arrow flight

[2012_taco]

I just picked up a 2013 Elite Hunter and had it set up for me. (included timing, center shot and paper tuning) I was sighting in my new sites and I couldn't help but notice the the arrows were flying with what looked like a tail spin or corkscrewing. They seemed to be consistent and I was able to site in at 20 yds. but I am concerned that the arrow flight with broadheads will be terrible. I know that the arrows are not hitting the drop away rest as the shop checked that out. Any suggestions? 

[NFA-ADK]

Make sure your form is good!  Simply put form is everything and will cause arrows to fly improperly even if the bow is set up correct.

 

After you get your form perfect with a open hand and no torch on your lead hand, try to see if a paper tune shows any issues. 

 

If your form is good and the arrow rest is set up properly your shots should line up perfectly from 10 yards to 70 or as far as you can shoot.  If they start to go to the left or right at long distances your arrow rest might be off.  As long as your form is good.  (Make sure your bubble level is perfect!)

 

Try doing a walk back tune to check arrow rest and then if that is good check the paper tune. 

 

Make a note of the exact spot the rest is in now.  Up down and left right so you can put it back to that spot if needed. 

 

Make sure your arrow spine is correct for your bow, I see some shops sell lighter arrows to improve speed but does not match the bow.

 

EX: 65 lbs bow require a 340 shaft.

 

Good luck hope this helps. 

Edited May 13, 2014 by NFA-ADK

[mlammerhirt]

What are the arrow specs?

 

Was this every arrow you shot?? or just one in particular?

 

[2012_taco]

Make sure your form is good!  Simply put form is everything and will cause arrows to fly improperly even if the bow is set up correct.

 

After you get your form perfect with a open hand and no torch on your lead hand, try to see if a paper tune shows any issues. 

 

If your form is good and the arrow rest is set up properly your shots should line up perfectly from 10 yards to 70 or as far as you can shoot.  If they start to go to the left or right at long distances your arrow rest might be off.  As long as your form is good. 

 

Try doing a walk back tune to check arrow rest and then if that is good check the paper tune. 

 

Make a note of the exact spot the rest is in now.  Up down and left right so you can put it back to that spot if needed. 

 

Good luck hope this helps. 

what is a walk back tune? I've never tuned my own bow so this stuff is a little new to me. As for form I think I'm good, I always shot a biscuit and I noticed an occasional wandering arrow which I'm sure was me. But this bow has a drop away rest.

[Lawdwaz]

It ain't the rest!

It could be form as you are so intent on arrow flight with the new rig and tuning. Relax and follow through..........

Become the arrow little grasshopper!!

[2012_taco]

What are the arrow specs?

 

Was this every arrow you shot?? or just one in particular?

Several arrows, also on Saturday there was a cross wind, but i don't think that caused it? Arrow specs? Bow is 65 lbs. gold tip 5575 arrows 28" blazer vanes.

[fasteddie]

what is a walk back tune? I've never tuned my own bow so this stuff is a little new to me. As for form I think I'm good, I always shot a biscuit and I noticed an occasional wandering arrow which I'm sure was me. But this bow has a drop away rest.

 

Walk Back Tuning explained

 

[NFA-ADK]

Ok this is the Easton arrow tuning guild. 

 

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/tuning-guide

 

Walk back tune is just using your 20 yard pin at 20 yards 30, 40,etc.  Using only the 20 yard pin with level in bubble perfect when shot and lined up perfect to see if the arrows group in one direction or not.  Explained in manual. 

 

Simply put some arrows might fly better than others especially if you have more than a few types. 

 

Lawdwaz put it perfect in so far as form!  I shot today horribly then before I left I concentrated on my form and hit 2 bulls at 20 then a decent group at 70.  Practice shooting and your form before you start making any changes.  And use proper arrow shaft and use all the same type all the time. 

 

I shoot a 65 lbs bow and use a 340 ICS Hunter Pro at 8.8 gpi 29" draw they are fast and hard to pull out of 3D.  This is the Arrow chart for spline selection.  400 shaft I have shot do not fly the same as the 340's, I see them bend when shot.  Another thing is make sure your fletching is perfect!  Any rip tear or odd shape will cause uneven arrow flight.   

 

http://beman.com/products/ics-hunter-pro/

 

[2012_taco]

thanks for the link and the help!  Now I just need to get to the club and start shooting and checking out my bow set up. I'll post info asap.

