Dinsdale

Here ya' go..... Notice the fine crafted scales, the feel of the cordura sheath, and its spare blade holder; all in one fine package.....

Good fences make good neighbors.

There's some more Russian designs coming our way....I would expect after SHOT. One slug has what looks like a cross design on its head.....the importer is working with a guy who posts on another forum I'm on.....I'll look for a link. There are also 2 Greek companies looking to market here. One makes a cnc turned brass slug, not sure of the other. Most have a Brenneke inspired design where the part of the wad/sabot shears off and part stays on the rear until impact. Those designs stabilize well in smooth bores, some countries don't allow access to rifled shotgun barrels; I know Greece is smoothbore shotgun only.

Lightfield makes 31/2" sabot slugs. Not sure for whose rifled barrels though?

If the scope tracks well you could be OK....I do something similar and know the count between set ups and its very close with just count. You may find it helpful to change the turrets by going past the count and then back where you want to be. This torques the adjustments the same way each time.Then you always are turning the same way back to a setting. Say you are 12 clicks off, go to 15 and back to 12.....then up 12 the next time you go back to the original; always turning the set up one way to get to your final setting. You can also settle the the scope by tapping on it.....but I have never needed to, a shot does the same thing but an initial round may produce a flier and subsequent rounds may group better. I have another solution for another barrel I own....I have two scopes in some good detachable rings so I can shoot 2 loads, one set up for each. I use that alot when traveling as I have a built in spare and can switch loads for another type of hunting with one gun.

There's some in the Stissing area still... Used to be some on and near by Lafayetteville too; but same as the above not since the mid- late 90's although once in awhile I'll hear some drumming in nearby areas; but its just occasional.

I coined a joke of the name; Loozerville USA; as a play on the hamlet name where I live and I use it on several forums.....before I lived here it was known for a house of ill repute and several seedy bars through the 70's. Known for its ruff and tumble existance some older folks here raised an eyebrow when you would say that's where you live.....after 20+ years here that's not so much the case anymore as the city folks have moved up here, but it was the case years ago..... I'm always in a Christmas spirit...But thanks for the thought

GO BILLZ !!!!

That's pretty good.... Runaway Sleigh Containment Barrier. LOL

Good stuff Larry..... At least taken some deer can get your mind off them Billz and their collapse this season.LOL

Me too....funny stuff Dave.

Depends on two things......The MOA of the dot; you may have been shooting 4 MOA dot to cover 4" at 100. And what is called "fringing", that is the dot being brighter than required for ambient and the dot gets fuzzy optically around the edge making it appear larger than it is. Some are adjustable for dot size, some are fixed. The larger sizes/patterns are optically easier/faster to pick up and more intended for close quarters work.Finer dots will cover less of the target and will hold moment of hunting accuracy beyond 100. The ability to be parallax free and a crisp adjustable intensity dot are what to look for. Parallax is the dot stays on target even if you move your head and the dot does not appear to stay centered in the scope body.

Cool pic Dave.....anyone bails on you I'll go.LOL

Not to many plans but some ideas including a hybrid of mine(wood and pop-up tower) http://blaserbuds.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=4818

Maybe you'll have better luck; I'll pass.

I'd go for the low power scope for that number. On the good/bad; I have a couple of red dots that I really like on a shotgun and the battery life is in years, but you will pay to get there. They are very quick to pick up game in; and although I shoot both eyes open with most scopes, its even easier as there is no magnication in the red dot lense. But obviously no magnification can also limit comfortable range where some sure can help at times. JMO

Consider a bivy sack for this.... You can carry it afield for an emergency night out; acts like a tent. Adds temp to your bag if they drop way below expected. You can sit on it to glass folded up. Heres a "heavy" at 15 oz version. you can cut that to 10ozs easy but you'll pay more. http://www.rei.com/product/794292/rei-minimalist-bivy-sack-regular

Mountains..... South Island.....Himalyan Tahr and Chamois. Trying to hook up with some Aussie guys from another forum. That falls thru; plan B.LOL I got the time and the money to go guided but would rather prefer DIY for this one.

