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Groups not coming together... Is this why?


josephmrtn
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Nice to see that you're getting into shooting a bow.

The problem you have is that you got this bow from doewhacker, JK!

Seriously, I can tell by your arrows on the target that you are having some serious fish tailing with your shots. You'll need to take your bow and favorite arrows to a pro shop or tune it yourself. I learned to tune my bow off the Internet and did it at the range. My range was great and even let me use their paper to paper tune.

Good luck.

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Bite the bullet and get your butt to a pro shop. You will save yourself a ton of aggravation in the long run. They will get your bow set up exactly right and then you have eliminated a lot of variables. I know what it is like for money to be tight, but this is a must if you plan on hunting deer this fall.

 

Like others have said, take your six good arrows and use three for target shooting, and three for hunting. Get rid of the rest. they are causing you all sorts of grief being so different. How can it help you if they all fly different and weigh different? I have had the same dozen arrows for years. My arrows in my quiver have been through numerous deer, and I have only had one that hit the off shoulder blade and hung in the deer long enough to break, so I still have 11 of the original dozen.

 

You are young and new to the sport so I am sure you will keep shooting at the same target until you skewer an arrow or two, or break a few nocks or fletchings. So you better make sure you save a little money for another half dozen arrows. Stick with it and good luck. I know I put a lot more effort into bow hunting now than gun hunting. Maybe you will love it just as much, but you have to start out with a bow that is set up right.

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So many things to think about in archery. Absolutely, your arrows should be matched including every accessory on the arrow. The name of the game is "consistancy"!! Also, be just as critical on consistancy with your form as you are with your equipment (maybe even more so). Consistant anchor is a must ....... Consistant stance .... Consistant grip ..... Consistant shoulder and arm set-up .... Consistant follow through ...... Consistant aiming ..... Consistant-consistant-consistant-consistant. When talking groups, all these things have an impact and repeating the same form and shooting routines are essential. So when it comes to closing down groups, equipment is only one part of it all.

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Take a Sharpie Pen and mark a number on a Vane of each arrow . Shoot at separate spots on the target . If one particular numbered arrow consistantly hits off in one direction , you know you have a flyer and weed that arrow out of your shooting arrows .

 

All the arrows should be close in weight . You wouldn't expect different grain bullets to hit the same would you ?

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Bite the bullet and get your butt to a pro shop. You will save yourself a ton of aggravation in the long run. They will get your bow set up exactly right and then you have eliminated a lot of variables. I know what it is like for money to be tight, but this is a must if you plan on hunting deer this fall.

 

Like others have said, take your six good arrows and use three for target shooting, and three for hunting. Get rid of the rest. they are causing you all sorts of grief being so different. How can it help you if they all fly different and weigh different? I have had the same dozen arrows for years. My arrows in my quiver have been through numerous deer, and I have only had one that hit the off shoulder blade and hung in the deer long enough to break, so I still have 11 of the original dozen.

 

You are young and new to the sport so I am sure you will keep shooting at the same target until you skewer an arrow or two, or break a few nocks or fletchings. So you better make sure you save a little money for another half dozen arrows. Stick with it and good luck. I know I put a lot more effort into bow hunting now than gun hunting. Maybe you will love it just as much, but you have to start out with a bow that is set up right.

 

i agree with all this, but would not discourage you from practicing with your hunting arrows. Maybe you have a reason for this, but I see none. You're not going to "wear out" an arrow.

Edited by Belo
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buy arrows that are all the same (points, length, brand, model, fletching).  different arrows that are even of the same weight with certain points won't flex the same and have the same FOC (balance).  therefore they will most definitely fly different.  by all means practice with hunting arrows.  don't shoot those thunder heads at the same spots though.  you'll shave off fletching or get lucky and robin hood an arrow.

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You are correct Belo. i was just looking at it from a cost perspective. Sooner or later , the hunting arrows must be shot to make sure they are flying right. i don't even know how many times the three arrows in my quiver have been through deer, but they were certainly shot at a target before they were put in the quiver. Then, after the shot, they are inspected, resharpened, fired again at a target just to be certain they are still flying right, and then go right back in my quiver.

 

Fast Eddie mentions a little gimmick that I do also. I just looked in my quiver and can just make out a 3 and a 5 on two of them, and the other one i just can't tell. the reason I numbered mine was just in case I had a broadhead that was not right. It is nice to know when you have a couple fliers and look and see it is the same arrow. Haven't had it happen in years, but you never know when you are going to have a faulty product due to poor shipping or handling.

 

But we are getting a little off track. Right now he needs to get set up and get his muscle memory going, so shooting the bow becomes almost automatic. I mention 3 and 3 also because I only shoot three arrows at a time when I am practicing. Just my preferance. I am in no hurry, and take my time. I don't mind the walking and I shoot from a lot of distances and angles and heights. But, i also have the time or make the time to do a lot of shooting. Joe can't do that until he gets shooting better at 10 yards. He may be shooting fine, but with all the oddball arrows, it is hard to tell.

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joseph

 

Over the more years than I care to admit to, the big factor in not being to group arrows when starting out is not having developed a consistent anchor point. Sure, equipment is important, but it takes time and practice to get in your groove. Watch yourself draw back in the mirror a few times with you eyes closed, then open your eyes and see if it looks the same, or have a friend watch you. Once you get good at hitting the same anchor point each time watch your groups tighten. Happy shooting!

