short work of prepping a fresh surface. 

I have similar caulk on its way for the checks in the logs actually, so I know what your talking about.  So, remove all the parge, and start fresh?  I really do need to get some big gutters up.  That is great info, and very helpful,  I really appreciate it.  

[Bionic]

Dinsdale, if I wanted to add stone, would I add a wire mesh type screen like I did inside my house, etc? Or when adding this parge do you make the mixture firm enough for stone?  Or am I completely off here, and its and entirely different process? 

Also, do they sell a dye for adding to this parge? This way, you can avoid painting the foundation? 

 

[Dinsdale]

Easiest first, yes you can dye a parge mix. Need to do a careful measured mix to be consistent, that includes dampness of mason sand being used. Doing up to natural changes in foundation will help that, ie from corner to front steps or corner to a window hiding next batch line under the window.

Yes I would spall off all the old surface, judging by pics it'll come off in sheets. Scratching up block won't hurt it and will give fresh surface. Wash and apply bonding agent.

Adding stone...

Real or cultured?

Cultured is thin and light. I would say much easier for home owner type installation. Do a good job on prep and yes, you could add later. Now if the substrate block has issues, soft, cracked structurally , yes I would most likely add mesh. Corners are expensive, but stupid easy.

Real stone? Need to add ledger, steel with appropriate fasteners. I'd feel better with mesh fastened to wall for a home owner job. Does it need it, not if working correct; but this is why I almost always regret answering these threads; I must be bored tonight. All kinds of skill levels out there and opinions. My brother the engineer thinks I don't know shit after 30 years of custom home building any dummy can do it; the chimney he flashed on his roof leaks, the one I did? Not so much(my SIL told me this, LOL) There a bunch of work in real stone corners depending on pattern to make it look decent. Shitty is always easy and quick.

 Either case a decent flashing detail or cap has to be thought of at top edge where you meet the bottom log. I don't like relying on caulk for that, the surface is too wide and full of potential fissures, so I'd be inclined to come up with a copper flashing with some pitch detail or a stone cap but lots on linear inches to deal with there and you pay by the inch for rocking/flaming edges. 

Edited September 8, 2018 by Dinsdale

[helmut in the bush]

16 minutes ago, Dinsdale said:

Easiest first, yes you can dye a parge mix. Need to do a careful measured mix to be consistent, that includes dampness of mason sand being used. Doing up to natural changes in foundation will help that, ie from corner to front steps or corner to a window hiding next batch line under the window.

Yes I would spall off all the old surface, judging by pics it'll come off in sheets. Scratching up block won't hurt it and will give fresh surface. Wash and apply bonding agent.

Adding stone...

Real or cultured?

Cultured is thin and light. I would say much easier for home owner type installation. Do a good job on prep and yes, you could add later. Now if the substrate block has issues, soft, cracked structurally , yes I would most likely add mesh. Corners are expensive, but stupid easy.

Real stone? Need to add ledger, steel with appropriate fasteners. I'd feel better with mesh fastened to wall for a home owner job. Does it need it, not if working correct; but this is why I almost always regret answering these threads; I must be bored tonight. All kinds of skill levels out there and opinions. My brother the engineer thinks I don't know shit after 30 years of custom home building any dummy can do it; the chimney he flashed on his roof leaks, the one I did? Not so much(my SIL told me this, LOL) There a bunch of work in real stone corners depending on pattern to make it look decent. Shitty is always easy and quick.

 Either case a decent flashing detail or cap has to be thought of at top edge where you meet the bottom log. I don't like relying on caulk for that, the surface is too wide and full of potential fissures, so I'd be inclined to come up with a copper flashing with some pitch detail or a stone cap but lots on linear inches to deal with there and you pay by the inch for rocking/flaming edges. 

This is all solid information 

[Bionic]

10 minutes ago, Dinsdale said:

Easiest first, yes you can dye a parge mix. Need to do a careful measured mix to be consistent, that includes dampness of mason sand being used. Doing up to natural changes in foundation will help that, ie from corner to front steps or corner to a window hiding next batch line under the window.

Yes I would spall off all the old surface, judging by pics it'll come off in sheets. Scratching up block won't hurt it and will give fresh surface. Wash and apply bonding agent.

Adding stone...

Real or cultured?

Cultured is thin and light. I would say much easier for home owner type installation. Do a good job on prep and yes, you could add later. Now if the substrate block has issues, soft, cracked structurally , yes I would most likely add mesh. Corners are expensive, but stupid easy.