Last words looking at your post..... "it's making the choices on equipment and prioritizing items to bring that is giving me trouble" Segement your lists, examine each area and solve it; shelter/sleeping/pack....they are the big 3 both in cost and weight. Shelter; tent/tarps/ground cloth/stakes/poles/lines etc Sleeping gear; bag/pad/clothes to sleep in(these can double in case of extreme drop in temps for field layers)/camp shoes Cooking and camp stuff; stove/fuel/pots/utensils/water storage Field wear; clothes for on your way in/layering/rain gear Meals; planned by the day/extra day(S) just in case. First aid/personal;toilet paper/hand sanitizer Pack and frame to fit it all;

I would start with this; http://www.staples.com/Pelouze-5-lb-General-Purpose-Digital-Scales/product_499322 I weight small items as a group and have lists of individuals to add up.....great for figuring meals too. You'll find it real handy; I take it right into the store with me when deciding between two items....manufacture specs are often averages. Sounds anal; but ounces add up to pounds before you know it. My partner weighs stuff but can't get below 32-35 lbs to save his a$$. Just unwilling to carry less "stuff"; like 3 ways to start a fire and his piezo self igniting stove. LOL and a BIG rambo knife, and a camp knife, and a pocket knive, and a razor blade in his first aid kit. I'm all for saftey but it can get crazy too.....how many cutting implements can you need?(and we ain't cutting an animal up just backpacking) Look at the Patagonia Nano puff series for an insulation layer....hooded or hoodless depending what you like....good balance for weight/insulation. A standard piece for me and MANY others.They have great direct sales of all their stuff on line.....sign up for the email alerts. I use their base layers also in Capilene; dries fast. I like RAB stuff....have a few things, but their eVent gaiters are my favorites. Keeps the dew and crap out of your boots which helps with damp pants and socks for the rest of the day. Alpines are on sale right now too..... http://www.prolitegear.com/site/xdpy/sbc/Rab/Gaiters I carry this for a knife;http://www.havalon.com/xt60-edge.html Super light; extra blades weight nothing and take seconds to change.One to skin,debone one whole deer, one to cape out the skull for fine work. I take a kitchen plastic victronox knife for heavier camp work/meals. I'm trying to plan a New Zealand hunt right now, so even though I have most of my kit down; theres always something to research/organise. My biggest hurdle is finding someone who wants to go!

Good post.

If you would like to ask him yourself; he is a frequent visitor and sometimes poster on another hunting forum I moderate on.PM me for contact info if you wish. I think you would find him very approachable and genuine person of outstanding character. Mr Henry is very giving of his time and has even set up a deer biology lecture for our forum at a get together we have had.

I tried to edit in but couldn't; Here's how I do meals; making a freeze dried/dehydrated meal using just boiling water poured in a freezer zip lock bag in an insulated cozy to cook; http://www.trailcooking.com/ Saves on washing dishes and such, but its not for everyone. My hiking partner likes to fuss over a pot and cook in the field; I just boil water. But we tend to not share gear either.....kinda stupid at times, but he would rather carry all his own stuff.

Just for conversation when researching you don't want to be ultra light hunting. The gear used for true ultra light I thnk would be tough to deal with on a multiple day hunt in your location. Thats JMO........BUT You sure can go lightwieght. My pack is always around 25-28 Lbs for 7 full days....add gun,ammo,optics.In your case bow and arrows. "Big 3".....they always make up the bulk of weight past food; Shelter; one option that is very popular is a tee-pee style shelter like a Go-lite ShangriLa 3 and a ground sheet. Lite and easy to set in varied terrain, very weather stable. You can add a ti wood stove and jack for heat and cooking depending on expected temps. I have a Big Agnes Fly creek 1 and 2, both I really like for a free standing.......but I don't share a tent when out and I think more a tarp-tent setup would be better for a pair at light weight. Sleeping bags;Most light folks use down bags. Synthetic bags weigh more, but keep their insulation properties better when wet. Down you have to be more careful with moisture including condensation, but it's lighter and usually more expensive. A good bag will last if properly cared for. Packs;Lots of great light packs, but they don't always carry a kill well. Still plenty of mountian hunters using a frame pack with seperate bag to take afield during the day. And you have to combine gear and a possible kill weight to pack out. I'd go with a simple gravity filter for water. Never sleep without the Neo-air pad...worth the 13 ozs. Cooking,a Soto stove and Ti pot/cup a bit lighter or a Sol-ti jetboil, but that would be a close second........but I'd research that for high altitude....mine works good to 9,000 not sure on 12K. Light and cast iron NEVER go together. LOL For food I do my own freezer-bag cooking and make my own meals.Mountain-house is to salty for me. Look for 120 calories per oz for a bulk of your daily req. I look for 4000/day if working hard and I'm OK....much less and I run a deficit that I can't spare(low body fat). About 1 1/2 closer to 2 lbs a day. Read here....some very good info on how to lighten up. Some folks are unreal to how low they go, but there is great info if you look around. (as most forums) http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/index.html Read posts there by Sarah Kirkconnel in the cooking forum and go to her site; good stuff.

Send him the link to this thread when he says your making a big deal out of this.....