Gun cabinets

[Nomad]

 Consider the cabinet that you assemble in this video for the time being   ,https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/gun-safe-fire-rating/

My friend has a false wall in front of his vault door. His wife’s request as that way nobody knows it’s there, seeing as how an easy way to get in any safe is to put a gun to your or your wife’s head .

[Hunter007]

15 minutes ago, Stay at home Nomad said:

 Consider the cabinet that you assemble in this video for the time being   ,https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/gun-safe-fire-rating/

My friend has a false wall in front of his vault door. His wife’s request as that way nobody knows it’s there, seeing as how an easy way to get in any safe is to put a gun to your or your wife’s head .

Yep best way to secure something is make it disappear. 

If know one knows it is in the house you don't have to worry about it  or how strong it is .

[dbHunterNY]

mine are all in a safe big enough and heavy enough you're not breaking glass to get into it and you're not getting the whole thing out unless you blow a hole through my house and cherry pick it out with a crane. that said i wished it was bigger. i keep both firearms and important docs in the other side. i think with stand offs, scopes, bolts, accessories, hand guns on hanging racks, etc. a safe only really holds half of what it says it does. new house. go big!

[Hunter007]

23 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

mine are all in a safe big enough and heavy enough you're not breaking glass to get into it and you're not getting the whole thing out unless you blow a hole through my house and cherry pick it out with a crane. that said i wished it was bigger. i keep both firearms and important docs in the other side. i think with stand offs, scopes, bolts, accessories, hand guns on hanging racks, etc. a safe only really holds half of what it says it does. new house. go big!

Im know expert but The weak part of most safes is the door hinge anyone with a angle Grinder can cut them open in know time  and there are probably even better ways that professional thieves know of to get into them . 

Hidden is always best .

Edited March 20, 2018 by Storm914

[Culvercreek hunt club]

They even have modular systems out there now. Need a bigger safe and are limited by doorway size?   So pretty unique options out there now. 

[chas0218]

37 minutes ago, Storm914 said:

Im know expert but The weak part of most safes is the door hinge anyone with a angle Grinder can cut them open in know time  and there are probably even better ways that professional thieves know of to get into them . 

Hidden is always best .

Even faster all you need to do is pull the pins through the front of the safe.

 

[chas0218]

Here is a quick video.

 

[steve863]

I wouldn't be surprised that my heirs sell my guns to the first lowest bidder that shows interest in them once they roll me into the ground, so I don't feel the need to do anything special to protect them from fire or theft.  I keep them in a wooden gun cabinet that anyone can honestly break into.  If I lose them so be it.  I'll just buy new ones.  Don't really need too many anyway for the little hunting and shooting I get to do these days.

[moog5050]

10 minutes ago, steve863 said:

I wouldn't be surprised that my heirs sell my guns to the first lowest bidder that shows interest in them once they roll me into the ground, so I don't feel the need to do anything special to protect them from fire or theft.  I keep them in a wooden gun cabinet that anyone can honestly break into.  If I lose them so be it.  I'll just buy new ones.  Don't really need too many anyway for the little hunting and shooting I get to do these days.

Yep - pretty sure someone will get a great deal on my bows and guns someday.  lol

[Culvercreek hunt club]

1 hour ago, chas0218 said:

Here is a quick video.

 

I'd like to see them try the same thing with one bolted to the floor

[Hunter007]

This topic reminds me of a story I heard about this guy who got a brand new 100,000 car and was bragging to his friends how the security system was so great and that it could not be stolen.

So one night he goes out to restaurant parks his car on the street someplace comes back and his car gets stolen by someone with a flat bed tow truck

 

[chas0218]

5 minutes ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

I'd like to see them try the same thing with one bolted to the floor

With the size of the crow bar they use they should be able to pry it off the wall just popping the lags out of the wall and floor. Short of bolting it into concrete or bolting it through a floor with a plate on the other side of the floor it could come down pretty easy. IF you add more holes to your safe and bolt it more you might be okay but all the safes I have seen only have 2 lags at the back and 2 for the floor.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

4 minutes ago, Storm914 said:

This topic reminds me of a story I heard about this guy who got a brand new 100,000 car and was bragging to his friends how the security system was so great and that it could not be stolen.

So one night he goes out to restaurant parks his car on the street someplace comes back and his car gets stolen by someone with a flat bed tow truck

 

When I was workign down in CT around New Haven  Crotch Rockets were getting stolen with their wheels locked. A van would pull  up, the guys would open the side door, swing out an arm with a power cable winch and strap the bike and lift/swing them in. Took seconds. Went on quite a while before they caught them. 

[Hunter007]

1 minute ago, chas0218 said:

With the size of the crow bar they use they should be able to pry it off the wall just popping the lags out of the wall and floor. Short of bolting it into concrete or bolting it through a floor with a plate on the other side of the floor it could come down pretty easy. IF you add more holes to your safe and bolt it more you might be okay but all the safes I have seen only have 2 lags at the back and 2 for the floor.

Just use a hydraulic jack pop it  right off

[Culvercreek hunt club]

2 minutes ago, chas0218 said:

With the size of the crow bar they use they should be able to pry it off the wall just popping the lags out of the wall and floor. Short of bolting it into concrete or bolting it through a floor with a plate on the other side of the floor it could come down pretty easy. IF you add more holes to your safe and bolt it more you might be okay but all the safes I have seen only have 2 lags at the back and 2 for the floor.

