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Breaking ground what to use?


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So the spring process is on my mind as the slow pounds down today. I have three 1/2 acre plots on a clear cut 40 acres and only one of those plots has ever had ground broke. The question is what is the optimum tool to use?

I have read about the ground hog max at length and I'm not really sold. So with that in mind with a little heavier duty in mind I found these options what do you all think? Or stick with the ground hog? Tool of use will be brute 750 Thanks in advance for the input.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/field-tuff-atv-disc-harrow?a=614093

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Sandy loam a bit rocky. One field is all fern now that's an old clover plot. Another is mostly pricker bushes and grasses both of these should have minimal roots. Last plot has a couple trees and root systems to be removed along with hinge cutting a border around the plot. By far the most work needed of all the plots. With what I'm planting no more then 3-4 inches.

Tannerrite? Thanks I will look it up

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In my opinion, there is no way that the tool in the picture was able to turn over the ground the way it is depicted in the picture.   There is no way it could be heavy enough to do that.

I do all my work with a 60 inch PTO Tiller, so that is my only reference point.

Call me skeptical, but it takes some weight and HP to get the ground turned over.

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The ground in the picture was prepped.  I imagine it shows what the spring harrows did to an area with a thin cover crop on it.  The photo isn't totally staged, but the ground has already been worked up, probably with bigger equipment, reseeded and then "tilled" up with the light duty harrows.

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When it comes to working up soil the first time, I don't think there is a substitute for a plow and disc, or a tiller. Some local farmers use an implement like that field cultivator, but with 200hp and a 45,000 dollar implement.

Will

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I am in a similiar situation as far as putting in new food plots on overgrown fields. I spoke to my local Bobcat dealer that rents implements, and he suggested I use a harley rake attachment for my skidsteer (after brush hogging). I figured if it didn't go deep enough, I could go back and then do the cultivator attachment. Any thoughts on this?

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4 hours ago, Will_C said:

When it comes to working up soil the first time, I don't think there is a substitute for a plow and disc, or a tiller. Some local farmers use an implement like that field cultivator, but with 200hp and a 45,000 dollar implement.

Will

Thanks when it comes down to it that's my real question. 

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I would think about a similar sized set of disk harrows.  I have used anything from an 18" walk-behind rototiller to a 10' set of farm discs.  The benefit to discs is they will ride over rocks and roots and they have few working parts.  They won't break as easily as a tiller, and they are cheaper to fix if they do. 

You can break ground with just about anything, including a steel rake.  It's just a matter of how much you want to spend, and how hard you want to work.  Overall, I recommend a small set of disc harrows.  

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I started out using a walk behind tiller but your biggest investment is time...You start out shallow ripping up the very top part of the sod you killed ahead of time preferably just before a good rain...this will allow you to "pick" rocks as you go and break the surface so the rain can help "loosen" the next layer...then after the rain, go across what you did earlier just a little deeper...If the thatch is too much rake it off .. but if it isn't leave it and over seed then roll it for the first year...you can try a cheap red clover in spring or a sweet rye then a fall planting of brassica and or winter grain...This will give that thatch time to rot......The following year will be easier to work ...

NUMBER ONE RULE  in first time plotters with limited equipment...IT TAKES TIME..NOTHING  needs to be perfect that first year...for one thing it takes the deer time to realize there is a new food source of anything, in the area..Make the whole thing more a labor of love, than a PITA $$ eating project...If the process, work and all, can't be as enjoyable as the outcome ...go plant some trees you'll be far better off...That is to all potential new plotters:wink:

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I have property in Chenango County.  Soil is full of rocks.  I think you'll break or bend that cultivator, go with the disc harrow. It might not be heavy enough I used a two-bottom plow, attached to my 36 hp tractor.   This year I wanted to invest in a disc harrow, but it is almost $2 grand, so going to rip untouched portion of my field with the tine on my box blade and then go over it with my two-bottom plow.  It should be less clumpy than just plowing alone.  My plan is to de-rock first this year, plant however it turns out, then buy the harrow next year with less rocks.

