My UTV upgrades, damage prevention, safety.

[Bionic]

As a lot of you are aware I love trail riding.  Lately, more and more people are buying this machines, and like myself were unaware, and still unaware of critical safety features you can add, or modify, to create a safer machine.  Some interests were expressed in seeing what I have been doing to my UTV, so I have decided to share, and also explain why/how I did certain modifications to my machine.  Some are fun, some are for safety, and some are just for aesthetics to make me look back at the machine as I walk away, lol.  This is any extremely expensive hobby, and some parts should be considered high priority, if not a necessity! This will be a long post, and while I am still learning, please bare with me.  My info will mainly be focused on my particular machine, BUT other manufacturers do have similar designs that these parts are manufactured for as well.

#1 harness seat belts, these look like uncomfortable racing seat belts like back pack straps.  Some will argue that they are only crawling around slow speeds to there field, or treestand, and that is ok, I am not selling anything.  I will share that I know someone who was in his RZR traveling at 25mph, on a trail, blew a tire, and the machine rolled.  The 2 occupants had 4 point harnesses on, and were lucky.  The driver firmly believes that the harnesses kept his passenger safe as the machine rolled in the woods.  Again, not selling anything, but creating awareness is my goal.  I do plan on harnesses within a few months, you can buy a pair for around $2-300 and up. A lot of machine have tabs that are bolt in ready from the factory for these harnesses.  Some might say overkill, but the factory 3 point seat belts are designed for taller people, so as scary as it sounds, a young child, or teen could easily be thrown from the seatbelt, god forbid.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08BTTH47G/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A3RRSLWC47API7&psc=1

#2 We always wear a helmet, and goggles, we are more comfortable wearing them, to each his own though.

#3 Lower door panel inserts.  A bunch of machines have half doors.  Basically a big open area half way down the door, to the door sill leaves the riders legs exposed to the elements.  You can purchase panels, with metal tube framing that bolt to the half door, which fills in the open factory area.  The risk of this area being open is that it allows sticks, and limbs, as well as rocks to enter that area, and smack a rider, or actually impale an occupant! This has happened, and it is a real danger, photos are floating around online.  These “lower door” inserts, are affordable, and a necessity in my opinion, and the very first product I added to my machine.  I had these before I had the machine home. I installed these door panels in about 20-30 minutes, zero drilling.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-UTV-PRO-2017-2020-Maverick/dp/B089QGR6MH/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=7HZNRARDEJX8&keywords=utv+door+inserts&qid=1646923140&sprefix=utv+door+inserts%2Caps%2C603&sr=8-11#immersive-view_1646923177460

 

#4 Windshield.  I don’t consider this a necessity at all due to our riding situation.  We ride solo, so we aren’t following other machines on the trails where a rock can fling up, and hit us.  Referring back, we always wear a helmet, and goggles, so if a stone hits us from our own front tires, we are protected.  

#5 If you trail ride, I recommend riding with your low beam headlights on.  Same idea as daytime running lights on your car/truck.  It helps.

#6 Chase light.  If you ride dusty trails, like we do in Maine, or if you go out west in the desert, or dunes, you will see bright LED strobe lights shining behind the UTV’s.  They are there for the same reason that highway plow trucks have them on their rears.  If you need to pull over on a trail, and it is extremely dusty, or if you simply ride a lot slower than a guy flying up behind you, these bright LED strobes can help the machine approaching see you through thick dust.  I plan to add one, nothing crazy, a small 4-6” amber bar.  These are called “Chase Lights”.  
 

Eample:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DCNTBJR?pd_rd_i=B08DCNTBJR&pd_rd_w=re7Qh&pf_rd_p=749ab43d-a1a9-454c-a9be-a3d48d2e835a&pd_rd_wg=Ce7SG&pf_rd_r=X5Y3H7V33W8RAEX8WFV7&pd_rd_r=c7a245fa-d239-4442-86d5-15e9315545e4#immersive-view_1646923271456

#7 Roof, some do, and some don’t come factory with a roof.  As ridiculous as that is for the price of these machines, thats just reality.  If you ride all day, its like being in a boat/kayak/canoe….sunburn sunburn SUNBURN.  We run an aluminum roof because I am in the sun at work, and I like shade, and worry about skin issues later on.  Personal preference, but in the even of a rollover, its again…more protection from boulders, branches, stumps.

