1st shot daily pics

[BowmanMike]

thanks moog,the practice is paying off. Going on vacation for two weeks,no chance to practice there. I will be back September 17, then I will set up a tree stand in the front yard and shoot from that for the last two weeks. That should leave me in good shape. Also thinking of marking some trees by my stands for 25 yds,then I'll have a distance to judge by.

Edited August 29, 2016 by BowmanMike

[dbHunterNY]

Worked on new bow again tonight. Forgot pix of 1st shot. It was right in there at 20yards. Setting up HHA dial sight so after that it was a couple groups at 80 yards. Both groups about 2-2.5". I think i moved my anchor slightly for 2nd group. Moved sight and group should've came up but didn't. Too dark to verify anchor with peep. Just had to repeat it and hope for the best. Goes to show how important repeatable anchor is between shooting sessions.

[dbHunterNY]

Hard to see but three arrows in 1st pic

[Core]

2.5" groups at 80 yards? Dang, my personal goal is one inch group per ten right now (five arrow groups). I'm not quite there yet.


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[dbHunterNY]

16 hours ago, Core said:

2.5" groups at 80 yards? Dang, my personal goal is one inch group per ten right now (five arrow groups). I'm not quite there yet.


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I've spent way more time tinkering with this bow to tune and fit it to me than any shop could do for a customer.  I shoot throughout the year.  also it was good day shooting.  it could only go down hill from there.  don't think it's the normal expectation.  even for a better bowhunter.  just practice correctly and work for it.  if you know you're doing something wrong then fix it right away.  results are based on what efforts you put in. following that, you'll get better I promise.

[moog5050]

4 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

I've spent way more time tinkering with this bow to tune and fit it to me than any shop could do for a customer.  I shoot throughout the year.  also it was good day shooting.  it could only go down hill from there.  don't think it's the normal expectation.  even for a better bowhunter.  just practice correctly and work for it.  if you know you're doing something wrong then fix it right away.  results are based on what efforts you put in. following that, you'll get better I promise.

I am a tuning junkie for both my recurve and compound, but I do get worried when I start messing with it a month before season.  I still adjusted my nock point last night on my recurve because my bare shafts were hitting slightly high at 30yds.  I just can't help myself.  lol

[dbHunterNY]

6 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

I am a tuning junkie for both my recurve and compound, but I do get worried when I start messing with it a month before season.  I still adjusted my nock point last night on my recurve because my bare shafts were hitting slightly high at 30yds.  I just can't help myself.  lol

this is a 3D bow but I always set them up so I can hunt with them too.  I have a ritual that I take at least one deer with every bow I've got whether for 3D or not.  I've got a backup bow setup for hunting on standby in case I mess something up.  I shot a bare shaft with fletched arrows and it hit well within a couple inches of the others at 20 yards.  the big targets were already there at the club range from a 3D event they had the day before.  I had a bone head idea of shooting the bare shaft at farther distances but talked myself off the ledge.  can't help the tendencies like you said.   being an engineer the struggle is real.  some days good enough is practically perfect though.

[Core]

32 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

I've spent way more time tinkering with this bow to tune and fit it to me than any shop could do for a customer.  I shoot throughout the year.  also it was good day shooting.  it could only go down hill from there.  don't think it's the normal expectation.  even for a better bowhunter.  just practice correctly and work for it.  if you know you're doing something wrong then fix it right away.  results are based on what efforts you put in. following that, you'll get better I promise.

I need to spend more time at this. I paper tuned a bit last year but haven't done it this year. I also think it's something I need to learn and practice more because like you say a shop won't do it, and it's not something that you need a lot of tools for, just patience.

Now that my phone can film at 240 FPS I actually tried filming my arrows in slow motion to see how they are leaving the bow (in theory one shot every foot of travel). Probably 500 or 1000 fps would be needed to really benefit well from that, though.

What I'd love is for a really accomplished shooter to have a go at my bow. I'd like to know what it's actually capable of with me out of the equation.

[stoneam2006]

I'm on a paper plate at 60 now pretty stoked...I just hate that my rest is so close to the riser but that's where it paper tuned...I'm going to switch to thumb release next season to late now I thinking I have a consistent form problem

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[dbHunterNY]

3 minutes ago, Core said:

I need to spend more time at this. I paper tuned a bit last year but haven't done it this year. I also think it's something I need to learn and practice more because like you say a shop won't do it, and it's not something that you need a lot of tools for, just patience.

