? about Bows

[jimbodwb]

I am gonna start bow hunting next year. What would be a good first bow? I figure on getting a used bow to start. I can only spend at most $300 on the bow itself. I then have another $300 to get the arrows, broadheads, target, harness, and treestand. I would just like to know what brands are good. I know Mathews is the best but I will never get one for $300, even used. I heard Martin Archery is good and so is Mission. Any suggestions?

[Santamour123]

I shoot Bowtech. But my cousin bought a used parker wildfire package for $300 this september.  I'll say it is a smooth drawing bow.  And shoots quite well.  He has already got 3 robinhoods with it.

[Bballhunter11]

Buy a darton maverick off ebay for about 100 bucks. This is a great bow at a cheap price and it shoots fast, then use left over money to get good accessories instead of cheap ones and then u can carry the good accessories over when u get a new bow. Buying cheap sights rests and other parts is only going to cause u headaches and cost more in the long run.

Parker, Mission and Martin all also have very good starter bows.

[skyzmine]

head to your local bow shop and get fitted 1st.

there you can shoot many bows and find the one you like.

[5.9cummins]

Take a look at huntersfriend.com - there are a ton of good bow / how to articles. As far as bows go i wouldnt concentrate on brand much. They are all going to throw arows and kill deer. I shoot a Diamond (cheap bowtech), my neighbor shoots mathews, one budy shoots hoyt another PSE - we all kill deer.

Things to focus on are get the largest peep you can along with large sight pins which will help you in low light. Get a large brace height (brace height is the distance between your string and riser). The larger the brace height the more forgiving.

Dont get caught up with the speed craze or the macho man 70+ lb draw weights they are not that important.

I would rather have a slower bow that is extremely accurate than a fast bow that is really touchy.

Speed = high draw weight and a short brace height which results in a touchy bow.

Another thing i would suggest is going with a heavy arrow (better than 10 grains per inch) - this too is a no no with the speed crowd but a heavy arrow retains momentum better than a light one.

Momentum = penetration (dont get this confused with Kinetic Energy)

I would go with carbon arrows vs aluminum and a fixed blade broadhead as well. Carbon is more durable and fixed heads have better penetration.

And for those of you who are going to bash me because rages are the best thing since sliced bread your entitled to your opinion but so am I.

You got any other questions feel free to PM me.

And i second the comments about buying used on Archerytalk.com - great deals.

[Doewhacker]

I bought a new, last years model Parker Wildfire kit for $294 last spring from Gandermtn. There are plenty of bows in the lower price range, and they shot the same as the Mattews. Just don't tell a Matthews fan club member that.haha My wildfire as a 7 3/4 inch brace height and weighs 3.75 pounds..I like it.

[rock]

make sure it set up for you try to find some one that knows how to set up a bow properly if you do not have that ask away i will help all i can

[jimbodwb]

Thanks everyone, I am gonna check out Gander Mountain for the Parker Kit. I went to the Archerytalk.com site. Lots of info but I could not find any for sale items. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place. I will look harder when I have more time. I read that to find my draw length I just measure my arms tip of middle finger to tip of other middle finger and then divide by 2.5. If this is correct then my draw length is 28.5. Knowing this, could I buy a used bow on ebay with this draw length or should I get one that is adjustable?

[First-light]

My brother bought the PSE Stnger kit for $300, worth checking out. I like this bow for a beginner, very quite and forgiving.

[Localqdm]

Take a look at huntersfriend.com - there are a ton of good bow / how to articles. As far as bows go i wouldnt concentrate on brand much. They are all going to throw arows and kill deer. I shoot a Diamond (cheap bowtech), my neighbor shoots mathews, one budy shoots hoyt another PSE - we all kill deer.

Things to focus on are get the largest peep you can along with large sight pins which will help you in low light. Get a large brace height (brace height is the distance between your string and riser). The larger the brace height the more forgiving.

Dont get caught up with the speed craze or the macho man 70+ lb draw weights they are not that important.

I would rather have a slower bow that is extremely accurate than a fast bow that is really touchy.

Speed = high draw weight and a short brace height which results in a touchy bow.

Another thing i would suggest is going with a heavy arrow (better than 10 grains per inch) - this too is a no no with the speed crowd but a heavy arrow retains momentum better than a light one.

Momentum = penetration (dont get this confused with Kinetic Energy)

I would go with carbon arrows vs aluminum and a fixed blade broadhead as well. Carbon is more durable and fixed heads have better penetration.

