Jump to content

1st shot daily pics


stoneam2006
 Share

Recommended Posts

On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2016 at 5:13 PM, Core said:

Lengthened my draw length another 1/2" today. Can't really say it's related to this, but this is the tightest group I've ever shot at 30 yards (pin sight is off, haven't bothered re-aligning since my peep was adjusted). This is with the "decimator" arrows, which dicks/field and stream had for $30 recently and which are, in fact, $20 for six right now.

I have noticed if I ever get flyers they seem pretty much always to go to the left.

 

 

30 yard.JPG

as long as your bow arm is still bent and your other arm to your elbow is inline with the arrow then you're probably good.  slightly too long and you'll have big movement of the floating pin on target.  too short and you'll have less movement but the floating will be much faster.  your wing span with held out arms not overly stretching divided by 2.5 usually works pretty well.  always round down to the nearest half inch though.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, dbHunterNY said:

as long as your bow arm is still bent and your other arm to your elbow is inline with the arrow then you're probably good.  slightly too long and you'll have big movement of the floating pin on target.  too short and you'll have less movement but the floating will be much faster.  your wing span with held out arms not overly stretching divided by 2.5 usually works pretty well.  always round down to the nearest half inch though.

I'm 2.5 but rounded up to the inch right now--.6:" above my actual height/2.5. Not positive it is correct, but it is feeling decent. I no longer have to lean my head forward to get nose-on-string contact.

Until a month ago (?) I was having a slight bend in my bow arm but I've read a lot about slight bend vs not and started not having a bend. This has resulted in less straight on that shoulder, but now my forearm is about 1/4" from the string stopper. This is fine, I've never hit my forearm, but it's close enough I'll probably need a forearm protector when I hunt to keep the clothing close in to the forearm there.

I've tried fiddling with hand position a ton. The most comfortable is to have the bow's stress go through the heel of my hand (basically right on the bone), but I keep experimenting with that vs having it in the crease of my thumb.

I absolutely do get left flyers. I never get flyers, ever to the right of my grouping. Some article online said this is because I am torquing the bow slightly in my hand on those shots, trying to twist it across the target.

Edited by Core
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Core said:

I'm 2.5 but rounded up to the inch right now--.6:" above my actual height/2.5. Not positive it is correct, but it is feeling decent. I no longer have to lean my head forward to get nose-on-string contact.

Until a month ago (?) I was having a slight bend in my bow arm but I've read a lot about slight bend vs not and started not having a bend. This has resulted in less straight on that shoulder, but now my forearm is about 1/4" from the string stopper. This is fine, I've never hit my forearm, but it's close enough I'll probably need a forearm protector when I hunt to keep the clothing close in to the forearm there.

I've tried fiddling with hand position a ton. The most comfortable is to have the bow's stress go through the heel of my hand (basically right on the bone), but I keep experimenting with that vs having it in the crease of my thumb.

I absolutely do get left flyers. I never get flyers, ever to the right of my grouping. Some article online said this is because I am torquing the bow slightly in my hand on those shots, trying to twist it across the target.

wing span isn't the same proportion to height for everyone.  you're drawing your bow with your arms so I always start with wingspan.  especially with today's shorter axle-to-axle bows, touching your nose might not be possible.  if you try to setup to do it without tipping your head down the string will be back on your cheek versus at the corner of your mouth.  you can have multiple other anchor points though without touching to the tip of your nose.

always have a slight relaxing bend at the elbow.  never lock your elbow/arm outward.  1/4" will probably be too little once you get an arm guard or sock and have your insulated jacket sleeve.  also you're changing your anchor when you push the bow further out like that.

hand position is different for everyone.  the edge of the grip should run right down your lifeline though with the grip pushing into the meat at the base of your thumb.  wrist will then be pushed back a bit, locking it into place while basically being completely relaxed.  keep your hand relaxed through the shot, otherwise you'll start to push out with your heal or torque the bow.

left flyers might be you pushing more than pulling on the bow because your bow arm is overly extended.  those are my thoughts without actually being there to see things.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Core

if the bow is tuned and DL is correct, fliers are all about improper alignment on a shot, which is often caused by failure to use your back to draw and instead using your shoulder and arm.  Keep that forearm loose and close the gap in your draw elbow as soon as you can while drawing.  Trying to close that gap early, will force you to draw in a straight line and use your back to draw, which will help with proper body alignment.  Learning back tension is not an easy thing, but closing the gap in your drawing arm is the best way I have heard it explained.  Some teach a rotational draw, which works but its not as easy to explain.  I have found telling new archers to close that gap as soon as possible usually results in good back tension and alignment at anchor.  Might be worth a try.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pointers in the last few posts. I think inconsistency in how I old the bow is massive right now. I have been changing how I draw it and the last few weeks I've found if I raise the bow a bit I can use my back far more to draw it, so I've really been trying to fell it in the back as I pull--I can get a nice lat stretch out of it. My shooting at hunting ranges is fine as I'm always in vitals at 30 or below, but I still really want to get much better at range.

Wondering if anybody can explain this! Here are results from paper tuning last night. I think they are pretty solid, with the arrow looking awesome at 10,7 yards, just a little off at 3, but given that ever arrow flexes as its fired I can't imagine a "perfect" paper tune is even possible.