Now that my phone can film at 240 FPS I actually tried filming my arrows in slow motion to see how they are leaving the bow (in theory one shot every foot of travel). Probably 500 or 1000 fps would be needed to really benefit well from that, though.

What I'd love is for a really accomplished shooter to have a go at my bow. I'd like to know what it's actually capable of with me out of the equation.

because everyone's anchor and form will be a little different point of impact will change slightly.  know that some bow arrow combos don't paper tune as well as others.  also your arrows even spined correctly do flex.  someone who's one of the best in the world told me when paper tuning to shoot at different distances versus just one.  I think he said something like 5, 10, and 15 feet.  if you get into it, make sure your sight bubble level is set so you're not canting the bow at all.  then do what's called walk-back tuning.  at the end of the day paper tuning isn't the end all.  you've got to inevitably shoot your bow outside, tuning it to shoot/group arrows down range.  before you tinker take photos and write stuff down so you can get it back to where it was if need be.  if things aren't going well, walk away and come back later.

[Adkhunter1590]

Well I should've taken a picture but I was a little frustrated at the moment and forgot too.

I ordered some new carbon express maxima blu rz's and just got them in yesterday. Had a chance to take 3 arrows outside quick at 30 yards and all 3 blew right through my target and into a dirt pile 4 ft behind the target! I have been shooting the same target with my old arrows for over a year with no blow throughs. I can tell I picked up a ton of speed and KE! The grouping was excellent on the only 3 I shot. I guess it's time for a new target....




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[zeus1gdsm]

Arrows on target are fields at 30.

The flier to the right is a broadhead at 40. each time I shoot my broads it seems my shots are right of Center. Should I tune towards the broadhead as the season gets closer? Or focus on aiming with the fields to tighten groups?

I should add this isn't first group this is after about 18 arrows.

[moog5050]

29 minutes ago, zeus1gdsm said:

Arrows on target are fields at 30.

The flier to the right is a broadhead at 40. each time I shoot my broads it seems my shots are right of Center. Should I tune towards the broadhead as the season gets closer? Or focus on aiming with the fields to tighten groups?

I should add this isn't first group this is after about 18 arrows.


 

the field points generally move less than BHs when centershot is off.  You might try nudging that rest to the left and see if it brings the BH closer to the FP.  I have had it go both ways but I start by trying to move the BH towards the FP with the rest.

[Core]

Can you guys honestly say that pricey arrows--say $60/6--group better for you than the cheaper carbons like $30-40 for 6?

I started out last year with $30/6 easton carbons with long fletching and a whisker biscuit. The ones I still have now have wavy fletching, so I bought some $40 carbons with blazer fletching, similarly spined, and frankly I have a hard time saying the new arrows group any better than the tatty older ones. Generally my 5 arrow groups at 50 yards are about 7 inches if I'm totally honest with myself.

[zeus1gdsm]

the field points generally move less than BHs when centershot is off.  You might try nudging that rest to the left and see if it brings the BH closer to the FP.  I have had it go both ways but I start by trying to move the BH towards the FP with the rest.

Thanks. I had the rest installed and paper-lined etc right before last season. I'll give it a shot

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[DirtTime]

35 minutes ago, Core said:

Can you guys honestly say that pricey arrows--say $60/6--group better for you than the cheaper carbons like $30-40 for 6?

I started out last year with $30/6 easton carbons with long fletching and a whisker biscuit. The ones I still have now have wavy fletching, so I bought some $40 carbons with blazer fletching, similarly spined, and frankly I have a hard time saying the new arrows group any better than the tatty older ones. Generally my 5 arrow groups at 50 yards are about 7 inches if I'm totally honest with myself.

It's usually the incerts and nocks on cheaper arrows most worry about. I have 6 CX Wolverine Hunters in 5060 I bought three years ago, 4 in 5570 I bought a few weeks ago,and I got them at Walmart for $6.50 each. I have had no issue getting good groups. The group in the pic was while I was using a bow that was 3" to long on the draw for me. That is the second group after not shooting in three years as well. So....I say they group just fine.

I was way high as I was shooting at the #3 target ( due to the a long draw ). But the group was great and got better.

