dbHunterNY

Nope do have a Bear Archery Super Kodiak though. i think they should make it a legal implement to hunt anything any time that's already legal and be done with it. i will say that most i've seen shoot a crossbow can't hit much of anything. they are an advantage over a bow. it's not fair comparing my recurve bow with my $2k compound bow either.

not knowing how much road frontage, how it's zoned, what's around it, etc. assuming it's not developed or already has a septic and well setup $2k per acre isn't that much of a low ball offer. $3K+ an acre for what your asking for starts to get on the high end for simply recreational property which is what a lot of people on here would be looking for. if there was more land i'd value it higher per acre but right now it's not for me. besides taxes are pretty high there and heading south.

about the same where i hunt.... more younger age class bucks. last year the neighbors shot a lot of little ones though. this year was tough because a lot of bigger bucks happen to be shot by some of them. not over yet but it'll be tough unless you can find a good late season food source that's still standing.

not saying this is wrong or right. just telling a true story.... my dad shot a buck in this same way but the bullet ended up getting up in it's sinuses... between the hide and its nose bridge part of the skull. deer just stood their shaking its head. he shot again and put it down. that was using a 30-06 150gr soft point cor-lokt.

least meat loss is in the head but it had to be perfect conditions. i've only done that once at 106 yards. i never aim for the neck. i've seen deer go down hit there but i still don't. i cut up my own deer. lots of meat on the neck that can go into ground venison or slow cooked and separated from connective tissues and what not. feasibly the least meat loss would be to shoot a deer through both lungs, avoiding the heart, liver, and any meat in the shoulder. can run a little ways though, but they'll make it much less if you can put a second round in the same area. done that many times. i usually end up taking out the heart with a bow just because i'm aiming for bottom 1/3 in case the deer reacts to the shot by loading up it's legs. that's my thoughts anyway.

not bad.... thanks for sharing. i've thought about getting that Muddy camera mount. you like it?

if you do then are you looking to get all new stuff? that kind of budget will get you into just about any hunting bow without accessories. go to a local archery shop and shoot a bunch before you buy. many of the newer bows will shoot well so don't buy the first one you pick up. what feels comfortable is real important, but they've changed quite a bit since then. know your correct draw length and max poundage you should shoot. they could tell you that, or you can figure it out pretty easy with some tips if you need them explained. also if you go to an archery shop now (late fall into winter) and find discounted bows that people hit the woods with right now. reason being the new 2013 models are available and showing up in shops. by summer there won't be many left except new 2013 bows that are full price. helps to have a bow with adjustable drawlength without needing any extra parts. helps to resell it yourself or pass it on to someone else. my primary hunting bow right now is a PSE Evo.... it's fast but has a pretty smooth draw compared to other "speed" bows. the backwall (point at which the bow can't be drawn further) is stiff and not squishy feeling. if he can shoot that well he can shoot a 6" brace height like the Evo's got. i wouldn't go below that though. best sticking between 6.5 - 7.25" so mistakes shooting aren't amplified. the Bowmaddness isn't bad either if you want to stick to PSE. PSE's with the planar flex risers are good basically. another thing there's lots of super short axle-to-axle length bows out there (30" or less). i shy away from these but if you get one of these then it's good to have a sight with a bubble level and third-axis adjustment. it's real easy to cant these bows to the left or right which throws off your shot the farther out you go. hope that helps and the info isn't too late... good luck with the new bows.

i agree with this. from the regulations booklet.... How To Transfer A DMP Deer Carcass Tag •Hunter Art Fern of this DMP carcass tag must sign bottom. •The DMP carcass tag is given to Pete Moss. •Hunter Pete Moss must record the DOC# tag on his reporting panel. This allows this DMP carcass tag to be transferred. •Hunter Pete Moss is allowed only two transferred DMPs per year whether he uses the tag(s) or not. •If Hunter Pete Moss does not use the DMP Deer Tag, he can give it back to Art Fern or give it to another hunter. The other hunter must then record the DOC# from the DMP carcass tag on his/her reporting panel. REMEMBER: Hunting licenses are not transferable. Only DMP carcass tags can be used by another hunter. NOTE: To report a deer taken on a transferred DMP, the hunter who took the deer must call the automated reporting system (1-866-426-3778) or report via the internet at www.dec.ny.gov using the transferred DMP carcass tag DOC# and his/her own date of birth, along with other required information (see page 17). DMP carcass tag of Hunter Art Fern Reporting panel of Hunter Pete Moss It is NOT legal to buy, sell, or offer to sell a DMP!

