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Taking the plunge


cdmckane
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"lmao you guys just cant seem to grasp the FACT that you dont change a bows draw length with a dloop. PERIOD"

 

I understand the "bow" doesn't change

 

"then they would ask if you will be using a loop and set you up with the correct release and draw length bow."

 

Exactly  you get it!  because a release and D-Loop will effect what drawlength bow you order.

 

 

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No, it will effect what release you use. Why in the world would you go for a shorter draw length bow, that will not give you the other proper anchor points (most people have more than one) and a shorter power stroke (less speed, ke, etc) if you dont have any reason other than what release you are using? Just get a shorter length release, or adjust your one anchor point.

 

BTW, the bows draw length doesnt change, and the length of the archers draw doesnt either. 29" is 29".

 

 

Ugh, I cant help myself lol

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Take a traditional shooter that has always anchored his hand on a certain feature on his face. He uses his figures, and doesn't use a release. He's done this for as long as he can remember, and shoots excellent. His DL is 29"

Now enters the compound bow, with a D-loop and release aide. Unfortunately for him, he purchased one that isn't adjustable. He'd like to keep his age old anchor point,

After all, that's where he feels most confident. But there's a problem, his new accessories have now shortened his .... Wait for it.... Draw length!

I'm not stating that I agree with this(this ones for you WNYBH) but I'm trying to show how some things work for some people, regardless if it doesn't seem "proper". As a matter of fact, I haven't stated my stance on the matter, just that my opinion is that hunters can't see past their own perspective most of the time. Ironically, Belo gets it. Big shocker for sure. Must be a full moon or something.

Carry on.

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You keep compensating with other devices.

 

If I keep everything the same except one bow has d-loop and the other doesn"t (shooting off string) The bow with the d-loop will have a shorter drawlength.

 

This is simple.

No, it doesn't. A 29" DL bow with a DLoop and one without are the same DL.

 

Good grief!

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"I haven't quite pinpointed it yet, but after reading all this I've come to the conclusion that something changes........."

 

Exactly!  And since the original poster doesn't have anything to "change" cause he is starting new, the bow must be adjusted to what he is going to using (fingers, different releases and yes the dreaded D-Loop.)

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If Rick Barry ever followed the "proper" way to shoot a free throw he would never had broken so many free throw records.

 

I will still teach people to people to shoot a free throw the proper way but I understand some people are just unique.  That's what makes us human.

 

PS: For those who don't know, Rick Barry shoots his free throws with two hands, under handed (like the way a toddler would roll a ball in bowling).

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Doc you are really amazing, I give you credit for not acknowledging you are wrong, bravo!

 

I love it when the engineer comes out in you when you don't understand something.

 

 

Let me go measure something and call it physics, haha

You never do really add anything to any conversations on here do you? When you don't know what is being discussed, flame away. It's too bad that we always have to wade through your nonsense every time we try to have an intelligent discussion. But, that's just the nature of internet forums there are always a certain number of members that just get their kicks out of that sort of thing.

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The wall is in the same place in the draw regardless of D Loop, no? Last time I checked the wall is at the end of the cycle regardless.

 

The force draw curve does not change, your ability to reach it is what changes when you add in the D-loop unless you correspondingly increase your anchor point to compensate. Why is that such a difficult concept to understand. Are you trying to tell me that you could add as much D-loop as you wanted and never have it upset your established anchor point, and still approach the same point on the curve? Come on. As an instant replay, go back to the exaggerated 3" D-loop example discussed a while ago and tell me where you would be on the force draw curve if you didn't change your anchor? If that don't do it for you imagine a 12" D-loop. At some point it all has to come clear to you.

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The force draw curve does not change, your ability to reach it is what changes when you add in the D-loop unless you correspondingly increase your anchor point to compensate. Why is that such a difficult concept to understand. Are you trying to tell me that you could add as much D-loop as you wanted and never have it upset your established anchor point, and still approach the same point on the curve? Come on. As an instant replay, go back to the exaggerated 3" D-loop example discussed a while ago and tell me where you would be on the force draw curve if you didn't change your anchor? If that don't do it for you imagine a 12" D-loop. At some point it all has to come clear to you.

 

So tell me why archers wiser than all of us do not accommodate DL because of Dloops?

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You never do really add anything to any conversations on here do you? When you don't know what is being discussed, flame away. It's too bad that we always have to wade through your nonsense every time we try to have an intelligent discussion. But, that's just the nature of internet forums there are always a certain number of members that just get their kicks out of that sort of thing.

 

Really I not only told you why you are wrong I posted a link to a video explaining why you are wrong. You CANNOT admit that you are wrong....ever. That is your personality trait.

 

When in doubt repeat what you already said in essay form, maybe if you do that you won't be wrong any more.

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It still wouldnt affect their draw length. I know what you are trying to say, you are just using the wrong terms. If you add a dloop, youd want to adjust the length of your release to keep your anchor point, not the bow. If you shorten the draw length of the bow, you lose speed, etc.

 

I agree, whatever works.

Frankly, if I were putting good money into a new bow, I would go into the bow-shop and tell the guy hand me a bow with a D-loop already installed, and give me that release over there, I'll pull it back and you measure me up for draw length and order a bow of that draw length. That's the kind of thing that the OP was asking about and that was my recommendation. I would not recommend that anyone be measured up for draw length with known elements of that length being left out. Why on earth would I do that? I do not want to start off by changing this and adjusting that. Just put the stuff on there and get it right the first time. Why does that concept confuse anybody? 

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Orion,

 

What you need to do is go to a shop. Stop listening to the back and forth here on the interweb. Go to a professional. Try out and pick a release and have him suggest an anchor point. I use the corner of my mouth and my nose. You need 2. Then have him measure you. It's really pretty simple and I'm sure that like me, 90% of others have done the same thing when they got measured.

 

From there, start looking for a bow that's in your price range. I'm a Matthews leg humper, so I can't recommend anything else but most bows today are well made. Most pro shops will sell Matthews, and dicks will not. That's because Matthews wants a professional to sell you the right bow, not a pimple faced kid at walmart.

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. Try out and pick a release and have him suggest an anchor point. I use the corner of my mouth and my nose. You need 2. Then have him measure you. It's really pretty simple and I'm sure that like me, 90% of others have done the same thing when they got measured.

 

.

 

How about three, string to nose, corner of mouth and where your hand touches your face.

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