#8 The most recommended advice I see given on forums is to NOT do doughnuts, as it is a sure way to rollover if you do not know how to do a doughnut.  With lots of suspension travel on some machines, and aggressive tires, you need all that power to keep them tires sliding, and not grabbing.  I have not, and will not do a doughnut in my machine.

This is my informal list on some things I feel are ways to set up a safe machine.  I am not an expert, but I love this sport, and read daily about it.  I plan to add posts to this on my own modifications, and detailed pics of the installs.  Most of this stuff anyone can install. 
 

Be safe out there.

 

 

Edited March 10, 2022 by Bionic

[ncountry]

6 minutes ago, Bionic said:

As a lot of you are aware I love trail riding.  Lately, more and more people are buying this machines, and like myself were unaware, and still unaware of critical safety features you can add, or modify, to create a safer machine.  Some interests were expressed in seeing what I have been doing to my UTV, so I have decided to share, and also explain why/how I did certain modifications to my machine.  Some are fun, some are for safety, and some are just for aesthetics to make me look back at the machine as I walk away, lol.  This is any extremely expensive hobby, and some parts should be considered high priority, if not a necessity! This will be a long post, and while I am still learning, please bare with me.  My info will mainly be focused on my particular machine, BUT other manufacturers do have similar designs that these parts are manufactured for as well.

#1 harness seat belts, these look like uncomfortable racing seat belts like back pack straps.  Some will argue that they are only crawling around slow speeds to there field, or treestand, and that is ok, I am not selling anything.  I will share that I know someone who was in his RZR traveling at 25mph, on a trail, blew a tire, and the machine rolled.  The 2 occupants had 4 point harnesses on, and were lucky.  The driver firmly believes that the harnesses kept his passenger safe as the machine rolled in the woods.  Again, not selling anything, but creating awareness is my goal.  I do plan on harnesses within a few months, you can buy a pair for around $2-300 and up. A lot of machine have tabs that are bolt in ready from the factory for these harnesses.  

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08BTTH47G/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A3RRSLWC47API7&psc=1

#2 We always wear a helmet, and goggles, we are more comfortable wearing them, to each his own though.

#3 Lower door panel inserts.  A bunch of machines have half doors.  Basically a big open area half way down the door, to the door sill leaves the riders legs exposed to the elements.  You can purchase panels, with metal tube framing that bolt to the half door, which fills in the open factory area.  The risk of this area being open is that it allows sticks, and limbs, as well as rocks to enter that area, and smack a rider, or actually impale an occupant! This has happened, and it is a real danger, photos are floating around online.  These “lower door” inserts, are affordable, and a necessity in my opinion, and the very first product I added to my machine.  I had these before I had the machine home. I installed these door panels in about 20-30 minutes, zero drilling.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-UTV-PRO-2017-2020-Maverick/dp/B089QGR6MH/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=7HZNRARDEJX8&keywords=utv+door+inserts&qid=1646923140&sprefix=utv+door+inserts%2Caps%2C603&sr=8-11#immersive-view_1646923177460

 

#4 Windshield.  I don’t consider this a necessity at all due to our riding situation.  We ride solo, so we aren’t following other machines on the trails where a rock can fling up, and hit us.  Referring back, we always wear a helmet, and goggles, so if a stone hits us from our own front tires, we are protected.  

#5 If you trail ride, I recommend riding with your low beam headlights on.  Same idea as daytime running lights on your car/truck.  It helps.

#6 Chase light.  If you ride dusty trails, like we do in Maine, or if you go out west in the desert, or dunes, you will see bright LED strobe lights shining behind the UTV’s.  They are there for the same reason that highway plow trucks have them on their rears.  If you need to pull over on a trail, and it is extremely dusty, or if you simply ride a lot slower than a guy flying up behind you, these bright LED strobes can help the machine approaching see you through thick dust.  I plan to add one, nothing crazy, a small 4-6” amber bar.  These are called “Chase Lights”.  
 

