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jjb4900
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How far past the rest and or riser do most of you have your arrows cut? I just had a dozen made up and they seem to be a little longer then I had hoped, guy at the pro shop measured me for them and he came up with 30.5 inches and scaled them back to 30 for me, they still seem to have been able to have been cut shorter as they still are about an 1" past the riser. I have a full containment drop away rest and really wanted them as far back as possible.

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5 minutes ago, growalot said:

Mine are what they are out of the box..I think 31 or 32. Because I shoot no sights and I'm rt. handed bow ..lft eye dominate. SO I need to ask why do you want a shorter arrow?

just personal preference, I don't see the need to have an extra inch or two sticking out past the riser..there really is no good reason behind it other then that.

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Just today I whacked an inch off my OLD arrows.  I hung out probably two inches past the end of the riser for years, just because when I switched bows a number of year ago I used what was working good in the old bow worked good in the new one........

So, last week I cut a half dozen arrows for a friend and couldn't believe how short his were and he is about my height/arm length.  (I'm fatter but better looking.....)

I put one of his arrows on my string and drew it back.  There was plenty of clearance for my safety and piece of mind.  I was bored a bit this morning so fired up the arrow saw and sliced an inch off my current arrows.  I bought a dozen new ones a few days ago and will cut them to the same length as the ones I did today, AFTER I go to a bow shoot tomorrow and make sure all is good, as I suspect.

There's nothing wrong with being a bit too long, a bit more mass can't hurt.

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the longer your arrow the weaker the dynamic spine will be , a shorter arrow will be a stiffer arrow AS long as it is the right spine for your bow to begin with (if your arrow is under spined for your bow it will never be stiff enough) . I will tune my arrows to my bow, I start out with a longer than needed arrow and I will cut a 1/4 to1/2 inch off at a time on the nock end until I find that length that tunes extremly easy from my bow. and as a rule of thumb a stiff arrow will always tune better than a weak arrow.

Edited by rob-c
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On 9/4/2016 at 7:16 PM, growalot said:

Mine are what they are out of the box..I think 31 or 32. Because I shoot no sights and I'm rt. handed bow ..lft eye dominate. SO I need to ask why do you want a shorter arrow?

growalot - my daughter (15 yr old) is also right hand shooter /left eye dominant.. Any tips for her as far as aiming?  Do you keep left eye closed or open?

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I leave both open and keep my arrows long for ,even though I say "instinctive" aim down arrow.  So broad head tip to target.That said it may work better for her to close her her right eye... Now right after this you will get many guys telling you the "best" thing to do Is get her to hunt with a left handed bow....I will not because everyone one is different and wired differently. That just may work for some but others It won't period. Making it more frustrating and  more work than it needs to be. It can push them away from wanting to learn. I am lucky that I had a good instructor that did not try to change how I shot because he saw it was natural for me and worked well. Now there are sights out there that she could use and will work. One being The Peep eliminator for left eye dominance. Now I had one I won and in practice it was GREAT! I was shooting 1-2 inch groups at 40 yrds...Then the first time hunting a live animal I choked and got a marginal hit on a record book buck...sold bow sight and all...went back to instinctive (no sights) hunting with a new rt. handed Mission Venture.... See I spent years and years having the full picture...seeing the entire deer and arrow at shot ...not just the sight picture..It messed with my mind... She may not have such a problem if starting out with a sight...It really is like a rifle sight and easy to sight in... Gosh I won another one last year but told them to keep it for someone else...wish I had it now I would send it to you...

http://www.peepeliminator.com/features

 

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well, I just tried removing the inserts with the drill bit down the shaft method and after doing two I noticed the arrows where bulging at the point where the original insert was glued in, so that's two I won't even attempt to use.....guess I'll use them as is or find someone who wants them at the current length.

Edited by jjb4900
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well, I just tried removing the inserts with the drill bit down the shaft method and after doing two I noticed the arrows where bulging at the point where the original insert was glued in, so that's two I won't even attempt to use.....guess I'll use them as is or find someone who wants them at the current length.



Wow...they are tight this method worked great on my old arrows

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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for a hunting bow that extra inch won't make a much of a difference as long as spine for the setup is correct.  you're only gaining a few feet per second which isn't much at hunting distances.  so those that need the speed are full of crap.  those that say they like the arrow out their for safety and to keep all your fingers are full of crap.  fingers shouldn't and really can't be anywhere near the arrow path.

no reason to change them but if it's making you lose sleep at night or at least bothering your brain then that's a legit reason.  have enough to worry about when shooting at something, so you shouldn't have to worry about your equipment too.

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The old rule of thumb was an inch longer than your draw length.

That was because most rests put the end of the arrow near the far side of the grip, the extra inch was so you didn't cut your bow hand/fingers with a broadhead.

 

Now the rests are so much higher and further back, any of the above sound good.

But I wonder about the spine stiffness statements, the carbons nowadays seem to cover so much ground and the arrows are so center shot that at least the manufactures don't seem to believe they are a spine sensitive as they used to be.

The box the arrows I use came in says they cover from about 25"-31" and 40-65 lbs in about any combination.

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Cutting for the best tune makes sense but I never understood the need to cut it as close to the rest as is possible to avoid overhang for more maneuverability.  The majority of the arrow is still way out in front before drawing and typically in that position when maneuvering to position for a shot.  I try not to have to move around while at full draw.

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I generally shoot between 1 1/2" - 2" longer then my draw. For me, yes the old " blade behind the hand " thing, and I always felt a little longer arrow made sure the blades never touch the bow. There's enough that can go wrong using a bow that everything you can do to put odds more in your favor is a good thing. IMO.

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