But the weird thing is my pins are way, way, way to the left. And I just was shooting at 50 yard and the pins really are properly set, but when I look down the string and the arrow and the pins, whether at rest or drawn, they look like this in the pic. So, even though the arrows appear to be flying straight, and frankly even if it wasn't tuned well at all, the line between the peep and the pins, which represents the actual path of flight, seems to veer off hugely from where the actual arrow is pointing, either at rest or full draw. In fact, to get my pins now to match the vertical impact plane, as they now do, I had to shift it absolutely as far over as it would go. 

 

papertune.png

alignment.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Core

The paper looks pretty good.  I have had bows that tune with the pins to the left of the string when the string is lined up with the arrow from behind.  Archers paradox and you may have a slightly stiff arrow.  I would worry much with that paper (although a very slight adjustment of the rest to the left may make it perfect) and if the BHs and FP are hitting same POI to 50yds.  Looks good.  A consistent bow hand position is also very important as you suggest.  For a 2nd year archer, you are picking things up quickly.  Now go kill deer!

Edited by moog5050
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Sorry that should be small adjustment to the right.

Ha! I didn't want to ask but couldn't help myself. Vertical tip problems are intuitive, but horizontal ones are not. I figured that out last night by seeing the same thing and trying to fix it by moving the rest to the left, which merely made the problem way worse. Really weird, but yep in this case it needs to move right just a hair. 

If field stream still has the $20 decimator arrows on sale tomorrow (I think/hope it still does), I will buy a box of stiffer ones just for the heck of it to see what they do, though I am definitely spined correctly according to boxes right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Core said:

Ha! I didn't want to ask but couldn't help myself. Vertical tip problems are intuitive, but horizontal ones are not. I figured that out last night by seeing the same thing and trying to fix it by moving the rest to the left, which merely made the problem way worse. Really weird, but yep in this case it needs to move right just a hair. 

If field stream still has the $20 decimator arrows on sale tomorrow (I think/hope it still does), I will buy a box of stiffer ones just for the heck of it to see what they do, though I am definitely spined correctly according to boxes right now.

Core

If anything, I would try a weaker spine, or just add 25g to the tip of your arrow.  Stiffer spine will cause a larger right tear.  In any event, if the slight rest adjustment resulted in bullet holes, stay with what you have.  You will start chasing your tail with new spined arrows.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

moogs giving good advice.  with tears like that just move forward to walk back tuning and actually shooting your bow at distances.  arrows flex.  everyone torques their bow to an extent.  if your arrows fly true and group ok at the range then whatever torn paper results doesn't really matter any more.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Buckmaster7600 said:

Core, what kind of bow are you shooting? My spare bow is a bowtech experience and it was paper tuned perfectly and sights arrow and rest were exactly as you described started doing some research because it was my first bowtech "and last" and it turned out to be a cam lean issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a PSE Stinger. Maybe I'll see if I can get somebody to film the cams as I draw back, see if they do anything funny. It fell out of a tree last year but that was at least a thousand arrows ago.

I think next time I see somebody who's really wrecking it at the range (and this is rare at my range unfortunately!) I may ask them to shoot a group and see how they do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today was not a good day. The Prism shoots nice, smooth, and very quiet. To bad the guy shooting it is out of practice. I was all over the target in the beginning.

20 yards.

Pic1, Very first group. Made adjustments, shot more, more adjustments. Got group in pic 2. Made a few adjustments, started getting a little closer groups. pic 3 was the last of the day. I was getting frustrated so I ended the day with that group. Super tight, but 3" left.

dpgp1.jpg

dpgp2.jpg

dpgp3.jpg

Edited by ....rob
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today was not a good day. The Prism shoots nice, smooth, and very quiet. To bad the guy shooting it is out of practice. I was all over the target in the beginning.

20 yards.

Pic1, Very first group. Made adjustments, shot more, more adjustments. Got group in pic 2. Made a few adjustments, started getting a little closer groups. pic 3 was the last of the day. I was getting frustrated so I ended the day with that group. Super tight, but 3" left.

dpgp1.jpg

dpgp2.jpg

dpgp3.jpg



3rd group is nice just move her over and your golden

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ....rob said:

Have to hit some state land that allows target shooting. Get the FP's over and then get practicing with the broad heads. Time's ticking.

Not sure if PR technically allows target shooting...but I do it and so do plenty of others...I've seen guys up there shooting ARs and Aks, blowing through a few hundred rounds at a rip.  Plenty of area up there you can pull off into and setup a target to shoot at...no ones gonna bother you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great advice!

Since switching to the new arrows I notice I do not get a flyer on my first shot, probably because I am holding my back tension/form better.  I did not paper tune and just made the left right adjustment and picked up 2 more yards on my pins so now my pins are 28-38 through 78.  This was Wed at 15 yards, about an inch low, still getting use to new arrows at 15 yards my 28 pin is now only an inch or so low vs before was about 2 inches.

Sep7.JPG

 

Today 48 yards, slightly to the left but acceptable.  Hope I get the last shoot of the year at Suffolk Archers in tomorrow!  Looks like rain.  My arrow green/white both pics are the same shot.

Sep10.JPGSept10.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...