Tuning question,again...

[Robhuntandfish]

2 hours ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

If I understand it correctly it has a lot to do with your peep position, maybe yours is lower than most, closer to your nock point

Yeah that would make sense , maybe a flatter plane.....  Now I want it to stop raining after work so I can shoot it again. Lol 

[Buckmaster7600]

A 3 blade muzzy and a field point are not going to shoot the same pattern im telling you. 55lb is plenty of pull to get good results. Id bet anything dam near if you sight your field points in and you are getting decent groups throw a rage or similar (I only say rage cause that's what I used so I am familiar with results) on and they will be grouped same as field points. 
 
I went threw the same problem. That's how I figured I knew what BH you were talking about. I had 10 different people tell me 10 different things. I switched from 3 blade muzzy to Rage and never looked back. Good luck. Find a friend that shoots rage or buy a pack give it a try. 

Shooting a mechanical Broadhead to make up for a poorly tuned bow is the absolute worst advice you can give. Mechanicals take more energy to open and penetrate than a cut on contact and if your bow isn’t properly tuned you’re loosing energy by not having your nock directly behind the head.

I can shoot any cut on contact 100gn head with my setup from the biggest 4 blades to the big 2 blades and be very very close to the same poi.


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[Moho81]

4 hours ago, Jeremy K said:

My 3 blade muzzy shot very close to my field points last year . This year with a different set up ,they are way off . 

I had the opposite. Last year the 3 blade Muzzy was way off from the field points now this year with new arrows they are the same as field points. So fascinating wish I understood more of the technical parts of bow hunting. 

[moog5050]

2 hours ago, Robhuntandfish said:

Yeah that would make sense , maybe a flatter plane.....  Now I want it to stop raining after work so I can shoot it again. Lol 

Its all triangles Rob.   lol

[Jeremy K]

22 minutes ago, Moho81 said:

I had the opposite. Last year the 3 blade Muzzy was way off from the field points now this year with new arrows they are the same as field points. So fascinating wish I understood more of the technical parts of bow hunting. 

I'm gonna try the arrows from last year and see how they do.

[BowmanMike]

1 hour ago, Moho81 said:

I had the opposite. Last year the 3 blade Muzzy was way off from the field points now this year with new arrows they are the same as field points. So fascinating wish I understood more of the technical parts of bow hunting. 

 That is how we learn,right? I am very eager to try the 400 grain arrows..I can not believe how well the field points grouped,even at 40yds. But that does me no good at all when the BH are spraying all over. I can't shoot at a deer and hope the arrow lands in the right spot.

Spine must be part of it too. My old arrows were 350 grain as opposed to the current 340 and they shot the BH well,even though the bow was further out of tune.

I think maybe my string is getting a little stretched too,i must have shot over 3000 arrows with it. How often do you guys change it?

[moog5050]

6 minutes ago, BowmanMike said:

 That is how we learn,right? I am very eager to try the 400 grain arrows..I can not believe how well the field points grouped,even at 40yds. But that does me no good at all when the BH are spraying all over. I can't shoot at a deer and hope the arrow lands in the right spot.

Spine must be part of it too. My old arrows were 350 grain as opposed to the current 340 and they shot the BH well,even though the bow was further out of tune.

I think maybe my string is getting a little stretched too,i must have shot over 3000 arrows with it. How often do you guys change it?

3000 may be time for a change.  You usually can tell by sound, visual inspection or measuring BH and ATA.  What weight and DL do you shoot?

[The_Real_TCIII]

Don't forget the X factor, form issues. Every flaw in your shooting is magnified by a fixed blade head. Speed makes it worse. Sometimes no matter what you do to the bow things won't come together perfectly

[Doewhacker]

43 minutes ago, BowmanMike said:

 That is how we learn,right? I am very eager to try the 400 grain arrows..I can not believe how well the field points grouped,even at 40yds. But that does me no good at all when the BH are spraying all over. I can't shoot at a deer and hope the arrow lands in the right spot.

Spine must be part of it too. My old arrows were 350 grain as opposed to the current 340 and they shot the BH well,even though the bow was further out of tune.

I think maybe my string is getting a little stretched too,i must have shot over 3000 arrows with it. How often do you guys change it?

A little tidbit on the arrow numbers, manufacturers are all over the map with what their numbers mean. 

A 340 refers to the spine not the grain or weight of the arrow. Typically you see that shown as grains per inch or gpi. The reason is simple, if you shoot an arrow at 30 inches and I shoot the same one at 25, mine will be lighter. It’s better than the company’s explaining weight at X length etc. 

Some times 400 arrow will have a weaker spine than a 340 but not always. Carbon express goes the opposite direction with their numbers, a 450 is beefier than a 340. Why? Because they can. Lol 

 

Edited September 26, 2018 by Doewhacker

[BowmanMike]

43 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

3000 may be time for a change.  You usually can tell by sound, visual inspection or measuring BH and ATA.  What weight and DL do you shoot?

bow is set for 55# and drawlength is 30"

[BowmanMike]

I shot a nice bow at the shop,maybe a halon? it was set for 68# and felt the same drawing back as mine at 55#.

I will try to get by with mine and six new arrows,then retire it,at least for me,after the season.

