wildcat junkie

By all means, stop the count immediately. That give Bidden Arizona and Nevada, 270 electoral votes. Be careful what you wish for!

I have a big backyard. There are stakes marking 25 yds, 50 yds, 100 yds and 200 yds. I have a movable target stand. The cardboard is removable, ni fasteners are used to secure it.

That is another thing I have know since the begining.

I knew this during his campaignn in 2016.

I once jarred the reticle loose on a Leupold 1-4 scope shooting slugs through a .665 turkey choke!

Actually, those are the "original" (mass produced) Razorheads. The screw in inserts are removable and they can then be used as a direct gue on. IMO they are the best cut on contact head ever devised. This is my personal stash. I refurbish the ones that are discolored from heat by bead blasting them and using VHT "cast iron" engine paint. As far as the bleeder blades? Yes Fred made a broadhead W/O the insert and later developed one that use Schick razor blades It was the addition of the insert blade that brought the trademark name "Razorhead". The 1st" Bear Razorheads were known as "bubble head" as the ferrule was turned. It was found that this impeded penetration so the flattened ferrule was introduced.

I bought a 5mm RF Magnum when they 1st came out. I think it was the summer '73. It was very accurate despite the 5#+ factory trigger. Back around 2000, I came across the Schroeder CF conversion. I bought the kit which consisted of a bolt head with a true CF firing pin located down the center of the bolt, a set o0f RCBS Dies and 100 cases formed from 22 Hornet brass. 100 loads ro a pound of powder, bullets can be had for less than $13 per 100 if you watch and then the cost of small rifle primers. Less than $20 to reload 100 rds. Loaded with a stout charge of Alliant 2400 (6.8gr) topped with a Hornady 33 gr V Max bullets it cranks out 2400 fps. Retains as much energy at 175 yds as the 17HMR has at the muzzle. (V Max is on the left) Shoots +or - 1 1/2" out to 200 yds when zeroed at 175 yds. 100 yd group; 200 yd group; Makes a satisfying "smack" when that V Max encounters a Hoary Marott ut to 200 yds or so. I did a stone job on the engagement surfaces and replaced the sear spring with a hardware store item. I got it down to a crisp clean break at 2 1/2#. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=467194

This might be a bit off topic but the picture below was taken on the last day of 1966, December 31, 1966 and I too was 16 years old. My hunting buddy Dave Keamerer is on the right, I'm on the left. The shotgun in the center is one of the original H&R M48 "Topper" shotguns, probably from the late '40s/early '50s.. It had a design flaw in that the notched pin that the fore-end snapped onto was just a round pin brazed into a shallow recess in the bottom of the barrel, no support was provided as the later designs had. The pin had become bent and partially dislodged. That is why the stranded nylon tape is wrapped around the fore-end. There was no structural support of the action except when it was opened and allowed to drop down as the ejector was activated. It was in all other ways superior as it had a coil mainspring, American Black Walnut stock and all machined parts. Later models were "cheapened up" and no longer had the same features. We took that gun and shared it because where we were hunting was in the South suburbs of Chicago. There were large swaths of prairie left undeveloped between blocks of subdivision. We were not sure if we were violating any local ordinances or not, so we did not want to risk having our better shotguns confiscated. Plus, we could run faster if we needed to make a hasty exit. We had hunted the area before trying to jump shoot the Cottontails with little success. The Cottontails would sneak out if the thick Pussywillow thicket ahead of us. We seldom even caught a glimpse. That day we employed a post and drive technique and we really slayed the bunnies. They made easy targets as they sneaked out at a slow run ahead of the person acting as the dog. It only took a bit over an hour for us to kill our combined limit of 10 rabbits. Most of them were head shot. The 16ga H&R had a very right choke as was usual in guns of the era that it was built. EDIT: I just did a bit of research and the "I" prefix of the serial number indicates that the gun was manufactured in 1948

It's a stripper too!

Model 1898 Springfield 30/40 Krag built in 1899, bought by my father in 1958 for $12. Probably "sporterized" sometime in the late 1920s early 1930s. I restored it over about 2 years from 2015 to 2017. I used a 1970s style Bishop semi inletted stock complete with Monte Carlo cheek piece, grip cap and while outline spacers. There was enough wood to get the original contour of the cut down military stock. The only "improvement" over the way it was when Dad bought it was the addition of a Pacific K-2 receiver sight that uses the magazine cutoff hole for a no alteration installation. I got lucky and found one on Ebay. It has a slow rust blue finish on the metal and Minwax Antique Oil Finish on the wood. I killed a decent buck with it in 2015 at 120 paces taking him straight in through the windpipe/spine. The slow rust blue process. I finished it in October of 2017.

