Do you reload?

[Culvercreek hunt club]

You can make your own bullet trays, don't need an electronic scale, or a bullet puller. Don't need a better powder measure, as many will tell you the Lee Perfect Powder Measure is extremely accurate and repeatable. Don't need a fancy trickler as I use a spent 30-06 case and use that to trickle. Definitely don't need a tumbler. I downloaded some manuals online and got my data from research, all free.

Regards to a turret, I found that if you're loading in volume, you most likely will be doing each task in volume, i.e sizing all cases, then priming all cases, then throwing charges on all cases, then seating bullets on all cases. In this regard, I found that the new breech locking system Lee has is extremely simple to change out the dies for each task, and I find the turret not necessary. If you do one round at a time from start to completion, then I can definitely see the value in the turret system.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

I would never recommend that anyone start without a manual. While much of the info is online, it is a valuable tool, especially for a beginner.  I also see a bullet puller as a "need". It will happen, there will be some that don't go BANG. or you realize there is an error somehow. Pretty cheap for around $12-15

when set up with the turret you can do small volume cases  (my 38/357 and 223) at the rate of 150 an hour. The benefit is NOT having to handle the case at every step. 

[shawnhu]

I would never recommend that anyone start without a manual. While much of the info is online, it is a valuable tool, especially for a beginner. I also see a bullet puller as a "need". It will happen, there will be some that don't go BANG. or you realize there is an error somehow. Pretty cheap for around $12-15

when set up with the turret you can do small volume cases (my 38/357 and 223) at the rate of 150 an hour. The benefit is NOT having to handle the case at every step.

Definately not recommending it, just stating that's what I did.

I later got a puller when I needed it, and downloaded manuals online. I currently have the Lee, Lyman's, Nosler, Hornady as well as Hodgdon's data all electronically.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

[Culvercreek hunt club]

Definately not recommending it, just stating that's what I did.

I later got a puller when I needed it, and downloaded manuals online. I currently have the Lee, Lyman's, Nosler, Hornady as well as Hodgdon's data all electronically.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

Understood. But for a beginner the load data in a manual is an important piece but the explanation of the process and theory is the key

[Daveboone]

I have been reloading for about 40 years, about 12 diff. calibers.

My opinion is the most important piece of equipment is a current reloading manual (my preference is Speer), which will explain a lot of the "whys" as well as "hows". It is difficult to be a safe reloader without paying attention to reloading science and theory.

2nd, a good quality scale: I have both a bar scale and a digital. Their quality is the quality of your ammo, and safety.

Next : a set of quality calipers. Case lengths, overall lengths, all are critical in reloading.

Lastly: be sure you aren't rushed...EVER, when loading.

It is a great hobby, but it isn't for anyone who doesn't have patience, or for those who want to trim corners.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

I have been reloading for about 40 years, about 12 diff. calibers.

My opinion is the most important piece of equipment is a current reloading manual (my preference is Speer), which will explain a lot of the "whys" as well as "hows". It is difficult to be a safe reloader without paying attention to reloading science and theory.

2nd, a good quality scale: I have both a bar scale and a digital. Their quality is the quality of your ammo, and safety.

Next : a set of quality calipers. Case lengths, overall lengths, all are critical in reloading.

Lastly: be sure you aren't rushed...EVER, when loading.

It is a great hobby, but it isn't for anyone who doesn't have patience, or for those who want to trim corners.

Wish I could like this a hundred times. Stated perfectly

[rob-c]

I am almost 100 percent sure I'm going to get the lee single stage press kit. It has some good reviews and seems easy to use.

this is what I started with and its a very nice press, I shoot /hunt with my hand guns now so I load a bunch of 38/357, 380, and 44mag. I now use lee's turret press and I like it a lot also. it is a big cost savings especially with hard cast slugs the only expensive part is the initial set up but even that pays for itself in the long run. Lyman has a very nice reloading book they have many powder/bullet combinations for each caliber.

[MrGroundhog]

Thanks for all the info guys.

[wildcat junkie]

Understood. But for a beginner the load data in a manual is an important piece but the explanation of the process and theory is the key

 

I started out W/the Nosler #4 Manual. Lots of good advice on the process. OP definitely needs a good manual to start out. I would recommend the Nosler manuals for the safety information & explanation.

 

I don't know if anyone has hit upon it yet, but 6" a piece of wire bent in a "L" shape W/a < 1/8" leg on the end is good for checking incipient case head separation. I never found any until I started loading 30/40 Krag. The sloping case walls lead to a lot of brass flow & some of the cases I 1st started reloading have started to separate.

 

Also, a small bell reducer pipe fitting, a 1/4" x 20 Allan head screw W/a nut & washer will make a functional case puller when an un-lubed case is inadvertently seized in the die. Just remove the die W/the stock case, drill out the flash hole W/a #7 bit & tap the 1/4"x20 threads. You can then thread the screw into the case & use the nut & washer pushing against the bell reducer that is pushing against the die to pull the stock case. The big end of the bell reducer must be large enough I. D. to allow the case head to enter.

