moog5050

TTT - maybe I should hold a big buck contest this season and winner gets package. $75 entry fee capped at 25 people. Would 25 people be interested? Be kinda fun. Certainly would encourage you to hold out for that big guy.

Core The paper looks pretty good. I have had bows that tune with the pins to the left of the string when the string is lined up with the arrow from behind. Archers paradox and you may have a slightly stiff arrow. I would worry much with that paper (although a very slight adjustment of the rest to the left may make it perfect) and if the BHs and FP are hitting same POI to 50yds. Looks good. A consistent bow hand position is also very important as you suggest. For a 2nd year archer, you are picking things up quickly. Now go kill deer!

Trying to leave as much of the skin in tact from mid front legs and up obviously. De-sleeving the front legs can be a pain.

Carefully remove skin as far as I can down neck and then cut the meat and vertebrae. I let the taxi deal with removing the skin from there.

Trimming lanes last Sat and there was at least two scrapes that had already opened. Time is now.

What about 1-5 FSW, seems like that could be done much easier. lol Sounds like a nice trophy room.

Nice buck. Congrats. He looks content to be sitting on your wall!

Frustrations with shops is what prompted me to start doing it all on my own. I am happy I did. $100 would be fair if the shop is really going to spend two hours tuning the bow. Peep and loop take 5 minutes or 10 if you are slow like me. Most won't really tune and many archers won't know the difference between a really good tune and simply installing a rest and setting centershot to factory recommendations. I hope this shop does you right for that price.

Wow this thread went a bit off the tracks. I didn't read it all, but I guess most agree that there are areas with high deer populations where controlling those populations is difficult because large land tracks are owned by people or entities that either allow limited or no hunting. How to fix it, who knows. Will tax breaks work? Perhaps for some of these owners, but for some it may not. Will a business entity allow hunters on? Perhaps if the incentive is big enough. Would a lawyer recommend it, depends on the desire on the client. If the client says, I want to utilize this tax incentive because it will save me $200k a year in taxes (an example only), my response would be to advise of the risks (economic, suits, neighbor considerations, municipal relationships) of opening the land, and then after an informed discussion, the client would make the decision and I would do my best help the owner limit the risk if the client still wanted to utilize that incentive, be it releases, acknowledgement of assumed risks, and appropriate insurances. Lots at play here. There is no doubt that its tough to manage deer on lands where hunting is limited or prohibited. I still don't see how leasing equates to ruining conservation, but that seemed to stop being the topic at some point.

The idea is to have the BH and FP hitting same spot as you shoot farther away. BY doing so, you are adjusting the centershot on the rest so that the arrow is leaving with optimal energy (which will happen when the FP and BH hit the same spot no matter the distance).

210g German Kinetics from the recurve this year. I hope they perform as good as they look. Wicked sharp for sure.

At least you know its there and it will be treated and done! I literally thought I was having a heart attack when I passed a stone one time. It was extremely painful for such a small little thing. Best wishes for a painless and quick recovery.

If the BHs hit differently than the FP, you are losing energy on the shot. Try to move them together on the walk back tune. Shoot 3 of each at 30 and see where they land. Lets assume BHs group 4' right of FPs, then in small increments (testing in between each adjustment) move the rest to the left until they group together. If the BHs group left of FP, then move the rest right (towards riser). Once you have those BHs and FPs grouping together, move to 40yds and try the same thing. It should be much small rest adjustments if any. If 40yds is way beyond your range to group well, then start at 20 and move to 30. Forget about paper tuning at this point. Just get the FP and BH grouping well. If they are, your paper should be good. If its not, its a form issue, not the tune, and not something likely to be addressed before this season. Shooting only BH or FP and adjusting is not tuning but sighting in with your existing tune. I should mention that you want to shoot at the same spot, but either shoot your Bhs first or shoot the FP, remove the arrows and then shoot BHs and compare POI of groups. When you actually start grouping together, shooting BHs will cut the vanes of nearby arrows.

Core if the bow is tuned and DL is correct, fliers are all about improper alignment on a shot, which is often caused by failure to use your back to draw and instead using your shoulder and arm. Keep that forearm loose and close the gap in your draw elbow as soon as you can while drawing. Trying to close that gap early, will force you to draw in a straight line and use your back to draw, which will help with proper body alignment. Learning back tension is not an easy thing, but closing the gap in your drawing arm is the best way I have heard it explained. Some teach a rotational draw, which works but its not as easy to explain. I have found telling new archers to close that gap as soon as possible usually results in good back tension and alignment at anchor. Might be worth a try.

Great pull for anywhere. Good luck

No idea wildcats, I just know its not good for you.

Cutting for the best tune makes sense but I never understood the need to cut it as close to the rest as is possible to avoid overhang for more maneuverability. The majority of the arrow is still way out in front before drawing and typically in that position when maneuvering to position for a shot. I try not to have to move around while at full draw.

Ozone can damage your lungs. I wouldn't use that in the house.

Happy B Day Eddie

I am not sure that I hope I do - probably why I haven't advertised elsewhere. But if sells that's cool. It is a really good deal to anyone looking for a nice rifle in this price range.

not sure what is meant by leveling test but if you mean nock height, just use a square on your arrow and string at rest to confirm that its 90 degrees or slightly above and arrow is crossing berger. mark string on top of arrow knock and tie a nock point in there. I also tie one below and then install the d-loop outside of the nock points. Allows you to replace loop at same exact knock height if needed. Maybe leveling test means something else.

Congrats and enjoy. Shooting both will really make you appreciate more how much effort you put into shooting the stickbow just to shoot significantly less accurate than the compound. Nature of the beast. Both are still fun.

Very nice. Good luck with the business. My dog would have a field day with all those sheds. Chews them down to nothing.

if that swamp has cattails, try using a piece of plywood to flatten them, flip the plywood and do it again and again. Its how we cut entrance trails in the swamp and the flattened cattails tend to hold you up over the water/muck better than you would think. I actually prefer cutting a trail in cattails vs. thick brush. Its easy than it sounds. The trails have to be made very year around mid-august.

the field points generally move less than BHs when centershot is off. You might try nudging that rest to the left and see if it brings the BH closer to the FP. I have had it go both ways but I start by trying to move the BH towards the FP with the rest.