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Which broadheads and arrow setup.


Hunting3m
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I am looking in new broadheads. I am wanting to try mechanical. Ive been using fixed the 3 years ive been hunting. I killed my first doe with my 45lb draw youth bow with one type, and she only ran 30 yards more and died. 2 broadheads i have seen that look nice are the Torrid SS and the Rocket Hammerhead. Also what is your oppinions on the radial X weave arrows. I shot my doe with the radial x weave predator 200 and i moved to the hunter 300. The ones im using now have the "feather" fletchings or whatever their called. What do you guys think????

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i got my son the rage40ke blades with 1.5 inch cut.They cost 45.00 but they are made for 35-55 # setups.The arrows are going to have to be the right spline .So just go to a bow shop and tell them your poundage and draw length and they can set you up.

If you hunt out of a ground blind and plan on shooting thru the window mesh you need fixed blades.I messed up and got the rage then went to go get us a blind and realized on the way there what i was doing.DOH.FACE PALM.So i just build a ground blind.LOL.

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With the lower poundage, I would stay away from mechanicals.. imo ..I know my arrow penetration is less now that I shoot Grim reapers and I shoot a fairly fast bow. Slick trick makes a very good broadhead ,They fly true, and are sharp and tough. If you had the budget I hear great things about Solids and German Kenetics extremely tough and sharp cut on contact heads .Pricey though. In the past I shot all my deer with muzzy ,not as glamorous but they always did the job. I just always hated to resight in my out of tune bow..lol

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The rage looks really nice but also, as a young teen i dont have a good paying job and only work early fall and am on a tight budget. The others are around 20 compared to 40

nice to see a young guy working and thinking about spending his $ wisely. Congrats to your parents for raising a good kid !

Maybe if you have an archery shop nearby you could explain your situation and they could swing you a deal. With the way you think, I am sure you could come up with something. Good luck.

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Not to sound picky, but it's arrow spine, not spline.

oops.ya i don't know what i was thinking.LOL.

OP stay away from any mechanicals that aren't designed for your lower poundage set up.As far as i know the Rage 40ke are the only ones made specificaly for your # DW.

Also what grain head do you shoot now.I had my sons bow tuned for 85gr originally and when i got the 40ke's they only had 100gr.So i had to retune his setup.He also shoots the Diamond edge at 40#.

Edited by arrow nocker
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With the lower poundage, I would stay away from mechanicals.. imo ..I know my arrow penetration is less now that I shoot Grim reapers and I shoot a fairly fast bow. Slick trick makes a very good broadhead ,They fly true, and are sharp and tough. If you had the budget I hear great things about Solids and German Kenetics extremely tough and sharp cut on contact heads .Pricey though. In the past I shot all my deer with muzzy ,not as glamorous but they always did the job. I just always hated to resight in my out of tune bow..lol

I use the grim reapers too and they make a huge hole but not what I recommend for a slower bow. Cabelas arrows are cheaper and fly just as just as good as the expensive Easton axis I use to use. Remember the deer don't know how much the arrow cost that you stuck in them

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if you're wanting to shoot a mechanical head i wouldn't go with the normal cut ones. i'd go with 40KE Rage heads. My wife uses them fine on her bow. i like the design (i shoot Rages too) and the lesser cutting diameter will help with penetration. i'd also shoot a heavier shaft arrow with more grains per inch that's spined right if you choose to shoot a mechanical.

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I agree with Doewhacker on the plain old reliable muzzy 3 blade 75 grain. They are way cheaper than the mechanicals, most of the time you can resharpen them if they hit bone, and they are easy to find at almost any shop. I started with the 75 grain many moons ago, and had so much success with them, I never bothered to change to a heavier one. As for arrows, get what you can afford. The cheapest ones are still straight within 8 thousandths. A human hair is only 5 thousandths thick. Just use the chart on this forum to get the right arrow, and keep practicing. Shot placement is the key. Wait for a clear shot. When you get older and make more money, then you can buy all the fancy equipment you want, but you will find out that a good , clear shot trumps all the fancy stuff.

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And stay away from mechanicals, one less thing to go wrong and more costly.

:alcoholic: let me guess. You'd never buy a bmw and would rather have an 88 cutlass because there are just more things to go wrong with the bmw right? I would agree with you that the first mechanicals that came out weren't as reliable as fixed, but the first lcd and plasmas weren't great either.

I'm sorry but in my family of 8 hunters we've all been using rage for 5+ seasons now and we've never lost a deer (including some bad shots) and the new chisel tip is even more deadly. Everyone has their own preference and it's usually what they shoot. So to add my .02. I changed from carbon beamens this year to carbon express maxima hunter kv arrows (not cheap at @ $180 a dozen but i love them compared to my beamens) and that's not to put the beamens down, they were 4 for 4 with bucks. I have 3 of the arrows equipped with the carbon express lazer eyes but I think i'm switching because they're not what I want.

http://www.carbonexp...axima-hunter-kv

http://www.ragebroad...ml#.UMczm6xdBAY

truth of it all? you can kill a deer with a wooden arrow and a sharp rock tied to the end haha. it's more about the shot then the equipment.

Edited by Belo
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