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How do you determine your draw length?


AaronBlaine
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Yes measure your wing span and divide by 2.5, mine is 28.8" round up im a 29" draw

What do you consider wingspan? Tip of middle finger to tip of middle finger? I've never tried this method. I've always had the shop measure my draw and they say I'm a 30 but I have always though my draw length should be a bit longer. They probably just told me I was a 30 because that's as long of a draw my bow came in. I have the wingspan of a Sasquatch!!

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I'm not a real big fan of the rule-of-thumb kinds of methods (wingspan, etc.). Draw length really should be measured exactly the way you shoot, anchor, and with the exact posture (shooting stance) that you have when under the pressure of your bow at full draw. Also, if you use a release, use that in your measuring process. And don't forget installing a "D-loop" if you intend to use one. Each one of these things effect your draw length. Also it is good to use an arrow and aim at a reliable backstop just in case of an accidental triggering of the release. To do the job right, it will require an extra person be there for measuring. The process is usually recommended to be done at a pro-shop, but as you can see it really is not rocket science, and can be done by anyone with a properly equipped bow at home.

 

The AMO definition of "Draw Length" is as follows:

The distance from the string at full draw to the pressure point on the handle plus 1-3/4".

 

This is the way the manufacturer specifies his bow's draw length and it is the distance used when ordering or buying a bow.

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I've had a shop measure wrong, twice. Sometimes its better to know how to measure yourself and have a buddy verify.

X2 unless you have a really good bow shop that you trust I would double check yourself... I shot 29" and 30" bows for years and was told they fit me...in reality I shoot 27.5"...lol

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Another method that is very close as well is: 

 

Stand 90 degrees to a wall. Place your closed fist against the wall. Turn your head toward the wall and look at your fist. Measure from the wall above your fist to the corner of your mouth.  

 

I just measured mine this way at 28 1/4 and my draw length is 28"

 

I just measure my wingspan at 70.5 and divided by 2.5 = 28.2

 

Certainly between the wingspan divided by 2.5 and the method I described it should by accurate.

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I measured myself and I come out at 28".  The pro shop told me I was 27.5" but he really set me up as 27".  I would still hit my forearm every once in a while.  I had it adjusted down to 26" and I never hit arm again plus my groupings got better.

 

The lesson I got out of all this?  Just shoot the damn bow and practice.  You'll get the most accurate answer that way.  Every one is unique.  There will never be a magical formula that applies to each and every one of us every time.

Edited by Elmo
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Here is the no BS method. As Doc said the bow must be set up exactly the way you are going to use it.Buy an arrow longer then you herard your draw length is,put in place the way you are going to shoot it,draw the bow back to your anchor point,now have someone put a mark on the arrow lined up with the front of the bow at the arrow rest. Inside of the knock to that mark is IT. Now add 1" to that for broadheads. 

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Here is the no BS method. As Doc said the bow must be set up exactly the way you are going to use it.Buy an arrow longer then you herard your draw length is,put in place the way you are going to shoot it,draw the bow back to your anchor point,now have someone put a mark on the arrow lined up with the front of the bow at the arrow rest. Inside of the knock to that mark is IT. Now add 1" to that for broadheads.

Great way to get arrow length.. doesn't do much for draw length though.

Getting the correct draw length for for you and your shooting style is one of the most important things effecting your accuracy and comfort shooting a bow..odd anchor points, peep heights,etc... are quite commonly due to having the wrong draw length to begin with, and addapting to it..

Like everything else though.. not much is wrtten in stone..more than one way to skin a cat...lol

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I read somewhere that the most common shooting problem is incorrect draw length. Archers then try to make their form fit the bogus draw length. Apparently it is not a feature to ignore because it can severely screw up your form and shooting habits. That is one good reason to use a competent archery pro that will ensure that you have the correct stance, grip, repeatable anchor, and proper draw and holding muscle structure and use, when measuring you up for draw length for an intended bow purchase. It is one of the more important specs on a bow, and needs to be done right. You don't need to be all crunched up trying to accommodate a draw length that is too short and you don't need to be stretching your arms out in an un-natural fashion to reach the proper position in the valley. Yes it is true that there are pros out there that should never be trusted with handling other people's equipment or advising them on proper shooting form. I too have some nightmare stories of having my equipment screwed up by guys pretending to actually know what they are talking about. All you can do is to talk to others who shoot well and have had a specific pro as their go-to guy when equipment purchases are required. Lacking any other kind of authoritative reliable credentials, that's all you can do.

