Draw Length

[heavuser]

Hey Guys, I just picked up a new bow today. I had been previously shooting my bowtech carbon zion at 29.5 draw length, they measured my draw length and said I was actually at 28. I felt perfectly fine at 29.5, should I have them setup the bow using the same draw length I'm using now or should I go down an inch and half like they recommended?

New bow is a Matthews V3x, I don't think they took the bow into account though. They just measured my draw length with a measuring tape and called it a day. 

What are your thoughts?

[onlybrowning]

I’ll share my experience and hope you find some perspective from it. I’ve been bow hunting for about 20 years. My first bow was set up by a mentor of mine who owned an archery shop and I didn’t even know what draw length was. I shot it a ton, killed some deer, and upgraded as fast as a teenage kid could. Fast forward about 10 years and 4 bows later. I realize every time I draw my bow, I have to bend my left arm to get the bowstring anywhere near my face. I adjust my (at the time) PSE Bow Madness 3G to its max, and it’s better, but my left arm is still quite bent. I shot this way for about 10 years believing it is correct, but wondered why I never felt very comfortable with a bow, lacked confidence, and developed terrible target panic. I ordered a brand new Bowtech Solution (which maxes at 30”) and set it up last year. It feels great, except my left arm is still bent and I’m doing the “draw the bow and move the whole deal to my face” thing. Long story long…I’m a 31” draw and it cost me a bunch of time and money to finally figure it out. The worst part is, two different bow shops didn’t say anything when I had work done on bows that I was shooting way too short. I didn’t know, and they didn’t say anything. I absolutely do not blame them, but I’m including it for a reason.

I go through this to say, only you know what is comfortable. Your left arm should not be locked out, but it shouldn’t be bent a bunch either. You shouldn’t have to adjust anything from full draw to anchor. Try different lengths and see what feels right. Most people my height are between 29-30” so I thought there’s no way I’ve been doing this wrong for so long. I was.

Maybe post a pic or two of you drawing your bow and we can take a look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BowmanMike]

You could go on archery talk and post a pic of you there drawing the bow. There is a very helpful fella goes by the handle.of nuts&bolts that will point you in the right direction. 

One can shoot with too long or to short DL but once you get it right it will be a world of difference. I shot with way too short DL for a couple of years. It is amazing what one can adjust to but it doesn't mean it is right.

[skully]

If your comfortable I would not change.  An inch and a half is a long way

[rob-c]

How well do you shoot the bowtech now ? Did you try shooting the Mathews at 28? How did it feel if you did ? Mathews bows tend to run 1/2 in long on draw anyways . Post up some photos of you at full draw and make sure your aiming level with your bow arm  . 

Edited August 3, 2022 by rob-c

[escpen]

A relatively decent rule of thumb is to take your height in inches (6' tall - 72") and divide by 2.5.  That will get most people in the ballpark for the right draw length.  I'm 5'11" (71") and my preferred draw length is 29" - 29 1/4", which is a little bit over the 28-1/2" that this coarse indicator would provide.  

If you are 5'8" (as an example - I don't know how tall you are) and your draw length is set to 29-1/2", unless you have unusually long arms you are likely shooting a draw length that is quite a bit too long for you.

That being said, archery is very much a "personal" sport - shoot what you are most comfortable and accurate with, regardless of the "rules of thumb".  Unfortunately, new modules are required to change the draw length on Mathews Bows so experimenting with different draw lengths could be cost prohibitive (unless you can get the dealer to swap different modules in and out for you).  Good luck!

Edited August 3, 2022 by escpen

[heavuser]

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I shoot the bowtech pretty well for a noobie, 3" groups at 40yrds. I'm 5' 11", middle finger to middle finger measures out to a little over 72"s. They got their measurements wrong. I plan on going back today to pull 28 then at 29 and to see if there is any difference in feel, 28 just seems a little drastic of a change. 

[Jeremy K]

An inch and a half is a huge difference.  If you've been shooting with good form at 29.5 then I would keep it at 29.5 . Measuring someone's wingspan isn't better then measuring while actually drawing the bow.

[escpen]

9 minutes ago, heavuser said:

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I shoot the bowtech pretty well for a noobie, 3" groups at 40yrds. I'm 5' 11", middle finger to middle finger measures out to a little over 72"s. They got their measurements wrong. I plan on going back today to pull 28 then at 29 and to see if there is any difference in feel, 28 just seems a little drastic of a change. 

Yep - sounds like you should be in the 29" - 29-1/2" range.

[rob-c]

40 minutes ago, heavuser said:

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I shoot the bowtech pretty well for a noobie, 3" groups at 40yrds. I'm 5' 11", middle finger to middle finger measures out to a little over 72"s. They got their measurements wrong. I plan on going back today to pull 28 then at 29 and to see if there is any difference in feel, 28 just seems a little drastic of a change. 

So wing span is only a starting point , but if you go off your 72 inches your draw is 28.75 . So technically your long now . So with the Mathews running a 1/2 inch long with a quarter inch loop , I bet the 28 module will land your draw hand in a more natural anchor point. Keep a open mind when you go to shoot the bow, you may have been shooting a 29.5 inch draw for ever and your used to it. But  you may be amazed at what a 1/2 will do for your shooting / grouping . 

[BowmanMike]

Also,if you are trying to tune your bow a DL too short or too long can easily give you tail left or tail right on your arrows. 

Have someone take pictures of you from directly opposite you that show your whole body at full draw. Or set the phone on a ladder or something. 