Oberdorf "Classic" 8 x 57IS VZ500 intermediate length LR 98 action circa 1960 (commercial version of M48 Yugo) with trigger bow custom contoured.K98 military Barrel custom contoured and crowned, Timney Sportsman trigger, 3-position M70 style safety, slow rust blue metal finish with niter color accents. Oberndorf classic stock with Niedner buttplate and grip cap. Minwax Antique Oil Finish 200 gr .323 Speer Hot Cor bullet at 2730 fps

My "big hammer" 8mm-06 Ackley Improved. J.P Sauer & Sone K98 action circa 1943, M98/29 barrel cut and crowned to 26", custom contoured and rechambered to 8mm-06 A.I. 1904 Portuguese Vergueiro bottom metal with trigger bow custom contoured and locking screw holes welded up. Timney Sportsman trigger, 3-position M70 type safety. Slow rust blue finish on the metal. Quarter sawn black walnut stock with 1" Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad and Minwax Antique Oil Finish. 200 gr .323 Speer Hot Cor bullet at 2900 fps. 8 X 57IS on the left, 8mm-06 A.I. on the right.

After nearly 15 years of faithful companionship, I had to put my beloved Max down last August. He was just shy of being 16 years old. If a man has the opportunity to have one great dog on his life, he should count himself as very fortunate. Max was a one in a million dug. The following two images were taken in the winter of 2005/2006. Max was about 2 years old. The following was taken in 2009. I met this guy on huntingny forum. He brought his 14 year old son up from Loweville for his first bird hunt. They were missing birds at first. I explained to them that they had to shoot where the bird would be, not where it was when they shot. They soon got their act together and had a successful hunt. They paid to have 8 birds released. we had about 12 flushes and they got 7.

I killed 5 out if one den over the course of a week or so last summer. CZ 452 American with a Weaver Classic 6 - 24 X 42 A.O.

Since I want to be able to leave my target stand at the shooting bench and there is no shelter, I wanted to be able to R&R the cardboard without having to use any tools. The cardboard is secured with some stout spring clamps at the top. I am contemplating making some sort of hinged affair at the top to better distribute the clamping force across the cardboard. I used my table saw ro cut a rabbet groove at the bottom.. I got lucky and the gap is just right to securely grip the cardboard yet allow easy enough insertion

" Conjugal" visits.

