Taking the plunge

[cdmckane]

Ok, so I've taken deer with shotgun, rifle, pistol, and muzzleloader.  Wife gave me the go-ahead to buy a bow with our taxes and complete the cycle.  I've never shot a bow before, but there was a time that I'd never shot a gun before too, so I know I can do it if I put in the time to do it right.

 

I'm going to a couple bow shops this week to see if they have any used bows at decent prices.  What are some things to look for and to stay away from?

[ants]

Don't think  that you have to only go used. You can get a good, new set up for around 4-500.  Bear, Diamond and others offer bows set up and ready to go for around that price range. 

[Lawdwaz]

All I'll say is GREAT MOVE!!

 

(and buy her a nice bouquet of roses)

[thphm]

A Bow is like a Shoe it has to be the right fit for You.A good bow shop should do this for you before you BUY one.

[Woodjr55]

Dicks has bear encounter and the legion<- I think it's call for 100 off ready to shoot the encounter is 300 and the higher end is 400. I got a used now this year and I think it's kinda a crap shoot. I got my 06 bear element for 200 ready to shoot but it already needs new cables and string

[Arrow Flinger]

Dicks has bear encounter and the legion<- I think it's call for 100 off ready to shoot the encounter is 300 and the higher end is 400. I got a used now this year and I think it's kinda a crap shoot. I got my 06 bear element for 200 ready to shoot but it already needs new cables and string

7 years is a really good amount of time to get out of strings and cables. I replace mine every 2-3 years and guys who shoot a ton replace them every year.

[stoneam2006]

I bought my parker ultra light 31 last year on eBay in like new condition with quive rest and sights for 200$+50$ for shipping best purchase I've ever made

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[Woodjr55]

7 years is a really good amount of time to get out of strings and cables. I replace mine every 2-3 years and guys who shoot a ton replace them every year.

yea I know that now but being new to bow hunting and archery in general was kinda bummed that I already need new stuff

[Doc]

Congratulations on your choice to join the bowhunting community. Understand that you are signing up for an intense training session consisting of some rigorous practice and learning. That's not a problem because most likely, you will find yourself fascinated with the bow and arrow and will likely become a bit fanatic about shooting.

 

My first suggestion would be to find a reputable, successful, bow shop rather than simply looking for bargains at the big box outdoor stores or internet deals. Understand that employees at the archery departments may likely be better at job interviews than actual knowledge. It's not that they are all dummies, but the odds of finding unqualified archery pros at those general all-purpose outdoor stores  is extremely high. Also, there are some very good buys on the internet, but what you need is hands on guidance and real assistance. It may feel like you are putting yourself at their mercy, but the first words out of your mouth should be to tell them that you are brand new at archery and need some very basic help. That would probably be a good time to mention what your upper limit is on your purchase. Check out a few catalogs just to see how the prices run. I have no idea what your financial situation is, but I would guess that you might be looking for a middle of the road price range where you have decent quality at a price that won't break the bank.

 

I am assuming that you have no acquaintances that are pretty good archers. If you do, you should pick their brain as much as possible before committing your first dollar.

 

I am going to assume that you are going to be interested in a compound rather than a recurve or longbow. If that is not the case, there is a whole different way of looking for and choosing equipment. So, that is your first decision.

 

Your second decision is to decide whether you will be using a mechanical release or not. This effects your draw length which is super important with a compound bow. If you have decided on a release, you will need to use the specific one that you intend to buy for determining your draw length. You will need the guy at the archery shop to first measure your draw length. I would guess that given the mindset today, I would recommend that you do go with a release. The decision is yours and I'm sure there are plenty of people who will argue against starting with a release. But the decision is really yours to make. A release is an aid to a more consistent arrow launch, and I would guess that the greater percentage of archers find it a useful accessory. I am recommending that draw length be established by actually having you draw with a marked measuring arrow rather than some of the less reliable "rule of thumb" kinds of ways to determine draw length. And by the way, along with the release, most guys are shooting a "D-loop" on the string. That also effects draw length. So that should be installed also when measuring draw length. While he is measuring your draw length, it is a good time to have him suggest an anchor point and have him watch how you draw to look for signs of over-bowing (too much draw weight to handle). Your ability to draw more poundage after you have shot for a short while while will change upward, so whatever bow poundage you and he agree on should be the lower range of the bows adjustability. Make sure he is commenting on your form, and the way that you are handling the bow. That first visit should feel as much like an archery lesson as it feels like equipment purchase. Make sure he understands that this is what you are looking for. That completes the initial info that you and he need for bow selection.

