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Tughill Tamer
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I have the Leupold VX-1 on my Savage Axis 7mm/08. For the money, it is perfect for deer hunting. It's clear even in low light and as said above, you can see detail easily at 100 yards. For under $200 I think it is one of the best scopes you can buy.

I forgot all about the VX1. Excellent scope, right in the OP's price range.

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Look around....

 

Leupold VX3 are discontinued in favor of the new VX3i.

 

The new "i" is supposed to retail about $100 less....yes less....than the older model as Leupold claims eliminating some versions will reduce price across the board.

 

 

1....I think the "i" designation is stupid; as other major manufacturers use that to signify illuminated reticles.

 

2...they already outsourced glass to Asia and the scuttle at SHOT was they found a cheaper maker for grinding lenses. And we all now cheaper is better and you never get what you pay for.

 

 

They had a $100 rebate on the old models through 12/31 last year (already received one) and I think if you shop around you will find old inventory at reduced pricing. (Camerland had some inventory listed the past several weeks)

 

you got your rebate back already? I mailed mine out in november and I'm still waiting. I will second looking around. I've never seen good day to day deals on cabelas or bass pro. You need to really scour the net. opticsplanet, ebay, midway, sportsmansguide. Their warranty and customer service is second to none.

 

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I want to reiterate that nikons are not bad scopes. But a comparably priced leupold is just better in my opinion. I have a nikon on my cva. The day rifle switched to muzzleloader I took it into the woods and was really amazed at how much better my vx3 looked than my bdc. Now those 2 scopes aren't even in the same ballpark as price and I've dropped several dear with my cva. One at 22 minutes past sunset (leagal in MS)... but the vx2 or vx3 is where it's at.

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I want to reiterate that nikons are not bad scopes. But a comparably priced leupold is just better in my opinion. I have a nikon on my cva. The day rifle switched to muzzleloader I took it into the woods and was really amazed at how much better my vx3 looked than my bdc. Now those 2 scopes aren't even in the same ballpark as price and I've dropped several dear with my cva. One at 22 minutes past sunset (leagal in MS)... but the vx2 or vx3 is where it's at.

As far as I can tell from the spec's, the VX-2 & VX-3 have the same optical coatings & blackened edge lenses. The VX-3 has more features that are not important to me.

 

If it were me I would spend the extra $100 for the VX-2 over the VX-1, but the OP wants a scope in the $200 range & the VX-1 is all most hunters will ever need.

 

As far as Vortex? They offer nothing in warranty service over Leupold & the Vortex scopes in that price range are 100% Chinese made. I have worked with a Vortex Diamondback while helping someone at the range & the quality doesn't seem to be on a par with Luepolds in the price range. I was not impressed with the lack of positive feel for the windage/elevation "click" adjustments of the Vortex.

 

Why buy a Chinese product when an American made product is just as good & possibly better & it has the same service reputation?

Edited by wildcat junkie
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Back in the late seventies and early eighties I worked in a friend of mine's sporting goods store. During that time we sold hundreds and hundreds of scopes of all brands that were popular back then and would mount them on the customer's gun for free.

 

If they had any problems like fogging, lens cracking, crosshairs failing and adjustments that stopped working we would take care of it, boxing them up and sending them back to the factory for repair or replacement. By the way fogging was probably the number one issue we had. I can tell you most problems happen in the field when the scope was needed most and I heard about a lot of scope horror stories.

 

Back in them days we mounted a lot of scopes on slug guns for deer hunters and they could and would do a number on any scope because of the severe recoil. Anyhow out of all the scopes we sent back and there were quite a few we only had one Leupold incident and it was because the front lens loosened slightly and by the way replaced at no charge.

 

Al

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Back in them days we mounted a lot of scopes on slug guns for deer hunters and they could and would do a number on any scope because of the severe recoil. Anyhow out of all the scopes we sent back and there were quite a few we only had one Leupold incident and it was because the front lens loosened slightly and by the way replaced at no charge.

 

Al

 

I have only had 1 failure W/a Luepold.

