Odd Question

[DirtTime]

I have always had trouble shooting with a release. Last fall I bought a really nice one, and I just couldn't use it. For some reason using a release changes my anchor point and I just can't get good groups. I am so used to using fingers and my anchor is just behind the corner of my mouth that it doesn't feel right not using fingers.

 

I have a 29" draw.

 

So, my question is, if I shorten my draw to 28" does anyone think that would help get the anchor right with a release?

[Uncle Nicky]

Interesting to hear what others might say. I've never used a release either, just never felt comfortable, and I get good patterns using just my fingers.

[WingNut]

When I changed over to a release I had to shorten my draw length.  Depending on what type of release, you could be an inch or more short of full draw. Keep trying!

[growalot]

I had the same trouble and have 3 releases two I just can't use. When I bought my new bow I had the guy look over my form at full draw with out the new release I was buying...BTW one with a BUCKLE strap...and with it he took measurements...and when I got the bow it was all set up with the loop on it...I have not had an issue since. In fact I love using the release now. It took practice feeling confident it would not pull off and teaching my self to keep my finger well away from the trigger until the right shot but drawing back seems easier now and way more consistent. I believe it's a Trueball HD(?)...cost 80+ dollars 4 years ago.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

try adding a kisser button and it may help the mental focus and relearning the anchor because it will give you a physical feel in the corner of your mouth.

[Hock3y24]

Agree with shorter draw and kisser button

[WNYBuckHunter]

Dont mess with your draw length if its correct for you. Change your anchor point.

[moog5050]

Playing with the length of the d-loop will allow you to change your anchor point to one that is more comfortable.  It does not change what is believed to be your correct DL (knock below eye), but it will allow you to play with anchor points without changing the bow DL.  I also agree with a kisser.  You can simply use a piece of d-loop to tie a knot as the kisser.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

One word of warning if you use a split kisser that slides around the string. it has a slit in it to allow the string to pass though. if you have a beard or a long moustache there are some shots that will literally bring tears to your eyes if some of the wishers find a way into that slit just before you shoot. It really gets you attention...lol

[dbHunterNY]

if you're using fingers I assume you've got a longer axle-to-axle bow at least 34"+ to shoot without finger pinch.  once you're that long you can almost always setup a bow with multiple good anchor points to make up your anchor.  if you're draw length is 30+" then I could see maybe having problems with string angle.  I'm a 29" draw for a compound and I shoot both traditional instinctively and compounds with all kinds of releases.  unless you have glasses where the frame effects line of sight, you should be able to keep your draw length the same with the string passing across the corner of your mouth and touching the tip of your nose above.  I don't like actual kisser buttons.  a "soft nock" made of nock point tying thread serves the same purpose, costs pretty much nothing, and maintains more string speed.  also releases it sounds like with some assumptions that maybe you've a buckle strap and adjustable length of the post/barrel?  shorten this up some so that your abductor pollicis or crotch between your index finger and thumb locks right around the corner of your jaw.  then you load up the trigger like you would your fingers and then pull through with shoulders to actually release and following through with motion just as you would shooting with fingers. you'd be sitting pretty if you had that many anchor points in your anchor but you don't need that many.  out of the anchor points I mentioned some are more stabile (locking hand behind jaw) versus others that are more precise for position.  it's important to have a mixture of both types, more so as you have fewer anchor points to compose your anchor.

 

when changing anchor points with fingers versus a release you'll probably need to change your peep position on the string and get it tied back in.  same when you change release types.  for example peep is setup different if I use my TRU Ball Beast II index release versus my Stan handheld with a thumb trigger.

...hope that helps.
 

Edited June 5, 2015 by dbHunterNY

[DirtTime]

OK, so this is kind of split.

I get why changing my DL could be an issue, my old bow had plenty of room to use fingers. New bow I want (  will see once I get to shoot it ) is 31" a2a.

 

Kisser is out! I hate them! Just one more thing you have to think about when drawing and lining up that's not natural to me. That's just me though.

 

The reason I liked fingers is I got used to my finger being where it belonged, and I knew right away if I wasn't anchored right. With a release, as I said, I was all over the place.

 

 

[nyslowhand]

Rob...You never mentioned why you want to change-over to shooting with a release..!?! If you have a good reason for switching, you're in for a lot of work. Bow adjustments, peep & sight pin experimenting, possible arrow length change and a lot of practice. Just to get back to where you were when shooting with your fingers! As Confucius said; If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it!

 

Pretty sure the ideal anchor point for most archers is in the vicinity of the corner of your mouth or cheek bone area, either right or left side. That gives you the optimum line of sight from your dominant eye, thru the peep and to the sight pins. Changing this could create a lot of form issues...?

 

Isn't a correct draw length determined by your shooting style and bow s/u. IE; D-loop or string, release or fingers and all to approx the same anchor point, while putting your DL within the optimal let-off valley?

 

If you're looking into a new bow, better decide which way you want to shoot before getting the bow s/u!! You knew this... lol

 

 

[WingNut]

One more comment. Nearly all bows these have micro adjustments for DL. Which I'm my opinion you will have to change if you switch to release from fingers. If your DL is to short you are adding tension in you bow hand, to long it will be in your shoulder, both cause very different inaccuracies.

Edited June 7, 2015 by WingNut

[DirtTime]

My old bow is busted. String broke, talked about it another thread, just found out will cost around $200 to fix a 20 yr old bow. So I am buying a new one.

All the bows I am looking at in my price range have a short A2A, around 30" to 33". Too short for fingers right ( been told 31 is the shortest I should go???? )? Pinch?

So I may have no choice but to start using a release. I really don't want to but, what we want and what we have to do isn't always even in the same book, much less on the same page sometimes.

So I am asking advise before I start hittin' shops to shoot and see what I like. 

[WNYBuckHunter]

http://www.huntersfriend.com/compound_bow_draw_length_discussion.html

[DirtTime]

That helped WNY, thank you. I never used a peep until the last season, it came with the bow so I gave it a shot. I actually liked it. The one thing that article didn't discuss was A2A and finger pinch. A2A seems different from person to person when asking about length and shooting with fingers. When making calls about who sold what I asked about this one. One shop would say 29" is the cut off, another said 30", another said 36", and yet another said 40". 

[WNYBuckHunter]

Ive never shot fingers, so i know nothing about it. I would think it would be personal preference based on how fat or thin your fingers are, as different angles caused by different ATA lengths would cause different size fingers to get pinched or not. I like a little longer ATA length, as it is a bit more stable. I shoot a 35" ATA.

[nyantler]

Why change to a release if fingers are working for you?

[DirtTime]

My old bow is busted. String broke, talked about it another thread, just found out will cost around $200 to fix a 20 yr old bow. So I am buying a new one.

All the bows I am looking at in my price range have a short A2A, around 30" to 33". Too short for fingers right ( been told 31 is the shortest I should go???? )? Pinch?

So I may have no choice but to start using a release. I really don't want to but, what we want and what we have to do isn't always even in the same book, much less on the same page sometimes.

So I am asking advise before I start hittin' shops to shoot and see what I like. 

 

 

Being told by shop techs a shorter A2A may not leave enough room to shoot with fingers.