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Anyone order trees for spring?


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I would buy live stake cuttings of RedOiser dogwood and some willows.  Do you have pictures of your white spruce trees?

SplitG2,

Just found some picts from last spring. The spruce you see is three years old. Most of the seedlings took and are all different sizes. The majority are the size in the picture.

Burt

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Great info... I have access issues on some property and was rethinking trying to plant a plot of say clover or brassica. I'm now thinking of planting some apple and pear trees. Why does it seem more people are planting crabapple than say red or gold delicious? And I don't hear much about people planting pears... why not?

I am definitely going to find some places for some chestnuts and hazelnuts as I think I'll be able to reap some rewards from them sooner than most other trees/shrubs Thoughts?

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Crabapples are easier to take care of over time, the fruit hold onto the trees for longer and they can do a bit better in less than ideal conditions.

Be careful with Walnut trees, they will attract squirrels more than anything and once they start spreading, they become hard to get rid of. At my father's place, we used to have no walnut trees at all, then one sprouted up about 10 or 15 years ago and started producing nuts. Now, the squirrels bury the nuts all over the place and many of them sprout into trees. They are popping up all over the property, usually in places we dont want them to, and they are filthy dirty trees. Id rather have hazelnuts and oaks or fruit trees. Just my experience with them.

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CBX, MDC has good quality trees. I order from them. When you place your order they will ask you when you want them delivered. I get mine the end of March to the first week in April. Once, they come keep them in the packages in a dark place and get them in the ground no more than 7 days. Good luck. Don't forget about tree tubes.

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Over the past 3 years, I've planted Sawtooth oaks, Gobbler sawtooth oaks, and Chinese chestnuts. There are no oaks on my property or any surrounding properties, so I went with the fast growing/heavy annual acorn producing sawtooth's. Figured I probably wouldn't live long enough to see any red or white oaks produce.
Sawtooths,...... I have then going into, I think there 8th year. Growing pretty good but not a nut to be seen. I read somewhere last year that is just too cold in WNY for them, but maybe you'll get lucky.

White pines grow fast like the Austrian, but I prefer the White spruce. I planted 100 or so in 8 x 8' 10 years ago and now there 10' high or so and a great home to many a song bird.

Edited by scobar
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For those thinking of apples, Wafler's in Wolcott (http://www.waflernursery.com/inventory.php) offer a "deer pack" of 10 various trees. I have 140 trees planted at our roadside orchard and 40 from Wafler's in my wild plantings. They never offered a disease resistant pack before this year so the 40 I have (planted over the past 4 years) are standard. I tried to eat a golden russett, crispin or Spitzenberg on the way to my stand each time this year (the 3 and 4 year old wildlife trees had a good crop this year) . They have them on good rootstocks (B118 - precocious, but grow out of browse height quick). Bill, the nursery guy, is a big time hunter (don't think the cummins guys are from my past orders with them) so he has his packs with early ripening apples, mid season and then a lot of late season apples to keep the deer around. One piece of advice, think about fencing them in, and mouse guards (spiral) are not an option - must have. I have switched (some by grafting, some by replanting) a lot of my older orchard trees to disease resistant trees - I only have to spray for bugs, not fungicides (or much reduced). They have Crabs too, mostly (I think) for pollination, but if you want a really good pollinator Winter Banana (late ripener, regular apple, not a crab) is a good one. HoneyGold sticks on the tree and is really cold resistant so it's a good one too...

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Be careful with Walnut trees, they will attract squirrels more than anything and once they start spreading, they become hard to get rid of. At my father's place, we used to have no walnut trees at all, then one sprouted up about 10 or 15 years ago and started producing nuts.

Walnuts can be very bad for they produce a substance in their leaves and roots that is a plant inhibitor....

Plants that cannot tolerate juglone will show symptoms such as yellowing, wilting foliage. Juglone acts as a respiration inhibitor, sapping a plant's energy and leaving it unable to breathe. Plants that cannot tolerate juglone will eventually give up and die. Plants that are extremely sensitive to juglone may fail in as little as two weeks.

"Although juglone is produced in the trees, roots, all parts of a black walnut tree contain the toxin, with the strongest concentration in the buds and nut hulls. Black walnut trees have a habit of dropping leaves, nuts and twigs from late summer through autumn and this debris adds to the juglone levels in the soil beneath the trees. Rain dripping from the leaves also adds juglone to the soil, making the entire drip zone beneath the tree a hazardous environment for juglone-sensitive plants.

Cutting down the offending tree won't solve the problem, as the roots will continue to release juglone into the soil, making the area toxic for several years after the tree is gone. Debris from black walnut trees should not be added to compost, nor should the wood or bark be used for mulch.

