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chiefbkt
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What are the most important improvements you can make to your bow set up to help you become a better archer? I've been looking at a lot of used bows for sale and have noticed many different set ups. Just wondering what people thought were the most important to spend money on. Personally I would start with a quality rest and sight. What do y'all think?

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I'd focus less on the actual bow, and more on the archer. With that said, my biggest issue was wrist torque. They make some grips that can help/eliminate the issue. I guess I would recommend you analyze your shot and determine what it is that you're doing. Are you just inconsistent, or are you shooting low/high/left/right more often then you like (assuming your sight is on). Then, sort of like a golfer will do, you can work on these flaws and/or buy something to help you.

 

One thing I bought recently for my Matthews was a drop away to do away with my whisker biscuit and I love it. Then there are the usual stabilizer, balancers, better arrows etc.

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I agree with Belo. You can have a $1000 bow or a $200 bow. If the archer has poor form, then the cost of the bow or doodads on it won't help one bit. 

 

My biggest issue was wrist torque as well. But after installing the Square-up, I've been shooting tighter groups and have broken off a couple of nocks (no robin hoods yet)  I also switched from a WB to a NAP drop away and again back to the whisker biscuit which I think helps me align the shot and shoot more accurately.  But that's just me . . .

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I agree with the guys....I don't use sights so if it were installed equipment I have to say a really good rest...I use to have dampeners but with the Venture ...it's so quite I don't need them now...but tuning and form are the things that really make both bow and shooter look good....

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Pretty much everything sold for bows is of quality, is usually just a preference on brand name. Shooting form is most important, but if any gadget helps it would be a good angle compensating rangefinder. Not part of a bow but most "misses" are from judging distance wrong.... the best rest or sight in the world wont help you if you cant judge range right!

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 A good bow sling can put that wrist torque in check.

 

Good point . Before I put a Bow Sling on my bow I gripped the bow too hard for fear of dropping the bow . I was torquing the bow . Once I had the sling on I was able to shoot without gripping .

A Whisker Biscuit is an excellent rest ( if you aren't shooting Quick-Spin Vanes ) .

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a good stabilizer will help your groups dramatically, regardless of how fancy your rig is.

I had a stabilizer on my first bow and just assumed i would need one for my new mission bow. Guy in the shop recommended I shoot without a stabilize first..good groups. Then put on the stabilize and shot a very similar group. I decided to shoot without one and never really missed having it.

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What are the most important improvements you can make to your bow set up to help you become a better archer? I've been looking at a lot of used bows for sale and have noticed many different set ups. Just wondering what people thought were the most important to spend money on. Personally I would start with a quality rest and sight. What do y'all think?

Making sure the bow fits you like a glove, most people draw lengths are way to long. A 1/2 draw length to long or short will wreak havoc on your groups. Have someone knowledgeable in archery watch you shoot and let them comment on your setup.  And lower your poundage, no one cares you can pull 80 pounds...and you look like an idiot reaching for the sky to get the bow back... Realize every bow made today will shoot better than your capable of, and sometimes unfortunately its not the equipment fault...its the Indian using it .

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I had a stabilizer on my first bow and just assumed i would need one for my new mission bow. Guy in the shop recommended I shoot without a stabilize first..good groups. Then put on the stabilize and shot a very similar group. I decided to shoot without one and never really missed having it.

Do you use a bow sling? Does your bow fall forward after the release?

If your patterns are the same then that's all good.

 

IMO the stablizer gives just a bit of added weight so the bow falls forward consistantly when the arrow is loosed.

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1  start with a kiss

 

keep it simple stupid.

 

2  prior to buying anything go to a good pro shop and get measured for what your draw is, start with a bow in the 50 to 60 range if you are a adult male...

 

3  check out archery talk.com lots of good bows for sale in the 400 range  compare to 900 for a new top of the line bow.

 

4  when buying arrow make sure the spine fits the bow peak weight and, draw length

 

5  a simple 3 pin sight in .029 fiber optic will meet all your needs.

 

6  get the bow if purchased used checked out and tuned at a pro shop and or if you have a buddy that can do it for you.

 

7 as you start to shoot say close in the 10 to 20 yard range, work on your form, as you get better groups of arrows then move back and get your pins signed in at 15, 25, 35 yards

 

8  have fun , you have started on a life long enjoyment

 

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I had a stabilizer on my first bow and just assumed i would need one for my new mission bow. Guy in the shop recommended I shoot without a stabilize first..good groups. Then put on the stabilize and shot a very similar group. I decided to shoot without one and never really missed having it.

 

I found the short 4 inch rubber stabs to be an absolute waste of money. My current setup, i brought to my shop and said i wanna stabilizer can i shoot a few. After 3 or 4, i found one that seemed to balance everything right for me, and my groups went from 3-4 inches to arrows touching each other. Nothing is going to work the same for everyone, if it did, bow buying and setup would be quick and easy, and wheres the fun it that? lol

 

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A lot of good info here. I will agree with the proper shooting form. I don't have anyone nearby so what I do is set up the video camera. This way I can critique my own form. Pretty interesting to watch if you have never done that before. You notice a lot of little things that you are doing wrong or that you didn't realize you did. For instance, the first time I watched myself I noticed that I close both eyes for a split second when I get to full draw, then open my right only. Not sure why, but I do.

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A lot of good info here. I will agree with the proper shooting form. I don't have anyone nearby so what I do is set up the video camera. This way I can critique my own form. Pretty interesting to watch if you have never done that before. You notice a lot of little things that you are doing wrong or that you didn't realize you did. For instance, the first time I watched myself I noticed that I close both eyes for a split second when I get to full draw, then open my right only. Not sure why, but I do.

 

believe it or not, you should actually leave both eyes open. I can't ever seem to do it, but professional archers will tell you this is the proper form.

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Practice.  I shoot 2 -3 times per week because I enjoy shooting and I live close to a good indoor range.  Some improvements I have made which I feel were worthwhile are as follows:

 

1) My former peep was the type with the surgical tubing, I now use a meta peep and it is much better.

2) My former rest was a whisker biscuit.  This is a great hunting rest and a real game changer over the years, still very adequate for hunting.  I switched to a QAD drop away rest just to add a bit more precision.

3) I shoot with both eyes open.  About 2 years ago I decided to do this.  It only took about 20 shots to adopt this as routine. Simple.

4) Not an accuracy improvement, but I love FMJ(full metal jacket) arrows.  It is much easier removing these arrows from target buts and 3D's

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