 

I had inadvertently shot 3" magnum slugs through my M870 Express W/the .655 turkey choke in the barrel. Recoil was horrendous & it loosened the reticle in my 1-4 x 20 VX-II.

 

Total time for the shipping, repair & return of the scope was 7 days.

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As far as I can tell from the spec's, the VX-2 & VX-3 have the same optical coatings & blackened edge lenses. The VX-3 has more features that are not important to me.

 

If it were me I would spend the extra $100 for the VX-2 over the VX-1, but the OP wants a scope in the $200 range & the VX-1 is all most hunters will ever need.

 

As far as Vortex? They offer nothing in warranty service over Leupold & the Vortex scopes in that price range are 100% Chinese made. I have worked with a Vortex Diamondback while helping someone at the range & the quality doesn't seem to be on a par with Luepolds in the price range. I was not impressed with the lack of positive feel for the windage/elevation "click" adjustments of the Vortex.

 

Why buy a Chinese product when an American made product is just as good & possibly better & it has the same service reputation?

I have had to deal with warranty work on a Leupold and a Vortex. both were handled but the Vortex experience was faster and that equaled better in my book. 

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VX-II and the pro staff are about the same clarity wise I have looked thru both side by side and I can't tell the difference. My buddy has an older VX-III and it is a little clearer but at that point you are just splitting hairs. The Prostaff for the money is a good scope and I'm not sure but I don't think the VX-I or VX-II have the BDC style reticle and that is worth its weight in gold. At least in my hunting situations I have used it. Also the objective size is the only thing that will allow you to see better in low light situations. Bigger Objective more light. You won't be able to tell the difference between 40mm and 42mm.

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VX-II and the pro staff are about the same clarity wise I have looked thru both side by side and I can't tell the difference. My buddy has an older VX-III and it is a little clearer but at that point you are just splitting hairs. The Prostaff for the money is a good scope and I'm not sure but I don't think the VX-I or VX-II have the BDC style reticle and that is worth its weight in gold. At least in my hunting situations I have used it. Also the objective size is the only thing that will allow you to see better in low light situations. Bigger Objective more light. You won't be able to tell the difference between 40mm and 42mm.

 

The BDC reticle to me, is too clustered with all those little circles. I prefer the Duplex reticle on the Leupold or the Nikoplex from Nikon. My hunting rifle is hold center body from 20 to 250 yards.  I just like to keep it all simple, like me.  :rolleyes:

Edited by grampy
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Thanks for all the great info here guys it has helped me alot with coming to a conclusion.I have also spent the last few days reading alot of reports and reviews on the net and think I'm going to go with the leupold vx1 it seems like for the money you can't beat it. I have read over 200 reviews on this scope and only found 2 bad reviews.The only consistent minor complaint was that the adjustment turrents do not have a pronounced click as much as some scopes do on the quarter inch turn and that's not a huge deal to me and wasn't to them either overall they got great reviews.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

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VX-II and the pro staff are about the same clarity wise I have looked thru both side by side and I can't tell the difference. My buddy has an older VX-III and it is a little clearer but at that point you are just splitting hairs. The Prostaff for the money is a good scope and I'm not sure but I don't think the VX-I or VX-II have the BDC style reticle and that is worth its weight in gold. At least in my hunting situations I have used it. Also the objective size is the only thing that will allow you to see better in low light situations. Bigger Objective more light. You won't be able to tell the difference between 40mm and 42mm.

For the average shooter with a 9 x magnification an objective lenses bigger than 45mm will only be added weight as the human eye can't admit the added light transmitted by the larger exit pupil. That being the case, there will be no noticeable difference in brightness between a 9 x scope with a 50mm objective lens & a 40mm OL.

 

The BDC reticle to me, is too clustered with all those little circles. I prefer the Duplex reticle on the Leupold or the Nikoplex from Nikon. My hunting rifle is hold center body from 20 to 250 yards.  I just like to keep it all simple, like me.  :rolleyes:

Sight your 7mm-08 about 2 3/4" high at 100yds & you can extend that range to 300yds Grampy.

 

......K I S S....

 

For the shooting that most of us do within 400 yards, all that junk just confuses things...

