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Bought a poulon pro 20"

 

It was in bad shape. But started. Cleaned it all up ordered new parts and replaced them.

 

One of which was the brake. It was broke.

 

I got the new one on and fired it up for the first time.

 

Took a few pulls but she started and ran and the brake worked.

 

There was alot of smoke which I thought was odd.

 

Filled the bar and chain reservoir before starting.

 

This is what I got.

 

Sprayed some chain lube on the flywheel once I got it apart again. And it was so hot it smoked.

 

What happened here? Was the brake clamp too tight?

My error or poor replacement part?5595112ae820d7f951b07be54d24afc9.jpg9c26b5c19c23a7cbfbd99968036570e6.jpg9847e2ee9fdb8fbaffa89d6f2e030033.jpg

 

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Should clarify. One pic is the old brake. One is the melted new brake.

Now that I think about it.. could a bar that is too tight cause this? There was some slack in the chain but not so much I could pull the teeth out of the guide.

Or did I clean the flywheel too much thereby getting rid of all lube and I should have relubed it?

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I should add that since she started rough I let it warm up a minute and then gave some throttle with the brake on. Then disengaged the brake and she ran.

Some googling tells me that revving it with the brake on can do this?

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looks like the new brake is too small. did you compare them prior to assembly. definitely melted your case cover and everything. the older Poulans built in Canada were good but the new ones are kind of a big box store saw. i don't think the bar did it. should be able to pinch and pull up the chain but still keep guide fins in the bar rails. that wouldn't have done it. i don't lube the flywheel and brake. depending on what you put on it might burn/heat up the brake. when installed there shouldn't be contact when the brake is pushed forward it contacts the flywheel. i always pull the cover and keep that wiped out between uses. it'll build up sawdust in there. so too clean isn't something that'd do it.


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5 minutes ago, zeus1gdsm said:

I should add that since she started rough I let it warm up a minute and then gave some throttle with the brake on. Then disengaged the brake and she ran.

Some googling tells me that revving it with the brake on can do this?

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don't rev it with the brake. it should want to stall it out. start it cold half choke or no choke to idle smooth with brake on. then take brake off and then rev it up. that's what may have done it but i'm not convinced the brake fit right to begin with. it's a mechanical brake though not clutch. you hit the gas and it'll want to turn the chain and sprocket.


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I once forgot to put the little pin bearings back under my clutch sprocket on one of my Stihls and she smoked like an old lady at a bingo hall! The sprocket was flopping around out of control against the brake.


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18 minutes ago, Steve D said:

Mistake # 1

while i agree they do work totally fine. just not a saw you'd rebuild and bring back to life. at that point and cost you'd just buy another one. the older green poulans made in canada were very good saws though that lasted a life time.

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2 minutes ago, wooly said:

I once forgot to put the little pin bearings back under my clutch sprocket on one of my Stihls and she smoked like an old lady at a bingo hall! The sprocket was flopping around out of control against the brake.

screw up the driveshaft to where you tore the motor apart?


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18 minutes ago, zeus1gdsm said:

I should add that since she started rough I let it warm up a minute and then gave some throttle with the brake on. Then disengaged the brake and she ran.

Some googling tells me that revving it with the brake on can do this?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Well there you go, mistake made and learned from. The brake is there for safety, if the saw kicks back the brake stops the chain from rotating. One should never intentionally try to run the saw while purposely having the brake on . 

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1 minute ago, dbHunterNY said:

screw up the driveshaft to where you tore the motor apart?

Not at all.

German engineering protects the Stihl's from dumb Polocks like me,lol

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1 minute ago, wooly said:

Not at all.

German engineering protects the Stihl's from dumb Polocks like me,lol

i have a 16" orange Stihl bar cover on an 18" bar attached to a Husqvarna 346XP professional saw. i stir the pot constantly saying it's the fastest orange saw i'll ever own. i have one because a couple friends either own or owned shops that carry them is all. drives die hard Stihl guys nuts, especially when they only get a half look at the saw in the back of the truck and praise it for 20 minutes only to discover it's not a stihl.


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4 minutes ago, Nytracker said:

Notorious  for bad oil pump  for bar and chain

some use summer oil that's veggie based and too thick for colder months. bar heats up and can't figure out why it's not getting much oil. even turning up to full flow. i was guilty of it too one time. don't know much about these box store Poulan "Pro"s though.