[Hock3y24]

I shoot maxima red 350s out of a 65 lb bow for hunting, during the summer I turn it down to about 58-60 lbs and use my 400 spines, I only have a 27.5 inch draw though. The stiffer arrows defiantly help.

[moog5050]

      Even though you had it tuned, I would also check vane clearance.  Put some lipstick at the end of each vane.  If its making contact, you will be able to tell by checking the vanes after the shot.  I would also suggest paper tuning, but if you are not familiar with it, it may be more than you want to undertake.  Improper nock height will cause arrows to spiral and they still may hit your target, but you will lose speed and energy in the process.  It will also cause you to chase your tail when trying to tune with other methods.  Is the arrow perfectly level (90 degrees from string) when the rest is up?  Even assuming your form is good, there are many reasons why the arrows may spiral.  Go back to your tuner if you need help and ask him to address the issue with you.  Checking vane clearance and walkback tuning are the easiest to do without much tuning experience.

[PWGUNNY]

You did one thing right.  You bought an Elite.  Great bow, enjoy it.

[dbHunterNY]

Several arrows, also on Saturday there was a cross wind, but i don't think that caused it? Arrow specs? Bow is 65 lbs. gold tip 5575 arrows 28" blazer vanes.

You're fine if you have a 100gr point on top of what you said. Plus your bow should have a 6.5" brace height or more. If your point is heavier or your brace height shorter then you're under spined and need a 340 shaft.

Brace height isn't an issue as I missed that you have an elite hunter.

Edited May 13, 2014 by dbHunterNY

[dbHunterNY]

Don't press the string into your face, have a death grip on the bow, or punch the trigger. Basically shot well enough. If you shoot halfway decent your arrows won't corkscrew that bad.

When checking vane clearance make sure they look like they will clear and check the timing of the rest. It should lock bck in the last inch or less of the draw cycle.

[wooly]

I remember reading a similar post on this site not long ago that said you may need to file down the bushings and cams.., followed by a moderate to heavy sand blasting.., and then deep freeze it to -40F to obtain the proper tune,lol

 

[Culvercreek hunt club]

I just picked up a 2013 Elite Hunter and had it set up for me. (included timing, center shot and paper tuning) I was sighting in my new sites and I couldn't help but notice the the arrows were flying with what looked like a tail spin or corkscrewing. They seemed to be consistent and I was able to site in at 20 yds. but I am concerned that the arrow flight with broadheads will be terrible. I know that the arrows are not hitting the drop away rest as the shop checked that out. Any suggestions? 

Any issues with inconsistency with you point of impact? If not I would suggest that it could be your eyes. That bow is pretty fast. Have someone watch over your shoulder at the arrow flight. and then go get the broadheads you are going to use and try them. I can't see worrying about it that much until you know you have a problem. if you are shooting well now and continue to do so with the broadheads, then practice and go hunting.

[2012_taco]

Ok, I checked out the set up on my bow and everything looks right. Nock is 1/8" high, center is right on, cams seemed to be timed. It must be my form as I miss my stabilizer, I always shoot with my pinky on the side of the stabilizer to steady my bow. I have a new stabilizer and will install it tonight. I shot last night @20ydrs. and did the walk back to 30, it seems fine. I even had an extra set of eyes to watch arrows(thanks Lawd) it is fine so now I need to practice some more and try the broadheads. 

[2012_taco]

Update: I paper shot my bow last night and I am getting a high right tear, not huge tear, the fletching tear is about 1" high and right at 10'. (6x) I'm not sure if that tear is enough to concerned and should I be making adjustments? It seems to be shooting fine with field points, I haven't tried broadheads. I will check the fletch clearance to make sure that is not an issue. 

Edited May 15, 2014 by gonehntn

[moog5050]

You said earlier that you have nock 1/8" high so the high tear is to be expected and not necessarily something to worry about.  The right tear could be a concern but also could be form and have nothing to do with the bow tune.  Most right handers will torque bow to the left to some extent creating that right tear.  In the end, you said Lawdaz confirmed arrow flight looked good and  that you were shooting well out to distance.  If the BH and FP are hitting together, I would leave it alone and assume its form related.

 

Checking clearance is always a good idea, but if you were hitting, that tear would be bad for sure.

