The Archery Gods are after Me!

[jesse.james]

The archery gods are really trying to discourage me from hunting this year. Maybe im going to have some catastrophic stand/safety harness failure and they are trying to keep me out of the woods. Lets see. First I paper tuning my monster in the garage and smash the cam into the ceiling. No hopes of getting it fixed in time I purchase a 2013 Elite Hunter. Cant get it dialed in to save my life. Huge paper tear right that I cant get out. Bareshafts hitting 9 inches left of the fletched arrows at 20yrds at 10 yards they are entering the target at an angle. I have shims on the way along with a bow press. Today I decide to go back out and see if I cant fix my tuning issue while waiting on my press and shim kit. I use foot powder to test my FOBs for clearance with my QAD Ultra HDX rest. Verify no contact. Start working on bare shaft tuning and it happens. First time Ive ever done it. Accidental release of my arrow while drawing it back. Launcher stays up because I was only half way through my draw. FOB crashes into the launcher and then I hear the rush of leaves as my arrow enters the woods 30 yards behind my target. No hope of recovering that arrow (17 bucks down the drain). I go to knock another arrow. Im missing half of my TL1 Launcher. Gotta shoot an email to QAD to see if I can order another one. Ugh what next. Seriously. Im gonna end up having to say screw tuning my bow and just make sure my bhs hit what Im aiming for and call it a day at this point.

[Lawdwaz]

Dude...............................................Maybe hunt some squirrels this fall, seriously.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[crappyice]

Bad things come in threes....so you should be good for the next three years or so! Hang in

[shawnhu]

Not to add salt to injury, but trigger finger behind the release aid is always a good idea.

As for the paper tuning, start close and work your way out. If you need more details, you can PM me. Seems like you may be tuning too far.

[jesse.james]

Not to add salt to injury, but trigger finger behind the release aid is always a good idea.

As for the paper tuning, start close and work your way out. If you need more details, you can PM me. Seems like you may be tuning too far.

usually I do have it behind the trigger. Was focusing on my grip to make 100% sure I wasnt torquing the grip. Just trying to eliminate everything I can.

[shawnhu]

usually I do have it behind the trigger. Was focusing on my grip to make 100% sure I wasnt torquing the grip. Just trying to eliminate everything I can.

Then you should definitely start at 3-5 yards on the paper and go from there. It'll be the opposite direction at 10-15 yards.

[132 eight pointer]

Reminds me of the time my dear departed uncle drew my cousin's bow back and hit the release trigger somehow sending the arrow through the garage window. Fortunately there was just an overgrown field for a very long way behind the garage.

[Lawdwaz]

From a sticky on this site...........

 

http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf

 

Maybe that'll help get you in the tree stand hunting deer 10/1/2013 and NOT hunting squirrels. Grins...

[Nomad]

I tried to read that thing you posted there, Lawdwaz, but I did not understand much of it...

I never knew it was so complicated .

Here is my method , worked well 25 plus years. Late Aug. take bow off wall shoot 2 to 3 times a week till season, kill deer hang back on wall.

Ok years ago I shoot a lot. But not with my "new bow" I picked up 7 years ago, that things a snap.

Every few years bring to bow shop have them" check it out" .

Edited September 6, 2013 by Larry302

[jesse.james]

Yeah I have been in contact with the author on another site. I really think I'm going to have to shim the cams

[G-Man]

For what you had to pay for bow I'd take it back to shop and get another one...

[fasteddie]

Jesse --- Good luck getting the bow fixed and ready for this season !

[SteveB]

The shop you bought it at didn't help with the setup?

[jesse.james]

He set it up. When he saw the tear in the paper he said oh your overspined. I didnt want to argue with him because he does have a ton more experience than I do but he was wrong. No real point in taking it back there because will just insist its the arrow.

[jesse.james]

I tried to read that thing you posted there, Lawdwaz, but I did not understand much of it...

I never knew it was so complicated .

Here is my method , worked well 25 plus years. Late Aug. take bow off wall shoot 2 to 3 times a week till season, kill deer hang back on wall.

Ok years ago I shoot a lot. But not with my "new bow" I picked up 7 years ago, that things a snap.

Every few years bring to bow shop have them" check it out" .

it can be complicated if you are looking to fine tune the bow to get as much potential out of it as I can. For some of us archery and bow hunting is a passion. We shoot all year oong. We want the best shooting possible. Can I currently shoot 2-3 inch groups at 20 yards. Sure can. But I know im losing potential energy when my arrow leaves my string because its not shooting properly. Same idea as gear heads with their cars. Sure you can drive a car off the lot and get from point a to point b. Others want more out of their cars. Also I feel that shooting all the time gives me that extra edge. I owe it to tbe game im hunting to dispatch them as quickly and eth8cally as possible. Itz so easy to make a bad shot. Why would I want to up that potential with a bow thats not properly tuned.