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joseph

 

Over the more years than I care to admit to, the big factor in not being to group arrows when starting out is not having developed a consistent anchor point. Sure, equipment is important, but it takes time and practice to get in your groove. Watch yourself draw back in the mirror a few times with you eyes closed, then open your eyes and see if it looks the same, or have a friend watch you. Once you get good at hitting the same anchor point each time watch your groups tighten. Happy shooting!

 

Ive had my bro take pics of me shooting and have been sending them to a good friend of mine for tips...

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I love this type of question, as a archery shop owner, till 2 years ago . I retired and now just live the retired life of shooting each day etc. I have to say the best thing is to shoot one brand and all the same length and tip weight. But even my self these days being retired, I have some gold tip, Easton and one other brand that are a mixed bag etc, but they are all the same length, same fletch, and 100 gr field points in them. SO at 5 yards to 25 yards they sure seem to fly the same. But after 30 yards if you weight each arrow I am sure would will start to find some difference in weight of 40 to 100 grains, this much can make a difference in the longer shots.

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Nice to see that you're getting into shooting a bow.

The problem you have is that you got this bow from doewhacker, JK!

Seriously, I can tell by your arrows on the target that you are having some serious fish tailing with your shots. You'll need to take your bow and favorite arrows to a pro shop or tune it yourself. I learned to tune my bow off the Internet and did it at the range. My range was great and even let me use their paper to paper tune.

Good luck.

I found the prob... bent arrows! lol

ive heard paper tuning is a bunch of bull $h*t and makes it WAY harder for a newbie who dont know what he is doin... i never saw a point in it myself

 

Take a Sharpie Pen and mark a number on a Vane of each arrow . Shoot at separate spots on the target . If one particular numbered arrow consistantly hits off in one direction , you know you have a flyer and weed that arrow out of your shooting arrows .

 

All the arrows should be close in weight . You wouldn't expect different grain bullets to hit the same would you ?

 

I did that also... quickly eliminated arrows no 3 and 5 lol

I love this type of question, as a archery shop owner, till 2 years ago . I retired and now just live the retired life of shooting each day etc. I have to say the best thing is to shoot one brand and all the same length and tip weight. But even my self these days being retired, I have some gold tip, Easton and one other brand that are a mixed bag etc, but they are all the same length, same fletch, and 100 gr field points in them. SO at 5 yards to 25 yards they sure seem to fly the same. But after 30 yards if you weight each arrow I am sure would will start to find some difference in weight of 40 to 100 grains, this much can make a difference in the longer shots.

+1

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Another thing to consider is that if your arrows dont fly straight with field tips they will look like a knuckleball when you put broadheads on them! Besides getting bent, aluminum arrows can also get dented from being hit with another arrow and it will be very hard to notice. Get yourself some carbon arrows, either they're broke or they're good. No need to worry about them being bent or dented. If you're worried about ruining them when practicing, just put 5 different bullseyes on your target and shoot one arrow at each one per round.

Edited by Arrow Flinger
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At 10 yards you should have trouble NOT taking out your other fletchings. Get the bow tuned by a pro shop. Shoot the same arrows with the same fletchings and points. Focus on your anchor points. I personally have 3 points of contact. Where my knuckle touches behind my ear, the kisser button on my lip, and the string touching my nose. Do that and your groups will tighten right up.

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Another thing to consider is that if your arrows dont fly straight with field tips they will look like a knuckleball when you put broadheads on them! Besides getting bent, aluminum arrows can also get dented from being hit with another arrow and it will be very hard to notice. Get yourself some carbon arrows, either they're broke or they're good. No need to worry about them being bent or dented. If you're worried about ruining them when practicing, just put 5 different bullseyes on your target and shoot one arrow at each one per round.

Either broke or good? What about the one that explodes when you shoot? How does one tell when that will happen? :) just stirring the pot lol

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Another thing to consider is that if your arrows dont fly straight with field tips they will look like a knuckleball when you put broadheads on them! Besides getting bent, aluminum arrows can also get dented from being hit with another arrow and it will be very hard to notice. Get yourself some carbon arrows, either they're broke or they're good. No need to worry about them being bent or dented. If you're worried about ruining them when practicing, just put 5 different bullseyes on your target and shoot one arrow at each one per round.

Either broke or good? What about the one that explodes when you shoot? How does one tell when that will happen? :) just stirring the pot lol

Flex test and bend test.

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If you are in the Oneonta area I would be more than willing to help you get the arrows to fly. send me a note etc. I am a old fart that retired I have time to help etc. I also suggest with alum arrows the biggest problem with them is over time they start to have issue and will fly bad. A carbon shaft is either good or bad. But with all shaft you have to keep checking them as you pull them from the target or a miss. I always check to see if any splinters, if yes, that the of the arrow. Do not have to have a arrow break up as you release it....I also always suggest joining a local archery club, lots of guys willing to help a new hunter archer with tuning and hunting tips etc...

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bring your bow to a pro shop have them tune it and buy arrows... all the exact same brand spine length and fletchings. Then get the same field points and shoot away. 25 grains will make a difference.  Shoot carbons they are either perfect or broken... and a 2 year old can tell the difference.

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Another thing to consider is that if your arrows dont fly straight with field tips they will look like a knuckleball when you put broadheads on them! Besides getting bent, aluminum arrows can also get dented from being hit with another arrow and it will be very hard to notice. Get yourself some carbon arrows, either they're broke or they're good. No need to worry about them being bent or dented. If you're worried about ruining them when practicing, just put 5 different bullseyes on your target and shoot one arrow at each one per round.

I put my broad heads on and tried it and they fly WAY better than my field tips... deadly accurite

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