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Arrow length/weight help


blackradio
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Hey guys, I started bowhunting last season with an old Bear with 55lb draw weight and 30" pull. I use Carbon Express 250gr arrows with it with 125gr broadheads. It shot fine for me. I just bought a Mathews Switchback XT and am looking for new arrows under around $60 for 6. It has a 28"DL and I'll set the DW between 65 and 70lbs. So at the minimum, i need a 325 grain arrow. So what length should I get them cut to? Also, how do I determine the spine of an arrow? I was reading about Goldtip 7795 and they seem like a good arrow. I was shooting 125gr muzzy broadheads with the my last setup but I was thinking of shooting 100gr this year for a bit more speed. Thanks!

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Look on any of the charts on what ever manufacturers web site and it will help you. As far as lenght of arrow if you can draw back with one of your old arrows and have a pal mark it about 1 inch in front of where it makes contact with the rest. Just remember the charts are mostly set up for a 28 in draw as it is the most common. If you really want to read up on arrow selection I will look up a thread on here that has a link to a good read.

A heavier tip will weaken the spine, so a 100 gr tip should be ok for you no matter what. I prefer to have a heavier spine, I shoot 29in draw, 30 in arrow and CX piledriver 450's and a 75 gr tip. This year I plan on adding some 100 grainer's to see what happens.

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Before you invest in any new arrows, I'd take the bow to an archery shop.

You need to find what your draw length is, not the bows!

Should be able to adjust the Mathews or possible buy a new module to bring bow to your DL.

I would think it would be difficult going from a 30 to a 28 draw length.

Arrows - Everyone has their own personal preference. Their is NO magic arrow for all shooters!

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As said before check the draw length with the bow you are going to use at the time,There is a difference how an older bow and the newer bows Draw.Arrows are normaly cut an inch or an inch and a half longer then your draw length.

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I am a 28" draw length. I made do with the 30" because the bow was give to me and didn't bother changing it. I know arrow brands are personal preference, but I'm looking for the right weight/spine/length

I failed to mention I also shoot 70 pounds, you might be ok with a mid sized arrow but you will for sure be ok wilth a heavy one. Look for a spine of .300 to .320

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Blackradio

May I suggest you read my tutorial at this link.

http://huntingny.com/forums/topic/5030-how-i-built-my-arrows/

I'm not saying it's gospel but it has worked well for me. If you are going to set your arrows up for hunting, do it right the first time. Then you will know a formula for all your future arrows as well. Just a suggestion.

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How did you figure out the draw? Did you go to a pro shop and have it measured?

Here is the chart from GoldTip.

http://www.goldtip.com/arrowcontent.aspx?page=chart

Do not guess, buy the correct arrow for your setup. Arrow manufacturer and model are personal preference, spine, length, weight and FOC are most important.

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I shot a friend's 28" draw length on the same bow and it felt perfect. I didn't get it professionally measured. So if I get the arrows cut at 29" and keep it 65-70lb then I should be shooting 7595. I'm wondering if I should shoot 100grns or if it's too stiff to shoot those. Thanks fellas.

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I would really suggest getting measured and having the draw legth set to your exact draw length. It will make a world of difference, and draw modules are cheap. I guarantee that if you have always shot a bow with the wrong draw length, then you probably dont know what it should ideally feel like. Your form may be suffering as well. Once you have that done, have your arrows cut to the correct length for your setup.

The difference between a good setup and a great setup is that everything is set and tuned properly.

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This is not an attempt to criticize in any way just to help. Correct me any time. I am reading you have a bow with a draw length of 30 inches. You are figuring your draw length aproximately 28 inches right? If this is the case you are sacrificing the potential of the bows performance and yours as well. Not only will you never reach the back wall on draw but a steady anchor point along with a few other factors. The very first thing you should do is seek out a pro shop and have them work with you on getting your draw setup properly. Atleast around here you wouldnt even get charged for this, and for there time and effort to get you setup right purchase the arrows through them and any additional recomendations like correct modules. Arrows will be the biggest expense and broadheads. You will be amazed at how much better the bow will feel in your hands and your shooting will improve as well. If you are going to hunt with this you owe it to the game to be as best you can with our setup and accuracy. Bad shots happen but bad shots from lack of proper setup is not good. There are a ton of emotions that run through your body when you decide to draw back on a deer. Remembering you have to stop before being at full draw on an overdrawn bow so your arrow doesnt fall off the rest is just one thing that shouldnt be on your mind. Good luck and be safe.