 

 

Edited August 31, 2016 by ....rob

[Adkhunter1590]

Can you guys honestly say that pricey arrows--say $60/6--group better for you than the cheaper carbons like $30-40 for 6?

I started out last year with $30/6 easton carbons with long fletching and a whisker biscuit. The ones I still have now have wavy fletching, so I bought some $40 carbons with blazer fletching, similarly spined, and frankly I have a hard time saying the new arrows group any better than the tatty older ones. Generally my 5 arrow groups at 50 yards are about 7 inches if I'm totally honest with myself.

Sadly, $60 isn't even considered pricey for arrows anymore....I just bought a half doz maxima blu rz's and they were $85. And that was online....I'm tempted to believe a bow shop might be a few bucks more.

I only took 3 shots with my new arrows and they blew through my target like it was nothing. My old arrows don't even come close to going through. My grouping was tight on my 3 shots but it's the new found speed and KE that I'm most impressed with on these high dollar arrows vs the cheap ones.


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[Jeremy K]

60 is cheap for 6 arrows , you could spend double that for 6 arrows.

[NFA-ADK]

Wow some great advice here!  I have shot arrows that cost 15$ each and 8$ arrows.  Unless you are shooting competition usually you will not notice a difference.  I mark arrows that seem to drift left or right, high and low and see if they keep shooting that way, most of the time it is me and not the arrow. Number your fletching to know which arrows you favor for hunting season. 

 ADKHunter it sounds like you purchased lighter arrows, that will pick your speed up.   

ok some of my first shots. Aug 4th first arrow was bottom left, sorry so blurry.  I found adding an extra fletching causes me to shoot left, lol. 20 yards. 

Aug 7th Field Shoot 36 yards first shot was Black and purple fletching at 8 O'clock.

Aug 14th start of the field shoot championship.  36 Yards Top Right green knock.

Aug 17th 50 yards.  I think the first shot was the top arrow, buddy Hector is the one red knock.

Today 10 Yards bottom right.

For me its all about form and slowing down my shot sequence.  When I shoot every other day my form holds well but overshooting like when I did the field shoots was a bit much for a 65lb bow and 112 shots!  Big difference compared to a 30 round 3D shoot.  Now that I feel my form is back I will switch to 3D targets and get the bow tuned for broadheads.  Keep in mind bad form will cause bad paper tuning so be sure your form is good when testing.

[DirtTime]

Proper form can be dependent on past injuries, but it can be compensated for. I have a bad back, I have tingling in my lower back, both arms, and both legs every day. When it hurts, it frikin hurts! I had to adjust my hips and foot placement. I still shoot well, I just had to make the right body adjustments to get a good upper body form with shoulder and arm alignment to be comfortable.

 

I would never use the $2.50 specials from box stores. But, my Carbon Express Wolverine Hunters have done well. I will be keeping them and having them cut down to fit the new DL.

[dbHunterNY]

Can you guys honestly say that pricey arrows--say $60/6--group better for you than the cheaper carbons like $30-40 for 6?

I started out last year with $30/6 easton carbons with long fletching and a whisker biscuit. The ones I still have now have wavy fletching, so I bought some $40 carbons with blazer fletching, similarly spined, and frankly I have a hard time saying the new arrows group any better than the tatty older ones. Generally my 5 arrow groups at 50 yards are about 7 inches if I'm totally honest with myself.

For hunting just buy the cheaper ones. I've noticed in different ways. Like more expensive ones I can get closer weights. Little easier to tune and shoot Broadheads at distance. At 30 or so yards and in cheap ones squared up on both ends and matched for weight will do more than fine I think.

[Gencountyzeek]

1st shot in a week, stitches still in trigger finger but I can bend it enough to trip the trigger. It's was at 40 yards.

[Core]

Lengthened my draw length another 1/2" today. Can't really say it's related to this, but this is the tightest group I've ever shot at 30 yards (pin sight is off, haven't bothered re-aligning since my peep was adjusted). This is with the "decimator" arrows, which dicks/field and stream had for $30 recently and which are, in fact, $20 for six right now.

I have noticed if I ever get flyers they seem pretty much always to go to the left.

 

 

[Gencountyzeek]

Happy Labor day 40 yard shot. Not sure why I'm getting sideways pics all the sudden...

[Jeremy K]

Trying to stay in first place in league so I had the Pure out tonight at 34 yards,first group.