 

JMHO

[2012_taco]

You said earlier that you have nock 1/8" high so the high tear is to be expected and not necessarily something to worry about.  The right tear could be a concern but also could be form and have nothing to do with the bow tune.  Most right handers will torque bow to the left to some extent creating that right tear.  In the end, you said Lawdaz confirmed arrow flight looked good and  that you were shooting well out to distance.  If the BH and FP are hitting together, I would leave it alone and assume its form related.

 

Checking clearance is always a good idea, but if you were hitting, that tear would be bad for sure.

 

JMHO

Have not shot BH's yet, time will tell. As for form I hope its good, if not I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I shoot with open hand, follow through with release, and practice the same. i know there is a lot more to proper form than that but for now that's as good as it gets.

[moog5050]

Shoot the BHs.  If you can get everything to group decent out to 40 or 50, I wouldn't worry about it.  I learned that even changing how I relax my wrist or place my thumb on the release side can have a big impact on POI.  Find whatever is consistent and most accurate for you. Shooting MOA with a bow isn't that hard even if form isn't perfect and you don't need to shoot even that well to kill deer.  Now if you were shooting Vegas spots, that's a whole different story.  Those Xs make my vision blurry.  lol

 

Again JMO

[dbHunterNY]

I don't know your setup or see you shooting to correct anything or see if you even need to correct anything.  few things i'll comment on.  first your 1" tear high and right is a little too much and can be corrected.  however, I've seen someone shoot a 1"+ nock high and right when I took the bow and shot a perfect bullet hole right before.  0.5" and under is much less to worry about.  most times I've seen a high right tear with a right handed shooter it's due to draw length being slightly too long or are pushing the string into their face to anchor.  from your owner's manual you should be able to figure out what the draw length is set to.  I've always had good luck taking finger tip to finger tip wing span and dividing that number by 2.5.  then taking wing span minus 15, then divided by 2.  then take both those two numbers and average them.  round down to the nearest 1/2" and that's your draw length.  Tim Gillingham, who knows Goldtip arrows and is a great bow shooter, has told me to paper tune at 5, 15, and 30 feet, which has worked pretty well for me.  make sure you're target/paper is chest or shoulder height.

 

another thing, your pinky finger touching the stabilizer seems very wrong and odd.  the edge of the bow grip should run parallel to the life line on your palm.  your knuckles will be at about 45 degrees from horizontal with your wrist somewhat low.  one trick to get your close is grip your bow with your pinky and ring fingers closed up, then let them back out once your grip is set.

 

last, even with an untuned bow field points can be shot and have a point of impact close to the same.  shoot well and you won't see as much corkscrew but shoot with poor form and it'll helicopter to the target.

[2012_taco]

I don't know your setup or see you shooting to correct anything or see if you even need to correct anything.  few things i'll comment on.  first your 1" tear high and right is a little too much and can be corrected.  however, I've seen someone shoot a 1"+ nock high and right when I took the bow and shot a perfect bullet hole right before.  0.5" and under is much less to worry about.  most times I've seen a high right tear with a right handed shooter it's due to draw length being slightly too long or are pushing the string into their face to anchor.  from your owner's manual you should be able to figure out what the draw length is set to.  I've always had good luck taking finger tip to finger tip wing span and dividing that number by 2.5.  then taking wing span minus 15, then divided by 2.  then take both those two numbers and average them.  round down to the nearest 1/2" and that's your draw length.  Tim Gillingham, who knows Goldtip arrows and is a great bow shooter, has told me to paper tune at 5, 15, and 30 feet, which has worked pretty well for me.  make sure you're target/paper is chest or shoulder height.

 

another thing, your pinky finger touching the stabilizer seems very wrong and odd.  the edge of the bow grip should run parallel to the life line on your palm.  your knuckles will be at about 45 degrees from horizontal with your wrist somewhat low.  one trick to get your close is grip your bow with your pinky and ring fingers closed up, then let them back out once your grip is set.

 

last, even with an untuned bow field points can be shot and have a point of impact close to the same.  shoot well and you won't see as much corkscrew but shoot with poor form and it'll helicopter to the target.

I was paper shooting @ 15' with my block on the floor, so I was shooting at a slight downward angle. Do you thing that would cause  the high/right tear? I will try your tip for the grip and see how it feels, I started putting my pinky on the side of the stabilizer as a result of trying to not grip the bow. (never use a wrist sling) I will also pay attention to the string pressure against my face. Thanks for the help.

[fasteddie]

My understanding with paper tuning is you want the arrow at the same height as the bullseye that you are shooting at .

[fasteddie]

This might help