Eample:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DCNTBJR?pd_rd_i=B08DCNTBJR&pd_rd_w=re7Qh&pf_rd_p=749ab43d-a1a9-454c-a9be-a3d48d2e835a&pd_rd_wg=Ce7SG&pf_rd_r=X5Y3H7V33W8RAEX8WFV7&pd_rd_r=c7a245fa-d239-4442-86d5-15e9315545e4#immersive-view_1646923271456

#7 Roof, some do, and some don’t come factory with a roof.  As ridiculous as that is for the price of these machines, thats just reality.  If you ride all day, its like being in a boat/kayak/canoe….sunburn sunburn SUNBURN.  We run an aluminum roof because I am in the sun at work, and I like shade, and worry about skin issues later on.  Personal preference, but in the even of a rollover, its again…more protection from boulders, branches, stumps.

#8 The most recommended advice I see given on forums is to NOT do doughnuts, as it is a sure way to rollover if you do not know how to do a doughnut.  With lots of suspension travel on some machines, and aggressive tires, you need all that power to keep them tires sliding, and not grabbing.  I have not, and will not do a doughnut in my machine.

This is my informal list on some things I feel are ways to set up a safe machine.  I am not an expert, but I love this sport, and read daily about it.  I plan to add posts to this on my own modifications, and detailed pics of the installs.  Most of this stuff anyone can install. 
 

Be safe out there.

 

 

Thanks, great list ! 

A sxs is on my want list. Slowly getting closer to the top..

But wait, no donuts?

[Five Seasons]

I have no desire for a roof or windshield. I feel like at that point i'm just in a small truck. I don't want to lose that outdoor feeling even if I'm a little more wet or a little more cold. 

[Bionic]

7 minutes ago, Belo said:

I have no desire for a roof or windshield. I feel like at that point i'm just in a small truck. I don't want to lose that outdoor feeling even if I'm a little more wet or a little more cold. 

Definitely personal preference.  I just added a half windshield for the same reason you mention, I want that outdoor feeling as well, but a half windshield will direct some of the air over our bodies so my wife is warmer.  

[Bionic]

Trailering a UTV.

My preference is tire tie down systems.  Single strap design, or wheel nets.  Some machines have up to 24” of wheel travel, and soft suspension.  If you ratchet strap traditionally to the center of a machine, for example to the safety chain loop of a hitch/receiver, and hit a good bump, or overpass that allows the utv to squat far enough, that ratchet strap will have momentary slack, and can actually unhook. By using wheel tie downs, or strapping traditionally as close to the tire as possible reduces the chance greatly of a strap loosening, or unhooking.  @moog5050 a d I coincidentally run the same method, not saying we are examples to lead by, but its an option, tire nets are even better.

[moog5050]

36 minutes ago, Bionic said:

As a lot of you are aware I love trail riding.  Lately, more and more people are buying this machines, and like myself were unaware, and still unaware of critical safety features you can add, or modify, to create a safer machine.  Some interests were expressed in seeing what I have been doing to my UTV, so I have decided to share, and also explain why/how I did certain modifications to my machine.  Some are fun, some are for safety, and some are just for aesthetics to make me look back at the machine as I walk away, lol.  This is any extremely expensive hobby, and some parts should be considered high priority, if not a necessity! This will be a long post, and while I am still learning, please bare with me.  My info will mainly be focused on my particular machine, BUT other manufacturers do have similar designs that these parts are manufactured for as well.

#1 harness seat belts, these look like uncomfortable racing seat belts like back pack straps.  Some will argue that they are only crawling around slow speeds to there field, or treestand, and that is ok, I am not selling anything.  I will share that I know someone who was in his RZR traveling at 25mph, on a trail, blew a tire, and the machine rolled.  The 2 occupants had 4 point harnesses on, and were lucky.  The driver firmly believes that the harnesses kept his passenger safe as the machine rolled in the woods.  Again, not selling anything, but creating awareness is my goal.  I do plan on harnesses within a few months, you can buy a pair for around $2-300 and up. A lot of machine have tabs that are bolt in ready from the factory for these harnesses.  Some might say overkill, but the factory 3 point seat belts are designed for taller people, so as scary as it sounds, a young child, or teen could easily be thrown from the seatbelt, god forbid.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08BTTH47G/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A3RRSLWC47API7&psc=1

#2 We always wear a helmet, and goggles, we are more comfortable wearing them, to each his own though.

