Kitchen floor help

[diplomat019]

We are getting new tiles installed.  I was planning on rippig up the old floor mysef to save some money.  First time doing this.   So there is the floor boards over the joists (am i explaiing that right).   Then it looks like they had the original plywood and whatever flooring they had.  And it looks like they put newer plywood and linoleum on top of that secured by glue and nails.  My question is.  Should i remove all the way down the the floor boards or just the first layer of plywood?    Thanks. 

[bugsNbows]

If the subfloor (on top of the joists) is fine, I'd leave it. However, it all depends on your desired finished floor height and how it compares to any contiguous floor abutments. 

[diplomat019]

The subfloor on top seems in good condition. It just has some dried up the glue on it. Leaving the first layer of subfloor would be fine as far as finished height.  I started removing part of the top layer last night but it's just been a pain. I've been cutting the floor into small sections and prying it up. Does that sound about right?

[airedale]

If the old flooring was in not too bad of shape I would go right over the top with a laminate flooring.

Al

[Culvercreek hunt club]

when you say you are getting "new tiles" installed, what type of "tiles" are you getting put down?

[diplomat019]

Ceramic tiles. 

 

We got a quote from the installers for the removal of the old floor   I might just have them do it because my free time is limited.       i started removing some floor last night but i got other stuff that needs to be dona as well   

 

[Culvercreek hunt club]

13 minutes ago, diplomat019 said:

Ceramic tiles. 

 

We got a quote from the installers for the removal of the old floor   I might just have them do it because my free time is limited.       i started removing some floor last night but i got other stuff that needs to be dona as well   

 

Honestly, since it is ceramic I would have them do the underlayment. Make them be responsible for it. Might avoid adders like flash patching to level and true it up. Big tiles or small?  

The bigger the tile the truer and  stiffer it all needs to be. (cue Pygmy...lol)

 

Edited June 20, 2017 by Culvercreek hunt club

[philoshop]

The sub-floor you have is solid wood, and structural, so it would be best to keep it intact unless there is rot somewhere. A good tile guy will probably remove any underlayment such as luaun anyway, so don't beat yourself up with the adhesives and whatnot. Scraping off that junk is not fun.

Get down to the sub-floor (the diagonal boards under everything) and hire a decent tile guy to install the right backer-board and tile. Best of luck, and keep us posted.

[The_Real_TCIII]

25 minutes ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

Honestly, since it is ceramic I would have them do the underlayment. Make them be responsible for it. Might avoid adders like flash patching to level and true it up. Big tiles or small?  

The bigger the tile the truer and  stiffer it all needs to be. (cue Pygmy...lol)

 

I second this. Id be surprised if theyd lay tile on a subfloor they didnt prepare themselves

[diplomat019]

Got the tile guys ripping the old stuff out and laying new subfloor.  Pics to come when its done.  Thanks for the replies!

[reeltime]

good choice,  when doing tile you have got to have a solid base. I will not tile over substandard base, if there is any movement at all the grout and eventually the tiles will come loose and or crack.

the old motto of "we do it nice cause we do it twice" is not the right motto when your a contractor. LOL.

 

[BizCT]

Can I hijack this?

Between 2 of my bathroom tiles the grout is missing. Can I simply just add grout to the empty spots? Of course I need to match the color. None of the tiles are loose so I don't want to go down the road of resetting them or anything. Simple just want to fill groutless spots.


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[Culvercreek hunt club]

26 minutes ago, Biz-R-OWorld said:

Can I hijack this?

Between 2 of my bathroom tiles the grout is missing. Can I simply just add grout to the empty spots? Of course I need to match the color. None of the tiles are loose so I don't want to go down the road of resetting them or anything. Simple just want to fill groutless spots.


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I'd scratch out an almost full depth area and you can regrout. Feathering a little in on top won't hold. 

 

Oh and don't be heart broken if it pops out again. It usually pops for a reason. 

Edited June 20, 2017 by Culvercreek hunt club

[BizCT]

I'd scratch out an almost full depth area and you can regrout. Feathering a little in on top won't hold. 
 
