Ground blind tips needed

[JRod 8G8H]

Been a few years since I've hunted out of a ground blind, but we have 40 acres with a couple funnels that still need to be covered.. Would a pop up survive the entire bow and gun season in WNY? Any tips on reinforcement from snow and wind?? What brands have you had success with and which to avoid??

[The_Field_Ager]

A pop-up will not survive a heavy snow fall unless it is under a Hemlock or something. I gave up on 'em after losing 2. Make one from branches and camo tarps instead if you can.

Edited October 1, 2018 by Papist

[Zag]

Yeah it won't hold up to heavy snow. I'd set it up for bow season and make a natural blind to gun hunt in.

[Reb]

I like Rhino blinds the best but even those will buckle under a real heavy snow,happened to mine 2 years ago.  I now pull mine before the end of nov and just use stands the rest of the time.

[Buckmaster7600]

I’ve had double bulls out for 5 years year round. 1 has a small tear from a tree falling on it but other than that they are still standing just a little faded.


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[mlammerhirt]

Buy a cabelas brand blind....their products have a lifetime warranty. Simply return damaged blind and they will issue a new one.
I just did that with an ATV cover.
When I bought it the salesman told me even if it fades i could return it for a new one. So after a few seasons outside It was faded and starting to dry rotted, so i packed it up...took it to the service desk and they swapped it out for a new one.


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[bigpaul]

I have pieces of wood that I leave in the blind when I leave, from top center hub to ground.  Or tie the center top hub to an overhanging branch. 

[TreeGuy]

Rhino with a stake from top to bottom in the middle. Holds up for the unforseen but Def pull them once season is over

[Otto]

Here's a tip I picked up recently when I googled that exact question. Wear black, not camo. It really makes sense since the insides of the blind are black too.
Also, take the time to really brush it in to hide any outline of the roof or edges.


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[nyslowhand]

A piece of 2"x2" PT fence post or even a 2-3" sapling cut to the correct length to support center hub of blind will work. Just have to do some backwoods engineering to come up with a way to ensure support stays on the hub area, depending on your blind. Heard people that use old shower curtain rods, ones with the tensioning spring inside them.

Lot of blinds have the eyelets & ropes about mid-height to stake them down. When I used blinds, tried to tie off at least 2-3 of those ropes to trees or saplings. The stakes they include with blinds aren't the ... best.

Isn't Cabelas now part of BP? Not sure if they still offer lifetime guarantees, do they??

[sits in trees]

I have a couple of those broom handles that you twist to make longer or shorter and just adjust them from the ground to the center hub on the top inside the blind. This helps with snow load 

[Culvercreek hunt club]

They sell adjustable center post supports for the snow load issue. They work pretty well on the ones I have seen. about $30. 

 

The branch just picked up the Barronett Ox 5 blinds. I can't believe the room in them. The outer fabric is quite and no glare. The shootign windows slide to open and adjust. Very good zippers and let me say again, Can't believe the room. Not a light blind at over 30 pounds  but I can easily see 2 people and gear and still plenty of extra room. 

[moog5050]

I agree with the above posters.  We used a double bull blind for all of last season.  Even without extra support in the center, it lasted well all season until a heavy snow at the end of ML.  If we had added a center support, I believe it would not have caved in at all.  And we really brushed it in.  First day sitting it in early season, I had a group of does walk by me at 5 yards.  They work well if properly brushed in and supported and left to sit for a while.  Just remember that you do need room when shooting through the window or you will clip the blind.  Something I forgot on my first shot out of it last year.  Scared me more than the does.  lol  I never did find that arrow but we now have a nice slice on the edge of the window.

[CapDistPatriot]

On 10/6/2018 at 11:59 AM, Otto said:

Here's a tip I picked up recently when I googled that exact question. Wear black, not camo. It really makes sense since the insides of the blind are black too.
Also, take the time to really brush it in to hide any outline of the roof or edges.


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Also make sure to keep back window closed, scent control is crucial in these things.

 

If you are hunting state land, these guys can really enhance the hunt as they are super light, easy to take up and put down.

 

Nice setup BTW good job Otto.

[nyslowhand]

Keeping the back windows closed in mainly to prevent light coming into the blind behind the hunter and deer seeing your profile sitting in the blind. Most blinds are "blackened" inside for this reason. Suppose some scent might also be emitted into area

[Five Seasons]

even under an evergreen the heavy snow will probably fall and cave them in. Usually an easy fix but a pain, especially in the dark. I have a single man chair blind that I used on public land. Easy to pack in and pack out but has it's disadvantages too. I would recommend you brush a blind in good and early though. You're getting close to the rut now and you should make the move quick if you're going to.

[CapDistPatriot]

10 hours ago, nyslowhand said:

Keeping the back windows closed in mainly to prevent light coming into the blind behind the hunter and deer seeing your profile sitting in the blind. Most blinds are "blackened" inside for this reason. Suppose some scent might also be emitted into area

If winds shift, the open windows will bellow out all your scent. If closed, your back is  protected.