I'm Looking for pictures and descriptions of any homemade reloading or gunsmithing related tools you may have conjured up. Stuck case puller; While the above method will certainly work, the drawback with it is that it will disturb the the depth setting of the sizing die in the press. If you are like me, you adjust the die depth so that only the neck is sized and and the shoulder is just bumped by the die. I have made a stuck case puller with very little cash outlay that only requires some tools that the average DIYer should have on hand. Material; 1 ea 1/8" X 1/4" bell reducer 1 ea. 1/8" MIP nipple of any length (you will only use a short potion of one threaded end) 1 ea 1/4" X 20 socket head cap screw with at least 1 1/2" of thread (you may need to use a die to cut additional threads) 1 ea 1/4" flat washer 1 ea 1/4' X 20 nut Tools; 1/4"X 20 tap #7 drill bit (a 3/16" but will probably work since we are working with a soft metal) Optional - 1/4" X 20 die in case more threads need to be cut on the bolt 3/16" Allan Wrench 7/16" open end wrench (if you're using a hex head machine screw you will need an additional 7/16" wrench) Hack saw Mill file Making the tool; screw the 1/8" pipe nipple snuggly into the small end of the bell reducer, (I used some loctite to lock the pieces together, but this is optional) Cut the nipple off nearly flush and carefully file the surface flat and square, deburr the I D Screw the nut all the way onto whatever threads are on the screw, place a washer on the bolt and insert it into the modified bell reducer. You should have at least 1/4" of thread extending beyond the large end if the bell reducer. If not, you will need to cut additional threads onto the shank of the screw. Prepping the stuck case and removing the stuck case; Note that the rim has been pulled off of this case by the shellholder when trying to extract it from the die in the press. Back off the lock nut on the decapping pin/expander button adjustment on the die and remove the decapping pin/expander button. DO NOT ALLOW THE BIT TO ENTER THE CASE ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY TO DRILL OUT THE PRIMER POCKET. Be careful to drill the hole as square to the C/L of the case as possible. You can use the bell reducer as a somewhat accurate gauge for this, keeping in mind that the hole in the bell reducer will be slightly oversize for the bit. Keep it centered. Again using the bell reduce as a guide, tap the hole you just drilled in the primer pocket with 1/4" X 20 threads. Placing the bell reducer over the base of the die, screw the threads into the tapped case making sure you get at least 3/8" of thread engagement. With the die secured in a padded vice, hold the head of the screw with the appropriate tool and take you 7/16" wrench and screw the nut down against the shoulder of the bell reducer until the stuck case comes free. I leave the case screwed onto the threads to keep the tool as a one piece unit when stored. Cartridge optimal OAL Gauge; Usually, the best inherent accuracy is achieved when the ogive of the bullet is within .010" to .015" from contacting the lands of the rifling in the chamber throat. Sometimes that is not possible due to a long throat such as in many older military rifles that may have been originally loaded with bullets that we don't want to employ. This tool requires very little cash outlay and the components needed should be available at any well stocked hardware store. First of all, you will need a pair of set screw applied collars with an I.D, that will slide over whatever you are using as a ramrod. You can get them at Fastenal, but any old school neighborhood hardware store should have them. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/3381469 Slide the stop collars over the ramrod all the way up to the handle. Next, you will need a fired case for the rifle you are gauging as well as a spring that is just a bit shorter than the inside dept of the fired case. You will also need examples of any bullets you are planning on using. You want the spring short enough to allow the bullet to enter the case neck, but long enough to put significant pressure on the base of the bullet when the cartridge is chambered. The spring needs to be rather stiff. You will need something with a flat end and a solid center screwed into the end of your ramrod. An 8x32 screw with the end filed flat will work with most ramrods. I had one of those, but misplaced it. I am using an old base from a now defunct bore brush. Next, with the bolt closed and the striker cocked, push the ramrod all the way in until it contacts the bolt face. Push both stop collars against the muzzle while making sure the ramrod is still in contact with the bolt face.Tighten the set screw on the stop collar closest to the handle the ramrod. Now, open the bolt and insert the case/spring/bullet into the chamber and close the bolt. You should be able to feel the spring tension as you push the ramrod against the chambered gauge assembly. With the ramrod just contacting the nose of the bullet, slide the stop collar closest to the muzzle against the muzzle and tighten the set screw. You must work by feel here, hence the need for a stiff spring to keep the bullet jammed against the lands of the rifling as you set your gauge. Now all you need to do is measure the gap between the stop collars. These measurements are with 2 different bullets. With the Speer 2042 170 gr Hotcor bullet,that gap measures 3.200" However, with the 160 gr Hornady FTX 30396 bullet designed for the 308 Marlin Express that gap has increased to 3.285" Normally on tries to achieve a minimal gap of .010" ro .015", but in this case, bullet shank seating depth, and more importantly, the maximum COAL that will function through the magazine limits that length to 3.150". That being the case, the "jump to the lands" with the 170 gr Speer Hotcor bullet will be .050" while the longer, more "pointy" Hornady bullet will have a much longer jump to the lands of .135" I would expect the Speer bullet to have more inherent accuracy. I plan to christen my MY NEW SHOOTING BENCH while testing these bullets for accuracy in my Dad's 30/40 Krag.

I have 2 pieces of 4 x 4 that are 26" long. I'm going to design and make a movable target stand to set at whatever yardage I plan to shoot. The weight of the 4 X 4s should make it stable in any wind conditions I am likely to be shooting under Probably build it tomorrow.

It has been hard to understand how an incredible romance that lasted 25 years went to hell in 6 months then languished for 7 years, ultimately ending in divorce.. I'm at the acceptance stage of grieving now.

Raisonettes that were left on the sun too long?

