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Who still shoots feathers?


NonTypical
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I've been having issues for the last few years once in a while with feathers staying glued on my aluminum shafts. It has been very random up until this year. The last 4 times I have had different people fletch my arrows with pretty much the same result. Usually after some time the fletching will start to separate from the shaft, and it won't always start from the leading edge. I just noticed yesterday one my arrows in my quiver started to separate from the rear of the shaft. I had tested this arrow 3-4 weeks ago with multiple target shots and it held up fine. 

I do shoot a whisker biscuit, but I do not think that is my issue and I really do not want to change it. I also shoot fixed blades and have no interest in getting away from them.

i've been shooting this combination for as long as I can remember with very consistent results. I have tried the smaller shrink tube vanes, but they don't fly well with my setup. I still have a bunch of old target arrows that I shoot with feathers from years ago and they will not come off at all. The last batch that I had fletched, the shafts were dipped and prepped prior to fletching. We even used a different type of fletch tite. Still no good. 

Has there been a change made with fletch tite? Does anyone use a superglue like crazy glue or gorilla glue?

I guess I'm old school and I'm set in my ways, but I like what I shoot as far as WB, aluminums, feathers, and fixed blades. If there was one thing that I had to change, I would probably go back to vanes if I had to if it meant keeping them on the shaft. But I would really like to find a solution to keeping the feathers attached. 

Has anyone else come across this issue?

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Other than being sure after scraping off the old feathers and glue, use some sort of cleaner for the shafts to make a solid surface for the glue to adhere too. I use to use feathers many years ago when I shot fingers, and I fletched my own. Now, with the vanes on the market, I never looked back. Feathers are lighter for sure, but they are much noisier, prone to problems in wet weather, and mostly not as durable as vanes. I commend you for still using them.

Tip: Since your using a WB rest, stay away from any of the so called "Quick Spin" vanes and stick with Blazers. Also, I see that with a WB set up, you must seat your arrow on your bow with the one vane in the "Top or up" position for them to work properly. The "bottom portion" of a WB rest's bristles are very hard compared to the other sections, so avoid sending any vanes through the bottom section on this style of rest. Hope this helps ...P

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16 minutes ago, maytom said:

Other than being sure after scraping off the old feathers and glue, use some sort of cleaner for the shafts to make a solid surface for the glue to adhere too. I use to use feathers many years ago when I shot fingers, and I fletched my own. Now, with the vanes on the market, I never looked back. Feathers are lighter for sure, but they are much noisier, prone to problems in wet weather, and mostly not as durable as vanes. I commend you for still using them.

Tip: Since your using a WB rest, stay away from any of the so called "Quick Spin" vanes and stick with Blazers. Also, I see that with a WB set up, you must seat your arrow on your bow with the one vane in the "Top or up" position for them to work properly. The "bottom portion" of a WB rest's bristles are very hard compared to the other sections, so avoid sending any vanes through the bottom section on this style of rest. Hope this helps ...P

I have always found that feathers were more forgiving than vanes. And with the WB they always flew better. As far as problems in wet weather, I've never had a problem. In fact I have even tested them by soaking them in water and shooting them. Never had a problem with accuracy with wet feathers. 

I have tried the Blazers, but they just don't fly well with my broadheads. And I do set my nock feather in the 12 o clock position. 

I plan on buying my own jig and experimenting with different glues for feathers before next year. If I have to I will go back to vanes as a last resort. 

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I went to arrowrap.com and see that they are adhesive wraps. I also see that the lightweight 7" wrap is only 4.5 grains and the next one is 7 grains. The heaviest reflective vinyl comes in at 30.25 grains. I may have to try these. And some loctite gel. 

Moog, what kind of feathers do you shoot? Truflight or Gateway?

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I am right with you when it comes to feathers,  seems people are quick to criticize them except the guys that have shot them for years. Were the smart ones :taunt:.... 

ok I use the 91% or better isopropyl alcohol to clean my shafts and I have very good results with superglue gel, but for last few years I have been using the bohning feather fletch tape with a drop of glue on the front and rear of the feather.

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I shot feathers and aluminum arrows since I started bow hunting up until this year. I lost a few arrows last year , damage wise, and I was too cheap to go out and buy more. I switched to some carbons that my neighbor had lying around so I tuned my bow to them. They had regular vanes and worked well at the targets but I never got to shoot them at a deer this year. I'd love to go back to aluminum with feathers using a WB rest. I currently have a drop away rest on the bow.