Real stone? Need to add ledger, steel with appropriate fasteners. I'd feel better with mesh fastened to wall for a home owner job. Does it need it, not if working correct; but this is why I almost always regret answering these threads; I must be bored tonight. All kinds of skill levels out there and opinions. My brother the engineer thinks I don't know shit after 30 years of custom home building any dummy can do it; the chimney he flashed on his roof leaks, the one I did? Not so much(my SIL told me this, LOL) There a bunch of work in real stone corners depending on pattern to make it look decent. Shitty is always easy and quick.

 Either case a decent flashing detail or cap has to be thought of at top edge where you meet the bottom log. I don't like relying on caulk for that, the surface is too wide and full of potential fissures, so I'd be inclined to come up with a copper flashing with some pitch detail or a stone cap but lots on linear inches to deal with there and you pay by the inch for rocking/flaming edges. 

Yeah, i see what you mean by dying, unless i premixed 500 gallons of concrete, it will be tough to perfectly color match,  bad idea for a picky guy.  This is exactly why I ask around...

For stone, probably fake stone that looks real.  Its really just a thought at this point.  I did a wall in my home, inbetween the post beams, I installed, it took forever, because it was my first ever stone project. Pic added.

I know what you mean, at work we added a stone cap where it met the cedar impressions, you need that overhang, is what you are getting at, to cover that seem.

With stone, with the amount of surface area, of a foundation, I would end up hiring for that, by the time the complete the job, I would be only starting to mix the concrete.   Sometimes the time saved by hiring, is worth it in my opinion.

Thanks for the post!

[tommyc50]

2 hours ago, Bionic said:

House is being restored as we speak, hence the different color logs....

See how it is sort of delaminating?

that's not bad ,do it yourself. Skim coat w/ mortar mix and then hit the whole foundation w/ thoroseal. Get the good one . I gutted my basement now my house was built in 1925 so the ciderblock in the basement  was breaking away the mortar  joints were good so I chipped away all the loose stuff and filled [it was bad] and skim coated w/ mortar mix then hit it w/ thoroseal it took like 10 gals this was 10 yrs ago and then they were going for like $80 in homedepot

[Bionic]

2 minutes ago, tommyc50 said:

that's not bad ,do it yourself. Skim coat w/ mortar mix and then hit the whole foundation w/ thoroseal. Get the good one . I gutted my basement now my house was built in 1925 so the ciderblock in the basement  was breaking away the mortar  joints were good so I chipped away all the loose stuff and filled [it was bad] and skim coated w/ mortar mix then hit it w/ thoroseal it took like 10 gals this was 10 yrs ago and then they were going for like $80 in homedepot

I agree, its just started to delaminate, I want to fix it prior to it getting out of hand.

I will have to look into the thoroseal too.

Thank you for the input, i really appreciate it. 

[Bionic]

Thanks everyone,  I learned a lot of good tips here!

[moog5050]

8 hours ago, Bionic said:

Yeah, i see what you mean by dying, unless i premixed 500 gallons of concrete, it will be tough to perfectly color match,  bad idea for a picky guy.  This is exactly why I ask around...

For stone, probably fake stone that looks real.  Its really just a thought at this point.  I did a wall in my home, inbetween the post beams, I installed, it took forever, because it was my first ever stone project. Pic added.

I know what you mean, at work we added a stone cap where it met the cedar impressions, you need that overhang, is what you are getting at, to cover that seem.

With stone, with the amount of surface area, of a foundation, I would end up hiring for that, by the time the complete the job, I would be only starting to mix the concrete.   Sometimes the time saved by hiring, is worth it in my opinion.

Thanks for the post!

Cool walls too Bionic.  I like your style. 

[MPHunter]

Just a suggestion;
If you re parge after removing the old stuff; seal the top edge where it meets the plate with an elastomeric caulk like Sika Flex or similar. Water intrusion is a problem there, and will get behind the new surface, freeze, and expand. Quality material will result is a longer lasting job. 
Renting a demo hammer and a wide blade chisel often called a "scaling chisel" makes short work of prepping a fresh surface. 

What Dinsdale said. Plus look for a bonding agent admixture to add to your mortar mix. Also, make sure to wet the CMU so it is damp before applying the parge. It will help with the bond and ensure the block doesn't suck the water out of parge.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Bionic]

30 minutes ago, MPHunter said:

What Dinsdale said. Plus look for a bonding agent admixture to add to your mortar mix. Also, make sure to wet the CMU so it is damp before applying the parge. It will help with the bond and ensure the block doesn't suck the water out of parge.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Thats exactly what I did with the blocks on t gf at wall I did.  I used that coffee can with water, and I wet the wall, then the block before buttering the block with mortar.  Thank you for the tip, its a good reminder.