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Wild Apple Tree Rehab


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Anyone planning on doing work improving your Wild Apple Trees this spring. Did some cutting of the excess branches last year. Saw some improvement this fall. But more work is needed. Anyone using fertilzer sticks at the base? Any success. I found one good standing tree in a "field" of mine but it has alot of invasive brush and tree's growing through it. Which I plan on removing in March. I can't seem to find another one in the immediate area. Shouldn't there be more to promote growth?

PS.These tree's are so amazing. Practically dead and on the ground yet still producing apples.

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I've pruned wild apples for years, my recomendation is to work on the ones the deer prefer, i did a lot of work pruning one behind my barn and fert it with 10-10-10 only to find nothing eats its apples!! they fall and rot away. while 40 yards another one i did work on will have deer standing on their hind feet to get to an apple. you can prune apples all winter and it makes good browse for winter food. just don't remove to much to fast it may take a few years to get a tree to where you want it. too fast will shock and kill a overstressed tree. one in shape just pruning suckers will promote greater yields. In my own orchard it sounds wierd but hitting the trunk and main limbs in spring with a rolled up newspaper also causes stress same as pruning resulting in greater yields.

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"Wild" apple trees will undoubtedly benefit from pruning. Many also must be "released" from the shade provided by nearby trees. Apple trees need sun to produce. Go easy on the fertilizer...apply it along the drip line, not at the base of the tree. Remember, too, that bees and wind can carry pollen a long way. Your lone tree may not really be alone!

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General pruning guide: Cut off any branches growing straight up...Where productive branches cross, remove one...Remove those small sprouts, except for those you hope turn into productive branches, filling empty spacees...You can remove up to 25% of the tree's branch mass without hurting the tree or production.

When I first planted my apple trees, I fertilized them a lot, and regularly. I grew a bumper crop of branches and leaves. When I dramatically reduced fertilizing or stopped it altogether, my apple production went up substantially. Now, I fertilize trees when I plant them...and then do not fertilize them for several years...maybe not at all, unless I suspect they need it. For a "rescued" wild tree, I would fertilize the first year and then let it go several more before fertilizing again. (Note: Use fertilizer spikes made for apple trees.)

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I've got 5 trees to prune. They have been let go for years. Some are 40 feet high I bet. Is there any way to lower the height without destroying the tree or is it best to just trim some lower growth and let the top go. Most of the production is on the upper branches. They are filled with blossoms each year but set only maybe 5 % fruit. Also, don't want to overload the tree with fruit as I'm sure, not the strongest. The lower main branches are maybe 12 inches in diameter off the trunk. Their the type of apple, the deer stand on their hind legs for the fruit. I do have some experience prunning dwarf orchard trees.

Edited by landtracdeerhunter
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Slightly off topic, but my wife planted some "granny smith" apple seeds from some store-bought apples, and sure enough she has some 1" high seedlings started. They're growing like a weed. So I just may have some free apple trees to plant pretty soon. Not exactly rehabilitation, but there may be a few new apple trees in my hunting area that weren't there before.

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Prune apple trees in late feb early march then spray with some type of dormant oil right before they are about to bloom. That will kill most of the insects and fungus. I have been doing that to all my trees since I purchased my property 5 years ago and last year I had tons of apples.

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Do not expect Granny Smith apples from those seedlings. The original Grannies were hybrids...offspring may be whatever. I have raised a couple of trees from seeds...just call them "mystery apples"

That'll be interesting to see what they turn out to be. That's too bad ...... I do like those Grannies. But then I already got two of them out in my orchard so that's probably more apples than we can eat anyway. Mystery apples ...... I like that .....lol.

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Protect those seedlings. I planted some outside a few years ago from transplant seed, about 6" tall when set out.( Mac apple) Set chicken wire around them. staking it to the ground. Well, the rabbits,or maybe mice, got to them nice salad, thanks guy. Next time, i'm planting salad bowl for them, lol.

Edited by landtracdeerhunter
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I raised a seedling from the best MacIntosh I ever ate. Mystery apples that came several years later are red on the side that faces the afternoon sun...yellowish green on the other side. They are delicious, with a taste all their own.

Note: Mice do great damage to young apple trees. Chicken wire won't work against them....use plastic trunk wrap. (This is why many orchard owners won't allow fox hunting on their property. They like those "mousers"!

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Pruning the trees works well know where and what brances help.

I have 6 trees that I try to keep the spread wider and lower .better

access to fruit I use a mixture of 10-10-10.in the spring and spikes

around june.Biggest thing for me i can cover my trees in winter because

they are dwarf trees spread wider ave is 8 to 10 ft high about 20 ft around

a canvas cover works great. in a heavy snow fall winter i fence them in.Its

the way I have done it for yrs alot of work but great results.By the way

I don't hunt my groves they are strictly for attacting and nutritional set-

ups.But the deer I watch in late sept and oct are gratifying.Oh one

more thing I have 6 Bartlett pear trees side by side and they do love

then too.

Edited by hb270deermanager
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