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Gee maby for 50 + years I have been doing it wrong.As far as draw length :fie: .Years ago a very well respected Pro. in an archery shop had me pull back a few bows, Long Bow, Recurve Bow and a compound bow. To see how much weight I could pull back and hold and anchor at my lips. He said I could do 55 pounds But recommended 50 pounds.Then we took all of the type of bows ( he had an idea what My Draw length was). And drew each bow with an extra long arrow to my anchor point. He marked the arrow with a different color marker for each bow.They All came within an 1/8" of each other.The length came out to be 28". Which he said is my draw length.  :bye: 

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You know, OMG, I have seen arrow length done that way but never draw length. And to be honest I've never checked using using your method. Maybe I've been overlooking anothe legitimate way...lol

thumbs up(not smart enough to use the goofy characters with my phone,ha)

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your release makes no difference in your draw? I shot  a wrist strap trigger release at 29" draw, went to a finger thumb release still a 29" draw. the string still needs to set where its suppose to no matter the release used, a release doesn't make your draw any shorter or any longer .if your using a wrist strap release it should be adjustable just for your finger length, don't believe me get 3-4 different releases together and shoot em, your draw is STILL the same

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Gee maby for 50 + years I have been doing it wrong.As far as draw length :fie: .Years ago a very well respected Pro. in an archery shop had me pull back a few bows, Long Bow, Recurve Bow and a compound bow. To see how much weight I could pull back and hold and anchor at my lips. He said I could do 55 pounds But recommended 50 pounds.Then we took all of the type of bows ( he had an idea what My Draw length was). And drew each bow with an extra long arrow to my anchor point. He marked the arrow with a different color marker for each bow.They All came within an 1/8" of each other.The length came out to be 28". Which he said is my draw length.  :bye:

That sounds more like the process for determining arrow length, but the question was about determining the draw length of the bow which is defined as the distance from the string at full draw to the pressure point of the bow handle +1-3/4".

 

Regarding the draw weight comments, generally you will be able to draw and hold much more with the compound. Yes at some point through the draw cycle you do have to pull the max weight, but the lesser holding weight of the compound is the weight where you have to be able to exert control and steadiness. And the compound has the advantage there which allows you to use a much heavier bow. For example, I shot a 70# compound bow for quite a few years and it wasn't really all that much of a challenge. The highest I was ever able to consistently shoot my recurves was at 50 pounds. Beyond that I was a shaking mess. That's a 20 pound differential. 

 

Also I have found that the actual arrow length and draw length is generally shorter on the recurves and longbows than it is on the compound. The final holding weight on the traditional equipment is the max draw weight and generally causes more physical compression of joints and posture. Kind of a fun thing to do when you have not shot a recurve (or longbow) for a few years is to take one of the arrows that you use on your compound and draw it back with a recurve. You'll be surprised how many inches of that arrow are sticking out in front of the recurve when you have reached full draw.

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your release makes no difference in your draw? I shot  a wrist strap trigger release at 29" draw, went to a finger thumb release still a 29" draw. the string still needs to set where its suppose to no matter the release used, a release doesn't make your draw any shorter or any longer .if your using a wrist strap release it should be adjustable just for your finger length, don't believe me get 3-4 different releases together and shoot em, your draw is STILL the same

Anything that extends or contracts the distance from your anchor to the nock of your arrow effects your draw length. It might be very slight to the point where you automatically compensate for it in your anchor or form, but it does (has to) change the draw length when all other things remain the same.

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