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First bow help

fadetoblack188

By fadetoblack188,
in Bow Hunting

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sweet old bill Newbie

sweet old bill

Posted
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go to aa local archery pro shop and have they measure you for a bow, key is draw length, also do not get over bowed, if you are starting a bow in the range of 50 to 60 lb will meet all your need for hunting anything in the USA. Once you have your draw length a good place to see a lot of high priced bows that are in your range of 400 dollars are listing on http://archerytalk.com

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gfdeputy2 Newbie

gfdeputy2

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best thing I can tell you is like the others said go to a Archery Pro shop

Try every bow you can in your price range don't worry about the brand name to much all the top name brand manufacturers make good quality bows to me it comes down to comfort & smooth draw I have had Martin, Hoyt & now a Mathews. I don't care what name is on it. if the bow does not feel good to you you will never have confidence in your shooting.  I would NOT buy a bow online without trying that model out first So if a bow shop won't let you try it go somewhere else. Any good bow shop will take the time to set them up for you to try

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firehunter48 Newbie

firehunter48

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best thing I can tell you is like the others said go to a Archery Pro shop

Try every bow you can in your price range don't worry about the brand name to much all the top name brand manufacturers make good quality bows to me it comes down to comfort & smooth draw I have had Martin, Hoyt & now a Mathews. I don't care what name is on it. if the bow does not feel good to you you will never have confidence in your shooting.  I would NOT buy a bow online without trying that model out first So if a bow shop won't let you try it go somewhere else. Any good bow shop will take the time to set them up for you to try

 

I agree with everyone when telling you to go to a pro shop and shoot as many as you can. I too did that and had the same exact budget that you did. I ended up ordering a PSE Stinger 3g PACKAGE staright from the PSE factory. The price was $399.99. it came complete ready to shoot minus arrows, including the whisker bisquit and sights you would like. the only thing i changed off of it was the bow sling and thats only becasue i make my own. I shoot mine at 60lbs with a 28.5" draw with gold tip velocity hunter 300 spine. I have it chrono'd at 290fps with 85 gr tips.

Shoot as many as you can but keep this in mind, that you can get brand new straight from the factory. the ONLY thing I do not like about this bow is the weight. it is a tad heavier than most but truly does the job on a deer when you let one fly

 

just my $.02

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Elmo Rookie

Elmo

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Is $400 your limit for the cost of the bow or $400 your absolute limit?  You also need to consider cost for arrows, broadheads, release, case, etc.

 

Go to several local bow shops and try some bows out.  I tried several bows within the same class of price and quality and went with the one that simply felt right in my hands.

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thphm Newbie

thphm

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Looking to purchase my first bow. I'd like the spend right around 400 If there is anything decent for thAt price. I would like it to have a whisker basket and sights to.

What would you guys recommend?

I was looking into the Bear outbreak rth

 

Where are you located ?. I have a Mathews MQ 1 . In the range that SOB said.

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DanceswithSkunks Newbie

DanceswithSkunks

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If you're never shot a bow, I would seriously recommend an older wheel bow. You get a hard cam bow and bad habits will show up with it. Heaven forbid...The T word... Target Panic. If you can find an old Jennings T Star you'll pay around $100 for the bow. If it has an Ace in the Hole quiver that goes with it that would make the deal even sweater. Those quivers are the best I have ever used. Get your draw length measured. Most competent bow shops should have a 10# draw weight recurve they use for measuring draw length. If there is any doubt what your draw length is make sure it can be reduced. You get clothing on to hunt with and things change. My draw length is 29" but my bows are set to 28.5 "  A shorter draw length will help you with back tension and pulling through on your release and follow through.

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_kw=Jennings+T+Star+Compound+Bow

 

 

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dbHunterNY Proficient

dbHunterNY

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first go to a proshop and get measured for drawlength and how much poundage you're comfortable with.  if you don't have one near you...