 

Beyond that range, I don't care...

^^^^X2^^^^

 

I run all of my loads across a chronograph. I can then enter the Mv & the BC of the bullet into "QuickTarget" with the height of the LOS above the bore (usually around 1.6") & the maximum value above or below the LOS for the trajectory.(typically3")

 

The program will then give me the 100 yds zero, the point at which the bullet is 3" above LOS, the distance at which the bullet crosses LOS & the distance where the bullet is 3" below LOS. It will also give the trajectory at whatever yardage increments you specify out to whatever distance you specify.

 

Typically, a medium caliber, medium weight spitzer bullet traveling between 2700 & 3000 fps W/3" maximum above/below LOS trajectory the 100 Yd zero is between 2 1/2" & 2 3/4", the maximum distance above LOS is around 150 yds & the distance for 3" low is 275 to 310 yds depending on Mv & BC.

 

Anyone that uses factory MV for some sort of super duper range estimating reticle is fooling themselves as the factory Mv can be way off, as can load Mv from load data in reloading manuals.

 

If you know what the gap subtends (sp?) @ 100yds, a simple Duplex or Niplex reticle, can be used to estimate the distance of an animal using the average distance from brisket to whithers if that animal. On the other hand, if you now the distance you can use the same information to estimate the size of the animal from brisket to whithers.

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you got your rebate back already? I mailed mine out in november and I'm still waiting. 

I filed mine using the on-line option and received a tracking number.

 

They sent an email notification about 2 1/2 weeks ago they were sending rebate, and it came last Friday.

 

Bought scope later December I think?

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All I own for scopes are Leupold.  I've sent a few in over the years, heck as recently as yesterday!  I mailed them an old varix II 2x7c scope I've had for years.  The power ring is just about impossible to turn now so off it went........lets see how quick it gets back.

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......K I S S....

 

For the shooting that most of us do within 400 yards, all that junk just confuses things...

 

Beyond that range, I don't care...

I agree but I sight in for 100 yards because most of my shots are 100 or less. Now saying that I have taken deer deer at 355 yards and 420ish (rangefinder was bouncing 420 to 425.) Without the BDC I would have never hit those deer. You would be surprised how much that bullet drops after 200 yards. Could I eliminate the BDC and just target my gun in for 200/250 and aim a little high? of course but the problem I have then anything 50 yards or less is 6"+ high.

 

This was all with my tikka t3 in .270 winchester.  Granted if you were shooting something a lot hotter (.300 win. mag. or something larger) you wouldn't have to worry about it but I don't use artillary to shoot deer and what fun is it if you don't miss once and a while.

 

To each their own but once you get used to shooting a gun with specific equipment a certain way it is 2nd nature and all muscle memory.

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I agree but I sight in for 100 yards because most of my shots are 100 or less. Now saying that I have taken deer deer at 355 yards and 420ish (rangefinder was bouncing 420 to 425.) Without the BDC I would have never hit those deer. You would be surprised how much that bullet drops after 200 yards. Could I eliminate the BDC and just target my gun in for 200/250 and aim a little high? of course but the problem I have then anything 50 yards or less is 6"+ high.

 

That is not correct. sighted in at 250yds your 270 will be about 1" high at 50 yds & even less @ shorter distances. The trajectory would max out @ 3" high somewhere around 150 yds & would be 3" low around 300yds. You must understand that, depending on your rings, the trajectory starts out 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" below LOS @ the muzzle.

 

This was all with my tikka t3 in .270 winchester.  Granted if you were shooting something a lot hotter (.300 win. mag. or something larger) you wouldn't have to worry about it but I don't use artillary to shoot deer and what fun is it if you don't miss once and a while.

 

To each their own but once you get used to shooting a gun with specific equipment a certain way it is 2nd nature and all muscle memory.

 

I don't understand why hunters with medium velocity CF rifles still sight in at 100yd zero. If you sight in 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" high at 100yds you can have a + or - 3" trajectory out to 270-300 yards. A deer's vitals are about 9" in diameter a hit anywhere in that 9" circle will result in a quick humane kill. W/a + or - 3" maximum point blank range you would hit in that circle W/a center POA to beyond 270-300yds & could hold" on hair" to 400 yards or more.