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So it seems the consensus is the housing for the brake is possibly too small.

Or by revving it with the brake on it generated too much heat. Aka user error.

I'm only I to this saw for 90$ total.

I'm fine with throwing another 50 at it.

If I do. Are there some internal bushings or anything I should get since I revved it a bit with the brake on?

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saws normally get pretty hot. just check what bearings you can get to for tracking and loseness. if they aren't totally sealed then repack them with grease using the palm of your hand. the heat may have made it all run from the looks of it unless that's all from the lube you used. check the brake (meaning the steel band for fit next time) plus i think you might want a new plastic housing cover and maybe a brake "handle". the plastic housing/cover to the saw is molded to keep the brake and clutch as clean as feasible. given it's spinning the chain with material on it. plus the plastic might be deformed causing you to lose clearances. don't rev with brake on and don't lube the brake assembly (clutch bell and high strength steel band. that might all cost you more than $50 though unless you shop the internet or something for parts or a parts saw. 


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13 minutes ago, wooly said:

Just noticed an additional FYI... it looks like your chain is on backwards in that last pic too.

 

I've done that.

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Just noticed an additional FYI... it looks like your chain is on backwards in that last pic too.
 
Didnt even notice. It is! I guess hes got a list of stuff to sort out.

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OP, don't want to rub salt into your wounds regarding your efforts at making a used chainsaw come back to life! Admire your DIY tenacity! Problem basically revolves around trying to make a lower $ & disposable chainsaw fully functional again. Echo, Poulon and a few other brands are in the lower priced range for a reason. They have their light-duty uses also, homeowners wanting a chainsaw to cut up a few limbs occasionally. To add to this issue, typical homeowners using a chainsaw have no clue how to maintain it. Pretty much abuse them until they die and get a new cheapo saw!

What you have photo'ed looks similar to a Husquvarna sprocket assy. Mine needs oiling before/during use as they don't used sealed sprocket bearings. Don't have my owner's manual in front of me, but I never start a saw w/brake on either my Stihl or Husky. Only suggestion I have is to search for the correct owner's  manual for that specific chainsaw model. A good starting place.

Be warned - If you get super frustrated and decide to use a small engine repair service. the authorized Stihl/Husky sales & service near me gets ~$90/hr labor.

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i typically don't put the brake on when starting either but in about every owner's manual i've seen it says to with it on a flat surface/ground, one hand on the handle cross bar, and the other on the pull cord. if it's running right you shouldn't need to give it gas to start. first starting just use choke and prime. i agree though this saw is probably not worth the effort at this point. i think he's going to be spending more than $50 this round for parts. Echo isn't a bad brand. like the others they have small budget saws and ones that are great. each model is different for dependability. ask a small engine shop what they sell and what comes back. they'll be able to tell you without hesitation. agreed labor isn't cheap and it's not the saw to bring in to get fixed. i think the OP knows that though.


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I always have the brake engaged during a cold start on my 170 and 018.

Full choke till she burps.., then at half choke they both usually fire over on the 1'st pull. When that happens the saw is running wide open until you hit the throttle to knock the idle down, THEN the master switch returns to the normal idle run position by itself as soon as you touch the trigger.

I don't want that chain spinning at full throttle for that brief period while I've only got one hand on the saw and the least control over it for that second or two that it takes to get on the gas again. With the brake on I have control at all times and can hear the idle cut back as soon as I pop the trigger with the brake set.

There should be ZERO movement from your chain when the brake is engaged even at full throttle. The brake should stop the chain IMMEDIATELY even if the saw is running wide open. If it is moving, then your brake's NOT working properly and is an accident waiting to happen.

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22 hours ago, zeus1gdsm said:

So it seems the consensus is the housing for the brake is possibly too small.

Or by revving it with the brake on it generated too much heat. Aka user error.

I'm only I to this saw for 90$ total.

I'm fine with throwing another 50 at it.

If I do. Are there some internal bushings or anything I should get since I revved it a bit with the brake on?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I'd be cautious as to how much you invest in that poulan,for a few bucks more you can get a more quality saw. I've got stihl saws, a 170,039 and a 441 all get used and work flawlessly.

Edited by sbuff

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