[Jeremy K]

My bow is sighted in using a 400 Axis with 100g field points ,i tried shooting a muzzy fixed blade and they were 6 inches low and 2 inches left.  Tonight at the club i shot my 330 hexx with 50g of brass in the business end . My first shot with a field was dead nuts at 20 yards ,my second shot was with a muzzy and it was also dead nuts . I went to 30 and 40 and was withing an inch of the 10 spot at both distances . I'm more then happy and now have an arrow with more weight up front for hunting.

[HuntOrBeHunted]

7 hours ago, Buckmaster7600 said:

 

 

Shooting a mechanical Broadhead to make up for a poorly tuned bow is the absolute worst advice you can give. Mechanicals take more energy to open and penetrate than a cut on contact and if your bow isn’t properly tuned you’re loosing energy by not having your nock directly behind the head.

I can shoot any cut on contact 100gn head with my setup from the biggest 4 blades to the big 2 blades and be very very close to the same poi.


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I agree 100% not to make a excuse for a poorly tuned bow, and that's not what i'm doing.  You guys are missing my point!  It may not be the bow and just be the broadhead. That's what i'm getting at. He said he just had the bow in a shop already.

 

I have a brand new Matthews Traix everything is in sync for 100% and I bet that bow wont shoot a 3 blade muzzy in the same place as a field point. And ill give it a try tomorrow and post pics with honest results rather right or wrong. 

[Steve D]

5 hours ago, moog5050 said:

You usually can tell by sound, visual inspection or measuring BH and ATA.  What weight and DL do you shoot?

Doesn't anyone speak/type English anymore??

[Jeremy K]

11 minutes ago, HuntOrBeHunted said:

I agree 100% not to make a excuse for a poorly tuned bow, and that's not what i'm doing.  You guys are missing my point!  It may not be the bow and just be the broadhead. That's what i'm getting at. He said he just had the bow in a shop already.

 

I have a brand new Matthews Traix everything is in sync for 100% and I bet that bow wont shoot a 3 blade muzzy in the same place as a field point. And ill give it a try tomorrow and post pics with honest results rather right or wrong. 

My current bow ( Elite Pure) and my bow from last year (Elite Synergy) shot a fixed blade muzzy in the same spot as a field point with no adjustments . I think i learned a valuable lesson at the range today about a properly spined arrow and plenty of FOC . The arrows i had good luck with is around 17 percent FOC with the 50g brass insert.

[The_Real_TCIII]

Don’t sleep on helical feathers boys and girls, nothing steers a broadheads better IMO. I just went back to them this year


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[moog5050]

1 hour ago, Steve D said:

Doesn't anyone speak/type English anymore??

Hmmmm.   Most people that are familiar with bows know the acronyms.   But for you:

BH = brace height

ATA = axle to axle

DL = draw length  

 

[Jeremy K]

8 hours ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

Don’t sleep on helical feathers boys and girls, nothing steers a broadheads better IMO. I just went back to them this year


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What degree ? I think mine are 2 degree.

[The_Real_TCIII]

What degree ? I think mine are 2 degree.

2 degree is “offset”, I’m not sure what degree full helical is


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[dbHunterNY]

13 hours ago, Steve D said:

Doesn't anyone speak/type English anymore??

LMFAO.... OMG! IMHO... no.

[dbHunterNY]

2 hours ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

2 degree is “offset”, I’m not sure what degree full helical is


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i use a full max helical (Arizona EZ Fletch Mini)... i want to say it's like 6 degrees. their offset is 4 degrees in offset configuration but they keep the helical angles a secret. it's more than the bohning jig. haven't compared it to various bitz helical jigs.

[The_Real_TCIII]

i use a full max helical (Arizona EZ Fletch Mini)... i want to say it's like 6 degrees. their offset is 4 degrees in offset configuration but they keep the helical angles a secret. it's more than the bohning jig. haven't compared it to various bitz helical jigs.

I use the bohning tower and it puts an extreme helical on Blazers for sure. This year I’m hunting 4” feathers fletched with a Bitz.


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[dbHunterNY]

3 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

I use the bohning tower and it puts an extreme helical on Blazers for sure. This year I’m hunting 4” feathers fletched with a Bitz.


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i definitely agree. i'm not shooting the World Cup with a field or body of water between me and the target/deer where i might be worrying about burning off energy to fast once the range is stretched. i want those shafts to spin like a fired bullet for stability. some of my setups with rest and brace don't let me run long feathers.  i've got plenty of different colored Blazers on hand so that's what i use with the compounds. only when you get away from the turbulent air around the shaft does your vanes or feathers start to work anyway.

[The_Real_TCIII]

i definitely agree. i'm not shooting the World Cup with a field or body of water between me and the target/deer where i might be worrying about burning off energy to fast once the range is stretched. i want those shafts to spin like a fired bullet for stability. some of my setups with rest and brace don't let me run long feathers.  i've got plenty of different colored Blazers on hand so that's what i use with the compounds. only when you get away from the turbulent air around the shaft does your vanes or feathers start to work anyway.

I bought 22 shafts from a friend and they were already fletched with feathers, way to pretty to strip them off so they're coming to the woods.

[moog5050]

I use a bitz with a right helical for feathers.  It doesn't do much in terms of adding twist on the small blazers though.  But I have yet to have a real problem tuning BHs and FPs to impact together even with a straight fletch or offset.