A picture from behind you is not bad either. You want your bow arm straight but not locked,that will make your bow shoulder ride up and your release arm should be directly opposite from your bow arm,pointing straight back.

[The_Real_TCIII]

I like this method


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[heavuser]

Alight, just got back from the shop.

We confirmed I'm a 29" draw length.

I also decided against the Matthews v3x and went with a Hoyt RX7 ultra. 

[Hock3y24]

In my experience matthews ran long. I have not shot the newer ones though. Only way to find out is to set it up and adjust it. Should t be any fees to change it at the shop.

[heavuser]

30 minutes ago, Hock3y24 said:

In my experience matthews ran long. I have not shot the newer ones though. Only way to find out is to set it up and adjust it. Should t be any fees to change it at the shop.

You're correct, it ran about a half inch long. 

[BowmanMike]

3 hours ago, heavuser said:

Alight, just got back from the shop.

We confirmed I'm a 29" draw length.

I also decided against the Matthews v3x and went with a Hoyt RX7 ultra. 

Don't know about the rx7,but I went from a halon x to a ventum33 and love the drawcycle and grip so much better. I will keep this bow for a long time...

[heavuser]

1 hour ago, BowmanMike said:

Don't know about the rx7,but I went from a halon x to a ventum33 and love the drawcycle and grip so much better. I will keep this bow for a long time...

I tried the Ventum33 as well, it was nice.

 

For me, the RX7U was just better than the V3x. I normally shoot 60lbs, and I'm still working on form during the draw cycle. What sold me on the RX7U was that I could pull 70#s as it felt like pulling 60lbs of the Matthews. The draw cycle was insanely smooth, and the grip was just better. My only gripe is the color, all they had was one Gore Optifade Elevated II. I really wanted just a solid color. First world problems I guess. 

[BowmanMike]

2 minutes ago, heavuser said:

I tried the Ventum33 as well, it was nice.

 

For me, the RX7U was just better than the V3x. I normally shoot 60lbs, and I'm still working on form during the draw cycle. What sold me on the RX7U was that I could pull 70#s as it felt like pulling 60lbs of the Matthews. The draw cycle was insanely smooth, and the grip was just better. My only gripe is the color, all they had was one Gore Optifade Elevated II. I really wanted just a solid color. First world problems I guess. 

Haha,seriously. Hoyt really.has come up with an amazing camera system. I tried someone's ventum at a 3d shoot and thought it was 50#. I shoot 60# and did then with my halon x. But the ventum was so easy... I am sure the rx7 is similar,enjoy it!

 

 

[rob-c]

4 hours ago, heavuser said:

Alight, just got back from the shop.

We confirmed I'm a 29" draw length.

I also decided against the Matthews v3x and went with a Hoyt RX7 ultra. 

Nice , I’ve been a Hoyt guy for 25+ years . Enjoy the new better fitting bow . 

[dbHunterNY]

all the methods if done right should get you close but when you draw have someone look at your draw arm elbow postion and bow arm position with shoulder. all in alignment and not hyper extended it should look relaxed with elbow running in line with arrow shaft, not in or out as viewed from the back. @The_Real_TCIII posted a good video by Dudley but still people have bobble heads and do weird things to where it could be off a half an inch. They also have weird anchor points and tend to position themselves to deal with the bow fit, so have them close their eyes and anchor as you explain it to them where it feels comfortable.

[heavuser]

59 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

all the methods if done right should get you close but when you draw have someone look at your draw arm elbow postion and bow arm position with shoulder. all in alignment and not hyper extended it should look relaxed with elbow running in line with arrow shaft, not in or out as viewed from the back. @The_Real_TCIII posted a good video by Dudley but still people have bobble heads and do weird things to where it could be off a half an inch. They also have weird anchor points and tend to position themselves to deal with the bow fit, so have them close their eyes and anchor as you explain it to them where it feels comfortable.

It's been really hard for me to find a good shop that is will to take the time to properly evaluate me. I honestly wish there was a class or something you could pay for where they go over paper tuning, bare shaft tuning, and proper form(reconfiguring your bow if necessary)......

[dbHunterNY]

2 minutes ago, heavuser said:

It's been really hard for me to find a good shop that is will to take the time to properly evaluate me. I honestly wish there was a class or something you could pay for where they go over paper tuning, bare shaft tuning, and proper form(reconfiguring your bow if necessary)......

you learn by doing and honestly you need things like a press, draw board, etc so you're not wasting time going 3 steps forward and 2 steps back. youtube is your friend but stick to advice coming from tournament/well know bow shooters and certified level (whatever) coaches.

[BowmanMike]

4 hours ago, heavuser said:

It's been really hard for me to find a good shop that is will to take the time to properly evaluate me. I honestly wish there was a class or something you could pay for where they go over paper tuning, bare shaft tuning, and proper form(reconfiguring your bow if necessary)......

A really good shop is hard to find. I went to a complete hack for a bit I should have trusted my first impression. Now I have a great bowshop,one man shop and he is great. If I had not found him I would have invested in a home shop for sure.

[rob-c]

5 hours ago, heavuser said:

It's been really hard for me to find a good shop that is will to take the time to properly evaluate me. I honestly wish there was a class or something you could pay for where they go over paper tuning, bare shaft tuning, and proper form(reconfiguring your bow if necessary)......

I bought my first press, saw , fletcher etc about 20+ years ago If your mechanically inclined it’s worth it. 

[heavuser]

2 hours ago, rob-c said:

I bought my first press, saw , fletcher etc about 20+ years ago If your mechanically inclined it’s worth it. 

Yes and no, I break a lot of stuff before I get it right ... lol