#3 Lower door panel inserts.  A bunch of machines have half doors.  Basically a big open area half way down the door, to the door sill leaves the riders legs exposed to the elements.  You can purchase panels, with metal tube framing that bolt to the half door, which fills in the open factory area.  The risk of this area being open is that it allows sticks, and limbs, as well as rocks to enter that area, and smack a rider, or actually impale an occupant! This has happened, and it is a real danger, photos are floating around online.  These “lower door” inserts, are affordable, and a necessity in my opinion, and the very first product I added to my machine.  I had these before I had the machine home. I installed these door panels in about 20-30 minutes, zero drilling.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-UTV-PRO-2017-2020-Maverick/dp/B089QGR6MH/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=7HZNRARDEJX8&keywords=utv+door+inserts&qid=1646923140&sprefix=utv+door+inserts%2Caps%2C603&sr=8-11#immersive-view_1646923177460

 

#4 Windshield.  I don’t consider this a necessity at all due to our riding situation.  We ride solo, so we aren’t following other machines on the trails where a rock can fling up, and hit us.  Referring back, we always wear a helmet, and goggles, so if a stone hits us from our own front tires, we are protected.  

#5 If you trail ride, I recommend riding with your low beam headlights on.  Same idea as daytime running lights on your car/truck.  It helps.

#6 Chase light.  If you ride dusty trails, like we do in Maine, or if you go out west in the desert, or dunes, you will see bright LED strobe lights shining behind the UTV’s.  They are there for the same reason that highway plow trucks have them on their rears.  If you need to pull over on a trail, and it is extremely dusty, or if you simply ride a lot slower than a guy flying up behind you, these bright LED strobes can help the machine approaching see you through thick dust.  I plan to add one, nothing crazy, a small 4-6” amber bar.  These are called “Chase Lights”.  
 

Eample:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DCNTBJR?pd_rd_i=B08DCNTBJR&pd_rd_w=re7Qh&pf_rd_p=749ab43d-a1a9-454c-a9be-a3d48d2e835a&pd_rd_wg=Ce7SG&pf_rd_r=X5Y3H7V33W8RAEX8WFV7&pd_rd_r=c7a245fa-d239-4442-86d5-15e9315545e4#immersive-view_1646923271456

#7 Roof, some do, and some don’t come factory with a roof.  As ridiculous as that is for the price of these machines, thats just reality.  If you ride all day, its like being in a boat/kayak/canoe….sunburn sunburn SUNBURN.  We run an aluminum roof because I am in the sun at work, and I like shade, and worry about skin issues later on.  Personal preference, but in the even of a rollover, its again…more protection from boulders, branches, stumps.

#8 The most recommended advice I see given on forums is to NOT do doughnuts, as it is a sure way to rollover if you do not know how to do a doughnut.  With lots of suspension travel on some machines, and aggressive tires, you need all that power to keep them tires sliding, and not grabbing.  I have not, and will not do a doughnut in my machine.

This is my informal list on some things I feel are ways to set up a safe machine.  I am not an expert, but I love this sport, and read daily about it.  I plan to add posts to this on my own modifications, and detailed pics of the installs.  Most of this stuff anyone can install. 
 

Be safe out there.

 

 

Most of the items you mention I have, but the big one I am looking at now is skid plates.   You are just sticking with the stock plastic covers?  Good plates are freaking expensive.   Run the ricochet plates on my ATV and they have held up great.   But its is hard for me to pay $1500-2000 for plates on the new Talon.   I likely will but not thrilled about it.

[Bionic]

2 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

Most of the items you mention I have, but the big one I am looking at now is skid plates.   You are just sticking with the stock plastic covers?  Good plates are freaking expensive.   Run the ricochet plates on my ATV and they have held up great.   But its is hard for me to pay $1500-2000 for plates on the new Talon.   I likely will but not thrilled about it.