 

Now comes the arrow selection. From the draw weight decision and the draw length measurements, he can recommend some arrows. The material of the arrows is another opinion based decision, and you will get as many different answers as those who offer their opinions. Check out the prices of the different materials and find one that fits your budget. At this point, I would guess that he will start running through a few bows that he has in stock so that you can shoot a few of them, and get the feel of what feels natural to you, and smooth to draw, and relatively quiet on release. Once you have decided on a bow, have him finish off the custom set up. You may consider using a peep sight and a bow sight. try not be too traumatized with sticker shock with these accessories. These guys really know how to charge for each little trinket.

 

Oh, I didn't mention looking up a good book on archery just to familiarize yourself with terminology when talking to the shop owner.

 

I know that I must have forgotten a bunch of things, but this ought to be a good start for others to add on to or offer their own viewpoints. I should also add that it would be a good idea to shoot for about a half hour to an hour before taking your rig home just to check for infant mortality types of problems.

 

One other thought..... I know there are those that will say to let the guy at the bow shop spend all this time getting you all figured out and measured up, and then take that info to the nearest computer and order at the place with the best price. Out of courtesy to the bow-pro, that probably would not be the most ethical thing to do. I would not do that. On your next purchase (and I'm absolutely sure that some day there will be another one....lol), feel free to go anywhere that you want, but if this guy has spent a decent amount of time on you and performed a proper level of service, it is the right thing to do to make your purchase there. Also if things go wrong, you will have a throat to grab if need be hopefully just a short drive from home.

 

Ok guys ...... What did I leave out? What do you disagree with? What would you all recommend differently? I think this was a good starting point.

 

 

[WNYBuckHunter]

Go shoot as many as you can, figure out what feels right and then buy one used on Archerytalk. Dont mess with low end bows, buy a used high end model, and never look back. Ive tried entry level bows and mid level bows that i thought would be good enough. In the end I did exactly what i am advising you to do here, at the prompting of a few guys that had alot more experience than I. They didnt suggest brands, they didnt suggest models, they said go shoot the higher end models till you find one that feels good. Best advice I have ever taken when it comes to archery equipment. I spent alot of time, money and frustration trying to make something right rather than finding the perfect fit.

Btw, a dloop does not affect draw length, only where your anchor point is. I agree with going to legit pro shops and not big box stores. They are better 9 times out of 10, and will be able to advise you on what draw length is right for you. Also, dont get caught up in the high poundage, speed freak stuff. You dont need 300fps to kill a deer, even out to 30 or 40 yards, which you shouldnt even be thinking about yet lol.

[Doc]

Btw, a dloop does not affect draw length, only where your anchor point is.

Yes it does. Anything that adds distance from your anchor touch point to the actual string subtracts from the bow's actual draw length. If you don't believe it, imagine a "D-loop" that was 16" long. Not a likely situation but that scenario does illustrate how the actual distance that the bow would be drawn would change assuming that you are not chasing your anchor around to accommodate the loop (which you should not be doing).

[WNYBuckHunter]

No it doesnt.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/compound_bow_draw_length_discussion.html

[ncountry]

No it doesnt.

 

If you maintain the same anchor point and add a 1/2"  loop you need to have a bow with a 1/2" shorter draw....

[WNYBuckHunter]

If you maintain the same anchor point and add a 1/2" loop you need to have a bow with a 1/2" shorter draw....

Correct, it changes the anchor point.

[cdmckane]

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to a couple shops this week. Klein's in Dryden and Greg's in Moravia.

I never intended to go to a big box store if I didn't have to. I bought a rifle from Walmart years ago and, while it killed a lot of deer, the salesman couldn't tell me if .30-06 and .25-06 were from the same parent cartridge. Good thing I was in the Army Marksmanship Unit and had just noticed the sale in the flyer. I knew what I wanted and they had the best price.

I have no idea what I want in a bow, but Klein's has an incredible reputation in this area, so that's where I'm going to start.

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[Doc]

Correct, it changes the anchor point.

