dbHunterNY

I forget but one of the sheep or goat species is quite a bit easier to draw and cheaper. guy around here has done the sheep slam multiple times but he also has money.... and gets more every time I change my oil or wash my car.

feel like I've seen it before but no idea. I've had someone point out nutsedge before but it was wooded, shady, and green. maybe this has just gone to seed.

no don't go stiffer

definitely.... oh I went 4 clicks over and that didn't do so well. 4 clicks back get me back to almost good enough.

behind with getting stuff ready. need to walk to borders and check posted signs and run tape across some trails.

Synergy is a great hunting bow. He should do well with it. No pressure. Love it when I bow throws lazer beams right away. Don't realize it's that good until you've seen that arrow flight. Jeremy's problem seems clearance related. I'd nocking and checking out each arrow for vane clearance. also sometimes nocks can twist a little when shooting and don't stay put forever.

I'm all about reducing my presence to deer, but ozone doesn't sit well with me. props to you though for "I can make that" attitude.

that's a good deer. hope you see him this fall.

moogs giving good advice. with tears like that just move forward to walk back tuning and actually shooting your bow at distances. arrows flex. everyone torques their bow to an extent. if your arrows fly true and group ok at the range then whatever torn paper results doesn't really matter any more.

sometimes it gets difficult. need to be careful around things like the tear ducts around eyes and other places. basically do like others have said cape back by diaphragm and then forward to the head. then cut separate head from neck as high up as comfortable. let the taxidermist cape out the actual head. keep it cold and dry so the hair doesn't slip.

Rob next time let me know. I'm just north of Troy. I can do almost everything. I'll help you out if I can.

idea is when you look up at it the story comes to mind. my first buck was a 6 pt like your other one. I think my dad was happier than I was. I've got an 8 pointer that mark the first buck I saw and then solely hunted. it was the biggest on the farm at the time but I was more happy with the history behind it. dad and brother scouted it before the season.

the ones you previously posted are good though? what's the preferred battery? all my Bushnell and Cuddeback cams are pretty good on batteries now. regardless I've pretty much used Duracell Quantum and then late season or real cold use Energizer Ultimate Lithium. About out now but was using some up I picked up on super clearance from an Officemax closing up shop.

wing span isn't the same proportion to height for everyone. you're drawing your bow with your arms so I always start with wingspan. especially with today's shorter axle-to-axle bows, touching your nose might not be possible. if you try to setup to do it without tipping your head down the string will be back on your cheek versus at the corner of your mouth. you can have multiple other anchor points though without touching to the tip of your nose. always have a slight relaxing bend at the elbow. never lock your elbow/arm outward. 1/4" will probably be too little once you get an arm guard or sock and have your insulated jacket sleeve. also you're changing your anchor when you push the bow further out like that. hand position is different for everyone. the edge of the grip should run right down your lifeline though with the grip pushing into the meat at the base of your thumb. wrist will then be pushed back a bit, locking it into place while basically being completely relaxed. keep your hand relaxed through the shot, otherwise you'll start to push out with your heal or torque the bow. left flyers might be you pushing more than pulling on the bow because your bow arm is overly extended. those are my thoughts without actually being there to see things.

being that long of a draw you're border line between a .340 and .400 ish spine. carbon express doesn't make a 200 model arrow I think you've got PSE/Carbon Force STL Hunter arrows. if that's the case your spine would be .424 I believe. based on what you said you'd be a .400 or so spined arrow as long as it was tuned well enough and your arrow length is less than 29.5". otherwise your arrows are too weak and you should bump up to an arrow around a .340" spine. at 50lbs I'd shoot for a finished arrow weight that's 325 grains or preferably more (6.5 grains/lb of draw weight). the weight will help you with penetration shooting the lower poundage draw weight.

haha.... broadheads are expensive. even the cheaper ones to outfit a half dozen arrows. I've used some Rage heads just fine multiple times without doing anything but cleaning it out. sometimes I've had to replace the blades and on fewer occasions the whole head. they make replacement blades for them just like any other broadhead for the same reason. if it still spins true and isn't bent, why buy the whole head again?

for a hunting bow that extra inch won't make a much of a difference as long as spine for the setup is correct. you're only gaining a few feet per second which isn't much at hunting distances. so those that need the speed are full of crap. those that say they like the arrow out their for safety and to keep all your fingers are full of crap. fingers shouldn't and really can't be anywhere near the arrow path. no reason to change them but if it's making you lose sleep at night or at least bothering your brain then that's a legit reason. have enough to worry about when shooting at something, so you shouldn't have to worry about your equipment too.

as long as your bow arm is still bent and your other arm to your elbow is inline with the arrow then you're probably good. slightly too long and you'll have big movement of the floating pin on target. too short and you'll have less movement but the floating will be much faster. your wing span with held out arms not overly stretching divided by 2.5 usually works pretty well. always round down to the nearest half inch though.

I also use it for tree strap when using the climber tree stand. way better and adjustable than the seat belt type.

another thing... with an arrow I can clip guts a little if it's say hard quartering away. prefer not to open stomach at all. ....with a gun though never, ever. i'll let it walk if I think it'll be close to the guts, even if it means it'll still get vitals. it's just no good. lol

with a gun I've squared up on the front shoulders to get vitals and take out bone in both front legs so they basically don't take a step. since I've found it destroys waaayyyyy too much meat. i don't care if it's not the straps or loins. it equates to a lot of casseroles, burgers, and other ground prepped food. I've hit them in the neck on rare occasion that's worked fine but at pretty close range with a 30-06. same thing lose a lot of meat, also it's not vitals. sure it works but no guarantee like vitals. double lungs and if I can take out the heart then even better because it won't go far. I do eat and very much like heart and always check to see if I hit it or if it can go in a plastic bag for dinner that night or the next. with bow it's lungs and/or heart. quartering away or broadside only. aim bottom 1/3 or sometimes lower depending on how far the shot is and what the deer is doing. they can drop a long ways if they're 30+ yards out.

welcome to the dark side. once in the treestand you'll feel like your range is extended like crazy. I went the other way and felt like I was practically on top of the deer to justify taking a shot.

Don't need to have a bow vise and stuff. Hang a weight with a relatively thin bow hoist rope. Plenty of surrounding light. Draw and then carefully back your face off the string. Keep your bow string at full draw in line with your hanging rope. Point bow toward ceiling and down toward floor. Bubble level on your sight shouldn't drift from center.

For hunting just buy the cheaper ones. I've noticed in different ways. Like more expensive ones I can get closer weights. Little easier to tune and shoot Broadheads at distance. At 30 or so yards and in cheap ones squared up on both ends and matched for weight will do more than fine I think.

biscuit also holds the arrows in place better than the hostage.