How to remove top layer of growth?

[greenecounty]

I have a 2 acre unused field that I am planning on making into a food plot but I dont know how to get rid of the 4-5 inches of THICK matted grassy material that has grown on top.  I am afraid of planting anything without getting rid of this.

 

Do I disc it or do I bulldozer it?

[MACHINIST]

First spray i with weed killer,be preppared to do this 2-3 times if the veg is thick.I like to brush hog first then go in a few days later and spray the place.Once the veg is dead it makes discing or tilling way easier

[WesternNY]

You could also if you have the implements, bushhog it as low as you can, and plow it all under then disc.

 

I would plow as soon as you have mowed and put the thatch into the soil.   What are you planting?

 

 

[mike rossi]

Do some research on "No-till" farming. Here is an article we just published, it is not 100% relevant to what you are doing, but it is a starting point to understand no till methods.

http://nydovehunting.weebly.com/future-land-use-changes-will-increase-dove-populations.html

 

Actually, watch this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWXCLVCJWTU

Edited June 22, 2014 by mike rossi

[mike rossi]

Do some research on "No-till" farming. Here is an article we just published, it is not 100% relevant to what you are doing, but it is a starting point to understand no till methods.

http://nydovehunting.weebly.com/future-land-use-changes-will-increase-dove-populations.html

 

Actually, watch this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWXCLVCJWTU

 

That wasn't the right video, this other video describes a roller that flattens vegetation, usually planted cover crop mixtures, but it should also work with the vegetation in a natural fallow field.  This is no-till planting, and without use of herbicides in the "termination" process. Since it works for heavy mats of cover-crop mixtures or tall rye, ect... it should also work in a dense natural fallow field, Sorry for the mix up, here is the correct video:

http://youtu.be/PW4mwVJPS9A

 

The first video I posted is still  relevant to your question - it describes how planting in that thatch will actually improve the growth / yield and has other benefits to the soil, etc... So, don't be afraid to plant into this layer, your food plot will grow better, the possible exception being if you plant a small-seeded plant because it might not be able to come up through the thatch. I believe the first video pre-dates the second and it is before the roller was invented, The farmers in the first video used a variety of improvised rollers, but in conjunction with herbicide. The roller  makes the use of herbicide unnecessary to "terminate" the cover crop. Herbicide costs money and is bad for the environment.

 

If you must use a small seed planting, burning the thatch will also return nutrients to the soil and regenerate native plants, but I suspect the laws in NY make that impossible or very difficult.

 

If you are going to till the field, do not do so until the fall and hold off planting until the spring. This will allow the tilled-in plant material to decompose. Although decomposed plants do indeed add nutrients to the soil,  when decomposition occurs under the soil and at the same time your plants are growing, it robs nitrogen from the soil. Since you indicate you have 5 inches of thatch, which is pretty hard to believe, before fall tillage you should probably mow/hay or graze the field once or twice. Don't take my word for this, I may be wrong, talk to the Natural Resource Conservation Service in your area, they provide technical information about farming to the public for free, they have an office in every county. I would be interested in hearing what they tell you!

Edited June 23, 2014 by mike rossi

[Pygmy]

Sounds like you are dealing with SOD...

It needs to be plowed and then disced and/or dragged. Bulldozing would scrape off much of your precious loam/topsoil.

[landtracdeerhunter]

I cut and bale all my fields before I choose which ones to work. All that is left are an inch or two of stems.

[mike rossi]

Sounds like you are dealing with SOD...

It needs to be plowed and then disced and/or dragged. Bulldozing would scrape off much of your precious loam/topsoil.

I re-read what he posted, it does sound like sod. I would still try to drill the seed in rather than till. Did he edit the post or have I lost my mind, thought he said a layer of thatch... Oh well, time for a nap...

[Pygmy]

 

I re-read what he posted, it does sound like sod. I would still try to drill the seed in rather than till. Did he edit the post or have I lost my mind, thought he said a layer of thatch... Oh well, time for a nap...

Yeah, Mike...I was picturing a field that had laid fallow and had not been worked in many years.

The first food plot I ever put in was a field that had not been worked in at least 50 years...The sod was about 5 or 6 inches thick, and my old Ford 8N really had to GRUNT to pull a plow through it..

I couldn't imagine planting anything without turning over and chopping up that carpet of grass, roots, etc.

However, my farming experience is old school.. I admit that I am ignorant of modern no till practices...

[mike rossi]

 

Yeah, Mike...I was picturing a field that had laid fallow and had not been worked in many years.

The first food plot I ever put in was a field that had not been worked in at least 50 years...The sod was about 5 or 6 inches thick, and my old Ford 8N really had to GRUNT to pull a plow through it..

I couldn't imagine planting anything without turning over and chopping up that carpet of grass, roots, etc.

However, my farming experience is old school.. I admit that I am ignorant of modern no till practices...

 

If the soil is compacted, it will inhibit root spread and size, but that can be dealt with. Breaking the ground (tilling) is one way, but I think there are other ways... Native plants are great food plots anyway, maybe don't plant anything, just mow native vegetation yearly or bi-yearly so it doesn't turn into woodland... Or graze it...

[G-Man]

personally i'd plow a 5 tf firebreak around it and burn it... then spray new growth and plant...

[Culvercreek hunt club]

I have a 2 acre unused field that I am planning on making into a food plot but I dont know how to get rid of the 4-5 inches of THICK matted grassy material that has grown on top.  I am afraid of planting anything without getting rid of this.

 

Do I disc it or do I bulldozer it?

any idea what is actually growing in that field right now?

[mike rossi]

He needs to get the county extension office to test for compaction after some rain with a penetrometer. If the compaction is 1 inch or less no till is the best option, if the compaction is more use minimal surface tillage, not full till. Use a higher seeding rate and plant 1.5 to 1.75 inches deep.

[greenecounty]

any idea what is actually growing in that field right now?

 

sorry for the delay - there is just wild grass in the field right now thats a semi-swamp 

 

ive dug a trench to divert the water and that works but there is a good 6 inches of grass/moss/root carpet

[dbHunterNY]

Spray it then mow then spray again in the fall. It'll break down. Then disc it in the fall. Then frost seed it this spring. Plowing will work but then you'll need to pick the rocks out that you pulled up. Unless you don't have rocks where it is.

[growalot]

I know ppl like to plow ...lord I have a 2 bottom I've never used because ppl said a disc would not do....go through some of my pics and see if thats true....Anyhow before you go plowing anything under you need to find out what you are on...see what plowing does is turns the sod and top soil over...but done too deep in the wrong soil it could cause you major rock problems...not that discing too deep won't ...and it could also displace good top soil wth not so good subsoils and weed seed...It also depends on what you want to plant........ much of what plotters plant...just doesn't require a deep plowing.......so dig a good deep hole here and there and see what type of soil layers you have..Also...if you want to plant perennials consider the time and $$$ it will cost to keep weed growth under control the first 3 years....

Edited July 22, 2014 by growalot