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Tuning question,again...


BowmanMike
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not great,i am wondering if the tip is a little bent on one of them. I rolled the arrows on its shaft and they looked ok. Also,i dont aim at the exact same spot with the broadheads.

Before i switched to these arrows i had some that were almost too stiff for the drawweight,and they had the FP and BH in the same spot,even though the bow was further out of tune than it is now. I could see the arrows fishtail some with the old arrows,but they placed great,and Kinetic energy was good too. Doesn't really make sense to me. I think the old arrows were 380 or 400,these are 340.

That is what the manufacturer recommends for my set up though. Gold tip hunter arrows.

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3 hours ago, moog5050 said:

spin test the BHs Mike.  Put them tip down (still attached to arrow) on a smooth surface and spin em like a top.  You will know quickly if a tip is bent or there are other issue.  Should spin smoothly.

How much wobble is acceptable? I spun all five of my broadheads,even the ones i have never shot,and they all wobble a little when i spin them..

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9 minutes ago, BowmanMike said:

How much wobble is acceptable? I spun all five of my broadheads,even the ones i have never shot,and they all wobble a little when i spin them..

Try swapping heads on different shafts and spin them, some may straighten out..

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3 hours ago, BowmanMike said:

I think i am giving up on this rig now. I just went to the bow shop and shot through some paper. The arrows i have are too heavy for my setup,the guys there had me shoot a 400 grain and it looked great through paper,my 340 ones were horrible. Looking to get a new bow i think.

 If you buy a new bow, you'll still need to paper tune the bow and figure out what works best. Whatever you decide to do, a paper tune will tell you a lot and will help your arrows fly like bullets. A walk back tune will also tell you if there is an erratic arrow flight. 

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2 hours ago, HuntOrBeHunted said:

De spite what everyone says they really don't shoot like a field point. Try a different broadhead before tuning anything. Rage shoots like a feildpoint for sure. Try that you will be good to go. im like 90% sure of it

I am not sure i have enough umph for a mechanical head. The bow is set at 55#.

I might try to have them shorten the arrows i have,they could loose maybe 2". I hope that will help,and then i can get a different set up without this time crunch.

I just want the BH to hit consistently,then i can move the sight and call it good for this year.

Edited by BowmanMike
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1 hour ago, BowmanMike said:

I am not sure i have enough umph for a mechanical head. The bow is set at 55#.

I might try to have them shorten the arrows i have,they could loose maybe 2". I hope that will help,and then i can get a different set up without this time crunch.

I just want the BH to hit consistently,then i can move the sight and call it good for this year.

A 3 blade muzzy and a field point are not going to shoot the same pattern im telling you. 55lb is plenty of pull to get good results. Id bet anything dam near if you sight your field points in and you are getting decent groups throw a rage or similar (I only say rage cause that's what I used so I am familiar with results) on and they will be grouped same as field points. 

 

I went threw the same problem. That's how I figured I knew what BH you were talking about. I had 10 different people tell me 10 different things. I switched from 3 blade muzzy to Rage and never looked back. Good luck. Find a friend that shoots rage or buy a pack give it a try. 

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surely all depends on the total setup - from arrow weight, speed etc.  Field points shoot exactly the same as the grim reapers i shoot.  And once bow is tuned in, all shoot are the practice heads they provide.  Have also heard about using 40 yard pin for shots inside 5 yards etc.  Tried that out with my bow and it shoots the same at 5, 10, 20 with the 20 yard pin.  Just depends on the setup and shooter etc.  its all about finding what works.   

 

 

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9 hours ago, BowmanMike said:

I am not sure i have enough umph for a mechanical head. The bow is set at 55#.

I might try to have them shorten the arrows i have,they could loose maybe 2". I hope that will help,and then i can get a different set up without this time crunch.

I just want the BH to hit consistently,then i can move the sight and call it good for this year.

You are over spined, shortening will make the spine stiffer. To weaken the spine add more weight to the front. 

Or get different arrows. 

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1 hour ago, Doewhacker said:

You are over spined, shortening will make the spine stiffer. To weaken the spine add more weight to the front. 

Or get different arrows. 

I will get different arrows,i can not afford to drop $800 on a new bow right now. Matthews has a great offer,the z3 for $599 plus $150 for a package with drop away rest,sights quiver and stabilizer. But i will make the one i have work for me and look for a used one for next season.

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14 minutes ago, BowmanMike said:

I will get different arrows,i can not afford to drop $800 on a new bow right now. Matthews has a great offer,the z3 for $599 plus $150 for a package with drop away rest,sights quiver and stabilizer. But i will make the one i have work for me and look for a used one for next season.

 

Pick up some weaker spined Easton gamegetters.  They are cheap and have killed a lot of deer.  Work with your shop to figure out the right spine and length.  Cheapest way to get going this year.

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2 hours ago, Robhuntandfish said:

surely all depends on the total setup - from arrow weight, speed etc.  Field points shoot exactly the same as the grim reapers i shoot.  And once bow is tuned in, all shoot are the practice heads they provide.  Have also heard about using 40 yard pin for shots inside 5 yards etc.  Tried that out with my bow and it shoots the same at 5, 10, 20 with the 20 yard pin.  Just depends on the setup and shooter etc.  its all about finding what works.   

 

 

I think its physically impossible that your 20 yard pin is dead on at 5 yards. Theres lots of info about it but essentially your arrow goes up and then down

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2 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

I think its physically impossible that your 20 yard pin is dead on at 5 yards. Theres lots of info about it but essentially your arrow goes up and then down

thats what ive been told.  Shot it and at 5,10,20 all were close to robin hoods.  Did it three times.  Dunno - just is.  

wanted to check it out theory that when deer is at 5 yards to use your 40 pin.  Did a thread here last year on it.  

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16 minutes ago, Robhuntandfish said:

thats what ive been told.  Shot it and at 5,10,20 all were close to robin hoods.  Did it three times.  Dunno - just is.  

wanted to check it out theory that when deer is at 5 yards to use your 40 pin.  Did a thread here last year on it.  

If I understand it correctly it has a lot to do with your peep position, maybe yours is lower than most, closer to your nock point

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