Well, I don't know about you, but my anchor point has not changed for quite a few decades. It is not dependent on what is happening out in front. It is a point on my face that I have determined will result in a convenient spot that I know I can repeat consistently. I do not have my anchor point chasing every little change in equipment. So if I maintain a constant anchor point and add something onto my string, the length of the draw cycle of the bow has changed. pretty simple concept. And when measuring draw length, it is something that should be on the bow already.

[WNYBuckHunter]

[thphm]

I have no idea what I want in a bow, but Klein's has an incredible reputation in this area, so that's where I'm going to start.

Smart move,You will get the right draw weight and draw length for You.And get a chance to try different brands and models and see what You are comfortable with.

And since this was the hot topic on here,Ask to try to shoot with a release and a D loop. ( for future use ) Shooting with the fingers will take time to get use to ( toughen up your fingers ) Gloves and other methods will help.

I have shot with my fingers since I was 12 years old with my recurves and long bows. ( for future use ) It wasn't untill I had a few accidents and hurt my fingers bad enough that I now shoot with a release and D loop ,Just added a Loop to all of my long, recurve and compound bows,Still shoot the Same arrows as before.

Looking for deals on the internet and other places Is fine If you already know what your dray weight and draw length is.Starting out as you are, Doing what you intend is the best for you.

And when you get the bow set up for you,Enjoy it when you get it and Practice.Practice,

Turkey season is just around the corner.

[moog5050]

Well, I don't know about you, but my anchor point has not changed for quite a few decades. It is not dependent on what is happening out in front. It is a point on my face that I have determined will result in a convenient spot that I know I can repeat consistently. I do not have my anchor point chasing every little change in equipment. So if I maintain a constant anchor point and add something onto my string, the length of the draw cycle of the bow has changed. pretty simple concept. And when measuring draw length, it is something that should be on the bow already.

 

 

NO bow shop starts with determining the length of the d-loop and then measuring draw length.  WNY is right.  d-loop does not determine DL.  It can be tweaked to fit your favored anchor point and allow for better stablity or settling of the pin.  I undertsand your point, but to tell a new archer that d-loop is part of the equation for measuring DL is simply wrong Doc.  I have a 28 1/8" DL.  If I decided to use a 3" long d-loop (no one would), I would not become a 25 1/8" DL.

 

I too would do as much testing as you can and then buy a used high end bow off AT.  Good luck.  You have plenty of time to be hunting proficient with a bow before next season. 

[518BowSlayer]

Just make sure you get a lot closer to the deer than you did while rifle hunting! Makes killing them a lot easier!

[SteveB]

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to a couple shops this week. Klein's in Dryden and Greg's in Moravia.

I have no idea what I want in a bow, but Klein's has an incredible reputation in this area, so that's where I'm going to start.

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Greg's rep is every bit as good.

I can meet you there some night or next Sunday for an intro if you want.

[cdmckane]

Just make sure you get a lot closer to the deer than you did while rifle hunting! Makes killing them a lot easier!

You mean I won't be able to take a deer with a bow at 160 yds?

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[cdmckane]

Greg's rep is every bit as good.

I can meet you there some night or next Sunday for an intro if you want.

I'll definitely take you up on that. My father in law and brother in law both go to Kleins. I'll start there but I'll check out Greg's too. Thanks

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[Sogaard]

Go shoot as many as you can, figure out what feels right and then buy one used on Archerytalk. Dont mess with low end bows, buy a used high end model, and never look back. Ive tried entry level bows and mid level bows that i thought would be good enough. In the end I did exactly what i am advising you to do here, at the prompting of a few guys that had alot more experience than I. They didnt suggest brands, they didnt suggest models, they said go shoot the higher end models till you find one that feels good. Best advice I have ever taken when it comes to archery equipment. I spent alot of time, money and frustration trying to make something right rather than finding the perfect fit.

 

Great advise there.  

 

And to add a personal recommendation, try out some Elite bows before deciding on what to buy, especially since you can get some of the 2013 bows at a good price now.

[Hardcore]

Congrats on taking the plunge... a lot of fun and will definitely extend your season....mo hunting

 

 

D Loops.....
When being fitted for a bow...Bow shop should have you draw an arrow with measurements on it, when you hit your anchor point...there's your draw length....
I have a 29" draw and shoot with no loop...if I added a d loop this would add approx 1/2" to my draw length which would cause my anchor point to change....not a good thing...I would need to reduce the DL on the bow so I return to my anchor point....anchor point should always be the same no matter what kind of bow or set up you have

Edited February 24, 2014 by Hardcore