Edited February 10, 2016 by wildcat junkie

[Culvercreek hunt club]

WCJ. You have a pic of the case puller. Would be great to post here or in its own thread.

[wildcat junkie]

WCJ. You have a pic of the case puller. Would be great to post here or in its own thread.

 

I'll get one taken & post it along W/my case head separation detector in the morning.

[dbHunterNY]

that's one thing i've been looking into a lot.  what to get for a scale.  seems the electronic scales are all hit or miss except the measure and scale in one that are like $250+.  i see how an electronic is way more convenient than a balance.  i can see a balance being super accurate though.  one consideration i've got is i'd like the ability to weight my arrows too that are possibly 500+ grains.  i really like the RCBS supreme master single stage kit if I go with a single stage press.

[fasteddie]

I was lucky enough to be able to get a Lyman turret press and an Ohaus Beam Scale with some dies and other stuff for $75 when they used to post stuff on the Swap Sheet . 

The beam scale is slow but very accurate . I have a couple of small electronic scales but can't measure the powder fast enough and the scale turns off . I also purchased a Lee single stage press that I use mostly for de-priming . 

 

[Jaeger]

Definitely worth it if you use an odd caliber and/or have a specific bullet preference not available in factory form.  For example, I have a 38-72 Winchester that's easier to load for than pay $80/20.

 

I also like Woodleigh bullets and they are rarely available in factory form.

 

It is also a great way to shoot a lot of my big guns with reduced loads not available from the factory stuff.  375 H&H bunny load anyone?

 

It's FUN.

 

That being said, yes the cost per round MAY go down but after you factor in the cost of equipment (press, dies, powder dispenser, powder scale, loading manuals (get more than one), trimmers, bullet pullers, and a myriad of little things) it's a lot of $$ to recoup before you start to see savings.

 

Also, I shoot a lot more so the total $$ spent is about the same or higher than if I didn't reload.  I shoot a lot of rounds trying to perfect a specific load/gun/bullet combination.  It's GREAT FUN. 

 

But I'm spending more money now than I ever did before.  

 

In the past and still in the present, I can find wonderfully accurate ammo by simply buying different brands/loads/bullet/grades of off the shelf ammo.  It's what your individual gun likes.  And factory ammo has become very accurate and hard to improve on.

 

BUT IT'S FUN.

 

And very satisfying when I develop a load with a favorite bullet that is wicked accurate.

 

So I guess what I'm saying is that if one picks up reloading, you will probably be shooting more, spending more money and having more fun.

 

Just my experience.

 

Jaeger

[wildcat junkie]

that's one thing i've been looking into a lot.  what to get for a scale.  seems the electronic scales are all hit or miss except the measure and scale in one that are like $250+.  i see how an electronic is way more convenient than a balance.  i can see a balance being super accurate though.  one consideration i've got is i'd like the ability to weight my arrows too that are possibly 500+ grains.  i really like the RCBS supreme master single stage kit if I go with a single stage press.

 

Here is the scale that has the best reputation for repeatable accuracy.

 

 

It has a resolution of .02grs and the one I purchased would indeed show the weight difference when individual kernels of powder were trickled onto the pan. It has a capacity of 771gr.

 

Now here's the good part. They sell for $150 or less!

 

Brownells has them so your local gun shop can order you one.

 

Digital scales are a lot more convenient than balance beams.

 

I set my charger for about .3gr less than the desired charge & trickle to finish it up.Unless you are loading way below max, a scale is a good idea as chargers can vary the weight of the charge as much as 1gr and even more as the powder in the hopper changes volume.

Edited February 10, 2016 by wildcat junkie

[Culvercreek hunt club]

that's one thing i've been looking into a lot.  what to get for a scale.  seems the electronic scales are all hit or miss except the measure and scale in one that are like $250+.  i see how an electronic is way more convenient than a balance.  i can see a balance being super accurate though.  one consideration i've got is i'd like the ability to weight my arrows too that are possibly 500+ grains.  i really like the RCBS supreme master single stage kit if I go with a single stage press.

I picked this one up and it stays dead on with my beam scale. Comes with a calibration weight, will go high enough to weigh my arrows and doesn't turn off on my while I am using it. It does have an auto off but it hasn't done it to me yet. 

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/175512/frankford-arsenal-ds-750-electronic-powder-scale-750-grain-capacity

[Steuben Jerry]

Great information here from everyone. I've been thinking about getting into this for a while now, and may jump in this year.

 

I'll be consulting this thread - thanks all!

[wildcat junkie]

WCJ. You have a pic of the case puller. Would be great to post here or in its own thread.

 

 

I'll get one taken & post it along W/my case head separation detector in the morning.

Here you go.

 

1st, the components.