1,100 pounds of pull out force for 1/2" lag embedded 3".  EACH. Better get a bigger bar. 

 

[Culvercreek hunt club]

10 minutes ago, Storm914 said:

Just use a hydraulic jack pop it  right off

port-a-power would probably work. 

That's why I said good insurance and don't sweat it...lol

Edited March 20, 2018 by Culvercreek hunt club

[Hunter007]

19 minutes ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

port-a-power would probably work. 

That's why I said good insurance and don't sweat it...lol

That is why I say best Security in your home is to  hide it , hidden walls closets  floors Etc.

 

Edited March 20, 2018 by Storm914

[Dinsdale]

6 hours ago, WNYBuckHunter said:

After looking at some of the safes suggested, with the capacity Im figuring Ill need (not advertised capacity), the prices are nuts. I got to thinking about alternatives and I have a crap load of unused space in my basement that has a cement ceiling. Im thinking cinder block walls and a steel vault door along with some lights, pegboard walls and a dehumidifier just to be safe ought to do it. I can get a vault door for half the price of the safe I would need, or less. With the cement ceiling and floor, it would be far more fireproof than any safe, I can customize everything to each specific gun, and good luck getting in.

Until then I think Ill just get another small cabinet like I have now. They are cheap and I can use them for ammo storage after I build the vault.

FWIW I have my safes(Liberty) in a concrete block reinforced "closet" with a fire rated door that was built after safes were installed. (Yes, I'll have to sell that as part of the building or do the demo to remove them). I have a enough room for door swing on the side.

That adds to fire protection (what I'm mostly concerned about) and it limits access to just the front square on which limits working room for a thief. Most of these videos show guys with bars and they need swing room for leverage. I'm just trying to slow a thief down as most wouldn't spend a day cutting and grinding with alarm going off.

I carry separate insurance from homeowners as I don't even want them knowing what I have and its through SCI, SAIA. Covers all the odds and ends like scopes,binocs,slings etc. They also taxidermy as another service. Eastern Insurance is another popular gun insurance company.

 

[chas0218]

1 hour ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

1,100 pounds of pull out force for 1/2" lag embedded 3".  EACH. Better get a bigger bar. 

 

Other factors will play into the equation as to where you hit the stud and what not. Also it would be better mounted to the wall you could get more leverage on the top and sides. Most people don't mount their safe so the door opens into the room but into a wall.

Another option is on an exterior wall your better off just cutting through the wall with a chainsaw and drop the safe into the back of a truck and screw with it somewhere else. There are tons of what ifs.

Everyone better look into their homeowners if you think your insurance company is going to cover all your guns. Unless you asked for them to cover a specific amount they won't cover much. Our old plan covered $1000 worth of guns. That would replace 2 guns not including glass or anything else.

Edited March 20, 2018 by chas0218

[dbHunterNY]

3 hours ago, Storm914 said:

Im know expert but The weak part of most safes is the door hinge anyone with a angle Grinder can cut them open in know time  and there are probably even better ways that professional thieves know of to get into them . 

Hidden is always best .

the door hinges do absolutely nothing on my safe.  only to let the door swing out of the way. the multiple offset and hidden bolts are what actually keep the door on.  the only way is if your a skilled locksmith and drilling it or maybe cutting torches??  torches would be a bonehead move as you'd probably catch something on fire which would make you leave and defeat the idea of wanting to get into the safe.

[Hunter007]

8 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

the door hinges do absolutely nothing on my safe.  only to let the door swing out of the way. the multiple offset and hidden bolts are what actually keep the door on.  the only way is if your a skilled locksmith and drilling it or maybe cutting torches??  torches would be a bonehead move as you'd probably catch something on fire which would make you leave and defeat the idea of wanting to get into the safe.

With these basic tools  a  drill a angle grinder  , jigsaw  and a hydraulic jack you can pretty much open anything .

using  a hidden  compartment as you first line of protection is safer  then a safe .

What you can't find you can't Steal .

Edited March 20, 2018 by Storm914

[dbHunterNY]

1 hour ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

port-a-power would probably work. 

That's why I said good insurance and don't sweat it...lol

mines not anchored to the pre-existing concrete floor for that reason. can't go over backwards and it'd take a lot to push it over onto its front which wouldn't do you much good though.

[dbHunterNY]

6 minutes ago, Storm914 said:

With these basic tools  a  drill a angle grinder  , jigsaw  and a hydraulic jack you can pretty much open anything .

using  a hidden  compartment as you first line of protection is safer  then a safe .

What you can't find you can't Steal .

i get that it's not impossible. what i'm saying is it's going to take a lot more than what some of you elude to.  shit if you get into it you've earned it.  i'll let insurance take care of the rest.

[dbHunterNY]

2 hours ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

I'd like to see them try the same thing with one bolted to the floor

curiosity got to me and a friend one day. we could barely move mine at all. they pushed that thing over waaayyyy too easy. thing had to be empty aside from what looked like packaging material.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

8 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

curiosity got to me and a friend one day. we could barely move mine at all. they pushed that thing over waaayyyy too easy. thing had to be empty aside from what looked like packaging material.

I agree. Mine has 2 lags into the concrete floor and two into the wall. all 4 are 1/2". If they want it that bad have at it. I'll buy new ones. lol I am betting they wouldn't make it into the house anyway. Walking through the garage loaded with tools would probably side track them before they got there.