Since I am "sheltering i place", I have started doing some projects that I have had on the back burner. I started this project last October when a young man that I look at as my adopted son gave me some 4 X 4s and used deck boards from the deck he was demolishing. He also gave me almost all of the fasteners required and he has a gallon of cedar colored oil based penetrating stain for me. I will wait until warmer, dryer weather to stain the project. Most of the deck boards and 4 X 4s were cut back in October when depression over my 33 year marriage ending in divorce caused a lack of motivation to do much of anything. The only items I needed to purchase for the bench at this time where some hardware items for the seat, an 8' 2 X 10 and an 8' 2 X 4. I also purchased 4 ea 6" Timberlok Screws, three 8' landscape timbers and 2 bags of wood mulch for the base. I already had 1 bag of mulch and a 100' x 4' roll of landscape fabric. I started the project in my kitchen, later moving to the deck. The 2 X 10 seats are pivoted at the front on a 3/8" X 4" lag bolt. I fashioned a stop out of a 3/8" X 2" carriage bolt, a washer and a 3/8"coupling nut. It stops against a wood block glued and screwed the the farme under the seat.The seats pivot to allow a comfortable shooting position for shooters of different body types. The deck is 36" above the base and the seats are 18". This allows a rather upright shooting position that makes it easier to attain a skeletal support hold. Then, I sunk and leveled a 42" X 84" frame made with landscape timbers. placed a triple layer of landscape fabric under the frame and filled the center level with the top of the frame with compacted wood mulch. The bench was then set on top of the frame and tagged down with some 3" deck screws. All set up and ready to go. I shot this image through the Leupold VXi 3 4 1/2 X 10 scope on 10 X The vertical crosshair is centered on the 200 yard stake and you can see the 100 yard stake in the low spot with the 50 yard and 25 yard stakes in the foreground. All totaled I have about $75 in this project. If I had to buy everything new I would have 3-4 times that in it.

While the above method will certainly work, the drawback with it is that it will disturb the the depth setting of the sizing die in the press. If you are like me, you adjust the die depth so that only the neck is sized and and the shoulder is just bumped by the die. I have made a stuck case puller with very little cash outlay that only requires some tools that the average DIYer should have on hand. Material; 1 ea 1/8" X 1/4" bell reducer 1 ea. 1/8" MIP nipple of any length (you will only use a short potion of one threaded end) 1 ea 1/4" X 20 socket head cap screw with at least 1 1/2" of thread (you may need to use a die to cut additional threads) 1 ea 1/4" flat washer 1 ea 1/4' X 20 nut Tools; 1/4"X 20 tap #7 drill bit (a 3/16" but will probably work since we are working with a soft metal) Optional - 1/4" X 20 die in case more threads need to be cut on the bolt 3/16" Allan Wrench 7/16" open end wrench (if you're using a hex head machine screw you will need an additional 7/16" wrench) Hack saw Mill file Making the tool; screw the 1/8" pipe nipple snuggly into the small end of the bell reducer, (I used some loctite to lock the pieces together, but this is optional) Cut the nipple off nearly flush and carefully file the surface flat and square, deburr the I D Screw the nut all the way onto whatever threads are on the screw, place a washer on the bolt and insert it into the modified bell reducer. You should have at least 1/4" of thread extending beyond the large end if the bell reducer. If not, you will need to cut additional threads onto the shank of the screw. Prepping the stuck case and removing the stuck case; Note that the rim has been pulled off of this case by the shellholder when trying to extract it from the die in the press. Back off the lock nut on the decapping pin/expander button adjustment on the die and remove the decapping pin/expander button. DO NOT ALLOW THE BIT TO ENTER THE CASE ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY TO DRILL OUT THE PRIMER POCKET. Be careful to drill the hole as square to the C/L of the case as possible. You can use the bell reducer as a somewhat accurate gauge for this, keeping in mind that the hole in the bell reducer will be slightly oversize for the bit. Keep it centered. Again using the bell reduce as a guide, tap the hole you just drilled in the primer pocket with 1/4" X 20 threads. Placing the bell reducer over the base of the die, screw the threads into the tapped case making sure you get at least 3/8" of thread engagement. With the die secured in a padded vice, hold the head of the screw with the appropriate tool and take you 7/16" wrench and screw the nut down against the shoulder of the bell reducer until the stuck case comes free. I leave the case screwed onto the threads to keep the tool as a one piece unit when stored. Use the same method for lubing the case necks. I also coat the outside to the neck and shoulder to gauge the amount of resizing I'm doing when I first set up the die depth. Here is what that looks like in practice.

Well, I found one a year younger! This is my date for Thanksgiving dinner at the neighbor's. She is flying in from Cape Town South Africa where she is on assignment on the 26th. She lives in Ottawa, and she thinks I'm "an amazing man".. Did I get lucky or what?

Big weight loss this week! 7# weight loss this week, 126.2# total weight loss in 38 weeks, 3.3# average per week. 215#.