[Doewhacker]

I would skip to Braod Head tuning or walk back tuning my self.

[jesse.james]

I would skip to Braod Head tuning or walk back tuning my self.

broadhead tuning will be next to impossible with the poor arrow flight. Ill give it a shot once I get my tl1 launcher.

[moog5050]

Elites are notorious for RH tears.  I would skip the paper tune and try french tuning or walk back tuning for CS.  Then BH tune.  Can you check cam timing?  If that's off, you will never get it to tune correctly.  If you don't trust your shop, you need a press and DB.  Also, if the shop is convinced your are overspined, shoot some lighter spine at the shop and see what happens (and their response).  Good luck. 

[Doc]

I've had days like that, but it sounds like you have settled into a regular lifestyle of bad luck. You have my condolences.

[jesse.james]

I've had days like that, but it sounds like you have settled into a regular lifestyle of bad luck. You have my condolences.

 

And thats just august..ive had a string of bad luck going back several months.

[Arrow Flinger]

This is right off the Easton tuning guide. If you already tried all these fixes, I would bring the bow back where you got it and tell them either fix it or give you your money back. BTW...where did you buy it?

This tear indicates a stiff arrow reaction for

right-handed archers using finger release

(RF, CF). Left-handed finger release

archers will have an opposite pattern. This

is an uncommon tear for right-handed

compound archers using a mechanical

release (CR). However, it can occur and

generally indicates that the arrow rest position is too far to

the right or that there is possible vane contact on the inside

of the launcher rest.

[jesse.james]

Kleins.  I know the arrow isnt overspined as Ive run in through the software and other spine charts.  I have a 175grns up front on a .300 spine shooting an ibo 326 fps bow 72# with 30in draw.  Im dead center on point.  Im just going to do the work myself and learn.  Im leaning to needing to shim my bow.  I talked to the elite tech and he doesnt feel that on a brand new 2013 hunter I should need to shim. He advised move center shot back to factory and go from there. factory is between 7/8ths and 13/16s but he suggested 13/16.  still getting a wicked tear.  Got my shims already they overnighted them.  Waiting on my press should be here by tuesday. If shimming doesnt work ill be taking it back. 

[Arrow Flinger]

It don't look like you're overspined.I'm in the process of re-tuning my bow too as I just had to put new strings on it. I have a press you can use if you cant wait for yours. I live in Baldwinsville by Beaver Lake.

[NFA-ADK]

If the place you purchased the bow at can not help, I would find another dealer.  A good bow shop that knows what they are doing is a priceless thing to have.  In a bind or a emergency many times they will get you functioning and on target.  After spending 700$ and up on a bow they should be able to get it working properly or refund your money or replace...  While we can all speculate on what is wrong, in actuality you probably need help with something you are overlooking or unfamiliar with.  The new bows are extremely sophisticated and require more than just basic knowledge at times to fix.   

 

When I complained to C & B Archery about my bow and the fact that they did not paper tune it they said it was set to factory specs...

 

I had bad form and knew it but did a paper test and ripped to the RS.  When they did a shot it was perfect...  After getting my form back in shape I was hitting the X out to 30 +.   The more I get my form good the better I shoot, da, sorry just thinking out loud.  My point, just make sure it is NOT your form.  Try reducing the poundage and see if anything changes, try a different grip with hand and or new grip on bow?  Just some ideas, again hope you get this fixed and keep us posted!!!  Shimming sounds scary, be cautious.  

 

I don't paper tune any more, I just make sure the arrow hits the same line from 5 - 70 yards with the bubble level and peep perfect!!!  I don't hit the X all the time cough but if the arrow hits the spot my sight was on when I released then that's my aim, not the bow... Wish I could blame the bow but usually my hardest issue is getting the pin exactly where I want it THEN releasing...

 

Did this at about 63 yards 2 days ago.  One of my better groups...  Testing new string out... 

I don't usually shoot paper but I help set this target up on work day...  And I like long shots.

 

 

[PooperScooper]

If this happened to me I'd humor them and try different arrow. I'm very much a newbie at this, and don't pretend to know it all. But I also got an Elite Hunter 2013 this year. The shop set me up and turned it. After consistently shooting high and left I went to the indoor range and French tuned it. Absolutely spot on now. I can't imagine paying what I did for this bow and having to go through what you are going through with thoughts of shimming. Is it possible you've gone so far done this road that you've made yourself too stubborn to back up and try another simpler route? I say this hopping you'll understand that I'm trying to be helpful. I've found myself in situations like this because I've over complicated a situation out of pure frustration. And I never seem to realize it until someone else points it out to me. Regardless, best of luck with the bow.