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This probably won't make sense to a few of you but , I have a Ben Pearsn TX-4 . It has a draw length of 28" and has a short brace height . The grip sits back in the riser and I shoot 27 1/4" arrows . I cannot shoot the same arrows from my Parker Phoenix EZ Draw which is also a 28" draw bow due to the different design .

My arrows weigh 435 grains . I prefer this over a lighter faster arrow . I would rather hear a "thwap" than a "blip" ! B) :cool:

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I'll let the guys address the arrows and say this...if your just starting out...I'll assume your young That said....consider keeping your draw weight down...70's is really not needed and lowering the weight will extend the years you'll be able to hunt with a vertical bow

Ditto - I would have no problem drawing 80lbs but i opt for 65. You would be supprised what clothes, fatigue, and the cold will do to you.

I would really suggest getting measured and having the draw legth set to your exact draw length. It will make a world of difference, and draw modules are cheap. I guarantee that if you have always shot a bow with the wrong draw length, then you probably dont know what it should ideally feel like. Your form may be suffering as well. Once you have that done, have your arrows cut to the correct length for your setup.

The difference between a good setup and a great setup is that everything is set and tuned properly.

Get measured and i would read as much as possible before continuing.

This site has some good info (although i just checked and they don't have everything they used to) Unfortunately there arrow selection tutorial isn't working.

Hunters Friend

A few things i have learned in my short bow hunting career.

Longer brace height = accuracy. I would rather have a slower more accurate bow than a fast twitchy one.

Speed is not the holy grail, accuracy is.

Weight is your friend especially when you contact bone.

Mechanicals and fixed blades both kill deer (although you will need to pull more weight for a mechanical to work properly).

Speed, arrows, broadheads, sights, gadgets, doodads etc. etc. wont make up for bad shot placement.

I shoot a 65 pound setup with a heavy weight forward arrow and 125 grain cut on contact broad-heads. I don't really care how fast the bow is but i will tell you this - its accurate.

Just my two cents.

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good idea to go with the 7795 & 125 grain head

as other have said be mindful of your draw weight, cold, clothes and early in the morning makes for weak muscles. I always shot a 70# bow hell i used to mess around on the target with my buddys 80 pound bow (mind you i'm 155lbs), however one chilly october morning i went to draw back on a doe, guess what? i struggled to pull it back

now i shoot 63# and it's comfortable all day long

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My arrows weigh 435 grains . I prefer this over a lighter faster arrow . I would rather hear a "thwap" than a "blip" ! B) :cool:

Agree with Eddie here. Heavier arrow... a little slower... more KE and better penetration. I have never been so pleased since I properly forward weighted my arrows as I am now. You can hear them whack the target and they just sink deeper than lighter arrows. I was shooting a 400 total arrow weight including a 100 gr Montec G5. I now am shooting an arrow at 465gr total arrow weight pulling 58 lbs. My 18 yo son has a total arrow weight of 450gr and pulling 60lbs.

Not boasting here just illustrating a point. When I killed my buck last year from the ground it was about a 40-42 yds shot, basically flat but slightly uphill.

The arrow penetrated the left side of the chest breaking the rib... pierced the heart.... and broke the right leg below the shoulder and exited the right side. It did not pass through and exit but the fletching was sticking out of the left chest about 4 inches. Thats with a 58 lb bow. I'm certain that with a 350 grain arrow it would not have done this much damage.

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Thanks again for the info fellas. So I finally shot it today. Put the whisker biscuit on and borrowed a few arrows from a friend and it shoots a few inches high and to the left at 20 yards. The third set I busted my buddy's arrow when I hit the end of one arrow with the second arrow. Damn, now I owe him an arrow. I think I'll get the arrows cut at 29" to give it a little more flex and because I don't like having the broadhead behind my hand. The draw weight is very comfortable where it is, probably early-mid 60's and I'll probably leave it right there. On the gold tip chart, that gives me 5575 or 7595. I figure if I go with the 7595 which weigh 295 grain, and use a 125 grain BH, plus inserts, it'll weight right around 450 grains.

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Sounds good blackradio, if your shooting a 28" DL & 29" arrow & 64-65lb your best bet is to go with the 7595 with a 100gr head, a 125 gr head just lessens the stiffness of your spine. 29" arrow 64lbs and 100 gr head you should tune perfect

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