 

you can find drawlength as follows at home:  measure your wing span from finger tip to finger tip.  your arms should be fully extended but relaxed.  take wing span number and divide that by 2.5 to get draw length.  another way is to take wing span, substract 15, and then divide by 2 to get draw length.  I like to do both and then take the average of the two.  whatever you get for a number, round down to the nearest 1/2".  that's the increments most bows draw lengths can be set to.

 

to figure out poundage you'd need to pull a bow back at the shop.  the maximum draw weight you can pull back, while sitting upright in a chair, with your feet exended straight out, and off the floor, is the weight you should have your bow set to.  most are adjustable with a range of 10lbs.

 

that would help you know if a used bow on archerytalk or ebay will fit you.  now is the time to buy at a shop as there's leftovers and trade ins from others getting new bows.  search around for a specific used bow on either site and you'll have an idea of ballpark cost.  stick to a bow with a braceheight 6.5" or more.

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DanceswithSkunks Newbie

DanceswithSkunks

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Maximum draw weight can also be determined by extending your bow arm straight out and drawing the bow back as slow as possible without moving your bow arm above horizontal. I've seen so many guys "Sky Launching" their bows. They point it up in the air and yank it back for all it's worth then bring it down and try to find their anchor point and everything else.  I shot tournament for years and when I started a practice session the first ten arrows were shot with my eyes closed. I had excelsior bales stacked 6' high I got 5 feet away and focused on my form with my eyes closed. There was no sight picture. Just form on the draw anchor hold release and follow through.

 

I would pick up a used wheel bow now and practice with it till next summer then consider another bow closer to the season next year. Equipment doesn't make the archer. 

 

If you're going with a release versus fingers I would recommend a Fletchmatic Concho Rope release. It prevents string torque the same as the string loops guys install on their bowstrings to use with caliper releases. A string loop just adds more weight to the string. My string has 1 knock point and a peep sight. No silencers tubing hanging off the peep etc. 

 

http://fletcherarchery.com/products/release-aids/fletchmatic-concho/

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azhuntress Newbie

azhuntress

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I agree with everyone about draw weight.  Don't try to be a tough guy and pull way too much weight.  You'll just wear yourself out and get discouraged.  A 50-60 pound bow will be sufficient.  With modern bows a high draw weight just isn't necessary.  For example, I only pull 47 pounds and my arrows zip right through a deer without a problem. 

As the others have said, nowadays bows are made so well that one isn't necessarily better than another.

I shot my first deer with a York Rampage 18 years ago and have since shot Martin, Darton, Hoyt, Bowtech Mathews and PSE.  Every single one of them was a good bow and I wouldn't hesitate to own another one.

As someone else said, be sure the brace height is 6.5 inches or above.  That will make the bow more forgiving and you will shoot it better.

Once you do figure out what bow you will shoot, be sure to get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing.  This will ensure your arrows are flying straight and it will make your arrow groups tighter.

Good luck with your search.  Shooting a bow is lots of fun and you will love it!

 

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Arrow Flinger Newbie

Arrow Flinger

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If you're never shot a bow, I would seriously recommend an older wheel bow. You get a hard cam bow and bad habits will show up with it. Heaven forbid...The T word... Target Panic. If you can find an old Jennings T Star you'll pay around $100 for the bow. If it has an Ace in the Hole quiver that goes with it that would make the deal even sweater. Those quivers are the best I have ever used. Get your draw length measured. Most competent bow shops should have a 10# draw weight recurve they use for measuring draw length. If there is any doubt what your draw length is make sure it can be reduced. You get clothing on to hunt with and things change. My draw length is 29" but my bows are set to 28.5 "  A shorter draw length will help you with back tension and pulling through on your release and follow through.

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_kw=Jennings+T+Star+Compound+Bow

 

You cant possibly be serious? He might as well buy a recurve if he's gonna get one of those old relics. You need to get the best equipment you can afford. If you can afford a $300 modern bow why would you buy a $100 antique? Listen to most everyones advice on here and go to a pro shop and shoot as many different bows as you can. From there, the bow usually picks you.

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