And for those of you who are going to bash me because rages are the best thing since sliced bread your entitled to your opinion but so am I.

You got any other questions feel free to PM me.

And i second the comments about buying used on Archerytalk.com - great deals.

Cummins gave you some real good advice.  Frankly, older bows of lesser names that are not 300+fps kill deer just as dead as a brand new $1000 bow.  The most important thing is to get one in decent shape that YOU are comfortable with because it fits you (drawlength, weight) and get it tuned.  Pretty much any bow in decent shape will drill bullseyes if it is tuned correctly and has the right arrows.  That is probably the next most important issue is to make sure your arrows are the right spine for your bow, or it will never shoot consistently accurate.

Keep it simple.  Many dealers will tell you that you need to spend a lot on a brand name, then they will talk you into the best drop away rest and a fancy $100 sight.  I like the wisker biscuit because its simple and little can go wrong.  and Just remember at the end of the day, a pin is a pin and if you want to spend that kind of money, that's your decision. 

Have fun, learn proper technique, keep practicing.

[WNYBuckHunter]

My advice, dont bother buying a new bow, check on Archerytalk.com in the classifieds section, there are usually great deals on used bows and packages in there. Dont buy on Craigslist, they are almost always more money on there than on AT or ebay. Before you buy, make sure to get sized at a good proshop. Find out what your draw length is, etc. Other than that, once you get setup, practice, practice, practice, and practice some more. Then, when you think youve practiced enough and are getting pretty good, practice more. 

[Geno C]

check craigslist... i find nice bow packages on there for around that price with case and arrows. you can even find a mathews used around there. an older one tho...

[phade]

Archerytalk....best place hands down for the budget.

Jan-Mar is the best time to buy because most places are turning over 2010s and people are getting rid of bows for 2011 purchases. But, I would first find the best, msot reputable, and friendly pro shop. Buying the bow is easy, getting it set up (for a first time bowhunter) is priceless.

Just now on AT, was a 2008 Martin Moab loaded and ready to rock at $225, and it's dl adjustable. Came with sight, rest, etc. Get yourself a release, some arrows, and a setup/tune, and your flinging them.

[Doc]

I have never bought any bow that I didn't at least hold in my hand and draw. And most of them I actually shot before buying. If you are planning on spending limited dollars, and buying a used bow for a first one, it probably is not as important as when or if you decide to upgrade to a newer, more expensive bow. After some time shooting, you will settle in on certain things that are important to you when it comes to how a bow "handles". These are little nuances that are sort of personal choices or preferences and cannot be determined through written bow tests and advertisements in catalogs or internet sources. Also, when dealing with used bows, hands on, pre-purchase experience might allow you to look for troubles before you buy. Hairline cracks in limbs or leaning cams, or strings and cables that have not been properly maintained or are in need of replacement, as well as cosmetic problems cannot be seen in pictures. Complaining about such things after the sale and shipment may not do a whole lot of good depending on whether or not the seller agrees that the problems are really problems.

Also, if at all possible, when buying a used bow, take someone along that has been shooting a while and is familiar with what some of these problems actually look like.

[fasteddie]

Also , if you take a knowledgable person along to help look at a bow , take someone who is open minded . I know guys that will state , "if it isn't a Bowtech , it's a piece of crap" , blah , blah , blah . The same with other bows . There are a lot of excellant manufacturers out there .

I probably wouldn't have looked at Ben Pearson bows . I spent $30 on 3 raffle tickets and won one . I think the bow is great ,

A friend of mine on another site does product reviews . He sold me a Limbsaver bow for $300 that my son bought . My son took 2 deer with that bow this year shooting 830 grain arrows . He was ready to drop $1400 on a Bowtech but the shop owner was too busy to spend any time to talk to me .

[fasteddie]

I hope you meant 380 grain arrows. 830 grain arrows would be like shooting telephone poles out of your bow! ???

No , I meant 830 grain arrows ! You can hear those babies hit ! GrizzleyStix arrows with single bevel 2 blade broadheads and brass weights .

[erussell]

head to your local bow shop and get fitted 1st.

there you can shoot many bows and find the one you like.

And they just love it when they spend all that time on you and you walk out the door. 

[Fantail]

jimbodwb; Depending on where you are in cny I can think of a few shops you can look at. AJ's is out past Cazenovia, Legends of the Fall I think just south of Tully & even Ra-Lins can help set you up. If you can set aside a few minutes with a tech have them watch your draw and make correction recomendations etc. Some shops have indoor ranges, or you might look into a club that has one. If your anywhere near Fulton I can recomend one