Oh and don't be heart broken if it pops out again. It usually pops for a reason. 

Thx. I'll try to remember to take a pic tonight


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[Culvercreek hunt club]

Well since Diplomat already got his issue solved, let me really derail things...lol. 

Here is a bathroom I just finished. complete gut, It had a 1 piece fiberglass tub shower unit in there. The tile is floor to ceiling. new plumbing, electric. The floor tiles were a biotch. 3' long to look like wood plank. closet was all tiled inside for an open look. 

[BizCT]

Here it is.



Left side is missing the most


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[Culvercreek hunt club]

Here it is.



Left side is missing the most


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Google "grout saw". Clean it up and regrout it. Try to get full depth

[BizCT]

Google "grout saw". Clean it up and regrout it. Try to get full depth

Yea I saw that. But there's literally nothing left in that spot so do I even need to? My wife vacuumed up the loose stuff already she said.
M




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[Culvercreek hunt club]

Yea I saw that. But there's literally nothing left in that spot so do I even need to? My wife vacuumed up the loose stuff already she said.
M




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If the stuff on either end of it is solid, grout it

[BizCT]

If the stuff on either end of it is solid, grout it

Ok, thx. Just that 1 line of the tile since the other 3 sides look perfect still?

I also read matching color grout can be tough

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[reeltime]

I would suggest before regrouting the tile do a tap test on the tiles to see if they are completely adhered to the thinset mortar.

 

the easiest way to explain it is to make a fist with your hand,   start tapping the tiles with your knuckles as if you were knocking on a door.  you should hear a dull solid sound if the tile is fully adhered to the thinset.  If part of the tile is not adhered you will hear a distinct change in tone, if the tile is not fully adhered the grout will crack and come out again and or the tile will eventually crack or pop loose. 

 

[Lawdwaz]

6 hours ago, Biz-R-OWorld said:

Ok, thx. Just that 1 line of the tile since the other 3 sides look perfect still?

I also read matching color grout can be tough

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Rip up the entire floor and replace all.  

Better yet, remodel the bathrooms. Wifey will be happy........

[Culvercreek hunt club]

Ok, thx. Just that 1 line of the tile since the other 3 sides look perfect still?
I also read matching color grout can be tough
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Yup. It is. Chances are it is going to show and not match. Unless the floor is brand new, even if you had the same grout from the same lot number, once it's down and used it isn't going to be perfect. Picture painting a spot on a 5 year old car

[BizCT]

Rip up the entire floor and replace all.  
Better yet, remodel the bathrooms. Wifey will be happy........

Haha no way I'm giving her that idea. It's fairly new.







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[TreeGuy]

I would suggest before regrouting the tile do a tap test on the tiles to see if they are completely adhered to the thinset mortar.
 
the easiest way to explain it is to make a fist with your hand,   start tapping the tiles with your knuckles as if you were knocking on a door.  you should hear a dull solid sound if the tile is fully adhered to the thinset.  If part of the tile is not adhered you will hear a distinct change in tone, if the tile is not fully adhered the grout will crack and come out again and or the tile will eventually crack or pop loose. 
 

Second. Typically speaking there are two reasons grout cracks , 1 is that the floor /tile is loose (most common). Typically if mortar or subfloor is not done correctly the tile will shift and crack the grout. 2 is that the grout was not installed correctly, but if you say it's the only spot I'll have to assume it's #1 meaning the tile is prob loose. This is not a great scenario. Was a concrete board used ? What was thickness of mortar when applied ?

If it was me, and I'd rather bite the bullet than wait and see, I'd remove the grout all the way around that tile and be certain that it's not loose. If it's not pray your new grout isn't miles away in color ( I think you will be fine ) I know some major grout manufacturers even have it in a caulk tube which can be a nice time saver.

I did a job for a friend that got hosed. They had grout cracking in their entryway. Long story short the installer never put enough mortar and tile had no backer board installed under. I tore it all out, did hardi-board and re-installed. Costly and time consuming but necessary. That was a couple years ago... No more cracks.

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