I run gravel logging roads, and dirt roads, and black top, I don’t need aftermarket plates.  Long wheelbase like you I would.  Check out gusset kits too for front end.

[Moho81]

I'd like a wheel tie down system that's adjustable so I could easily go from ATV to SxS to Zero turn to garden tractor. I guess I just use my utility trailer for to many things. 

[Bionic]

15 minutes ago, Moho81 said:

I'd like a wheel tie down system that's adjustable so I could easily go from ATV to SxS to Zero turn to garden tractor. I guess I just use my utility trailer for to many things. 

I hear ya. We run this on our zero turns for daily use in a box trailer, still not a one application for all setup by any means.  You could always bolt D-rings to the floor, and use certain straps over the tires, but honestly the Erickson kits I have are not expensive for what you type of pricy vehicles that are being tied down with.  Just a lot of hardware sitting on the deck in your scenario.  I only use the trailer for this utv, otherwise I use a dump trailer.

Edited March 10, 2022 by Bionic

[moog5050]

16 minutes ago, Moho81 said:

I'd like a wheel tie down system that's adjustable so I could easily go from ATV to SxS to Zero turn to garden tractor. I guess I just use my utility trailer for to many things. 

They sell them with a track to adjust distance from front to back but honestly, you can use only 1 and be fine.  Very solid.  Won't move with one on and if the trailer flips, 4 won't help any more.

My point being if its set up for the sxs you can run a single tire over the same chocks for the ATV and zero turn

Edited March 10, 2022 by moog5050

[Moho81]

Interesting, I'll have to look around. I was thinking in my head something like an etrack tie down system mounted to the floor of the trailer which I am assuming the one you mentioned is like but instead of front and back I was thinking left to right in order to be able to strap 2 wheels at a time. 

[Bionic]

3 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

They sell them with a track to adjust distance from front to back but honestly, you can use only 1 and be fine.  Very solid.  Won't move with one on and if the trailer flips, 4 won't help any more.

My point being if its set up for the sxs you can run a single tire over the same chocks for the ATV and zero turn

Agreed, kind of what my mind was thinking by sharing one tire.  Our mowers we run one wheel lock pictured in red, if you don’t whip the trailer like a maniac it doesn’t slide around 

[Robhuntandfish]

good stuff there.  A friend of mine in VA died last year on a side by side.  He was even going slow but wheels got caught on a the edge and it rolled.  He was a father and a great guy for sure.  One small mistake and the worst happened. 

[moog5050]

7 minutes ago, Bionic said:

Agreed, kind of what my mind was thinking by sharing one tire.  Our mowers we run one wheel lock pictured in red, if you don’t whip the trailer like a maniac it doesn’t slide around 

Yep - my first trailer had 4 for my atv.  Over time I started using 2, then one.   Never seem to loosen up and if the trailer flips, 1000 won't help!

[fasteddie]

Great safety stuff . I see very few UTVs and there is always the "cool" guy driving with his foot hanging out or his passenger doing that ............ Really dangerous to do when on trails . 

[Bionic]

1 minute ago, moog5050 said:

Yep - my first trailer had 4 for my atv.  Over time I started using 2, then one.   Never seem to loosen up and if the trailer flips, 1000 won't help!

Agreed, with air filled tires if a bead breaks, all that tie down force is gone completely if in a rollover.  I do run all 4, rather have them, and not need them for my long trips.  I also think if something happened at least authorities know you had multiple anchors, god forbid someone was hurt by detached cargo.  I will say guys at work hate how picky I am here with ratchet straps, lol.

[Bionic]

16 minutes ago, Robhuntandfish said:

good stuff there.  A friend of mine in VA died last year on a side by side.  He was even going slow but wheels got caught on a the edge and it rolled.  He was a father and a great guy for sure.  One small mistake and the worst happened. 

I hate hearing that, sorry to hear.  It doesn’t take much.