English walnut trees produce a small amount of juglone, but usually not so much that it is toxic to surrounding plants. Carpathian walnut trees, however, are sometimes grafted onto the rootstock of either black walnut or butternut trees. If a Carpathian walnut tree is grafted onto a juglone-producing tree, the Carpathian walnut will also produce toxic juglone.

The good news is that not all plants are sensitive to juglone. Many trees, shrubs, flowers and vegetables will grow near a black walnut tree, although even some of the juglone-resistant plants will still struggle if they are directly beneath the tree.

Plants which are extremely sensitive to juglone won't thrive within fifty feet of the drip line of black walnut trees. These include hydrangeas, silver maple, white birches, apple trees, Norway spruce, Mugo pine, mountain laurels, most azaleas, lilacs, blueberries and blackberries, cabbage and broccoli, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes and rhubarb."

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I go with the replanting of wild apples from our places and hazel nuts...I finally got the gobbler oaks to grow...buck came in this year and rubbed the bark off them :fie: .....I have several 8 ft high persimmon and you've seen the mulberry pics...I'm planting a bunch more blueberry plants ...now that I'm fencing off the one neighbor...this will give me a much bigger planting area...if timber prices would PLEASE go up ...I'd have more space to plant....but you can't beat the non edible elder plant...the deer just hammer them and they grow like crazy

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Is it ok to put the small seedlings that come from MDC in the 5' "vented tree tubes"? I figure if you put a seedling in the tube by the time it grows out of the top of that tube it has a good head start on browseing.

http://www.plantra.com/buynow/bntreeshelterO.php

Also the wild life packs from Wafler how tall are the trees when they are shipped?

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I'm torn between planting American or Chinese Chestnut. trees From what I have read, the fungus is still in the American strain. Only have room for a half dozen trees, so what to do? Going with a few Red Mallberry trees also. Always was going to plant some, for some reason, never doing it.

Edited by landtracdeerhunter
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I see your in Niagra county....so I'm assuming zone 6 and windy....

Chinese chestnuts ...hazel and mulberry...every thing took a really long time to get a foot hold but I'm on a west sloping hill(1900ft) and the winter winds are brutal here as well as the deer.....my Mulberries are now producing great after years of being small as well as the hazel nuts...and those I have been able to use the suckers from...for I let them grow as bushes not trees to plant in other areas.... ...all of a sudden they took off and in in two years shot up 10ft and produce like mad...they do need some pruning....the chestnuts still struggling ...planted both american and meader persimmons and same thing ...but now I have a few 9ft trees.....so...I highly recommend that you invest in some sort of tree tube...like Plantara.......which is something I didn't but am going to this year for new plantings....you won't regret the mulberries both the turkey and deer love them...as well as raccoons....

I try to plant areas as a succession group....I'm lucky in that our property is loaded with wild fruits and the spring we have areas that are just a carpet of wild strwaberries...every thing including us love them...then well the list is long but I plant to keep the deer interested all spring -summer long and have blue berries...buying more....aronia ...mulberries...peaches....pears...cherries several summer thru Oct apples...dogwood....quince...sasafrass...ect....with the vines as they get bigger and you need to prune...root your cuttings...and brush that sucker ...they can be removed with roots attached....saves money down the road ;)

If you don't have elderberies ...I highly reccomend them and not just the late summer edible ones ...but the wild spring -summer reds....besides being a YEAR around food souce....for the deer and early food for the turkey...the buck on our place just love to rub them...great thing about that...they can seeminging destroy the entire bush...but then the next summer they are 6ft tall again...as long as they get enough sun...they are an under story plant...find someone that has them and dig several...they spread well...

Edited by growalot
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Good idea on the hazel. Never give them a thought. I tend to use zone 5, as we tend to run colder, being away from the lake a ways. Rather play it safe, then sorry. Chinese chestnut sounds like a safer choice, by what I've read. Funny you mention Quince apples. Old time apple. Got a big old tree on the farm, the deer don't leave an apple on the ground. Always produces every year. Most people I've talked to, have never heard of them. This tree is bird planted, but looks like original. Sounds like your place is a ideal habitat for wildlife.

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We are blessed....seems like every year I find something new growing....the woods are loaded with current and goose berry brush...All very small ..but when Idig them up and put them in areas of good balanced soil and SUN...wow in a couple of years I have 5ft bushes loaded with fruit....there are large areas of mayapples...suprised we don't have more bear actually...and wid ginger and herbs...though wht oak for some reason doesn't do well here ....Our red oaks are generouse enough to have trees producing on alternating years so every year at least a few have acorns...down side...with this soil if there is a soil borne disease to be had ...we seem to have it and are loosing alot of trees to things like canker...our beech have been hit hard and the sugar maples have now been attacked by a canker....I liken this stuff to the numerous shiny plastic helium ballooons I have to pick up several times a year here.....if it's air born to the west of us....it will land on us...be it balloon ....seeds ...or disease...Mother nature

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