i've hunted out of built wooden stands for years. i prefer manufactured metal stands or blinds though. after a while they just get old and unsafe. check them before each season real well. the tree will actually grow around the stand if you fasten it well enough. i used lags and pre-drilled the wood. always used rough cut oak or locust boards. locust is tough to nail or screw into but it lasts. however, my biggest grip is after awhile the platforms get mildue on them and become a little slick. also if there's snow on them, they get loud and crunchy. another thing is if you're not high up and still exposed, older does will have you pegged before they come into site. if a buck is casually just with them and not running them, they sometimes blow the rest of the deer out.

sorry haven't been on here in a while.... email the club email address to setup a time to meet or we've got membership meetings Dec 2nd and January 6th (Sundays at 2pm). they're the first sunday mid day of each winter month, otherwise they're tuesday nights at 7pm. gate will be open. just say your new and looking to join... people will show you around and then honestly chat with one of us for a little bit and you've got a reference. it's not that hard to get references. i think you need two people to sign off on you. new members are always welcome, we don't limit our membership.

i could make all kinds of suggestions but it's what will fit him best.... for PSE I'd recommend the Evo Max or Hammer. Also the Bowmaddness 3G is a single cam and great forgiving bow.

welcome to the forums. i'm new here as well.

welcome to the forums. i'm a newbie to here myself. good luck this season. i don't know what that's like to fully understand but i bet it's tough as anything to endure. i hope when you hit the woods your flooded with great memories of him like it was yesterday. you've got to hang on to every one of them and continue to enjoy what was a part of both your lives. it'll get better with time.

i'd think it would effect the powder ignition. sounds like you're using a lot of it... only need a thin coating of it in the bore. i run a wet and dry patch down through before loading. it's not like the old days where bore butter was used for lube between the bore and the buffer patch over a ball. you want to bore dry and clean before each shot.

i use 777 pellets and they're nasty stuff. i don't leave it in the barrel for more than a couple consistant temp days that are dry. i also tape the end of the barrel when hunting. i didn't clean it for a few days after i shot it and it rusted a little around the crud ring location. i also got a little around the receiver. i managed to get it under control. basically tried all kinds of stuff for storage and nothing keep it from rusting. bore butter did though. that's what i use now.

TC Prohunter 50 cal loaded with 250gr Hornady SST low drag sabots, in front of 150 grs of 777, and lit up with Remington Klean-bore primers. that'll change though until i get single-hole groups. right now it's 1" and under. seems the combo likes slightly warmer temps of september than the late december cold.

weatherby vanguard series 2 synthetic in 308 with a Nikon Prostaff 3-9 or 4-12 X 40mm scope with decent rings. for a sling i'd get a Slogan Outdoors Ultraflex sling.... made in the USA and guaranteed for life no matter what. sling is versatile too.

that's a giant ... good luck getting him.

Congrats Wooly!

it was a great idea... i only hope that it gets expanded. seems like there's the same stuff there each year.

I've had good luck with Nikon scopes. i'd get something that goes up to 9 or 12 power. Prostaff line would fit that budget. i've got one on my 30-06 deer rifle right now... ready for Saturday.

the cheapest your gun likes.... i use Remington Cor-lokts in 150gr if it shoots out of the gun fine.

1. yes you can. 2. the round won't go off, but you may damage the nose of the bullet or crush powder pellets which will hurt accuracy. 3. it depends on the powder charge and load.... after the first shot some maybe dirtier than others. accuracy and/or point of impact will most load combinations will change. i've seen the second shot be off by a several inches. you should run a wet patch followed by a dry patch through after each shot at least to maintain accuracy and POI. this keeps a consistant bore and allows you to seat the load the same. i shoot sub-MOA groups with my muzzleloader by doing this. 4. there could be some rust in the bore. you should clean it that day or at least remove the load if applicable and swab the barrel with a wet and patch. 5. same gun handling stuff as usual. make sure to keep the gun pointed in a safe direction if the load doesn't go off right away. be sure of what you're putting down the barrel. pay attention and don't put in powder and no bullet or load it twice. once you get a load that shoots well you can mark your ram rod with paint, tape, etc. where it meets the muzzle for a nice indicator. make sure you take the ram rod out. make sure you use a scope with lots of eye relief or don't put your eye close to the scope. make sure you seat the bullet fully and not part way down the barrel. finally make sure you don't use more powder than the maximum the manufacturer recommends for your gun (over 100 grains). all powders aren't equal at 100 or 150 grains. some you must use less. hope that helps.

i take it out at the end of each hunting day usually. i use 777 pellets which soak up water like a sponge.

mostly private family farms in 4C and then public ground in 4J. hunting's very different between the two.