dbHunterNY

nice i was originally going to get that for a 9mm but the shop didn't have model19 gen4's in stock at the time. i ended up spending more on impulse and got something else.

i got the email at 4:39pm. You're quick!! Been checking their site and checked just last night and it wasn't posted yet.

i used to use more seasoned breadcrumbs but then it does come out a little meat loaf-ish. cut down on the breadcrumbs and put in just enough to help bind with the egg. also i now usually use unseasoned bread crumbs. i don't add any fat from another animal to it. my wife prefers straight up taste of venison. because they're so lean i usually press dimples into the raw formed patties when i first put them on. keeps them from shrinking up even when just cooking to medium to medium well.

I'm all for promoting job retention for the US.

I've got a Browning rifle made in Miroku, Japan. it was a little more expensive. understandable though since it's a stainless barrel and action walnut stock, Nikon Prostaff scope came with the package, and it's a Browning.

sharp putts to pull them out of strut have burned me. i'll do more of a locating or contact cluck or even get them to gobble which at times pulls them half way out of strut for a second when they bring their head back in, which is enough. only if they're really close do I shot them in full strut and they have to be pretty much facing me.

definitely a great mount as other said.

to sight in use a level and draw horizontal line for sight in up/down and then vertical line for sighting in Left/right. when worrying about one don't worry so much about the other.

yes and dropping arm at the shot because you're not focused on staying on target until the arrow hits. for bow related items vane clearance or nock and rest height/position will do that. if you're only at say 20 yards it could be a little of everything. maybe have someone stand behind and over your shoulder to watch your arrow flight to see if the nock end is acting like a porpoise, kicking up or down on the way to the target. may need to shoot a little farther than 20 yards depending on how fast your bow is. ....make sure they know to keep their face away from your elbow so they don't get it in the face.

we always got them through 4-H and Cornell Cooperative Extension.

I've got to take inventory on what I've even got for shells. I know I've got basic lead turkey loads but not much of the fancier stuff.

I've got the EZ fletch that does them all at once so I can actually close everything up and it positions it all just right if you're careful enough. something like a bitz jig is a pain and better off stripping them all. not a big deal if you're already setup to do the work. I've usually got one or two in my hip quiver with messed up vanes. they get moved and others shot. I number mine arrows and have noticed a difference in point of impact from the vanes. I shoot a heavy helical though too versus more straight fletched vanes. even for 3D. if a vane is ripped or has a hole I hear it. effects aren't too bad within bowhunter class range of 35 yards but out to 50 plus it's very noticeable. still at bowhunter class ranges if you're counting x's or 12's you pay attention to those little imperfections. something like a hunting situation has the same effect. your average joe that dusts off his bow right before the season might not be able to tell or care.

my Browning Abolt stainless stalker is nice and light enough. I more like the short throw bolt for deep woods hunting. follow ups are quicker for a bolt. helped me a few times. shoot until they fall. don't want to hike anymore and at times it's easy to get turned around blood trailing.

biggest cut mechanical you can find. guillotine style or something like Rage Xtreme. penetration isn't an issue but sometimes if the arrow is still in it max shock and shaft itself keeps the bird on the ground and not far from where you hit it. wing butt, butt hole, or base of the beard if you're not using the guillotine style. no long shots.

I know some people cut them but you're best having all arrows exactly the same. I agree.

let it set in acetone if they're aluminum arrows. if they're carbon then there's no reason I can think of to glue the nock. nocks are cheap arrows aren't. don't just drop a carbon arrow in acetone and let it sit there for a while.

awesome. the whole game bird, flight pen thing is kind of interesting. definitely agree with others about wild versus pen raised. males we raised around that certain time of year would strut around and do so right on our atv racks. no reason to fear anything. a lot of predator food.

most of the time you're shooting fish like carp or something in shallow water or on the surface around here. a bow with max poundage between 40-50lbs is good then turn it right down to 30-40 depending on the limbs. 50 lbs will often get you buried in the muddy bottom or into cover and pulling your arrow out isn't easy. even ocean sand bar bowfishing doesn't need that much poundage. if you're after gators some where else then there's other options. for accessories you're probably best to buy a starter kit. finger savers on the string are nice. keep things waxed and put it in places to prevent ingress of water. aim low not where you see the fish. the wife and I have really wanted to get into bowfishing. hard making time and therefore justify getting the gear. others you go with will usually switch off holding the light versus a bow. most I know of find older cheap light hunting bows. I probably will eventually get a special purpose bowfishing compound bow with a cam to allow for drawing to any length on the fly just like a light draw trad bow.

rob when picking up additional choke tubes I highly recommend going for aftermarket tubes versus OEM flush tubes. PureGold makes great tubes special purpose tubes. if you want just generic choke tubes for shooting anything Carlson makes black sporting clays tubes that are extended to pattern better with a lot of different constrictions. i have some and they work well. here's a link.... http://www.choketube.com/choke-tube-product-details.php?Benelli-Mobil-Choke-Tubes&mf=3

I'm calling you out... on behalf of today's society.... those are definitely flying twinkies with doggy faces and not flying corn dogs. my agenda is now full filled.

depends on the time of the year but normally with our later season your jake with feeding or submissive hen work well maybe 3 feet from each other. later season it's best to call sparingly and use decoys mostly to pull them in by sight. earlier in May setup so the bird is coming over a knoll blind to the decoys and so they walk somewhat past you and off to the side to get to them. you don't want to be setup with the decoy directly in line of sight between you and the bird if you can help it. easy to get spotted that way. if you're 40 yards and in then your decoys should be pretty close maybe 15 yards. if there out further and you only have about 40 yard shots for woods density then they could come in to within 10 yards of the decoy and you still won't have a shot. a jake might bring them in face to face but just a hen they'll keep a little distance and expect her to follow or expect her to move and they'll follow. don't think your decoy is full strut but a real dried fan on a full strut decoy works awesome to bring them in.

a lot of your interchangeable chokes that come with the guns will have something like "no steel shot" etched on anything more restricted than medium with anything medium or more open being fair game.

i think a crossbow would get more hunters into the woods. more deer would die that would most likely be antlerless. knowing when to draw is a huge part of hunting with a vertical bow. it depends on what crossbow and what vertical bow you're talking about. only when comparing low end crossbows to faster vertical compounds do you give the performance advantage to the vertical bow. many high end xbows can shoot a bolt over 370 grains at speeds of over 360 fps, faster than IBO speeds for practically all compounds made to date. only within extreme ranges does the vertical bow out shine the xbow for potential/kenetic energy available. those distances aren't really practical or applicable to hunting. no need for debating the two. crossbows are definitely a better weapon for the task of killing deer at almost all practical hunting ranges. that said I don't think even guns would fix problem areas to meet DEC's desires. Access is still in the favor of deer in many of the areas in question. if the deer's standing in someone's suburban backyard or in a wood lot of a golf course where you don't permission there's nothing any weapon or tag allowance will do for you.

great pictures. maybe some day they'll show up in a magazine, so others can appreciate your pashion.

had a guy take one in a wood lot within sight of my stand. dressed out around 250lbs I think. biggest bear taken was supposedly 520. that's a big bear! have held zoo cubs before but have yet to see one in the wild in NY.