 

1/16 x 1/4" bell reducer. (1/8"pipe size for the small end will work, but if you can find the 1/16" reducer you will be able to drill out the small end for a nice slip fit over the 1/4" screw) For magnum cases or those W/a case head larger than .473 use a bell reducer W/the large end for 3/8" pipe thread or enlarge the big end of the reducer so that the case can enter as it pulled from the die..

 

1/4" x 20 x 2 1/2"socket head machine screw.

 

1/4" x 20 nut

 

1/4" flat washer.

 

 

 

 

 

Tools needed;

 

1/4" drill bit

 

#7 drill bit

 

1/4" x 20 tap

 

1/4" x 20 die

 

File to face off the ends of the bell reducer

 

3/16" Allan wrench

 

 

Face off the ends of the bell reducer, then drill a 1/4"clearance hole through the small end (if all you can find is a 1/8" reducer, this step can be eliminated)

 

Use a 1/4" x 20 die to run additional threads onto the machine screw. you will need @ least 3/8" of threads protruding through the bell reducer when the nut is run all the way onto the machine screw & the screw is inserted into the bell reducer.That is all there is to making the puller. To pull a stuck case from a die you must 1st drill through the flash hole of the case & tap W/the 1/4": x 20 tap.

 

Here is a case that has been stuck in the die after the shell holder pulled the rim off. Note the deformed rim and the threads that have been tapped in the case.

 

Place the bolt through the bell reducer with the nut turned onto the bolt so @ least 3/8" of thread is showing.

 

 

Screw the threads into the case until l the bell reducer is pulled up against the base of the die.

 

While holding the socket head screw W/the Allan wrench, tighten the nut until the case is pulled free from the die.

 

 

Now, a tool to check for incipient case head separation. A large paper clip will make a functional tool for this. You want a wire small enough to "catch" on the groove/ridge that will result on the inside of the case as incipient case head separation begins to occur.

 

Bend a short leg < 1/8" long on one end & another longer leg on the other that will allow you to "index" the short section while it is inside the case. Add an additional bend so you can hang the tool on your loading bench. If all you have is heavy gauge wire, file the end to a point so it will "catch" & allow you to feel the defect.

 

 

Make the tool longer than the longest case you will need to check.

 

If you look closely near the top of the case just ahead of the web you can see a slightly "bright" ring starting to form on the case. This is what to look for on the outside & will usually manifest itself before anything can be felt on the inside. The tool will confirm the onset of case head separation or detect that which is not yet visible on the outside.

 

 

Here is another shot where, if you look very closely, about 3/8" ahead of the rim, you can see the slightly brighter ring beginning to appear.

 

This case must be discarded.

Edited February 10, 2016 by wildcat junkie

[Culvercreek hunt club]

Great post. Thank you . 

[dbHunterNY]

I think I'm going to look into that Gem-Pro 250.  it's gotten great reviews by those who use it with the same intentions I would.

[wildcat junkie]

I think I'm going to look into that Gem-Pro 250.  it's gotten great reviews by those who use it with the same intentions I would.

 

It's an awesome tool!

 

[chas0218]

Yup almost all of it. Only thing I can't reload cheaper is 9mm. Cheaper is the best benefit but also repeatability. If my loads are all loaded to a certian spec and shoot like crap I know it is me or the bullet/powder. Nice to fine tune a round to a specific gun. Also you can load up rounds not commercially available. I currently reload my 9mm in 147 JHP I cannot find any that are reasonably priced.

[chas0218]

I think I'm going to look into that Gem-Pro 250.  it's gotten great reviews by those who use it with the same intentions I would.

For the price I would just save a little more and get one of those automatic feeder scales. This is what I'm talking about, but have seen it cheaper.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Auto-Charge/dp/B003O20UOW

[Culvercreek hunt club]

Yup almost all of it. Only thing I can't reload cheaper is 9mm. Cheaper is the best benefit but also repeatability. If my loads are all loaded to a certian spec and shoot like crap I know it is me or the bullet/powder. Nice to fine tune a round to a specific gun. Also you can load up rounds not commercially available. I currently reload my 9mm in 147 JHP I cannot find any that are reasonably priced.

Curious. What are you reloading JHP for? hunting loads?

[wildcat junkie]

For the price I would just save a little more and get one of those automatic feeder scales. This is what I'm talking about, but have seen it cheaper.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Auto-Charge/dp/B003O20UOW

 

You can measure  charges faster W/a standard volume measure & a trickler on the Gem Pro. I throw loads about .3 to .5grs light & then trickle to finish them out.

 

[dbHunterNY]

For the price I would just save a little more and get one of those automatic feeder scales. This is what I'm talking about, but have seen it cheaper.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Auto-Charge/dp/B003O20UOW

 

I'm reloading not really for quantity but more for quality and long range shooting.  I like the accuracy of the other scale.  for less than $10 bucks I hear those volume based scoop sets work well and can be pretty quick once you're repeating loads to get a quick "close" dump.  the hornady one goes high enough to measure my archery stuff but not all of that type do go that high.