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Sooo..Folks With Mechanical Knowledge....

DirtTime

By DirtTime,
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DirtTime Mentor

DirtTime

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4 minutes ago, GreeneHunter said:

I hear his sister is pretty hot !:taunt:

Sister is a, um, well, not sure how to post this on here. Has fake boobs and a twig and berries if you know what I mean. Don't you watch You Tube?

 

LMAO!

 

 

OK, lets get back to serious. Clues on what to with this electrical situation for my Jeep?

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rob-c Experienced

rob-c

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9 minutes ago, Rob... said:

Sister is a, um, well, not sure how to post this on here. Has fake boobs and a twig and berries if you know what I mean. Don't you watch You Tube?

 

LMAO!

 

 

OK, lets get back to serious. Clues on what to with this electrical situation for my Jeep?

Did you see my battery testing post ? 

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rob-c Experienced

rob-c

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1 hour ago, rob-c said:

When you had the alternator tested did they turn on the lights, radio, heater fan, 4 ways etc. A alternator should be tested under a load and you should still see a reading of 13 volts plus with everything on. 

This one ^^

 

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OldNewbie Newbie

OldNewbie

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Back to trying to solve this guys problem.. Seems to me that:

If the battery is almost dead you get a click click click sound -- not the case here.

The whirring noise is the starter motor spinning but the starter clutch is not engaging, and the engine cylinders are not turning over. This points to the starter solenoid being bad or having a bad connection. I would start there.

 

Don't assume a connection is good just because it looks good. Had a dead battery/no start issue on my boat once. Drove me nuts. Finally discovered it was the brand new replacement battery cable clamp that had come loose from the cable -- it was still attached, just not connecting well. Only discovered via a random accidental jiggle while checking something else.

 

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nyslowhand Enthusiast

nyslowhand

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click, click = dead battery, alternator not recharging it, bad wire or connection draining battery, starter solenoid engaging

whir, whir = starter 

thump, thump = pounding your head for a solution

ka ching, ka ching = replacing parts that might not need to be

Take vehicle to a shop specializing in auto electronics. I did a few years ago, guy found problem in 3-4min with a voltmeter, no diag charge, gave him $20, about a $15 part, installed it myself and problem solved. No more musical car problems!

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Just Lucky Proficient

Just Lucky

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11 hours ago, rob-c said:

Also a easy way to check for a draw is make sure every thing is off doors are shut etc. and pull the + battery cable off and put test light in line from cable to battery if there is even a slight flicker of light you have a draw .

All new vehicles have some draw, and when you disconnect battery cable and reinstall modules will wake up. Not a way to test modern vehicles cause it will give false results. 

Use an amp clamp around negative battery cable and see how many milliamps are being drawn. Wait around 30 minutes for modules to go asleep and look at reading. Industry standard is 50 mAmps max, however if its over 30 its too high imo. Then start to remove fuses till draw goes away then you will know which system is the issue.

You could also measure milli volts across fuses without pulling them but then you have to convert over to mA to determine. 

 

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Northsox65 Newbie

Northsox65

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Ok, now lets listen to a Mechanic,,,,,,

First check connections on Battery, take them off, clean them with a wire brush, make sure they are tight when you put them on.

Try to Jump the Jeep, if It starts then you can rule out The Starter.

If it starts you need to put a voltmeter on you pos and neg post of the battery, it should read 13 volts, rev up your engine and it should go as high as 14.5 volts. if it does not then your alt is shot.

If your alt is doing its job then you have a short/draw somewhere that is draining your battery, you can either trace wires and find the short, or disconnect your battery every night so it doesn't go dead.

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Arcade Hunter Rising Star

Arcade Hunter

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On 11/14/2018 at 7:10 AM, Just Lucky said:

All new vehicles have some draw, and when you disconnect battery cable and reinstall modules will wake up. Not a way to test modern vehicles cause it will give false results. 

Use an amp clamp around negative battery cable and see how many milliamps are being drawn. Wait around 30 minutes for modules to go asleep and look at reading. Industry standard is 50 mAmps max, however if its over 30 its too high imo. Then start to remove fuses till draw goes away then you will know which system is the issue.

You could also measure milli volts across fuses without pulling them but then you have to convert over to mA to determine. 

 

Bingo.  Parasitic draw 

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DirtTime Mentor

DirtTime

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It starts now with a few real low turns, then fires. I do not realize, those $50 chargers suck a$$ though.

 

Just not enough confidence to take anywhere I have to shut it off.

 

Time to make an appointment with my mechanic I guess. Neighbor doesn't have the proper tools to test everything.

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nosquibs Newbie

nosquibs

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I haven't read all the posts so this may have been covered. 

#1 The alternator will not go click click (sorry just had to say it)

A quick and free alternator test you can do with a piece of steel, a hack saw blade is great or a screwdriver works too. With the engine running just place the blade near the rear bearing of the alternator, if it's charging there will be a magnetic field that will pull the blade to the bearing. Be CAREFULL NOT TO TOUCH THE ELECTRIC TERMINALS!

 

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DirtTime Mentor

DirtTime

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I got it in for testing. Alt is good, battery was bad. Bought a new battery and put in today when the rain stopped. Fires up just fine now. Was suggested, like a few have mentioned there's a bad wire/short somewhere. Just hoping to baby through the holiday season, and then get it in to see where the short is.

Edited by Rob...
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