dbHunterNY

for bucks my guesses are (1st) 1.5-2.5, (2nd) 1.5, (3rd) 2.5, and (last) 3.5-4.5 years old. better guessing requires closer better images, bucks being completely in the frame, and multiple pictures of same deer. sometimes day photos help too as IR flash washes out any appearance of muscle definition/mass.

nope.... I've always busted balls to the point they get the hint. never had anything too serious though. nobody that's having a night out on the town jacking deer with a spotlight if that's what you mean.

I know the NYS big game leader/biologist (Hurst) has one that's 16.5 years old that looks similar to this one. it's from a radio collared doe he did a study on. here in Albany around the APB preserve there was supposedly a collared doe that was that old. maybe same one I don't know. i think the first one was from years ago with the second being more recent. they're definitely not common and as rare as a more mature buck. without a doubt just as smart too.

I'll PM you chances are there's someone else sending in teeth that yours can go with. It's usually cheaper to send them in as a group (around $15 per deer). We usually send them in around Late Dec to early January. There may be someone closer though. For now look up what to do on their website. don't keep the jawbone or teeth in say a plastic bag. keep them in something that will breathe so they don't rot and can't be used.

I've called them right in.... sometimes they come in too hot though depending on what you're doing. don't call much and remember there's a better chance a doe has heard a call and associated it with a hunter than a buck has. I've had doe on a light run or trotting through. couple shorter contact grunts and they'll at times take a detour your way. I've also had them come into rattling sequences despite I don't use rattling much. Other one I've used early in the season is a series of four fawn distress bawls. as it gets further into stages of the rut though that last one might be ignored by a doe. for whatever reason yearling bucks will come into it. I think due to curiousity is all.

unless you bring a dust buster or vacuum of some sorts it's still there. if it was private property like the neighbors then so be it. baiting is the hunting equivalent of your everyday traffic speeding. that said it's public property where you're directly effecting others therefore you're making it part of their business. It's not like he was out to look for the stuff with the sole intention of getting someone busted.

how are you destroying minerals placed on the ground?? lol

wear method starts loosing accuracy once you've hit 5.5 yrs old but still can get close enough to 8.5 and then it's more of a guess.

looking around and saw this thread.... definitely older than guesses made. can't see them in the photos but at 15+ the front incisors can start to turn into nubs at the jaw bone. can still be pulled and sent in to a lab though. DEC could give guidance to send it in but we also do it. let me know if you need info. Matson's Lab website explains it all though. I'd save that jawbone and bleach it like a euro mount. definitely a trophy.

welcome to the forum

a lot of properties don't have much for regenerative grow. especially with tender young white oak plants being preferred woody browse in the colder months. if you have lots of acorns you can do the float test. if they sink plant them. if they float, then don't. you can direct nut seed oaks too. cultivate an area with sun light so it's bare earth then just toss them out from the big bags they come in. then drag the area to cover.

D'OHHHH!!!

that call that HS makes I think. it makes the sounds of deer eating acorns. if they're that close to hear it then best shut up and not move as much.

yea that's usually the case. this was a collegiate competition though so we had to make the best of trying to make a sled have better fuel economy, cleaner emissions, and quieter for the community its in. some team members moved on to work for Polaris and other companies. I believe our team had the first 4 stroke sled. turbo'd and intercooled a scooter motor and then dropped it into a ProX Polaris race sled chassis. it was equivalent to a 440 fan sled, crazy fuel economy, and with the hood closed you couldn't hear it sitting at idle with a normal conversation going on. among other things the inside of the hood was lined with basically similar material a magic eraser is made out of. hijacking the thread though so i'll leave it at that.

don't have access to that stuff really anymore. so nope. if I did I'd make something similar to an EZ Press bow press for personal use. back in college (engineering) I was on a snowmobile design team that competed in an SAE sponsored international engineering competition. modified sleds to make them cleaner and quieter than production/factory sleds. had a full machine shop across the hallway from our shop. I made brackets, mounts, etc. we made whatever was needed for the sled out of material that was laying around.

nice video. not sure what your standards are but hopefully something you like passes on thru to check it out during daylight hours.

evercalm and hs earth scent wafers are really only two store bought cover scents. rest has been natural stuff in a tote or cedar trunk with the clothes

if you're paying $60 for Rages heads.... taxes included then you're paying too much and someone is ripping you off. Rage heads are just like any other and range from $35-45 in the a store. Hell I'm still using their titanium heads they don't even make anymore and I spent less than that despite the list price was $80. unless you're buying value packs of something at walmart, chances are the prices for heads are comparable.

any broadhead that's been out there works. if told broadhead A, B, or C are bad, they're full of their own BS. If a head doesn't perform it doesn't continue to be produced. Just remember you should have confidence in your chosen head and not worry about it doing what it needs to do. slower rated bows, lighter draw weights, and lighter arrows should steer you to a particular mech head. in that case it should be a lesser cutting diameter, more swept back blade angle when fully opened, and a cut on contact tip. every head should be cleaned and checked before reusing. otherwise don't blame the head when it doesn't work.

sending you a PM.

call their main office for fish and wildlife.... probably get through to someone 518-402-8920 there contact info isn't really out there despite they'll say it is. not that they won't give it to you. just isn't easily out there except for ECOs. I contact region 4 people directly by phone email or whatever.

what region are you hunting? region 1?

good for you.... about a half hour ago so you should be looking I'd think. congrats when you find her.

doesn't seem that bad. tapatalk was acting screwy but no issues here. another forum on the other hand I've basically left because of issues with using it.

if you knew it was a 4 pointer you'd still have an obligation to go get it. nothing you can do about it now and chances are they still are there. deer take noisy people activity differently then predatory hunting them type of activity. be open about why you're upset though so you're both on the same page with antler guidelines versus pushing the wood lot. your buddy made a mistake. tell him it's fine but he has to learn from the experience and have a continued honest effort. if he assumed brow tines then he can't do that. if it was a halfass effort to look for them then he can't be doing that either. you look and you either see them or you don't. before wiseass antler restriction comments come out the point isn't whether it had brow tines or not. it's that you both had a set of guidelines and out of respect and fairness for the other you follow through with them. if he continues to not do his honest part then share the point I made with him. your friends so it shouldn't take anything more than talking about it.