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Thordsen stock sling studs


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I’d like to install a “normal” sling swivel stud on my Thordsen stocks and wondered if anyone here has done this and can share their success. Ultimately, I think I can find a spot that the stud could go, but I’ve never installed one into plastic. Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

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I have put sling studs in a couple of synthetic stocks and have had no problem with them failing. As long as there is enough solid materiel for the threads to adhere and not a thin exterior layer that is hollow and filled with foam. I used JB Weld epoxy in the holes for extra strength, below is my Remington 597 Maggie with a synthetic stock that I installed swivel studs on. Also did my Remington Nylon 66.

Al

2019-05-21_065308.png

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  • 1 year later...

Anyone added a basic Uncle Mikes swivel stud to the Thordsen Gen 3 stock? They don't have the built-in stud ring, and the ones you can buy aren't for adding a basic sling with the UM's mounts.

 

I had given some thought to putting the stud into the baseplate of the grip, but I don't feel it would be strong enough to hold it or the baseplate would just pop out unless I epoxy it in, defeating the purpose of having the storage in the handle.

 

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Here's a pic of the stock.

arts1.jpg.172c72e0c00cb40570904804b1ca982b.jpg

 

They make an adapter that clips into the spacers, but it's designed for a loop through sling, but not a basic sling. I'm looking for a way to add a normal sling, not a tactical sling. The hand guards easy-peasy, just add rail mounted swivel. The butt-stock is what has me scratching my head. I mainly want the ability to add or remove the sling quickly while in the field.

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If you remove the rubber butt plate, there are 2 long allen head socket cap screws that hold the spacer stacks to the main stock.  Remove the screws, and the spacer stacks will come off.  If it were me, I'd remove them, take the one you want the swivel in, locate the center on the bottom, use a punch to get a hole location, drill a hole for the swivel stud, and if the stud is long enough, add a hex nut to the stud on the inner portion of the spacer stack.  Add epoxy or loctite.  I cant remember what the inner body looks like, its not solid, but its not wide open either.  Might need to dremel out a small pocket for the nut to sit, back filling with epoxy would be added security.  Knurled threaded insert is also an option, Drill the exact hole needed, once you thread in the stud, the insert expands, and the knurls bite the surrounding hole, but again, its only a friction fit with minor mechanical tooth.

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I would not count on screw-threads holding up if you don’t need to.  The laminated wood stock on my T/C Omega busted, after the factory installed screw-thread front sling stud pulled out and the gun swung down onto a hardware floor.  I repaired the busted stock with gorilla glue (maybe 15 years ago), machined a new sling stud from a bolt, and put a nut on the backside.  There is no way that is pulling out.
 

 Machine a small counterbore for the nut into the stock if you need to.  There was plenty of room for one, without doing that, on my Omega.  
 

0EB7BA57-680F-41FB-B528-6A836249C11A.thumb.jpeg.976fcbd27449413ef28c46c6df4e9ae0.jpeg

 

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Also for the quick release swivel stud that is not on the base of grip area, Thordsen relocated it to the side of the enhanced buffer tube cover.  That’s an easy swap if you need.

https://www.thordsencustoms.com/enhanced-buffer-tube-cover-kit-black/.html

also there’s this:

https://www.thordsencustoms.com/bottom-mount-mash-hook-loop/.html

 

6D6FC2D7-4659-4FDC-B915-B0CCA56F11F3.png

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12 minutes ago, loworange88 said:

If you remove the rubber butt plate, there are 2 long allen head socket cap screws that hold the spacer stacks to the main stock.  Remove the screws, and the spacer stacks will come off.  If it were me, I'd remove them, take the one you want the swivel in, locate the center on the bottom, use a punch to get a hole location, drill a hole for the swivel stud, and if the stud is long enough, add a hex nut to the stud on the inner portion of the spacer stack.  Add epoxy or loctite.  I cant remember what the inner body looks like, its not solid, but its not wide open either.  Might need to dremel out a small pocket for the nut to sit, back filling with epoxy would be added security.  Knurled threaded insert is also an option, Drill the exact hole needed, once you thread in the stud, the insert expands, and the knurls bite the surrounding hole, but again, its only a friction fit with minor mechanical tooth.

I think that might be the best option, and had thought about going that route when I put the stock together. I don't feel like pulling the stock apart, but this is what the extension spacers look like inside.

https://www.thordsencustoms.com/length-of-pull-extension-kit-black-for-frs-15-gen-iii/.html

 

There wouldn't be much room for a nut, the hole near the bottom is fairly small. I planned on buying a set of the extensions anyway, as the LOP is fine, but another 1/2" would be more ideal for me.

 

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Did you just drill and set the sling base, or did you take the stock off and remove the top to put a nut inside?

Honestly, I don’t remember for sure. I did it a long time ago. I’m guessing it is just threaded in based on where I put it. If I get a second today, I’ll look for sure and report back.


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44 minutes ago, onlybrowning said:


Honestly, I don’t remember for sure. I did it a long time ago. I’m guessing it is just threaded in based on where I put it. If I get a second today, I’ll look for sure and report back.


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No need to go through all that hassle. I was only asking because I was curious about durability of the stud staying in place and not breaking the stock. Then babies aren't cheap, and I don't want to break it.

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Just took a closer look. I installed just as I would have in a wood stock, but put some JB Weld on the threads as I threaded it in. At least I’m pretty certain that’s what I did, because I just tried to loosen it up and wasn’t able to easily and I’ve certainly done that in the past. I do know I tried threading it in one of the spacers, but the material there was much less desirable (soft) and that spot is very shallow, and the stud bottomed out long before it was in far enough. No way to put in a swivel stud with a nut based on how that shallow that area is. You’d run right into the long bolts holding the spacers and pad in place.


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