 

The trajectory is a parabola & it will cross the LOS 2 x no matter where you sight in. Sighting in 2 1/2" high at 100yds will have the bullet cross the LOS at somewhere around 25 & again at about 240 yards depending on Mv & BC.. W/a 100yd zero those values will be something like 60 & 100yds, hitting as much as 15" low @ 300yds

 

My 8 x 57 W/200gr Hotcore (not a very high BC) @ 2730 fps Mv sighted in 2 3/4" high @ 100yds will cross the LOS + 1/10" @ 25yds, - 1/10" @ 230yds. It will top out @ +3" from 120 to 145yds & hit 3 2/10" low @ 270yds.

 

Something like a 7mm-08 W/140gr Ballistic tips would have a similar + or - 3" PBR sighted in 2 1/2" high @100yds closer to 300yds.

 

The point is, you will not miss a deer @ close range sighted in 2/12" high @ 100yds & if you happen into a chance @ a good buck that is across a meadow or on the next ridge of a power line 300yds away you won't have to guess hold over.

 

Anyone that knows their actual Mv & the bullet used can give me that information W/the height above the bore that their scope is (low medium or high rings). I can plot out your 100yds zero for + or - any trajectory value you want. For deer the usual is 3", for Elk perhaps 4" to 5".

Edited by wildcat junkie
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I understand that but if I were to sight in that high at 100 yards then it would be another 2"+ at 50 yards or less. I have on numerous occasions had shots in the 30yard range. Although for a rifle it is a chip shot but I would need to aim under the deer and in the heat of the moment one might forget that. I like to be able to put my crosshairs on the animal where I intended to shoot it. I hunt my bow stands with my rifle and deer are generally within 50 yards. Like I mentioned there are always exceptions. 

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I understand that but if I were to sight in that high at 100 yards then it would be another 2"+ at 50 yards or less. I have on numerous occasions had shots in the 30yard range. Although for a rifle it is a chip shot but I would need to aim under the deer and in the heat of the moment one might forget that. I like to be able to put my crosshairs on the animal where I intended to shoot it. I hunt my bow stands with my rifle and deer are generally within 50 yards. Like I mentioned there are always exceptions. 

Are you saying that you believe that sighting in 2 1/2" high at 100 would make you 4 1/2" high at 50?

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I understand that but if I were to sight in that high at 100 yards then it would be another 2"+ at 50 yards or less. I have on numerous occasions had shots in the 30yard range. Although for a rifle it is a chip shot but I would need to aim under the deer and in the heat of the moment one might forget that. I like to be able to put my crosshairs on the animal where I intended to shoot it. I hunt my bow stands with my rifle and deer are generally within 50 yards. Like I mentioned there are always exceptions. 

 

No it would not because the bullet it still on an upward trajectory. It does not reach the maximum trajectory until about 150yds.

 

The bullet starts out 1 1/2" low (below the centerline of you scope).@ the muzzle crosses the LOS about 30 yds & will top out 3" high  @ about 150 yds.

 

I am trying to find a way to post the trajectory chart for a 130gr .277 Ballistic Tip @ 3100 fps, scope 1.6" above the bore center-line, maximum plus or minus 3" trajectory. I have run the calcs but need to figure how to post the page.

 

Hang on for a few minutes.

Edited by wildcat junkie
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Here is the best I can do unless someone can tell me how to past a sceenshot direct.

 

2016-02-05%203_zpst3fltzbp.png

 

The vertical axis is distroted to fit 420 yda into the graph.

 

Bullet starts out 1.6" below the LOS (center-line of the sight axis)

 

At 50yds it is 1/10" high

At 100yds is is 2 1/2" high

At 150yds it is 3" high

At 261yds it is ZERO

At 306yds it is 3" low

At 420yds it is 16" low

 

On your 420 yard shot you would have held about 1/3 the distance from brisket to whithers above the back of the deer for a center of vitals hit.

Edited by wildcat junkie
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