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Got some pics of where you're planting.

 

Your brute force 750, does it go 2-3 mph in 1st with the clutch fully in?  Or does the semi auto clutch slip to that speed.  My 2017 honda trx420 slips into first at 4mph and is steady engaged at 6-7mph.  This is a basic atv and not a sport one.

 

I could see my atv having issues with that tine rake you posted.  That needs some power to push, unless you do a few passes deeper each time.  A deep till is desireable, but I have made great wheat, oat, and clover plots with 1 to 2 inches of till.  A chain harrow with mean teeth might be ok too.  They're under 200.  If your ph is really off, then you need a deeper till.

 

 

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A chain drag might be a good match for your Brute Force.  As others have suggested, the first year is the toughest.  It's important to get something planted, and go from there.  I have used brassicas to break up dense clay soil.  They didn't grow like crazy that first year, but they did alot of tilling for me when the roots grew down into the hard pack.  They added organic matter as well.  

Bill Winke's web show, Midwest Whitetail has some videos on what he calls "poor man plots".  He has developed a system for clearing and planting small plots in hidden areas.  He uses herbicide and fire to clear areas.  (I imagine he makes good use of free labor from his interns too) After that they rough up the ground with landscape rakes.  Broadcast seed and wait for rain.  

Just some ideas for you.  You will have to pick a strategy that works for you.  Good luck!

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This area was my first non trail plot...I broke ground with the tiller. Made several passes then used a chain link fence with logs wired to it pulled by the riding mower...still do some that way....though now,mostly done with a tractor disc and chain harrow..but for the first 5 years it was me and the Husqvarna tiller. Think we had a sears in there as well. Looked just as good then as it does now...but I did a section at a time so there was buckwheat next to clover next to grains next to brasiccas...pics are just different angles of that same plot

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1 hour ago, stubborn1VT said:

A chain drag might be a good match for your Brute Force.  As others have suggested, the first year is the toughest.  It's important to get something planted, and go from there.  I have used brassicas to break up dense clay soil.  They didn't grow like crazy that first year, but they did alot of tilling for me when the roots grew down into the hard pack.  They added organic matter as well.  

Bill Winke's web show, Midwest Whitetail has some videos on what he calls "poor man plots".  He has developed a system for clearing and planting small plots in hidden areas.  He uses herbicide and fire to clear areas.  (I imagine he makes good use of free labor from his interns too) After that they rough up the ground with landscape rakes.  Broadcast seed and wait for rain.  

Just some ideas for you.  You will have to pick a strategy that works for you.  Good luck!

All I have is time! This is my first owned land so I'm 100% understanding of the fact it will take a couple years to get it were I want it. I want to till and till and till, till I can till no more. I have I chain harrow to prepare the seed bed but with my lack of knowledge of farming equipment I was unaware of a cultivator or disk harrow being the best answer to my situation. I knew you guys and gals would come through thanks a lot. (Brassicas are on the menu fyi)

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Don't forget to choose plants the first 2 years that can work for you..read read read..buckwheat mines minerals with deep roots..handles poorer soils but delivers important growth nutrients to deer.....look for weed suppressing plants deer like...one's that help keep weed seeds from terminating...always remember soil health so you can ppl we imbalance things you can till in spring and still plant in fall without tilling..a roller is a hard thing to find used but a great great tool.

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Chain harrow is different than a chain link fence drag.  You could make great.plots of cereal grains or clovers with that alone.  Perfect for rocky places too.  Certain implements bring up rocks, tons of them.

 

I've done great with a single row disc, a garden tractor, a good weedwackers.  Look up plotspike forage feast.  Great little mix.  After seeding and covering it up, just top dress with a little bit of clover.  Red if your going to retill, or ladino to leave it alone for a few years 

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That depends on the tire tread you have...I have used both the mower and one of the ATV's. But a roller does a much better job,cultipacker even better. When looking to buy a Chain harrow find one that comes in sections..easier to transport but also shorter section comes in very handy..a good one is pretty darn heavy

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