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new year is it time for a new bow ?


sweet old bill
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seems the new 2014  bows are out and now is the time to pick up a left over bow from a dealer at about 1/3 less than in Oct.

 

I got a new 2013 PSE drive compound bow that should meet my needs for the coming year. great back wall and the draw is very smooth.

 

anyone out there shoot one and how do you like it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

seems the new 2014  bows are out and now is the time to pick up a left over bow from a dealer at about 1/3 less than in Oct.

 

I got a new 2013 PSE drive compound bow that should meet my needs for the coming year. great back wall and the draw is very smooth.

 

anyone out there shoot one and how do you like it.

 

I have a PSE Drive in Skullworks camo and equipped it pretty nicely and I absolutely love it. It is a little heavy but shoots like a dream. Not to mention it is a great looking bow.

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  • 4 weeks later...

picked up a new leftover 2013 bow.  swapping out accessories and buying new ones too.  i'll have bows setup for specific things; one for hunting, one for outdoor 3D, and one for indoor spots.

Don't want to Hijack the thread just have to ask I use my hunting bow for hunting & 3D

I don't have indoor around me

what is different in your setups between hunting & 3D

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I just ordered a Hoyt Carbon Spyder 34 a couple weeks ago. I shot all the new bows this year and the Hoyt Carbons were the best for me. Everyone likes different things about bows so its best to test out as many as you can before buying. I put on a lot of miles this winter driving around to different shops to shoot them. I even drove an hour away to shoot the Carbon Spyder Turbo after I had already shot the Carbon Spyder 30 at another shop. I just wanted to see if it felt any different than the other Carbons, and it did. Wasn;t for me, so I went with the 34

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Don't want to Hijack the thread just have to ask I use my hunting bow for hunting & 3D

I don't have indoor around me

what is different in your setups between hunting & 3D

 

 

Can't speak for the poster, but often 3D set ups are lighter arrow with greater speed (ie forgiveness in distance errors) and perhaps lighter poundage.

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Once I got over the new bow each year fetish, I spent that time actually hunting, or doing hunting things.

 

I now find it a waste time and money to repeat this year after year. I could see someone maybe looking every 3-5 years, but bows aren't THAT revolutionary with each model year.

 

My pair of Z-28s are staying in the stable for this year and maybe next. That'll put me at 5 years with them. They haven't let me down yet.

 

I get my bow dialed in and I don't screw with it. It's a hunting machine...a tool.

Edited by phade
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Once I got over the new bow each year fetish, I spent that time actually hunting, or doing hunting things.

 

I now find it a waste time and money to repeat this year after year. I could see someone maybe looking every 3-5 years, but bows aren't THAT revolutionary with each model year.

 

My pair of Z-28s are staying in the stable for this year and maybe next. That'll put me at 5 years with them. They haven't let me down yet.

 

I get my bow dialed in and I don't screw with it. It's a hunting machine...a tool.

 

Right on , Phade ! Some guys have to have the newest and latest . Big deal , the new bow is 15 fps faster ...... gotta have it mentality ......  If it works , don't fix it !

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Don't want to Hijack the thread just have to ask I use my hunting bow for hunting & 3D

I don't have indoor around me

what is different in your setups between hunting & 3D

 

it's easier to become good at judging yardage opposed to shooting with perfect form every time.  speed is nice but a good balance of speed versus forgiveness is better.

 

my hunting bow is a PSE Evo.  It's a little shorter axle-to-axle than my 3D, so it's easier to deal with in a ground blind or treestand.  It's a little less forgiving (6" brace height) but it's faster which allows me to shoot a heavier arrow (more penetration) with less noticeable drop.  I have a 1/4" peep that the circular pin guard housing ring fits perfectly into.  the bigger peep lets in more light to see near hours of dusk and dawn.  plus the bigger 2" sight housing allows me to fit more of the animal into view.  I have fixed pins so I can see the exact trajectory of my arrow.  if I have my 40 yard pin on a deer vitals but my 20 yard pin is lined up with a branch that's 20 yards away I know the arrow is going to make contact with the branch.  it's got a shorter stabilizer that's more for vibration dampening, but to keep a decent balance.  with the bows 6" braceheight and geometry it already wants to roll forward without a stabilizer.  it's 60-70 lbs draw weight, in case I hunt something that needs more punch like bear or moose and elk elsewhere.

 

my 3D bow is a PSE Bowmaddess 3G.  It's a little longer axle-to-axle with allows me to feel if I'm canting it left or right that would throw my shots off left or right. easy to do on a side hill.  the longer 7" brace height isn't as fast but still fast enough and more forgiving.  it helps when you're not shooting with perfect form which would be much easier on a football field or spot most people shoot from in their backyard, compared to the hills and slopes of a 3D course.  I have a longer stabilizer that gets weight further out, helping slow motion of the pin and minimize effects from any slight torque on the grip.  it's still under 12" so it's manageable to hunt with.  my balance is still ok.  the stabilizer is offset by the longer brace height and geometry that had the bow tipping back without it.  my setup sight wise is all completely the same dimensions and alignment, except the sight is a single pin with a geared yardage dial.  this allows for a transition to hunting, but with more precision.  I dial the yardage and aim the pin exactly on the spot I intend to hit.  I don't have to put the spot somewhere in between fixed pins.  the bow has a 50-60lb draw weight.  everyone shoots more accurately at 60lbs versus 70lbs, with all other things being equal.  I can keep my speed up still by shooting a light arrow, still correctly spined and with at least 5 grains per pound.  I've still got plenty of energy and penetration for deer sized game at average hunting distances.  remember I said this has to serve as a backup hunting bow.

 

I break down every component on each bow and tell you exactly why it's specifically the one I wanted on there.  Without typing for days, that's the short and sweet version.

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