Let me ask you this, with the WB rest, don't the feathers get crushed down by the brushes? I received a WB along time ago and mounted it on my bow and tried to knock an arrow and all of the feathers were smooshed down in the WB style rest. I thought this would affect the draw and the flight so I changed it back off. Can you post a pic of what your set up looks like with an arrow knocked for reference for me? Ill try to find the one I have when I tested it.

101_0899.jpg

101_0898.jpg

Edited by Zem18
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27 minutes ago, Zem18 said:

I shot feathers and aluminum arrows since I started bow hunting up until this year. I lost a few arrows last year , damage wise, and I was too cheap to go out and buy more. I switched to some carbons that my neighbor had lying around so I tuned my bow to them. They had regular vanes and worked well at the targets but I never got to shoot them at a deer this year. I'd love to go back to aluminum with feathers using a WB rest. I currently have a drop away rest on the bow.

Let me ask you this, with the WB rest, don't the feathers get crushed down by the brushes? I received a WB along time ago and mounted it on my bow and tried to knock an arrow and all of the feathers were smooshed down in the WB style rest. I thought this would affect the draw and the flight so I changed it back off. Can you post a pic of what your set up looks like with an arrow knocked for reference for me? Ill try to find the one I have when I tested it.

101_0899.jpg

101_0898.jpg

Is that a  magnatec or mt sport ( I killed a bunch of deer with my magnatec ) with the built in overdraw shelf it would put the biscuit to close to the fletching. Any other bow with out the built in over draw should be fine . 

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Its an Ultratech and that's what I thought. The 3" overdraw put it in the wrong place. I knew it didn't look right or feel right so I removed it. I was fairly new to bow hunting then and was trying to learn on my own. Hell Im still new to all the technology but you cant learn unless you ask right. Thanks for the clarification.

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2 hours ago, NonTypical said:

I went to arrowrap.com and see that they are adhesive wraps. I also see that the lightweight 7" wrap is only 4.5 grains and the next one is 7 grains. The heaviest reflective vinyl comes in at 30.25 grains. I may have to try these. And some loctite gel. 

Moog, what kind of feathers do you shoot? Truflight or Gateway?

I use truflight feathers. 4" with a rt helical.   The wraps I use are cheap white 7" wraps from eBay.  Around $5 for 12.  Lay the wrap adhesive side up on a mouse pad or similar foam, position the arrow on the edge and roll it over on the wrap.   Keeps them nice and neat. 

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I have always used feathers, and have had a whisker biscuit for years now. My feathers are put on by my bow man, and I have never had them come off. I can't remember if he uses alcohol or acetone to prep the arrow, but they stay on. The arrows I shoot in league I have used for several years. The feathers are worn to hell, but they are still glued to the shaft. The other guys can't believe I still shoot them, but there are only four that consistently shoot higher than me, I just don't want to use new arrows on something that doesn't matter.

As for hunting in the weather, rain and snow seem to have little or no effect. Freezing rain and a mixed precipitation means that I have to keep the feathers from freezing up. I still remember the first time I shot a deer in the rain. As soon as I hit my release, my eyes stung and I didn't know what happened. All the water in the feathers had sprayed my face and startled me because I thought for a second something had hurt my eyes. I love feathers and fixed blades and see no reason to change.

 

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14 hours ago, NonTypical said:

It's staying on the feather.

I did put a drop of glue on the leading edge of the feather to help with the WB. But with the latest one to separate from the rear, changes are going to be made. 

super glue gel....

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3 hours ago, NonTypical said:

So I ordered a Bitz jig, new feathers, and wraps. Hopefully by using the wraps, I will get better adhesion. i really don't want to get away from the feathers. 

This works well for my recurve arrows.  Try the black top loctite gel too.  Easy to put on and holds.  I tear the wrap off before the fletching will let loose from the wrap.  Good luck.

 

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46 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

If it's staying on the feather you just need to clean the shafts a little better, you can scuff them up a little too I use a plastic scrubber. As mentioned use isopropyl alcohol instead of rubbing alcohol


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Isopropyl alcohol was used. I need to come up with a solution that will work 100% of the time. I will not be satisfied with even 99%. Would anyone buy a broadhead that was advertised to work properly 99% of the the time? This pic is of an arrow that was done this year. I shot this arrow at the target at least 30 times with no issues at all. I put it in my quiver for my #1 arrow a few weeks ago. All of a sudden out of the blue, it starts to fall apart. Any inconsistencies in my equipment is cause for concern and will not be tolerated. Both of the deer that I shot this year lost a feather in flight. 

image.jpeg

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