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Chevy truck owners I have a problem question


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I own a 2007 Tahoe. I'm the original owner and the truck has been great. The truck is idling rough, check engine light is on and the stabiltrack goes off and says needs service. I had it at my garage today and the computer says #7 cylinder is missing. They changed the plug, wire and coil. Still has the same problem. Monday they will do a compression check and pull the valve cover. My guy is saying it could be the lifters that need replacing, he had to do it for his wife's Tahoe. If I go on line there are so many horror stories about this problem. Truck losing power, brakes and steering go out. Is there any of you that have had a similar problem with their Chevy truck? Any info would be appreciated!

FL

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sounds like you did everything i would have done. one time i tried to correct a cylinder misfire in another car with coil packs i got cheap from rock auto. $300 later after the problem didn't go away it was determined they were just shitty new coils too.

 

Sometimes compression issues are solved by a good fuel system treatment... but that's not likely. At the same time, buying a bottle of good $7 fuel system cleaner isn't a bad idea anyhow.

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Yes 5.3 fuel injected. He changed out the injector today, no luck. The truck does have 157, 500 miles on it. The motor is strong for sure but I guess I should get ready to put some money into it?

yep, my Dodge has 205,000 on it and running strong and I've put about $3000.00 into it the past 2 years....but still better than a monthly payment........

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                 put a new battery in your truck. Even if it is new or test shows that it is fine it could have a short in it. When that happens the computer that controlls everything will get wrong voltage and show faulty codes and make things run like crap. A short in battery will not show up in tests or a obd ll scan it will only show the codes of what it thinks is wrong. If this does not fix it then I would say you have a short in the wires going to the injector for number 7 cylinder. Sence this isnt a dodge it is fixable.

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My buddy stopped over once with a 5.3 running rough , first thing i did was hit the exhaust manifolds with a shot of wd-40 to see what cylinder was dead(while the engine is still hot) . I ended up changing the injector to that cylinder . I just sold a truck with almost 200k on a 5.3 and it was still running great. I always have a hard time believing mechanics ,thats why i wrench on my own stuff.

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The stabilitrak light is a nightmare in chevy vehicles my wife's 2010 equinox stabilitrak light came on then that caused the abs light to go on and off i tried to change speed sensors and stuff none of that helped i took it to the dealer and they had to do something in the computer to correct they had to take the dashboard apart to get at whatever it was they needed to do during that time they realized that when they changed my timing chain a year earlier they broke a bolt on the motor that couldn't be replaced so they put a new motor in her vehicle that has 49k miles. That explained some other problems we were having with the pos. Sorry for any misspelling or rambling its been a very long hot day lol.

Good luck i hoe you figure it out

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Google Stabilitrak Red and you can see its been an on going problem.  My parents just got a recall on there chevy car for it.  Wifey had a 2010 equinox and we went through problem after problem. Didnt even get to 40k miles and had to have timing chain replaced twice under warranty, oil pan rusted out and started leaking, motor just was terrible on gas.  But Chevy doesnt actually make it either.  I drive a ton of miles at least 50k a year and after 4 GM company vehicles, 2 Chevy trucks and that equinox I will never ever again for the rest of my life own a Chevy product.  Past 2 Dodge trucks have all went 300k miles before replacing and the one I have now is at 225K.  Like em or hate em they have been the most dependable vehicles I have ever owned. 

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on the gm vehicle's ANY code will throw the stabilitrack light it basically puts the vehicle in limp mode. so he changed the plug and coil but did he check power voltage/ground for said coil ? if that cylinder is not firing then you should get a rich reading on up stream o2 sensor or if the injector is bad you will get a lean reading. try spraying intake manifold with wd-40 around the #7 intake runner when running for bad gasket this will also cause a lean reading if leaking. if you have not done any maintenance on your engine its time for plugs all around and clean the throttle blade. another thing to check is your ground strap from motor to frame should be at pass front of engine pull on it and see if it falls apart looks like a wide flat woven wire that corrodes in our nice ny winters..

Edited by rob-c
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Folks,

I disconnected the negative lead to the battery. Let it sit for a half hour. Hooked it back up and started the truck. Engine light off and the idol is perfect. Voltage regulator is normal now. Now I will drive for a half hour to see what happens!!!!

 

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Hope it stays running good….Sometimes when you think you're in for a big repair bill, it turns out to be something cheap and simple. A few weeks ago my trick (100k+ miles on it) was making an annoying squeaking sound when I turned the wheel left. Thought I needed ball joints. I greased the hell out of the front end, and  now its as quiet as new.

 

Good luck

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Truck is running rough again. Went on a few forums and said to clean the air man agent system and throttle body. I did both but no luck. Now I read it could be the body modular sensor or the accelerator sensor. I think I will bring it back to my mechanic and let hime do the compression test on#7 and look at the lifters. Don't know what else to do…..frustrating for sure.

 

I should clarify that it runs rough at a stop lights, foot on the brake and when you rev the engine and it hits 1500 rpms. 

Edited by First-light
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