[Bionic]

12 minutes ago, fasteddie said:

Great safety stuff . I see very few UTVs and there is always the "cool" guy driving with his foot hanging out or his passenger doing that ............ Really dangerous to do when on trails . 

Hopefully I don’t run into any of them at the prosthetist’s office in the future.

[Bionic]

WHEEL SCRAPERS:

these are on some makes of UTV’s.  They were under the rear knuckles on my machine.  It’s basically a plate bolted under the knuckle that scrapes accumulating mud out from the inside of your wheels.  A random internet pic will be attached.  The issue with these is that the gap between the scrapper, and wheel is tight enough to allow a stone to get lodged in between.  You wont know this, and as you are driving that stone can actually cut through the wheel, and allow the air to escape from the tire.  If you don’t carry a spare, you are screwed.  In the photo below, you can see the black plate hanging down.  A lot of guys unbolt these plates if they stick with factory wheel diameter.  If you go with a larger wheel diameter, the more clearance you gain in between the wheel, and scrapper.  Mine are removed…

[Bionic]

I forgot a very important supply to have on the trail if you are a belt driven machine.  If your UTV is belt driven always keep a spare drive belt, and clutch tool on you, and sockets/bits to access the clutch cover.  Some guys tear through belts, others never need to change a belt.  They are pricey, but high heat will snap a belt, and if so, you will not be able to drive on your own power, until replaced.  Even in 4x4 you will not move with a belt driven machine.  I need to take my own advice here, and order a spare, I am at 780 miles, no issues, but I don’t want to get into a bad situation riding solo.

[rob-c]

3 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Most of the items you mention I have, but the big one I am looking at now is skid plates.   You are just sticking with the stock plastic covers?  Good plates are freaking expensive.   Run the ricochet plates on my ATV and they have held up great.   But its is hard for me to pay $1500-2000 for plates on the new Talon.   I likely will but not thrilled about it.

I  absolutely love my Ricochet plates, full belly , A -arm and foot wells . Can’t tell you how many times they have saved the bottom of our quads . 

[rob-c]

16 minutes ago, Bionic said:

I forgot a very important supply to have on the trail if you are a belt driven machine.  If your UTV is belt driven always keep a spare drive belt, and clutch tool on you, and sockets/bits to access the clutch cover.  Some guys tear through belts, others never need to change a belt.  They are pricey, but high heat will snap a belt, and if so, you will not be able to drive on your own power, until replaced.  Even in 4x4 you will not move with a belt driven machine.  I need to take my own advice here, and order a spare, I am at 780 miles, no issues, but I don’t want to get into a bad situation riding solo.

Great advice and just to add to it , a yearly belt and CVT inspection should be done. 

[Bionic]

7 minutes ago, rob-c said:

Great advice and just to add to it , a yearly belt and CVT inspection should be done. 

Let’s also add to blow the clutch and secondary out with compressed air.

[rob-c]

16 minutes ago, Bionic said:

Let’s also add to blow the clutch and secondary out with compressed air.

Yes as long as one’s particular  set up requires this, now on my Yamahas the CVT is a bit different than on a can-am or Polaris . I guess what I’m saying , there’s lots of diy videos on cvt maintenance for every machine just make sure you find a good resource for your particular machine and do the preventive maintenance. 

[Bionic]

1 minute ago, rob-c said:

Yes as long as one’s particular  set up requires this, now on my Yamahas the CVT is a bit different than on a can-am or Polaris . I guess what I’m saying , there’s lots of diy videos on cvt maintenance for every machine just make sure you find a good resource for your particular machine and do the preventive maintenance. 

I will have to look up a Yamaha clutch just for haha’s.  I don’t have a ton of experience with clutches.  I’ve replaced the rollers in a golf cart primary, thats about it.  At work I always blow them out at oil changes.  I have been watching videos here, and there though, and I have clutch tools set aside in my Amazon cart.  I’m not an Amazon freak but its a good way to remember which tools are needed etc for me.  My dad might even have the tools.  I know my X3 clutch says 500 mile inspections, check rollers etc.  Considering a clutch kit in the future, so I am trying to learn more about these clutches.  Thanks for adding info here!